Built 4.3 turbo underway Pics will talk

[meyers2211]

[meyers2211]

mother fcker this is the 3rd time writing this up the forum keeps telling me to sign in after i try posting and i lose everything i wrote so i will do it in pieces.

Truck is a 1997 reg cab 4.3l 5spd Stepside
Stuck lifter sent me on this build

Battery relocated to rear, a/c removed

Engine
2001 4.3l 262CID stock bore
Magnafluxed and shotpeened rods
Forged SpeedPro pistons 9.2:1CR
3.48" Stroke
Total Seal rings
Ported and polished heads
Ovate wire springs
COmp cams kit
RR's. High flo oil pump and fel pro gasket kit, Copper exhaust gaskets.
Underdrive pullies

Specs on cam
Int Exh
Gross valve lift .501 .501
Tappet lift 271 266
Duration 215 210

Turbo setup
Turbo situation is rough, Master power in brazil is under renovations in brazil and currently MIA, and i don't want to spend 1000 on a journal bearing garrett. i might guinea pig a ebay turbo
Turbo setup Tial 38mm wastegate
EBay BOV
ebay intercooler

Drivetrain
Stock NV3500, new clutch, new slave, ARP flywheel and PP bolts
STock 3.08 open dif, i hook up wit two wheels and will keep her till i blow her

Fueling
I have the money and the mechanical ability to do the 2114 but for the sake of gettin the project running and my lack of knowledge tuning i will run what the past builder ran on this 4.3 an Aeromtive A1000 EFi regulator with a 1:1 refrence for boost. This setup took his 3800lb blazer to a 13.4 on the 1/4 at 8psi, at 10psi he was lean so for starters i will run this.

Tuning
I would love to run the RPM 2114 setup and tunercat but i don't have a shop that can help nor my own personal knowledge about tuning. I will run an Innovate Wideband but have not selected which yet, its confusing.


First goal 300whp 320lbs torque low 13second slip or atleast MPH good low 13's
Second goal 450whp MEth injection, 2114, tunercat, MSD 6a and distributor 14psi

I'm gonna need a A/c delete bracket, and i broke the alternator bracket when i pulled the motor so pm me a b\price if u have em.

[Zygoat]

looks good its pretty close to what i want to do. i am going to try buying all the tuning stuff right now and learn it before i install all the turbo stuff. let me know how it works out and maybe by the time your ready ill know the turner stuff. and when im reedy u can let me in on some secrets for installing the turbo

[rat]

What is a 1:1 ratio going to do to help you tune? That won't add any extra fuel. It just keeps the pressure drop across the injectors constant. With boost if you don't raise the fuel pressure with the boost you will actually lose fuel pressure. You need something that will raise fuel pressure faster than boost aka an fmu.

[sdime98]

good luck...this is what i'm looking to do..are you sticking with the factory 5 speed?

[02_Vortech]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

mother fcker this is the 3rd time writing this up the forum keeps telling me to sign in after i try posting and i lose everything i wrote so i will do it in pieces.

Truck is a 1997 reg cab 4.3l 5spd Stepside
Stuck lifter sent me on this build

Battery relocated to rear, a/c removed

Engine
2001 4.3l 262CID stock bore
Magnafluxed and shotpeened rods
Forged SpeedPro pistons 9.2:1CR
3.48" Stroke
Total Seal rings
Ported and polished heads
Ovate wire springs
COmp cams kit
RR's. High flo oil pump and fel pro gasket kit, Copper exhaust gaskets.
Underdrive pullies

Specs on cam
Int Exh
Gross valve lift .501 .501
Tappet lift 271 266
Duration 215 210

Turbo setup
Turbo situation is rough, Master power in brazil is under renovations in brazil and currently MIA, and i don't want to spend 1000 on a journal bearing garrett. i might guinea pig a ebay turbo
Turbo setup Tial 38mm wastegate
EBay BOV
ebay intercooler

Drivetrain
Stock NV3500, new clutch, new slave, ARP flywheel and PP bolts
STock 3.08 open dif, i hook up wit two wheels and will keep her till i blow her

Fueling
I have the money and the mechanical ability to do the 2114 but for the sake of gettin the project running and my lack of knowledge tuning i will run what the past builder ran on this 4.3 an Aeromtive A1000 EFi regulator with a 1:1 refrence for boost. This setup took his 3800lb blazer to a 13.4 on the 1/4 at 8psi, at 10psi he was lean so for starters i will run this.

