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Build your own intake! Install guide!

3.5K views 42 replies 23 participants last post by  What?  
#1 · (Edited)
Another how-to from me.

Ok for those of you with any brains, no green (money not weed, potheads), and a drive for more power out of your 2.2, im sure you have tried making an intake.

THIS DOES VOID YOUR WARANTY - BE SMART ABOUT IT -
(plus if you break something like me, put your stock air intake back on and play dumb, saved me about $500)

here is an easy way to make your own.

It gained me 1 second in the 1/8th mile

cost me about 50-100 bucks depending on what parts you already have at your disposal.
(not including filter, these can vary from 5-80 dollars depending on company and quality) you can get them off ebay for 5, you can buy a quality k&n at advanced auto for 40 bucks. ask for a universal fit K&N cone filter and find the dementions you would like.

i was told it felt like it had more gain than a K&N cold air.



Materials:

1. at least 3' of 3" Pre insulated PVC (i think its called DVC? at Home Depot, Its black)
2. 2-90 degree joints
3. 1- 3" aluminum universal HINGED bend dryer duct. These have proven difficult to find. They have hinges in them so you can bend them in any direction. DO NOT USE THE ALUMINUM TUBING THAT IS JUST ALUMINUM FOIL, IT CAN NOT STAND UP TO TEH AIRFLOW AND WILL SELF DISTRUCT CAUSING MAJOR DAMAGE (take my word, metal shavings are not good in an engine)
4. (recommended) tape on insulation
5. Rubber adapter to make fitting from throttle body to pvc (i used hose from my stock intake. They adapters at home depot, but it is extreamly difficult to fit correctly. just use your head and come up with an adapter. you can buy these adapters at some car stores, but its ALOT cheaper to make your own.
6. Hack saw
7. Contact cement
8. 3" cone air filter
9. Sand paper
10. Oil breather filter (available at any autozone or advanced auto)
11. 3" hose clamp (usually comes with filter)
12. Wire for securing tubing.

Steps!
Removing your stock intake:
1. Open up your airbox
2. Unclamp the clamp that connects the tubing to your airbox and remove top section of airbox.
3. Unbolt the bottom of your airbox and pull it off of supporting bracket behind headlights.
4. Remove your intake thermometer. (if i remember correctly it just pulls out?)
5. Lift up your A/C compresser hose. They are just held down by a pop in bolt, apply enough pressure it just pops out.
6. Unclamp stock tubing from airbox by throttle body.
7. Unclamp tubing from the moisture collection box, its to the left of your radiator and the the right of your battary. the clamp is directly below yoru intake tubing.
8. Remove tubing.
9. Remove moisture collection box. (this has proven difficult, you have to twist and use force, just dont pull off your radiator hoses by mistake!)
10. Unbolt your airbox by the Throttle body. (all these boxes are ment to reduce noise, but waste gas and power in the process)
11. Disconnect your oil breather hose, behind throttle body, remember where that is, this is where your oil breather connects.
12. Remove airbox and oil breather hose.
13. Store for safe keeping. as said before, Removing all this voids your waranty, but keeping it so it can be replaced is easy and often the dealership doesnt notice or doesnt confront you about it.

Making and installing yoru intake:

1. Shave about .5 an inch off of 1 side of a 90 degree elbow. it wont make the turn off of your throttle body with the stock size.
2. Cut about a .5 inch secion of 3" pvc and put it in the shaved end of the joint.
3. Put your adapter on your throttle body and attach the pvc elbow.
4. Cut about a 10" pvc section or longer (not sure of the exact length, but its better to have more than you need.)
5. attach the second 90 degree elbow and test fit so you clear your compressor pully. Make sure you give the metal plate room because when your ac is on it will turn too.
6. cut a 5" section of pvc pipe and fit it into the pvc elbow.
7. Attach your filter to the aluminum duct and bend it to conform to where you want your filter to sit. There is a circular hole behind your headlight, behind this is the optimum location.
8. Mess around with your pipe lengths until you have good clearance all the way around.
9. Disassemble your intake. Somehow mark where all the tubes went.
10. Sand the inside edges of the pvc. when you cut lengths there are still shavings that can come lose when your car is driving, you dont want these in yoru engine.
11. Use contact cement to reconnect all your sections securly.
12. Wrap the aluminum with insilation, it gives off heat easily and kindof screws the whole "cold" part of the cold air idea.
13. Remount your intake.
14. Use the wire to secure it in place, theres a place for a large bolt and screw on your compresser that is not being used. Wrap a wire around your intake and put it through there, tying it tightly. this should keep it from shaking off your throttle body on speed bumps ect. and keep it from touching your engine.
15. wrap a wire around the intake near the filter and wrap it to teh bracket ment for your stock intake near the fuse box. this keeps the filter from hitting your wheel well and disloging the filter and any other part of the intake. this should also help in preventing your intake from hitting the pullies.
16. Attach your oil breather to the opening on the valve cover next to your throttle body.
17. Find a secure place to mount your intake thermometer near your filter (i just taped it to a braket near the filter).
18. Test and listen for whistling. if you hear whistling your intake is not airtight, locate the whistle and use contact cement to seal it, if its your adapter, then you need to come up with another adapter.

