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Redd

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Ok since theres been a few threads about people having problems with the 7in aftermarket boosters and how they have to push the pedal about half way down before anything happens, This is what needs to be done. I have a 7in dual diaphram booster from waylaid.

Id like to thank V8blaze for posting the following information in another thread. The site has some good info on it.. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/7-brake-booster-and-vacuum-381329/


Now The way I did mine probly isnt the way most brake GODs would recomend, however its the way I did mine.

They way I adjusted mine was I adjusted the pin out and kept sliding the master cylinder on till I could feel the pin making contact. Basicly untill i had to push on the master cylinder to make it go all the way on the booster. Then backed it off some until It wasnt making contact and then backed it off a tad more. After I did all this, I test drove it up and down my street to see if the pedal was good(and it was). Then I took it on the service road behind my house thats always empty and did a few different mph brake tests to make sure the brakes werent locking up to easily, etc. If you arent happy re-adust and test again. Now my pedal feels and acts pretty much like stock!

For the tools,
8mm wrench ( I cut down a cheap chinese wrench i had)
Needlenose pliers, or something along those lines.
1/4 socket.

Now Slide the 8mm socket on to the pin like in the pic below, and hold on to it with your pliers. Then take the socket and turn the pin to the left to adjust out, right to adjust in(atleast mine was like that). Im sure theres wrenches you can use so you dont have to use the pliers to hold the wrench, but I didnt feel like buying it.

Please excuse the bad paint.. Got break fluid on it and its coming off.

Image


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Glad you found something that worked. I did alot of research on these things. And knew i had found info on adjusting it somewhere. Alot of local guys have some big 50s and 60s fullsize cars running the same boosters and they all said they work like stockers. So i knew something had to be up with people having problems on little s10s
 
i did this adjustment on my truck a few months ago and it was a rediculous increase in stopping power. i got my 7" booster with the pin screwed all the way in and my truck wasn't stopping at all. i screwed it out till it met the back of the MC, and it stops really good now. maybe not as good as stock, but definitely close.

can an MOD put this in the "how-to" section for safe keeping???
 
youre awesome man! imma try this tomorrow and i will let everyone know how it works, but i can definitely see this working...thanks a bunch redd
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
No you still have to cut the arm off the stock booster to make it the same length as it was factorty. Then you need to adjust the pin in the pic. If not you will have to basicly push the pedal half way down or so before your brakes engage. Also the factory arm is what engages the brake light switch.
 
God so thats what been up with mine. I did all new brake lines, ss brake lines, rear disks and ebc pads and it stops worse than stock. I didnt touch the adjustment I bet thats what it is. I was so pissed after all that work and it sucks to stop.
 
good info, im in the middle of doing all the work on mine but i got a 8in booster from waylayed. ill keep this in mind. regardless of who has the best truck, lowest, tuckin the biggest wheels, etc... yada yada yada... if it goes on the street and not a trailer, safety is always first in my mind
 
i forgot about this thread....mine stops just fine with the 8in booster adjusted and the abs deleted
 
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