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How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80

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348K views 711 replies 145 participants last post by  Scottie0308  
#1 ·
Here is a little write up/explanation on how to swap your stock CS130D alternator for an AD244 alternator off of most of the full size trucks.

For those of you that NEED a bigger alternator, weather it be because of off-road accessories (winches, lights, etc) or because you need the extra amperage due to a bigger sound system, you would probably upgrade to an aftermarket alternator to meet your needs. Well, unless you are paying $300+ for a built alternator with a good stator and regulator put in, you will loose voltage at idle when you purchase the upgraded one. This is where most people have their concern, especially you off-road guys.

For example, when you put a 160 amp stator in a stock CS130D (4.3L) case, you will get the 160 amps, but only at about 1000 engine RPM's. Our 4.3L's idle at ~550-600, so the output is a lot less, voltage and amperage. I've found that my "built" CS130D only put out 45 amps and 12.8v at idle, when I needed a LOT more than that to keep my lights from dimming at idle.

So, our goal here is to get output (amperage and voltage) at idle as well as our required output at speeds greater than idle. With the AD244, you can have the best of both worlds.

*You can pick up a used AD244 alternator from your local junkyard for ~$40-$50, depending on mileage/condition*

The AD244 alternator came off of several full size pickups, from different years. There were two versions of the alternator made, a 130A version and a 145A version. You can call your local junkyard/salvage yard and ask them what it came off of, how many miles are on it, and what version it is (130A or 145A). Here is a link to everything you need to know (including what vehicles it came off of) about the AD244 (thank juddspaintballs for the link)

http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/partimage.cfm?wai_num=1-2419-21DR

*The AD244 alternator will bolt right up to the stock alternator bracket on the 4.3L with NO modifications to the bracket. The only thing that is different is that you won't be using the 3rd bolt that is on the backside of the alternator. The CS130D has this, but the AD244 doesn't. You won't have any troubles with the bolt not being there.*

*The AD244 uses the same wire harness as the CS130D. It is a plug-and-play application.*

Now, I know what you guys are thinking..... "well dude, I need wayy more than 145 amps." That's what I was thinking too when I was doing this mod. I've got a decent sized sound system in the truck and some aftermarket fog lights on my safari bar, so I needed the extra amperage.

Bench tests have proven this alternator to put out 200+ amps at idle when cold. Yes, that's right, at idle.

When the alternator is warm it will easily put out 100 amps at idle,which is way better than the CS130D which is only capable of producing ~40 amps at idle.

It is a slightly underrated alternator (you audio guru's out there know what the term 'underrated' means and how it compares to the quality of a product). I can crank my system to the max and have no voltage issues with it when I'm at idle. I'll maintain a 14v and my lights don't dim.

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Now that you have the alternator, you'll be needing a longer belt. I can't say how long of a belt you'll be needing, but the stock one won't work. If you DO get the stock belt to work (some have) I STRONGLY don't recommend it. It will put a bigger strain on the bearings in the alternator and can cause premature failure. It's worth the extra $35 for a new belt.

*You will need a belt that is 1"-1.5" longer than stock. For some reason, the lengths of belts changed from year to year (even 98+) so you'll have to do a little bit of math and figure it out on your own :p *

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I also highly recommend doing the "Big 3" upgrade when doing the AD244 mod. Stock wiring CAN take the 200+amps that the AD244 puts out, but if you are having problems with it, then it is probably the wiring.

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Here are some pictures of my AD244 in action:

Output at idle with just my headlights on:

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Output at IDLE with my system cranked to the max:

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Output at IDLE with all accessories on (all 4 headlights [quad beam mod], a/c on MAX with fans at #3, fog lights, and my system cranked to the max:


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13.96 can be lower than most would like to be.... but a stock CS130D would be gasping for air if I was treating it like that.

So, if I had things my way, every s10/blazer would have an AD244 as their alternator, even if they have a stock electrical system.
 
#365 ·
Just an FYI for everyone...There was a link to Nations Starter and Alts...DO NOT BUY FROM THEM...They are a local company and their workmanship is horrible. Many of our customers went to them for custom alts, and not a one lasted over a few months. Then they made up BS reasons not to warranty them.
 
#368 ·
From what I have been told and been able to research....


Regarding to the DR44 and DR44G alternators more commonly found on the newer GM trucks, besides having the two pin regulator connector.. another major difference with this unit compared the the AD244 alternators is that on the DR44 and DR44G the bridge rectifier is embedded and fused into the rear casing to form one single part where as on the AD244 the bridge rectifier is completely removable and upgradeable.

Standard on the DR44 and DR44G are 50 amp diodes in the bridge rectifier and double wound stators which is the same as in the AD244, however the on the AD244, the bridge rectifier can be easily replaced with one that utilizes much larger rated diodes (up to 70 amps). This makes the AD244 much more versatile and durable from a rebuilding standpoint.

With slight modifications, the 2 pin and 4 pin voltage regulators on these two units can be interchanged with one another. This is more so a mounting modification as there are some slight clearance issues.

In my opinion, it would make more sense to just get the older AD244 units versus the newer DR44 and DR44G units.

However, if you already have a DR44 or DR44G unit and want to be able to use it in your older vehicles that uses the 4 pin connector, it would be much easier to just replace the 4 pin male connector with a newer 2 pin male connecter and wire it appropriately (local scrap yard has plenty of connectors). Check with your local alternator guru for proper wiring. I believe there are some connector adapters/converters available that would be able to accomplish the same as well. This might be easier and cheaper than taking the alternator apart to replace the voltage regulator.

I have no personal experience with this but this is the information that I have been able to find.
 
#370 ·
just cause i am kinda slow this is what i need right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...tem518e29ac07QQitemZ350277446663QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories batter warning light comes on with head lights and compressors on and very very low like sitting on the red even with the compressors off. when i gas it got up to just about 13ish little less than 14. just seen this the few weeks once we set our clocks back in cali and gets dark now on my drive home. And yes this will be going on a 95 2.2l from the looks of it i just have to go buy a few belts and test fit till i find the one that fits.
 
#371 ·
Yeah it looks like that's the one. That's the 130A version, you could go with the 145A version if you wanted? It's up to you.

From my understanding, it takes some custom mounting work to get the AD244 to work on the 2.2L. I've never done it, that's just what colbye said a couple posts above this.
 
#377 ·
I've looked through this and have not noticed but has anyone had a problem with one of the bolt holes not lining up with the hole on the alternator? On my '91 4.3 the right bolt hole lines up fine but the left one is 1-3mm off center with the hole in the alternator. I know i could fix it fairly easy but is there another option or what? I bought mine new from the store but it's the same. I bought one for a 2004 buick ranier since that was one of the vehicles it came stock on.