12sws27's Boosted 98 GMC Jimmy

12sws27 · Apr 23, 2011

Shane removing his first lug nut!

disturbing V6 · Apr 23, 2011

Tires look real good. Leaves it with a nice stance.

s106banger · Apr 23, 2011

def like the no spacer. i like it, looks clean.

Geoff · Apr 23, 2011

s106banger said:
def like the no spacer. i like it, looks clean.

Yup looks better without the spacer, and I like how you hid your plate in the pics. Teach him young he'll thank you later, I wish my dad had been into cars and taught me stuff, I had to learn everything I know from this forum and trial and error over the last 2-3 years.

12sws27 · Apr 23, 2011

It's hard to keep my son out of pics. He's always trying to sneak him self in. (vain lil'sh!t. LOL) Then the light bulb came on, So I said "Ok, sit right in the middle of the bumper". Wa la! Now I don't have to blur out the tag!

12sws27 · Apr 23, 2011

Took these right now. It got to dark yesterday before I was able to move the truck to a spot I could take a side shot.

Right now the gap between the tire and fender lips is 2-2.24" all the way around (front and back) So I can just lower the back. I'll need to do the front too. So lowering more will have to wait. I might look into a bolt in notch down the line for the back and notching up front because I'll need the room for suspension travel if I go an inch lower.

tretiak · Apr 24, 2011

It looks so much better without the spacer.i dont know where your going to find a bolt in notch, our frames are a different kind then the bolt in. your going to have to do a weld in,if you find one let me know.

12sws27 · Apr 24, 2011

tretiak said:
It looks so much better without the spacer.i dont know where your going to find a bolt in notch, our frames are a different kind then the bolt in. your going to have to do a weld in,if you find one let me know.

I thougt I seen that Suicide Doors had them? I could of been mistaken though. I remember them being small notches. Doesn't matter right now anyways. It'll be awhile before I cross that bridge.

12sws27 · Apr 24, 2011

Yesterday I was gong to install my trans cooler and replace to lug stud I broke. But it seems the tran cooler was a little more involved then i though it was going to be. Looks like I'll have to do some cutting hear or there to run the line.

I could of went ahead and did it but I didn't have the right fitting I would need to run the extra trans cooler in-line with the stock cooler. So I put it on hold for now until I can find the fitting I need. I'f I can or get impatient, I'll just run the remote mount cooler by it's self. I'd rather run both though.

So instead I installed my aeromotive pump and racetronix fuel pump harness. It worked out well and I'm happy with it. I updated the thread I made about the install. So if any one it interested check it out.

tretiak · Apr 24, 2011

yeah i looked at the sd notch. we have a different frame then what the bolt in is for. so you have to run the weld in notch. i did some research on it before i bought it. im going to be running a 5/6 drop on my blazer so i need a notch for mine.

12sws27 · Apr 25, 2011

So this one won't work? http://qualityairride.com/notches/blazer-bolt-c-notch

It say it's for the 95+ Blazer/Jimmys. Even says that the 4 doors need a different "straight" notch and not the "crooked" one like the one in the link.

Boosted6 · Apr 25, 2011

12sws27 said:
Yesterday I was gong to install my trans cooler and replace to lug stud I broke. But it seems the tran cooler was a little more involved then i though it was going to be. Looks like I'll have to do some cutting hear or there to run the line.

I could of went ahead and did it but I didn't have the right fitting I would need to run the extra trans cooler in-line with the stock cooler. So I put it on hold for now until I can find the fitting I need. I'f I can or get impatient, I'll just run the remote mount cooler by it's self. I'd rather run both though.

I would think that it would be benificial to get that hot trans fluid out of the radiator and make it easier to manage ECT's. If you are gonna run both I'd make sure the external cooler sees the fluid first so its not so hot by the time it enters the radiator.

Also I've got to compliment you on how great your truck looks, especially compared to how it looked when you bought it. You've done a great job with everything you've done so far. I wouldn't be too quick to lower it any more than it is, I think it's got a good stance.

12sws27 · Apr 25, 2011

Boosted6 said:
I would think that it would be benificial to get that hot trans fluid out of the radiator and make it easier to manage ECT's. If you are gonna run both I'd make sure the external cooler sees the fluid first so its not so hot by the time it enters the radiator.

Also I've got to compliment you on how great your truck looks, especially compared to how it looked when you bought it. You've done a great job with everything you've done so far. I wouldn't be too quick to lower it any more than it is, I think it's got a good stance.

That's a good point. I never thought of it like that. I was going to have it go through the rad first, then the cooler.

Thanks. It has came along way. I see the guy that used to own it all the time too. He can't get over what I turned it into. He was just about to have a junk yard come and pick it up before i got it from him. It was sitting in a parking lot at his job with a huge trans fluid puddle under it and he was catching hell from the building owner to get it out of there.

