well i got bored with the ultralinears and my soundstorm took a shit on the left channel, so, i figure ill throw up what im thinking about building next, this is only going ot be speakers for now, not sure on the amps i want to push it all.
i want to go predominantly Hi-Vi research for the components, im still iffy in the tweeters though
well i got bored with the ultralinears and my soundstorm took a shit on the left channel, so, i figure ill throw up what im thinking about building next, this is only going ot be speakers for now, not sure on the amps i want to push it all.
i want to go predominantly Hi-Vi research for the components, im still iffy in the tweeters though
I'm interested in seeing what you do to get the 8s to fit in the doors. I may be doing a similar setup. I'm glad your getting something better than that soundstorm junk.
yeah, ryan (bladehines) does too, i was planning building MDF brackets that hold both the 8 and the 4 inch, then cross the 8s over to the 4s about 800-1000 hz, then run the 4s up until about 5-8k hz and let the tweets take car of the rest
I'll be going passive too, I don't got time/patience to go active.
I got the setup I was thinking about doing for my doors saved on my laptop.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do though, I have manual 94 door panels, are they the same as the 96s?
yeah they are, id like to get the two piece panels and get power windows, as well, ind ive also been thinking about amps that id want to use as well and how i want to do the 2 12s, as much as id hate to do a blow through, it would make a clean mounting area for amps above (and below) the cutout, but i just really dont want to do a blow through
also as for amps im considering, the PPI art/a/ax series is way up on my list i really like the looks of them and the sound awesome to boot, but right now the biggest thing i need is the magic green stuff that makes the world go round to back all of these hopes and dreams up
I don't know how you'd fit them.
I know I'd want it so the full cone area of the subwoofer is firing into the cab.. but thats me, seems like a waste if you do a 15 or 18 and have it half covered up.
well, im actually considering some clarion amps now mainly for the price, they are still great amps (considering they are the company that owned McIntosh from 1990-2003 when they started the mobile audio) they arent as clean as McIntosh but who can really compete with .005% THD and a s/n ratio of 110db the quality is still pretty high, and they are quite often overlooked.
and best of all they look good while doing it, but id stil take the wattage writing off the face plate
also im going to do everything possible to avoid doing a blow through, anyone can have a big system in a standard cab with one, but building a big system and staying within the cab area is a pretty big accomplishment
you know im thinking about doings 10s instead of 12s now, mainly because these 10s are AWESOME and relatively easy on the wallet, also heard that ported with a 1.8 cu ft box, its a completely flat response until 24 hz, and a 3 db drop at 20, that of course is in a home setup though, and it only require .6 cubic feet sealed
u can fit anything in a standard cab almost. to give u guys reference, i had a 15'' sub in a 2.5 cu ft sealed box. i am 6'2 210lbs. and it was 5 speed. lost a few clicks but was comfortable for me.
building a new enclosure as of well, yesterday morning now, ive got the top, bottom, and sides/divider done, each chamber will end up being about 1 cubic foot, just putting my ultra linears back in for now, but im planning to swap them out for the dayton HO 12s, which is more what i am designing the encloseure for, includeing the cutout diameters
as for midbass/midrange im thinking about going with the dayton 8 ohm referance line, i know they have a nice 8 inch midbass, and the 4 inchers look good as well, as for tweeters, im thinming about just going soft dome with these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-040
building a new enclosure as of well, yesterday morning now, ive got the top, bottom, and sides/divider done, each chamber will end up being about 1 cubic foot, just putting my ultra linears back in for now, but im planning to swap them out for the dayton HO 12s, which is more what i am designing the encloseure for, includeing the cutout diameters
as for midbass/midrange im thinking about going with the dayton 8 ohm referance line, i know they have a nice 8 inch midbass, and the 4 inchers look good as well, as for tweeters, im thinming about just going soft dome with these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-040
oh, i forgot the most important part PIXXORZ!!!11!!!!numberone!
all of my joints are dadoed/rabited and glued some of the pieces split a little, but the glue, caulk and the high likely hood of me dado/rabit jointing the baffles to it really shouldn't matter, but i did learn the lesson to ALWAYS predrill my holes
Hey do yourself a favor and buy a large flash drive off newegg for that kenwood head unit you're getting and say goodbye to cds...I'm interested in seeing how much room those daytons ho's take up and how you are gonna get the 8's in the doors. I've heard a lot of good things about those subs..
planning on doing a passive crossover, not sure on slopes and cut offs yet as i am still trying to figure out what speakers i want, and comiming up with the money.
