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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Chris -

You've got good pressure at key on engine off. It drops to 50 when you start cranking. That looks like it could be a wiring problem. Looks like the pump is not getting enough power while cranking.

I would check the fp ground on the frame rail - driver's side. Take the connection apart and sand all surfaces, reassemble.

Next, disconnect the fp wiring harness and look at the plugs real close. Look for dirt, corrosion, or a burned connection. Clean if necessary and try the gauge test again.

Also try changing the fp relay with another known good relay in the box.

The way that the pressure is in the vid, I'd be afraid that a new pump would do the same thing.

thanks yogi! im gonna go try that right now. i guess i will have to drop the tank to check the plugs? ill get it in the garage and check it out.
 
would it be ok to just put on an msd fuel pump that mounts to the frame? i can get it for 94 dollars. ive had them on my past 2 trucks with no problems.(89 s10 4.3 and 91 ranger 4.0)
Click here for a thread on how to install the MSD fp.
 
you were showing prices for entire fp modules, get the pump number while u have it apart and buy just the pump, u dont need a whole module, i dont think u would.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
well thats just my luck.. i go to drop the tank to check out all the wiring, it all checks out fine, go to jack it up and somehow the tank slipped off the jack and ripped all 3 lines off with part of the fuel pump.. so i had no choice but to go buy a fuel pump. bought one from advance. one year warranty. not one i wanted but its my only vehicle so i had to do something. ill let it sit for a while and hopefully that was the problem. this one is alot quieter.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
i still have the problem i did.. i havent got around to checking the pressure. i have a new fuel filter for it, so im going to change that tomorrow and check the pressure. i was real lazy today. figured might as well be, dont get paid mondays off alot lol..

but it runs like normal when started. i cleaned the frame to bare metal for the grounds. the connections are good. ill make a video of it starting tomorrow morning. it may not be bad, but it used to not crank as long as it does before starting.

so i will report back with updates around lunch time tomorrow..
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
so 300 later and still where ya started?

man that blows
ya lol.. but it was kinda my fault also..

dont let the tank slip off the jack.. what sucks even more was i had checked all the wiring and everything checked out good, i was going back up with it, almost in the clear:rotf:

Image
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
the starting issue seems to be getting a little worse. it cranks a little bit before starting anytime now. but runs just fine. i did notice though after the fuel pump runs, the pressure shoots right back down to 0 it didnt do that before the fuel pump swap. this is getting annoying. i just changed the fuel filter and it didnt help at all. old one didnt even look dirty. i am gonna buy new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and stuff tomorrow hopefully and change it all out.

videos are loading on photobucket. ill post them as soon as they are done.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
ok here it is first thing in the morning.


here it is after driving for about 20 minutes, shut it off, and start right back up


and heres the pressure now, better pressure..
you see when i turn the key of and hear the pump run, a good 61psi
then the pump stops and pressue shoots right back down to 0
then i crank it and it jumps right back up to 61 while cranking and i stop cranking and pump runs again then it shuts off and pressure back down to 0. it doesnt hold pressure anymore. wtf.
 
Man, I hate to tell you this, but if "the pressure shoots right back down to 0" when you turn the ignition off, either that new pump is bad or your fuel pressure regulator suddenly went bad. Not likely that the FPR went bad all of a sudden.

Edit : Just posted and I noticed that you have the vids up. I'm goin to have a look.

Edit 2: Pressure def should not be dropping like that and it should start easier with 60 psi. I would do the tune up but I would also take the pump back. :rant:
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Man, I hate to tell you this, but if "the pressure shoots right back down to 0" when you turn the ignition off, either that new pump is bad or your fuel pressure regulator suddenly went bad. Not likely that the FPR went bad all of a sudden.

Edit : Just posted and I noticed that you have the vids up. I'm goin to have a look.

Edit 2: Pressure def should not be dropping like that and it should start easier with 60 psi. I would do the tune up but I would also take the pump back. :rant:
damn.. all kinds of good news! damnt. im half tempted to spend the 70 dollars and take it to gulf coast auto and have them check everything out. even though it needs a tune up, im strapped for cash at the moment and would hate to spend over 100 dollars on a tune up and not fix anything.

well im gonna do some more researching around on it before doing anything. atleast its still starting so im not stranded.. yet.

i wish the thing was paid off so i could buy a brand new cheap ranger, colorado, silverado or something so i have no worries and v8 the damn blazer
 
damn.. all kinds of good news! damnt. im half tempted to spend the 70 dollars and take it to gulf coast auto and have them check everything out. even though it needs a tune up, im strapped for cash at the moment and would hate to spend over 100 dollars on a tune up and not fix anything.

well im gonna do some more researching around on it before doing anything. atleast its still starting so im not stranded.. yet.

i wish the thing was paid off so i could buy a brand new cheap ranger, colorado, silverado or something so i have no worries and v8 the damn blazer
If you take it to Gulf Coast, they're prolly going to charge you $70 just to tell you that it needs plugs, cap & rotor. Tune it first and then see how it runs. That could be all that it needs (plus the pump) and you save the $70.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
If you take it to Gulf Coast, they're prolly going to charge you $70 just to tell you that it needs plugs, cap & rotor. Tune it first and then see how it runs. That could be all that it needs (plus the pump) and you save the $70.
thats true.. i guess ill do a tune up tomorrow since im already taking off.

and i just cleaned my terminals again to make sure thats fine. i noticed there is corrosion in a couple factory wires. not all built up just the exposed part of the wires is a white/green color. its on t he wire thats goes to the starter and the big fuse under the battery tray.
 
thats true.. i guess ill do a tune up tomorrow since im already taking off.

and i just cleaned my terminals again to make sure thats fine. i noticed there is corrosion in a couple factory wires. not all built up just the exposed part of the wires is a white/green color. its on t he wire thats goes to the starter and the big fuse under the battery tray.
The big fuse holder under the battery tray is where the ignition and the PCM get their power. You def. want that to be good!
 
Im having this exact same problem. My fuel pump went out on my about 6 months ago, and I swapped it out with one from crappozone(only thing open on sunday here).

Two weeks ago I went outside to go to work, and my truck did the same thing yours is doing.

I havnt tested it yet, so I am of no help to you, I just wanted to let you knwo your not the only one. Ill be watching this.
 
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