Problems i ran into fine tuning this intake:
1. I didnt cement it together the first time, it disconnected on i-40, fell onto my pully, got stuck, melted and caught on fire. CEMENT IT TOGETHER
2. Used the cheap aluminum foil intake tubing. it imploded sending aluminum shrapinel into my throttle body, but was stopped by quick thinking, aka turning it off REALLY QUICK.
3. Bad adapter. My adapter wasnt very good, intake fell off and i drove about half a mile on unfiltered air, no biggie.
4. Didnt secure it with wire. same as above.
5. Not enough clearance, turned ac on and heard BAHBAHBAHBAHBAHBAHBAHBAH then smelt burning pvc. no biggie, stopped before i caused damage.

if you fallow all these instructions your intake should preduce a very noticabe gain in power, you also have more throaty sounding engine and it complements yoru exhaust nicely by making it sound deeper.

but remember use these at your own risk, i am not responsible for any damages incurred on your truck.

check out my cardomain, i have a picture of my intake. i painted it black, sanded it smooth, used black insilation and when i took it to a car show, 9 out of 10 people thought it was a professional intake.

GOOD LUCK AND BE SMART

Leave suggestions on making that adapter and comments on your own trials!
 
#27 ·
NickZigaitis said:
I'm not an expert but, I have a friend that works at Firestone who has the newest and greatest car monitoring computers. The kind you just plug in under the dash and you're now reading every cylinders heartbeat. I swear the computer they have is awesome and can tell you literally everything cause of all the sensors of the damn modern car. Too bad we can't go back to the simpler styles of the 70's and just drop a 350 in it and never ever have to worry about OBD1 or 2 and all that emissions crap.

Anyway, my friend is claiming that (and he's a little bit of a horsepower freak and a bit of a know-it-all) the computer can adjust on the spot the lean-ness and rich-ness of the motor. Obviously leaning the motor out will make some power but creat more heat unless you're running forced induct which then dumping more fuel in would be better. But, any one know if that true? Then, I would suppose that an air fuel ratio guage would be maybe necessary. I run one so don't worry kid, I like light shows too.

Just wait till Gutless has that forced induct turbo kit designed, then you'll need a boost guage and then you can have "needle shows" or "blow off valve puff shows".

On another note. While the kid may have done a dangerous thing and then spread the word of its greatness, lets not knock on him. He's learning and that the only way to do it. I'm not a huge fan of clubs where other members are helping you out constantly. Instead I am a huge fan of figuring it out yourself and the only way to do that is - take it apart yourself - and maybe use this forum from time to time to get some added advice. That how this whole world of minis got started. Lets take it easy on him and remember that you know at one time you were in his same shoes making your own shit cause you had no money, but you grew up, made some money and now can afford the proper shit.

Sorry, got on my soap box
the difference is the guages ill be using will serve a purpose and actually work. i will need guages to monitor my true afr and my boost levels. that is not about a show at all. its about making sure the modifications you do to your vehicle are at safe levels. now how is that just a show. i may have been harsh but think about it this guy is recomending that people go out and buy some pvc pipe to make and intake and possibly cause problems for other peoples vehicles. that is not something you should do on a site like this there are too many people that might take your advice
 
#28 ·
I wasn't bashing the boost guage as being show. I was just referring to the fact that when hitting boost levels and the needle guage jumping would be fun to watch; making it a show. I know that these guages serve a purpose for monitoring items and performance levels.

I just can't wait till you got the turbo kit going so I can have that fun of watching the boost needle jump, like I have fun watching my afr guage span the LEDs. No bashing here.