Tuning
I would love to run the RPM 2114 setup and tunercat but i don't have a shop that can help nor my own personal knowledge about tuning. I will run an Innovate Wideband but have not selected which yet, its confusing.


First goal 300whp 320lbs torque low 13second slip or atleast MPH good low 13's
Second goal 450whp MEth injection, 2114, tunercat, MSD 6a and distributor 14psi

I'm gonna need a A/c delete bracket, and i broke the alternator bracket when i pulled the motor so pm me a b\price if u have em.

well friend if your motor acts anything like mine you will be right around 400ft.lbs @ 300whp.... i made 255whp & 330 ft.lbs.....@ 8psi.

good luck

[meyers2211]

Quote: Originally Posted by sdime98

good luck...this is what i'm looking to do..are you sticking with the factory 5 speed?

yes i will keep the stock tranny JDB and sebast both running way more power on their nv3500's

rat well as u can see i'm having difficulty with the tuning aspect down, its difficult to kno where to turn for help, u want to rebuild a motor read a book, build a turbo setup read corky bell, but for OBD2 tuning i have found little, and monodax.com had an intro to tuning but no details or real info jus said all the translations IPR injector pulse rate etc

[rat]

I think it is simpler that most make it out to be. It is fuel air and spark. Air you have no control over. Spark as long as it isn't too much you will be ok on your engine, but may leave a few horsepower on the table if too conservative. So you just have to make sure it has the right amount of fuel.

Either turn the injectors on longer, or if they are turned on too long, then raise the fuel pressure with an fmu.

[meyers2211]

rat whats ur tunercat hourly rate??? lol

and if anybody knows where i can get poly motor mounts let me know

[Bad94]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

rat whats ur tunercat hourly rate??? lol

and if anybody knows where i can get poly motor mounts let me know

Send Badaszbowtie@yahoo.com

Tell him that Bad94 sent you to him, and you would like a set of his frame pads for the poly mounts.

[rat]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

rat whats ur tunercat hourly rate??? lol

and if anybody knows where i can get poly motor mounts let me know

I don't charge for email tuning.

^^^Boosted's pads are great btw.

[blade0604]

hey rat can you help me ? i need to find s omeone to tune my nitrous blazer. i need a tune real bad. any help is greatly appreciated.

[98 SS]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

I'm gonna need a A/c delete bracket

no such thing that ive seen. AC and non ac use the same bracket

[meyers2211]

sry man i meant the non a/c pulley? i remember reading u need one when removing the belt

progress, i emailed mike about those mounts and sent out 4 em and i jus bought a alt. bracket so i can keep moving

[cycle252]

Quick ? did you just swap the left and right mainifolds and weld on the rest of the turbo header. Just wondering

[02_Vortech]

damn i think thats what he did..... cool.

[98 SS]

ahh, yea. There is a non ac pulley that goes in the hole on the ac bracket. I HAD one...but I used it for my tensioner setup that I put there.

[alwayscode390]

Looks like fun, I love my 4.3 turbo Syclone ---

[02_Vortech]

meyers did you just flip the manifolds? cause that is badass i just wanna make sure. i was always wanting 2 do that....

[Dogsofjune]

Nice!

[MINTSICK]

Quote: Originally Posted by 02_Vortech

meyers did you just flip the manifolds? cause that is badass i just wanna make sure. i was always wanting 2 do that....

I didn't even notice the first time but that is definitely what it looks like, you can see the bung for the EGR tube right before where the flange was welded on! That is pretty cool.

About the a/c delete pulley, I think you can also just run a shorter belt without the need for the delete pulley.

[cycle252]

another question for you who did the welding, because i was always told that cast iron is a pain to keep from cracking after its been welded together like that. Also if you know, did they or you (whomever welded it) do the stud technique.

