wtf, never heard of that before....

 

dude that sucks, only suggestion i have is if you got a compressor get a swivel impact and try burpin it off with an impact gun, burp, burp, burp it should come off, if you dont got ontry jacking under tyhe ball joint again and hit the spidle w/ a hammer to get it to lock up and try that, after that try heat or cut it off and replace the nut if you can save tyhe threads
good luck on that on, hope you got a compressor

 

Here is all you got to do. This is a common problem. This trick works most of the time. Take something and wedge between the upper control arm and the well. If you do not have a fender well anymore, just find a place as to put the upper control arm in a bind. Then place the jack under the lower control arm and start to jack it up. The force of the upper control arm being in a bind will force the spindle down on the balljoint shaft. then you should be able to loosen it up.

 

we call that being up shit creek, cut it. ;/

 

ok well, miniburples10, i tried your idea, i stuck a piece of 2x2 lumber between the inner fender and the upper control arm, needless to say it didnt work. My new question is if i cut the bolt with a cut off wheel, between the lower control arm and spindle, will i be able to install a ne balljoint/bolt?? how hard is it to install these?? and where would i get one??

 

oh that sucks. I put a new balljoint on a friends civic. which means you have to replace the entire control arm an dit did the same thingm just started spinning. I just screamed and cused alot and used huge amount of rust eater, it finally came out. But umm you could cut it, the top ball joints just have to have the rivets ground and the new one bolt in, just be careful not to grind or cut the spindle

 

whats RUST EATER, are u just talking about wd-40, or is there actually a thing called rust eater??

 

ok well, miniburples10, i tried your idea, i stuck a piece of 2x2 lumber between the inner fender and the upper control arm, needless to say it didnt work. My new question is if i cut the bolt with a cut off wheel, between the lower control arm and spindle, will i be able to install a ne balljoint/bolt?? how hard is it to install these?? and where would i get one??

Damn that sucks. It has always worked for me. Did you make sure and jack the lower control arm up as far as it could go with the top arm in a bind? I know sometimes you have to put alot of pressure on that area to get it to reseat and be able to break loose. As far as using WD-40. That might not work well. See the problem is when this happens the spindle is not seated in the balljoint shaft fully. So that is why it is turning. This happens sometime when the nut is not fully tightened down in the begginging. You could also try to tighten it back up with the control arms in a bind as I stated. This might also help to seat it so you can then break it loose. As far as having to cut it and replace the lower balljoint. Well you can get the balljoints at most any parts store. But the problem is they are pressed in. So you have to tap them out. Then if you get the replacement that has to be pressed in, you will need to take it somewhere and have it pressed it. But they do make replacement balljoints that bolt in instead to save some trouble.

 

Another option if you do have to cut it and do not want to mess with installing the balljoint. Go to the junk yard and get a lower control arm from a newer truck with the balljoint already on it. I did that when I went from bags back to static just to save me some work. And they only cost me $40 for both sides.

 

the trick with putting wood in between the upper control arm and wheel well usually works for me, combined with the 1/2" impact and swivel 21mm socket that is. if you put vise grips on the stud, its pretty likely that your ball joint is ****ed. cut it below the spindle, then take the control arm off and get a new one pressed in. the ball joint should only be $20 if that, and pressing it in is usually $5-10.

 

the trick with putting wood in between the upper control arm and wheel well usually works for me, combined with the 1/2" impact and swivel 21mm socket that is. if you put vise grips on the stud, its pretty likely that your ball joint is ****ed. cut it below the spindle, then take the control arm off and get a new one pressed in. the ball joint should only be $20 if that, and pressing it in is usually $5-10.

Yeah I am talking to him on IM now and told him the same thing.

 

ok get a ball joint remover fork and wedge it between the spindle and the control arm and tap it in until the nut turns keep taping it in if it dont work

 

I have R/s lca for sale 25 bux dude....problem solved....

 

ok get a ball joint remover fork and wedge it between the spindle and the control arm and tap it in until the nut turns keep taping it in if it dont work

Yeah but by talking with him, it appears to me that the balljoint it shot. And it the lower part of the balljoint shaft is messed up, it will not grab. And since none of the known tricks did not work, that is prolly the case.

 

ok get a ball joint remover fork and wedge it between the spindle and the control arm and tap it in until the nut turns keep taping it in if it dont work

this will not work and only get the nut jammed more. the problem is the balljoint broke out of the spindles taper, you need to keep it forced down to get the nut loose. but since it sounds liek he hammered the shit out of the stud, hes gonna need to cut it.

 

a new ball joint is only like 12 bucks, and you can rent a press from most auto stores for free, with a refundable deposit of course.

 

yeah really just cut it and get a new ball joint, sounds like you need one anyways.