Built 4.3 turbo underway Pics will talk

[meyers2211]

[meyers2211]

mother fcker this is the 3rd time writing this up the forum keeps telling me to sign in after i try posting and i lose everything i wrote so i will do it in pieces.

Truck is a 1997 reg cab 4.3l 5spd Stepside
Stuck lifter sent me on this build

Battery relocated to rear, a/c removed

Engine
2001 4.3l 262CID stock bore
Magnafluxed and shotpeened rods
Forged SpeedPro pistons 9.2:1CR
3.48" Stroke
Total Seal rings
Ported and polished heads
Ovate wire springs
COmp cams kit
RR's. High flo oil pump and fel pro gasket kit, Copper exhaust gaskets.
Underdrive pullies

Specs on cam
Int Exh
Gross valve lift .501 .501
Tappet lift 271 266
Duration 215 210

Turbo setup
Turbo situation is rough, Master power in brazil is under renovations in brazil and currently MIA, and i don't want to spend 1000 on a journal bearing garrett. i might guinea pig a ebay turbo
Turbo setup Tial 38mm wastegate
EBay BOV
ebay intercooler

Drivetrain
Stock NV3500, new clutch, new slave, ARP flywheel and PP bolts
STock 3.08 open dif, i hook up wit two wheels and will keep her till i blow her

Fueling
I have the money and the mechanical ability to do the 2114 but for the sake of gettin the project running and my lack of knowledge tuning i will run what the past builder ran on this 4.3 an Aeromtive A1000 EFi regulator with a 1:1 refrence for boost. This setup took his 3800lb blazer to a 13.4 on the 1/4 at 8psi, at 10psi he was lean so for starters i will run this.

Tuning
I would love to run the RPM 2114 setup and tunercat but i don't have a shop that can help nor my own personal knowledge about tuning. I will run an Innovate Wideband but have not selected which yet, its confusing.


First goal 300whp 320lbs torque low 13second slip or atleast MPH good low 13's
Second goal 450whp MEth injection, 2114, tunercat, MSD 6a and distributor 14psi

I'm gonna need a A/c delete bracket, and i broke the alternator bracket when i pulled the motor so pm me a b\price if u have em.

[Zygoat]

looks good its pretty close to what i want to do. i am going to try buying all the tuning stuff right now and learn it before i install all the turbo stuff. let me know how it works out and maybe by the time your ready ill know the turner stuff. and when im reedy u can let me in on some secrets for installing the turbo

[rat]

What is a 1:1 ratio going to do to help you tune? That won't add any extra fuel. It just keeps the pressure drop across the injectors constant. With boost if you don't raise the fuel pressure with the boost you will actually lose fuel pressure. You need something that will raise fuel pressure faster than boost aka an fmu.

[sdime98]

good luck...this is what i'm looking to do..are you sticking with the factory 5 speed?

[02_Vortech]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

mother fcker this is the 3rd time writing this up the forum keeps telling me to sign in after i try posting and i lose everything i wrote so i will do it in pieces.

Truck is a 1997 reg cab 4.3l 5spd Stepside
Stuck lifter sent me on this build

Battery relocated to rear, a/c removed

Engine
2001 4.3l 262CID stock bore
Magnafluxed and shotpeened rods
Forged SpeedPro pistons 9.2:1CR
3.48" Stroke
Total Seal rings
Ported and polished heads
Ovate wire springs
COmp cams kit
RR's. High flo oil pump and fel pro gasket kit, Copper exhaust gaskets.
Underdrive pullies

Specs on cam
Int Exh
Gross valve lift .501 .501
Tappet lift 271 266
Duration 215 210

Turbo setup
Turbo situation is rough, Master power in brazil is under renovations in brazil and currently MIA, and i don't want to spend 1000 on a journal bearing garrett. i might guinea pig a ebay turbo
Turbo setup Tial 38mm wastegate
EBay BOV
ebay intercooler

Drivetrain
Stock NV3500, new clutch, new slave, ARP flywheel and PP bolts
STock 3.08 open dif, i hook up wit two wheels and will keep her till i blow her

Fueling
I have the money and the mechanical ability to do the 2114 but for the sake of gettin the project running and my lack of knowledge tuning i will run what the past builder ran on this 4.3 an Aeromtive A1000 EFi regulator with a 1:1 refrence for boost. This setup took his 3800lb blazer to a 13.4 on the 1/4 at 8psi, at 10psi he was lean so for starters i will run this.

Tuning
I would love to run the RPM 2114 setup and tunercat but i don't have a shop that can help nor my own personal knowledge about tuning. I will run an Innovate Wideband but have not selected which yet, its confusing.


First goal 300whp 320lbs torque low 13second slip or atleast MPH good low 13's
Second goal 450whp MEth injection, 2114, tunercat, MSD 6a and distributor 14psi

I'm gonna need a A/c delete bracket, and i broke the alternator bracket when i pulled the motor so pm me a b\price if u have em.

well friend if your motor acts anything like mine you will be right around 400ft.lbs @ 300whp.... i made 255whp & 330 ft.lbs.....@ 8psi.

good luck

[meyers2211]

Quote: Originally Posted by sdime98

good luck...this is what i'm looking to do..are you sticking with the factory 5 speed?

yes i will keep the stock tranny JDB and sebast both running way more power on their nv3500's

rat well as u can see i'm having difficulty with the tuning aspect down, its difficult to kno where to turn for help, u want to rebuild a motor read a book, build a turbo setup read corky bell, but for OBD2 tuning i have found little, and monodax.com had an intro to tuning but no details or real info jus said all the translations IPR injector pulse rate etc

[rat]

I think it is simpler that most make it out to be. It is fuel air and spark. Air you have no control over. Spark as long as it isn't too much you will be ok on your engine, but may leave a few horsepower on the table if too conservative. So you just have to make sure it has the right amount of fuel.