[98 SS]

Quote: Originally Posted by MINTSICK

About the a/c delete pulley, I think you can also just run a shorter belt without the need for the delete pulley.

you can if you go over the pwr steering then under the water pump up to the alternator...if you go around the water pump under and over the pwr steering then to the alt there isnt enough clearance. If you run it with a shorter belt like the first option then you will have a small contact patch on the water pump and a small contact patch on the crank pulley which in my experience will give you crappy charging, especially when your foot is in it. with the possibility of quicker belt wear. with the ac delete pulley and the right belt routing you will get over 180* of belt wrap on each pulley. maybe a hair less on the alt

*picturing everything in my head*......*remembering I still dont have my belt routed right*

[02_Vortech]

i might be doing a front mount T70 as well..... that is so badass.

[MINTSICK]

Quote: Originally Posted by 98 SS

you can if you go over the pwr steering then under the water pump up to the alternator...if you go around the water pump under and over the pwr steering then to the alt there isnt enough clearance. If you run it with a shorter belt like the first option then you will have a small contact patch on the water pump and a small contact patch on the crank pulley which in my experience will give you crappy charging, especially when your foot is in it. with the possibility of quicker belt wear. with the ac delete pulley and the right belt routing you will get over 180* of belt wrap on each pulley. maybe a hair less on the alt

*picturing everything in my head*......*remembering I still dont have my belt routed right*

I remember Crew Cab Sonoma posting about using a shorter belt, no experience with it but I'd much rather have as much belt wrap as possible.

[meyers2211]

yes they are stock manifolds flipped, the power steering is gonna be tight, but some exhaust wrap to the crossover should keep me relaxed. I've heard plenty of things about cast iron welded to steel but this setup has been run before i'm not worried. If u notice jus to the left of the crank pulley if where my tial wastegate is going, jus haven't painted her yet.

as speaking of the EGR i was taking the connection off the set of gibson headers and instead of me loosing the thread i wound up twisting the whole stem on the header instead. so i might be welding her in.

[02_Vortech]

so you clear all the stock components down on the driver side of the engine. thats awsome. i might start working on that 2moro

[5timedime]

*subscribes*

[cycle252]

Just one more... Did you have to modify the passenger side(now the driverside) to get it to clear the Power steering pump. cause i thank this is sort of how im going to to my turbo setup..

[SY2932]

Quote: Originally Posted by rat

What is a 1:1 ratio going to do to help you tune? That won't add any extra fuel. It just keeps the pressure drop across the injectors constant. With boost if you don't raise the fuel pressure with the boost you will actually lose fuel pressure. You need something that will raise fuel pressure faster than boost aka an fmu.

Yup, the "rule of thumb" is your fuel pressure must increase one psi per pound of boost. Looks GREAT ! Keep the updates coming.

[pat-izzle]

haha omg, thats ****ing nice!!

[s10ls]

very interesting project. i'm curious about how that cam works out for you, the specs i want on a custom grind are somewhat similar. those manifolds look good too, do you have pics of them from different angles?

also, can you PM me about how much you paid for those titan exhaust manifold gaskets? i want to get rid of the individual gaskets on mine

[meyers2211]

Quote: Originally Posted by cycle252

Just one more... Did you have to modify the passenger side(now the driverside) to get it to clear the Power steering pump. cause i thank this is sort of how im going to to my turbo setup..

ok my laptop is down so i have to wait till tmr to post new pics, but i took pics of the way the power steering pump and crossover pipe interact. I've currently only ran into two problems of flipping the manifolds. I had to modify the engine bracket idk what to call it. to make it easier to pull the motor that long bracket on the driver side along side the power steering. I had to bend the thick bracket and shave a little off the manifold to get her to sit right. Nothing some mapp gas and a 3lb hammer couldn't fix. The second minor mod was working the manifold around with the oil dipstick. I worked on that but due to my 97 knock sensor to a 2001 block with a dif sensor. i will take rat's suggestion and just relocate it too a water port but the one available has problem with the dipstick, so i might have to mod it again.

Other than that there has been very little issues, knock on wood, the intake manifold is on along with the starter and i started the wiring harness. NExt i'm waiting on my new alt bracket in the mail, frame pads and motor mounts in the mail

Summit order
aeromotive fuel pressure gauge
8mm wires
1" and another roll of 2" black exhaust wrap
poly motor mounts

to answer the problem of the crossover vs power steering

I wrapped the crossover pipe in 2" exhaust wrap because the power steering lines are extremely close. along with the oil cooler lines i took lots of closeups to answer the requests of the pics but will post tmr

[King_Ice_Flash2]

Did you have an accident taking the hood off?
So is there an ETA for the first startup?

Quote: Originally Posted by 02_Vortech

i might be doing a front mount T70 as well..... that is so badass.

*Vultures circling*
How much do you want for your remote mount

[meyers2211]

Quote: Originally Posted by King_Ice_Flash2

Did you have an accident taking the hood off?
So is there an ETA for the first startup?


*Vultures circling*
How much do you want for your remote mount

haha well kinda, when i got the truck it was 1500 bucks wit a smacked up front clip i swapped over all my 96 2.2l parts and sent that the to scrap yard. i took her out ona test drive after i fixed the misfire and the hood wasn't latched, i couldn't tell cause it was bent anyway, i hit the gas and up went the hood, quite embarrassing. But the motor went kaput and here we are.

I expect the motor to be in within two weeks, running atleast 1+ month. I'm more concerned with tuning that the grunt work.

[meyers2211]

[King_Ice_Flash2]

Man, you put that engine together faster than I put my posi in. Keep up the good work!

[Zygoat]

what is the exhaust flange/mounting point for on the cross over pipe? not the one that joins the two half's the one that looks like its for a wastegate? is this correct.

[cycle252]

looks like a wastegate hole to me.

[s10ls]

yeah thats a tial wastegate flange.

you will be very happy with your tial 38mm. its a high quality piece and was one of the best mods i have done to my truck

[meyers2211]

this should answer ur question zygoat

good to hear that news s10ls, i wanted two solid pieces for the setup, a good turbo and a good wastegate, because if the wastegate fails i blow a 3000 bucks through my hood hehe

[556mm]

*subscribes*

[onecrazynoma]

psh... wish i had a garage

[Zygoat]

that cleared it up!

[meyers2211]

its been much like christmas here are the frame pads and i'm happy i finally got the turbo ordered :-)
master power t70 compressor housing .70 A/R exhaust housing .68 A/R undivided booo but whatever, 3" v band outlet
paid $652 shipped for turbo and v band

[Zygoat]

where'd you get it from?

[meyers2211]

post #10 zygoat

[cycle252]

are you sure the .68 a/r of the exhaust house isnt going to hurt you, how much power you looking to make. I personal am going with a .82 just to be sure not to choke off the top end because you know thats what these motors need in the first place. It ball bearing turbo isnt it so the larger a/r wont hurt as much



Edit >>> wants all done with the heads you have for sale, and do they include the stock rockers: 96-99 or 2000-up

[meyers2211]

Quote: Originally Posted by cycle252

are you sure the .68 a/r of the exhaust house isnt going to hurt you, how much power you looking to make. I personal am going with a .82 just to be sure not to choke off the top end because you know thats what these motors need in the first place. It ball bearing turbo isnt it so the larger a/r wont hurt as much



Edit >>> wants all done with the heads you have for sale, and do they include the stock rockers: 96-99 or 2000-up

heres my theory with the small a/r. the turbo is larger than needed for my early 300whp mark but i want a turbo capable of 450whp+ when i get my 2114. second a larger turbo has better efficiency than spinning a 50 trim turbo to 70k rpms. The other reason is that with the stock intake manifold the engine falls off after 5500rpm (this is a guess). The smaller the A/r the reduced lag time, i need to have this big turbo spool in my power band, if i had a mitsu evo i might consider a 1.02ar or 96ar but i think its a good decision with the larger turbo wheels and small a/r because this is a pushrod th v6 not a 8500rpm import that can benefit from a 4000-8000rpm spool.

it all comes down to i think if i put a larger a/r on it, i will only see boost at 4000 plus rpm

again jus my thoughts don't know if i'm correct.

[Zygoat]

i meant the turbo not the motor mounts. where did you get the turbo from?