If you are planning on using Dayton ref's in a 3 way, you should check out the DIY section for the towers that were built using the same equipment. This could give you a head start on the crossover. Although I believe that set used the 2" dome midrange...
after looking at the response charts im thinking about just saying screw it and going with just the 8 inch and the tweeter, it will simplify the whole project, and the responses overlap plenty well enough
tweeter
yeah, i had the 12s in mine, but i got tired of having no room with the box i had and i knew that i did a piss poor job building it, so ive got my 10w3 in the truck for right now, and im working on this to put back in later
ideally i want to get 3 A600.2 ppi amps to run it all, 2 for the subs and one for components then put them all over the main part of the box and glass around them, but those things are 180-250 each
i just gave it some thought, and the cross over idea wont really work the way i had it planned, since i need attenuate the signal so the tweeter only gets 30 watts, i was planning on using load resistors to get me from 80 to 30 watts, i guess i could do it before the signal is crossed over to it, but im not sure how or if that would affect the cross over circuit, so im thinking put the attenuator resistors after the inductors/capacitor(s) since i need a total load of 21.3¯Ω so the resistors should be 15.3¯Ω with the 6Ω tweeter correct?or should i use the 21.3¯Ω as a nominal impedance and go with 2/3-3/4 of that as with the DC resistance of the speakers so that it will act as 21.3¯Ω with the AC current, basically, im not really sure if the RE of the resistors would rise under an AC load
i calculated the crossover for it with the total 21.3¯Ω nominal impedance and cam up with this for my new inductor/capacitor values when crossed over at 1500 Hz C1 = 2.48750 µF L1 = 4.52693 mH
does anyone know how big of a difference leaving off the .02693 would make on the inductor since i can get a 4.5mH inductor with +/- 2% tolerance
since i cant edit the last one, i just answered my own question, its only 10Hz lower on the crossover, so i dont think i will be too upset about the .02xxx mH
Let me get on point here, are you planning to do a two way using the Dayton Ref 8" midbass? Do some research if this is what you are planning to do, as there are some nasty resonances up high that will have to be tamed due to the fact that they are aluminum cone speakers. Nature of the beast. The only 8" speaker that I have ever read a decent review about that was used in a two way system was the Usher 8955A. Not that I have read a bunch of them, but might as well start with something that is in the ballpark.
Where are you planning on mounting these 8's btw?
i was planning on extending the factory mounts outward and then glass the door panel, and then possibly make some aluminum rings to bridge the small gap between the speaker and the door panel, but thanks for the info about the resonance with the 8s i may still go 3 way then
Don't fret just yet on the 8" two way; the Ref just might not be the tool you need to accomplish the job. BTW, those Usher mids can be bought new on ebay for less than 100 bones if you catch the right auction and noone/only a few bids.
As far as the mount for the speaker, I would highly suggest building a pod to fit the speaker on, cut out whatever is necessary of the door panel to make the pod fit, then glass the transition between the door panel and pod. This way, the speaker is solidly mounted to the door itself, and the door panel can be removed without disturbing the pod.
Don't fret just yet on the 8" two way; the Ref just might not be the tool you need to accomplish the job. BTW, those Usher mids can be bought new on ebay for less than 100 bones if you catch the right auction and noone/only a few bids.
As far as the mount for the speaker, I would highly suggest building a pod to fit the speaker on, cut out whatever is necessary of the door panel to make the pod fit, then glass the transition between the door panel and pod. This way, the speaker is solidly mounted to the door itself, and the door panel can be removed without disturbing the pod.
this is what i was trying to say on mine, the aluminum ring i was talking about is just basically like the outside rim of a speaker grill, and i may consider the three way setup again, i kind of had some cool ideas for it, but the 2 way setup looked easier and still functional