A couple more, show some coolant leaking, some of my rust, as well as my headliner
Speaking of which anyone know what I should do, I wanted to get headliner reupolstered, but the thing cracked right in the middle
Oh and the damn seatbelt box bolt, uses a torx 47, stripped that ****er out, the otherside damn near gave me an anuerism(sp?) fn high powered impact gun couldn't move them, had to use massive breaker bar, now the threads are half way shiny with the flakes, and the other half rusted near the bottom.
Guess I'll be drilling it out, Have no idea how exactly I'm going to be able to get it out, being as tight as it is. Then I have to find new bolts...

Picture doesn't do the seat stud crack any good, looks worse, although it's not like it's flimsy but you can move the two pieces independently with enough pressure

 

Your floorboards look great to me. Por15 definitely wouldn't hurt it and you can use dynamat as sound deadener or you can just get some cheap stuff at your local Menards.

 

Yea, there really not terrible, but I gotta get them little spots, I've never used por 15 though so I'm gonna have to research it some.

 

hmm... dynomat is some expensive stuff, and IDK if I want to ruin my floors with tar, it'd be impossible to get rid of all that stuff

 

IDK if I want to ruin my floors with tar, it'd be impossible to get rid of all that stuff

Why would you want to get it off?

I used the FatMat from Ebay. Worked really well, and a fraction of the price

 

Newspaper folded up into triangles and wrapped in duct tape works pretty good for cheap insulation. Who cares what it looks like your interior is going to cover it.

 

At least go look at Menards before you start rolling up sundays paper :haha:

 

hey i did say cheap.:rotf:

 

I'm guessing menards is an auto store, don't have them here but I'll go look around.
I'd want to get it somewhat removable because for one it destroys my nice looking floors, there's also the chance of it running and ruining upholstery and lastly because if my floorboards were to rust outside in I'd be in a pickle, trying to first figure out how bad it is, then if I tried to grind it clean to weld I'd face screwing up several stones as well as surrounding shit oozing into work area contaminating my weld

 

Again though I'm not totally against it I'd definitely like to do my doors

 

Gotcha... I think we are think of 2 different things.

Mine is a sticky backed rubberized coating. With an aluminum face. Comes in a sheet.

 

not the best pic..

 

THAT is what I was looking for, will definately be ordering some of that.

Ordered some seat belt bolts seeing as my old ones had stripped heads and were rusty. Bottom ones costed $6 a piece, just for SAG I checked the price on the top bolts.... $22 a piece, worth it's weight in gold to GM apparently.

Also broke a strange clip in the HVAC system, where the actuator attaches to the door for the feet vents, biggest pos.... Someone needs to be smacked, real hard, in the head, with a sledgehammer. Of course that plastic clip, no bigger than a penny costs over $9, I thought prices for H2 parts were redic, this is past BS.

 

H2 parts are always expensive cause they break ALOT.

 

Not quite true, other than an idler and pitman from offroading the beast she has never had anything other than a couple clips.

Not to mention the fact that the pitman and idler are the exact same ones found in every 3/4 and 1 ton chevy/GMC truck.

How much personal experience do you have again?

And besides logic would have it that if something broke a lot that parts from aftermarket vendors would increase and the prices would decrease.

 

Enough to know that they are based off of Gm's 2500 series and 1500 series frames and uses the 2500 series motor. Also the brakes lines are prone to failure seeing as how i blew the brake lines out of one at school.

But i wasnt putting the h2 down it can be a great SUV but i would rather have an h1.

 

Speaking of brakes, I did have to have warranty fix the master cyclinder as it was leaking (was a dodge dealer that did that, and funny enough they said it was bigger than the ones they had in their cummins diesel trucks) never had any issue with brake lines, but that's pretty much it, I want a M998 Humvee, but they sell within minutes of ever getting posted up for sale. And I hear geared hubs are a PIA.


On to the blazer, I did get other seatbelt bolt out, hammered a t50 onto it, and slowly worked it. Have to take truck to welding class sometime and get the crack going around my driver seat stud tig welded. going to paint the spots I've grinded rust bubbles in, fix my A/C vent, put new heater core in.
Been cleaning out the HVAC tubes, as they are filled with degraded stick on foam, as well as a little soaked in antifreeze in regards to the areas around the heater core.

Some areas make no sense to have the foam but I'm going to try and order some just b\c.

Carpet was pressure washed, cargo area is rather clean, the occupated areas were a different story, the rear carpet had major dust in the corners, the driver side seemed like it had absorbed many quarts of coke (drink) as you would be spraying then all of a sudden it would be a dark brown color. Pretty bad fading, as well as a big square of carpeting on the passenger side randomly decided to part with the rest of the carpet when it was being removed, so that's going to look dumb.

I'm just going to do a layer of fatmat around the truck, I'll replace carpet when she gets some fresh paint, which will be a while because I want a true dual stage paint.
Same for the headliner, unless when I put it back in it looks stupid from the crack, in which case I'll replace it then.

Dash has a crack in it but I don't see what I can do about that, honestly I have no willingness to go to a junkyard and pull a dash that's not cracked knowing full well it could crack the second I finish getting it out or even a week after it's installed on my truck.
The covers from LMC are a cheap (hear fixing problem) way to deal with it.
GM only has red interior parts left for the most part.