The ring in the lower control arm is sloped to accept the end of the spring, since the end of the spring isnt prefectly flat, so if you dont put the spring in between the holes its higher up on the slope, so its like you put a taller spring in.

He said he can see the new spindles on there.

 

oops didnt c that srry....yep spin those springs n u should b fine

 

have you looked if the springs were seated right yet?

 

Man why does all this bad shit keep happening to me, nothing ever goes right, i know what holes ur talking about on the LCA but i really cant see them with the spring in because of the insulator on the end of the coil.. I dont want to attempt this by myself because i dont want to mess anything up, ive never done ball joints or control arms and crap

 

You Do not have have to remove the control arms nor the ball joints man! It's really not that hard, let the wheel hang there, remove wheel, remove pins from ball joint nuts upper and lower, remove nuts, and they should seperately from te spindle quite easily(rubber mallet may be handy) , ou prob wouldn't even have to take apart the brakes n shit, just use a coat hanger the hang the entire spindle:hub/rotor assembly up so the brake line isn't stressed. At that poit you can turn the spring in place and reassemble. Ou done need any special tools. Just make sure whatever you remove, you put back. I bet you wouldn't even need to unbolt the tie rod. Go out there and do it, you will e much less stressed and have an acomplished feeling about doin it yourself. Gotta learn sooner r later, why not sooner

 

check the springs. I bet thats it. ITs easy to do - especially if you arent real familiar with the coil clocking thats required on these trucks

 

look from the bottom of the control arm. you will be able to see where they are. and then look at the very end of the coil and see if they are in the same general area. im pretty sure the holes are on the back side of the coil seat.

 

The holes look like the image and theyre on the inner side of the arm. Closer to the chassis than the tire.

If the insulator is keeping you from seeing the coil end from the botom stick your hand into the coil and feel where it ends. Compare that with what you see from the bottom.

You may also just be able to unbolt the UCA to adjust the coil. No screwing with balljoints or having to compress a coil either. ITs pretty easy either way

 

I just got off the phone with the dude and he didnt even know that there had to be a specific way it had to sit, imo sounds like an honest mistake, but i would seriously pay one of you guys to do this sh1t for me... I can do most stuff but im really not a fan of any suspension parts except for shocks.. I dont know what im doing lol

 

Theres only one way to learn.

 

well if he didnt know there was a right way of placing them. then why doesnt the guy that did it redo them for you?

 

This^^

Theres only one way to learn.

Aaaaaaaaaanndd this

 

Post some pictures up of your setup.. take wheel off and take pics of these drop spindles.. and the base of the lower control arm where the spring rides so we can see whehter it is right or not.

 

Be careful when separating the control arms from the spindle. Leave the nut on the spindle loosley and give it a whack...then remove the nut. That way the spring won't come flying out of there.

 

Okay guys i just got back from oreillys, lol Everyone there knows me by name now, anyway this cool guy that works there came out and had me turn my wheels and was checkin everything out, he said my passenger side doesnt even have an isolator on the bottom and he told me about how the springs had to be clocked whoch i now understand from looking under the LCA and seeing how 1 part has a lip for the coily side and a flat part for the lower flat part of the spring, he said that my drivers side spring looks like its not sitting flush in the seat. Believe it or not, i put air in my back tire like some of you guys suggested and tHat actually helped a little bit! Lmfao well anyway, i just got done installing my rear shocks, so now all 4 are new, "yippy" =\

 

Surprised someone at orilleys knew wtf they were talkin bout... Lol

Time to tear into it!

 

Pic since tire had air added lol, helped a lil, but i just took more pics of the spindles n springs, give me a sec

 

waiting.. lol

 

The ends of the coils should fall between these two drain holes on the inboard side of the lower control arms....

Also, my isolators were falling apart so I pulled them all out and threw them in the garbage. I haven't had any problems from them not being in there and not having them in there dropped the front a tad more. lol

 

Will there be anything stickng out those holes? Like a pin shaped thing?

 

Nope they're just inspection/alignment/drain holes.

 

Is it just me.. or does those spindles still look tall on the top side??

 

Yeah heres a pretty exact estimate of what the correct stance my truck SHOULD have. This is a 2/3 on top of ZQ8 suspension

 

Yeah heres a pretty exact estimate of what the correct stance my truck SHOULD have. This is a 2/3 on top of ZQ8 suspension

Really? So was my old one, but it looked alot lower. It had 2" Spindles, and a pair of JTR blocks on top of the Zq8 susp.

 

this is exactly why people should take before and after measurements of there fender heights

 

Amen

 

If you jack the truck up and get all the weight off the front so the wheels fall and hang (may have to undo the top shock mount), you may be able to just twist the coil without having to pop the lower ball joint

 

Actually i did, if i recall the back was at 17 1/2 and the front 19 1/2 EDIT, yup just checked every wheel has a fkin different measurement but im pretty sure its because the chevy lean is throwing everything off, i measure from top of fenderlip to center cap.
Front drivers=18in
Front pass= 19
Rear driver=17 1/2
Rear pass=18

 

yep chevy lean