Either turn the injectors on longer, or if they are turned on too long, then raise the fuel pressure with an fmu.

[meyers2211]

rat whats ur tunercat hourly rate??? lol

and if anybody knows where i can get poly motor mounts let me know

[Bad94]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

rat whats ur tunercat hourly rate??? lol

and if anybody knows where i can get poly motor mounts let me know

Send Badaszbowtie@yahoo.com

Tell him that Bad94 sent you to him, and you would like a set of his frame pads for the poly mounts.

[rat]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

rat whats ur tunercat hourly rate??? lol

and if anybody knows where i can get poly motor mounts let me know

I don't charge for email tuning.

^^^Boosted's pads are great btw.

[blade0604]

hey rat can you help me ? i need to find s omeone to tune my nitrous blazer. i need a tune real bad. any help is greatly appreciated.

[98 SS]

Quote: Originally Posted by meyers2211

I'm gonna need a A/c delete bracket

no such thing that ive seen. AC and non ac use the same bracket

[meyers2211]

sry man i meant the non a/c pulley? i remember reading u need one when removing the belt

progress, i emailed mike about those mounts and sent out 4 em and i jus bought a alt. bracket so i can keep moving

[cycle252]

Quick ? did you just swap the left and right mainifolds and weld on the rest of the turbo header. Just wondering

[02_Vortech]

damn i think thats what he did..... cool.

[98 SS]

ahh, yea. There is a non ac pulley that goes in the hole on the ac bracket. I HAD one...but I used it for my tensioner setup that I put there.

[alwayscode390]

Looks like fun, I love my 4.3 turbo Syclone ---

[02_Vortech]

meyers did you just flip the manifolds? cause that is badass i just wanna make sure. i was always wanting 2 do that....

[Dogsofjune]

Nice!

[MINTSICK]

Quote: Originally Posted by 02_Vortech

meyers did you just flip the manifolds? cause that is badass i just wanna make sure. i was always wanting 2 do that....

I didn't even notice the first time but that is definitely what it looks like, you can see the bung for the EGR tube right before where the flange was welded on! That is pretty cool.

About the a/c delete pulley, I think you can also just run a shorter belt without the need for the delete pulley.

[cycle252]

another question for you who did the welding, because i was always told that cast iron is a pain to keep from cracking after its been welded together like that. Also if you know, did they or you (whomever welded it) do the stud technique.

[98 SS]

Quote: Originally Posted by MINTSICK

About the a/c delete pulley, I think you can also just run a shorter belt without the need for the delete pulley.

you can if you go over the pwr steering then under the water pump up to the alternator...if you go around the water pump under and over the pwr steering then to the alt there isnt enough clearance. If you run it with a shorter belt like the first option then you will have a small contact patch on the water pump and a small contact patch on the crank pulley which in my experience will give you crappy charging, especially when your foot is in it. with the possibility of quicker belt wear. with the ac delete pulley and the right belt routing you will get over 180* of belt wrap on each pulley. maybe a hair less on the alt

*picturing everything in my head*......*remembering I still dont have my belt routed right*

[02_Vortech]

i might be doing a front mount T70 as well..... that is so badass.

[MINTSICK]

Quote: Originally Posted by 98 SS

you can if you go over the pwr steering then under the water pump up to the alternator...if you go around the water pump under and over the pwr steering then to the alt there isnt enough clearance. If you run it with a shorter belt like the first option then you will have a small contact patch on the water pump and a small contact patch on the crank pulley which in my experience will give you crappy charging, especially when your foot is in it. with the possibility of quicker belt wear. with the ac delete pulley and the right belt routing you will get over 180* of belt wrap on each pulley. maybe a hair less on the alt

*picturing everything in my head*......*remembering I still dont have my belt routed right*

I remember Crew Cab Sonoma posting about using a shorter belt, no experience with it but I'd much rather have as much belt wrap as possible.

[meyers2211]

yes they are stock manifolds flipped, the power steering is gonna be tight, but some exhaust wrap to the crossover should keep me relaxed. I've heard plenty of things about cast iron welded to steel but this setup has been run before i'm not worried. If u notice jus to the left of the crank pulley if where my tial wastegate is going, jus haven't painted her yet.

as speaking of the EGR i was taking the connection off the set of gibson headers and instead of me loosing the thread i wound up twisting the whole stem on the header instead. so i might be welding her in.

[02_Vortech]

so you clear all the stock components down on the driver side of the engine. thats awsome. i might start working on that 2moro

[5timedime]

*subscribes*

[cycle252]

Just one more... Did you have to modify the passenger side(now the driverside) to get it to clear the Power steering pump. cause i thank this is sort of how im going to to my turbo setup..

[SY2932]

Quote: Originally Posted by rat

What is a 1:1 ratio going to do to help you tune? That won't add any extra fuel. It just keeps the pressure drop across the injectors constant. With boost if you don't raise the fuel pressure with the boost you will actually lose fuel pressure. You need something that will raise fuel pressure faster than boost aka an fmu.

Yup, the "rule of thumb" is your fuel pressure must increase one psi per pound of boost. Looks GREAT ! Keep the updates coming.

[pat-izzle]

haha omg, thats ****ing nice!!