the top end will probably stay the same
-vortecs
-stock valves undercut
-3 angle valve job
-light bowl porting
-marine intake
-42lb injectors, for now
gonna keep the cam i have, i know its not the best but its better then stock. comp 270ahr w/stock valvetrain.
so now the boosted part
-turbonetics custom 60 trim
-syclone manifolds
-external wastegate on the crossover
-ebay BOV
-still need to find a wastegate
trans will be a 4l60e that i built at school, actually just finished it today. gotta get a higher stall converter.
-external cooler
-deeper pan
-transgo kit
so the goal is start off at 8lbs and work my way up to 14-15lbs. long term goal is 11.50's so i dont have to put a cage in it.
as a result of going fast i have to sell some old parts to fund the new ones. so, the wynjammer kit is for sale, its a complete kit. im selling my headers with the y-pipe and all hardware. ive got a hypertech power programer. and my old 4l60e with a transgo shift kit installed.
Why not at least step the mains up to billet 2 bolt caps. Anything that will help keep the bottom end in the block is good IMO. The blocks going to the shop anyway. SO no real extra work for them unless you splay it.
As long as your studding it. Only other thing to do is put main cap straps on. Requires no work at all. But helps stiffen and keep from braking the caps. Only other thing that will help is a good set of cometic head gaskets since they work really well in boosted applications. With ARPs holding everything in place. Keep us posted. And remember itd never fast enough
Hell i ran stock felpro replacements on my motor, did fine at 16ish psi on a mpt70.. well the gaskets did anyway... If you follow the guidlines on the finish surfaces i dont see any problems with the felpro mls
Aww, thanks I spose. I try and dull the pain with rum.
What have you decided on the cryo of the crank? I am looking forward to seeing what your build turns out like. I really want to run a turbo V8 in my '03, but would like to stuff the 6 in a first gen someday and explore some more potential.
Aww, thanks I spose. I try and dull the pain with rum.
What have you decided on the cryo of the crank? I am looking forward to seeing what your build turns out like. I really want to run a turbo V8 in my '03, but would like to stuff the 6 in a first gen someday and explore some more potential.
i think a first gen would scare lots of people if you left it stock looking and quite. are you starting to save for the turbo 6.0/4l80e now then? lol.
i havent decided anything yet. my manager from work knows mike from callies crank and sent him an email for me. he responed with "its icing on the cake" and that it will only help and not hurt. pretty much all my instructors at school say get a forged crank, but thats easy for them to say when they wouldnt have to spend the 2500 bucks to get one.
the first thing i have to do is tear the motor down and magnaflux the crank. if it has any cracks, its worthless. ill try to get that done here in the next month, time permiting.
Not sure what a shop cost to do it. But I do know you can get a treated crank from RPM. Thats were mines from. And one thing I can tell you is after treating it will need to be balanced and straitened.
i will probably call them here soon. i was going to try to find someone local i could drop it off at, if i do it. ive heard of it costing from 200-300 bucks. the rotating ass. will be balanced either way, what do you mean by straightened though? like ground? thats another thing i was trying to figure out with cryo treating.
Not sure what a shop cost to do it. But I do know you can get a treated crank from RPM. Thats were mines from. And one thing I can tell you is after treating it will need to be balanced and straitened.
I assume the cryo process can distort the crank. I always wanted to look into this for my 6.
Yes, saving for a V8 has begun, but don't expect that transformation to happen for a few years yet. House of Boost here in Lenexa has an LS3 shortblock I wouldn't mind.
I assume the cryo process can distort the crank. I always wanted to look into this for my 6.
Yes, saving for a V8 has begun, but don't expect that transformation to happen for a few years yet. House of Boost here in Lenexa has an LS3 shortblock I wouldn't mind.
got them from a guy on syty.net. he was sleeze ball and no longer is with that forum. i bought "cracked" ones from him cheap with the intent to fix them. when i got them one was broken in 2 and the other wasnt far off. i had some one fix them, for free as favor, but i was not happy about it. i had to have someone with a big belt sander flaten them also, and he did them on the wrong angle. so now i have to have my dad make some spacers with an angle cut into them to fix it. fun one there....
i already have 42lb injectors, cost me $75.. doesnt get any cheaper for new ones. im gonna need bigger ones anyways.
Basically it means it distorts it pretty good. But once corrected it makes it one stiff hard piece of material. Straitening puts all surfaces in spec. Anytime you heat a surface to harden it it distorts the metal and can slightly bend the crank. Straitening fixes that. Balancing makes everything run smooth. I don't have any pictures of mine. But you can see all the weld marks from the balancing and heat and clamp marks from the straitening. And she holds together.
so its not grinding.. who straightins cranks? ive never heard of it before. ive seen plenty of cranks welded on for balancing. i know heat would distort metal, but so does freezing? i mean it makes sense.
i like to think of them as having character... when everything gets put together i might find another set. i just dont want to pay 350+ to get another set. they jumped in price.
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