I agree that the air intake was stupid and should have been done WAY better before ever submitting a thread about this as a performance mod. I too have strong doubts about its ability to lower ET. Unless the entire intake was swaped out for this rather than adding just the filter. I have a hard time wanting to make my truck look like the PVS plumbing found in an unfinished basement of a house.

Any ideas about what I was asking in my last thread post about using a monitoring computer to adjust the fuel rates?
 
#31 ·
gutlesswonder said:
the difference is the guages ill be using will serve a purpose and actually work. i will need guages to monitor my true afr and my boost levels. that is not about a show at all. its about making sure the modifications you do to your vehicle are at safe levels. now how is that just a show. i may have been harsh but think about it this guy is recomending that people go out and buy some pvc pipe to make and intake and possibly cause problems for other peoples vehicles. that is not something you should do on a site like this there are too many people that might take your advice
listen mr 26 year old mortgage broker with nothing better to do than bash everyone elses likes. I like the A/F guage even if it is just for show.

Its kindof like rims. How much faster do your rims make you go? oh wait THEY DONT THEY ARE FOR SHOW. what about a body kit? oh ITS FOR SHOW TOO!

just because i have something doesnt mean it HAS to be for adjusting things.

as for the intake, a simple, i dont think its good works. you dont have to be a total ass and mock every little thing. I dont have money to go out and buy an intake. i had the parts, i made it work. Why cant you live with that? IM 17 AND IM IN SCHOOL. i cant afford much? grow up.
 
#32 ·
well using a monitoring tool isnt going to allow you to change the comps values. its just that a monitoring tool. there are a lot of piggyback systems out now that actually allow a lot of tuning capabilities for a fair price. the smt6 is one of them you can also use greddy emanage you can go a lil cheaper and use a safc or even the hks unit. those unit dont have anywhere near the amount of adjustments the smt6 or emanage do. but they can be used. you can even do an extra injector system. its all about what you want to accomplish. dont skimp yourself now if you plan to do ore in the end because it will always cost you more money in the long run to take short cuts.
 
#33 ·
gutlesswonder said:
then why put a guage in that does nothing. if you know our truck arent for performance then why btoher putting a guage in that is meant to monitor your performance. doesnt make sense. my point is that just because your learning doesnt mean you should act before you think or in this case act before your research is done. it can be very dangerous to start screwing with things you arent fimilar with. then go and make a thread stating how good it was when infact it can be dangerous and cause someone else to follow your directions and screw up their truck. then how would you feel you didnt state you were using insulated pvc. so the next person might not buy that particular set up and jsut go off your thread and end up with melting plastic in thier TB. think before you act or in this case post.
LOOK AT MATERIAL 1 BUDDY.
1. at least 3' of 3" Pre insulated PVC (i think its called DVC? at Home Depot, Its black)
WHAT THE HELL DOES PRE INSULATED MEAN?

i like jedispams comment, why dont you move on?
 
#34 ·
s10jimmi said:
listen mr 26 year old mortgage broker with nothing better to do than bash everyone elses likes. I like the A/F guage even if it is just for show.

Its kindof like rims. How much faster do your rims make you go? oh wait THEY DONT THEY ARE FOR SHOW. what about a body kit? oh ITS FOR SHOW TOO!

just because i have something doesnt mean it HAS to be for adjusting things.

as for the intake, a simple, i dont think its good works. you dont have to be a total ass and mock every little thing. I dont have money to go out and buy an intake. i had the parts, i made it work. Why cant you live with that? IM 17 AND IM IN SCHOOL. i cant afford much? grow up.
dont get soo pissed man you posted it i am allowed to post my feelings and opinions just like everyone else ont his forum. i am not bashing you at all. i am telling you that it could ahve been done much better for the same if not less than what you spent. there is even a link posted to a chrome intakes set up that runs like $26. chill out. and so you know i dont come here to bash people i am probably the most helpful person inthe 2.2l forum. i organize gp's for over 100 members for free. i am in the middle of making a turbo system to sell strictly here for the benefit of the 2.2l members. i get ??'s all day long form hundreds of peopl. i know my shizz when it comes to this truck. if you dont want to hear people opinions about your set up then dont post it. i dont want to see anyone on this forum go out and try your little mod because i dont want to hear at any point in time that someone followed elses shatty write up and ended up screwing up their truck. do you??? so waht i say is not meant to throw stones at you its mean tto wake you up and realize that what your doing isnt smart. it may be creative but not smart. and so you know the rims gave me 2 second in the 1/8th mile man. i swear and the body kit it help hold my rear end on the ground for that ground pulsing hp our trucks have, no really the rims and body kit are gone. i no longer have them. they were given to me by wingswest. i never had any intention of putting a body kit on my truck and couldnt stand looking at it anymore so its gone. it will be laid out on bags hopefully a b/d and turbo'd. see i ahev made mistakes too and it took someone like myself saying the things i do to wake me up. if you dont do things right the first time its just wasted time and money cause in the end your going to have to redo them. so relax and dont get soo pissed that someone thinks your idea was creative but stupid. if you let other peoples opinions get at you your going to go through life a very unhappy person trying to please everyone else.
 
#35 ·
s10jimmi said:
LOOK AT MATERIAL 1 BUDDY.
1. at least 3' of 3" Pre insulated PVC (i think its called DVC? at Home Depot, Its black)
WHAT THE HELL DOES PRE INSULATED MEAN?

i like jedispams comment, why dont you move on?
im sure that every person on this forum looking for an intake knows that preinsulated pvc or DVC is what is needed and they know the difference between the 2. relax man you are creative but the i dea is really stupid. over time you will realize that you have plumbing pipe on your truck and you no longer want it that way. so then waht youve wasted your time and money and a huge write up telling peole that you gained a second inthe 1/8th mile. heheh i still laugh at that one. you will find there are a lot harsher people inthe world than me i am actuall a very nice guy
 
#37 ·
easy up guys, s10jimmi, sorry to say but yer not the only one that made this thread, ull find a lot more of these similar threads on searches

no more bashn aight guys, if wanna argue more, that's wha flame forum are for...
 
#38 ·
I commend your efforts s10jimmi, you are definitely on the right track. Like the others have said, I would do some more research before trying out something like this, or before doing a "how-to".
There is nothing wrong with a homemade intake. They can be made to look very presentable and work just as well as the store bought kits.

I would advise against the short-cuts or quick fixes you mentioned though. I would stay away from super glue or wire as a means of fixing something in place. A properly fit hose clamp over a silicon coupler will correctly attach two pieces of piping without leaks. Also, rather than using wire, brackets or bolts are better and more pleasing to the eye for holding something in position. You should also be able to eliminate the dryer ducting off the list.
 
#39 ·
kid, its a good thought, you tried but made soem mistakes. we have all been there. research more, learn more and then you can make more educated attempts at things you are trying. WE ALL HAVE SCREWED STUFF UP. everyone on here has somehow done something thay dont wanna admit to to their current or past vehicles. its a learning experiance. Hell my froends when i was 17 thought an easy was to get better flowing intake was to remove the filter box AND THE FILTER. yeah i made fun of them then and i still do, and after their engines crapped out they learned. we all go through the learning process.
 
#40 ·
Flaming like this is what makes people stay away from sharing their work. It is unnecesary and if anyone of us has not made any funny thing or mistake on our "modding career", please cast the first stone. We all have been there, done that and appreciate the CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. Well, at least I do. This guy (S10Jimmy) is trying to do good, learning a lesson, sharing his outcome (whatever it is) and taking comments on his work. Give him a break.
 
#41 ·
3. New members (as well as older members), should be treated with respect even if they ask a question that has been answered a thousand times before, simply refer them to the proper thread that answers their question. -- Do not yell at the member to use the search button, this is very disrespectful and can give the site an unwanted reputation.

yeah and screw you if im ever doing a how to again.
 
#42 ·
ok first off get off this members back. ANd i can verify my cold air intake took 1.5 seconds off my zero to 60 time. I ran the truck at 9am 0-60 and at 5pm i ran it again after i was done. MY intake air temp dropped 30 plus degrees, from the warm air intake that i had. Granted my pipe was then wrapped with 1/4" aluminum backed foam to disperse the heat. This required me to remove the windshield wiper resovoir and i notched out the radiator core and inner fender for more air flow. Then i made a air box out of 22gauge steel and took two hours cutting and fitting it. My IAT reads nearly 2 degrees above air temperature.

oh and jus so everyone knows colder air is worse for gas mileage. The one and only reason you gain any hp is because you free up restriction.