As for the drop, the more I look at it the more I'm fine with it. If I went lower it wouldn't be more then an inch and it would be awhile before I did. When i do get around to it I'm going them cheap route. Cut a little more from the front coils and buy some 3" blocks for my 4dr so I can steal the drop leafs off of it and run those and a 1" drop block on mine. I won't do that until I buy some slide-a-link type bars though. #" drop leafs cause some terrible wheel hop.

tretiak · Apr 25, 2011

hmmmm very interesting, maybe i misread the article i found, but i need a larger notch anyway. so hopefully if wont matter to much and i can get away with it.

idahos10 · Apr 26, 2011

run the cooler after the radiator. that way your trans will get fluid that is cooler than your radiator coolant.

If you run the aux cooler before the radiator then the trans fluid will be warmed to the coolant temp and back to the radiator coolant temp, thus making the aux trans cooler useless.

hanz · May 9, 2011

this truck is amazing! i want it!!!
wanna trade? lol

12sws27 · May 9, 2011

hanz said:
this truck is amazing! i want it!!!
wanna trade? lol

Thanks!

I wouldn't call it "amazing" though. It's fun for sure. I'm like then slowest of the boosted guys on here. But I'm also probably the heaviest and I think I'm the only one running 6psi. Everyone else is 8psi and up. That'll change one day.

Got the trans cooler installed. I ran it in series with the rad. Goes from trans, to rad, to AUX cooler then back to trans. I haven't done any data logs to see how much cooler the trans runs.

I was going to install my e-fans this weekend but I got confused about something.....

I first planed on doing LS1 fans then since I also have Intrepid fans I made up my mine on installing those. Now I think I want to install the LS1 fans again....

The previous owner of the ls1 fans wired both fans together. One POS wire and on GRD for both fans. I'm going to run them with my PCM and already have a harness made up. I have the harness figure out.

What I'm not sure of is the POS and GRD on the fans. I know the POS hooks up to my harness, but what should I do with the GRD coming from the fans. Common sense tells me to run it to the NEG of the BATT or just GRD it to the frame/Chassis. Some one else said to do the same. Believe it or not though....I'm kinda electrical retarded and I get confused easy....So I need lots a verification some times. So....that sound good to any of you?

Also about the harness, I have one wire that pins into the pcm that will trigger a relay and turns the fan on. When it turns on and off I'll control through the pcm. Then there is another relay and wire that will turn it on when the a/c comes on. No diode though. Should there be a diode? I read some where that if there isn't one that current can run back to the compressor or something like that? I'm wondering if I should even hook that wire up yet?

s106banger · May 9, 2011

shouldnt you be able to control the fans with just the ecu, even when the a/c comes on?

and yes i on the ground straight to the frame, theres a ground by where the air box would sit on the core support i used.

just did efans on the tutu btw.

12sws27 · May 10, 2011

No, not the A/C. The newer PCMs have the capability though. But only on the newer FS trucks that come with E-fans. There is no A/C pressure sensor or whatever for the PCM to read a/c pressure. That's how the newer pcms control the fans with the a/c on. Or some sh!t like that. All I know is it sounds like it would be more work then what it's worth.

Wait....I just re-read your question and think I misunderstood it at first...so yes. But, the way it's set up will be so it come on anytime the a/c is on no matter what the temp or speed I'm going. So it will over ride the pcm commands so to speak...atleast I think that's how it goes.

Here's a pic of my sorry ass fan controls BTW. Not as many as the 0411 pcm.

s106banger · May 10, 2011

thats the way a lot of fans are setup, to come on anytime the a/c is on. if you wire it through the a/c clutch it will work the same way.

the reason it should be on is because your a/c system works just like the cooling system in the car. heat is taken from the cabin and exchanged to a raditor (condensor), that sits infront of the cooling raditor for the engine. this creates lots of heat in the middle of a summer 100*+ day.

another draw back is if you wire it straight to the clutch, the fan will come on with the defroster. the a/c is used to take moisture from the cabin also. im not sure if it will still come on or not if you do it through the ecu.

and another note, the a/c system should have 2 sensors. one on the high side one on the low. if the pressure is below threshold on the low side the a/c will not come on because low refridgerant will damage the compressor. too high and it will turn the clutch off also for obvious reasons.

12sws27's Boosted 98 GMC Jimmy

12sws27

disturbing V6

s106banger

Geoff

12sws27

12sws27

tretiak

12sws27

12sws27

tretiak

12sws27

Boosted6

12sws27

tretiak

idahos10

hanz

12sws27

s106banger

12sws27

s106banger

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities