Oil pressure doesnt change when i gear,or when it warms up? If it doesnt change at all I'd say the gauge is no good,and what are u considering loud lifters? could you get a video?

 

Here's a video for you to hear the noise I'm talking about. I've never posted a video here before, so I hope I'm doing it right. I also noticed today that the oil pressure gauge started working again spontaneously. Anyway here is a link to the video.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=&release=103409410

 

Does it go away when it warms up?

 

I drove it about 10miles yesterday after I picked it up, and it did it the whole time. I wonder if some trash has gotten in the oil passageway's that may have caused the oil pressure gauge not to work temporarily and might not be allowing oil to get up to the lifters. Just a thought.

 

on most oil pressure guages there is a little restrictor thing in the fitting that you put in the block fitting when you run the line. Take it out and see if there is something junking it up.

 

Thanks for the replies guy's. The oil pressure gauge isn't the main issue to me at this point. The noisy lifters are what worries me the most right now. I just spent almost $600.00 for a guy to replace a pushrod, lifter, rocker arm, guide, and valley cover. I feel like he didn't properly adjust the lifters when he did the work. What really got me is when he said that the 2.5l motors are notorious for noisy lifters and just put some Rislone in the next time I change the oil. The thing that bothers me is that they weren't that noisy before the work was done and I've had another vehicle with the 2.5l in it and never had that problem. So my main question I need answered is does the 2.5l have a reputation for noisy lifters and is Rislone really the answer to my problem?

 

The rocker arm bolts in these motors cannot be adjusted, just torqued down correctly. They are what is called stop bolts and they can only be tightened so much before they bottom out.And yes over time they can become noisy. But how noisy is the question. Take your valve cover off and make sure you dont have an intake manifold bolts contacting a pushrod.Most of the time any additive is only going to make a problem better, not fix it. Rislone is good stuff and its been around for a long time. Give it a try and see what it does.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll take a look under the valve cover and probably give the Rislone a try. I guess while I've got the valve cover off I should be able to tell if oil is making it up to the rocker arms and lifters. When I slung the rod out of the valley cover I was about a 1/4 of a mile from the house and was able to limp home. In the process most of the oil leaked out through the hole in the valley cover. I'm just hoping it didn't do more damage by running it dry like that. But the guy that fixed it knew about it and was supposed to check and make sure I didn't blow anything else up. Thanks for all the help guy's.

 

sounds like my 2.5 when my oil pump went out maybe your pump is out

 

I sure hope not, but I wouldn't rule it out. I guess when I take the valve covers off to inspect a little closer, I'll be able to tell if oil is getting to the top end at least. If there is no evidence of oil getting up to the lifters and such, what do I need to do in order to test the oil pump?

 

The rocker arm is NOT adjustable as has been stated previously

It is possible he put the earlier flat tappet cam ( you have rollers ) style pushrod
in there , it would be too short and create a loose valve .

Just throwing it out there for you to think on

 

That's an interesting theory. I did notice that on the invoice he put that it was a '90 S10 instead of a '91 S10. I do have an E in the middle part of the Vin number with no A in it anywhere, which I assume means that I have the E and not the A motor. But the guy who had the truck before me put a new block in it and I'm not sure what motor is actually in there. There is a plate on the passenger side of the block. Will that contain any kind of indicator as to which motor is in there and which type of rockers it should have in it?

 

Chris--

Your post and problem are confusing.

You speak of a "valley cover"--only V engines have valley covers.

Then you spoke of taking the valve "covers off"--the Duke engine only has one.

By now, I am figuring you for a troll and just yanking our collective chains here.

Only in your very last posting do you say that your "mechanic" stuffed a used block in your 2.5 Iron Duke truck.

THAT clears things up..lol..

Your mechanic knows that the lifters in your new block were worn or collapsed and he also knows that Rislone has been known to correct stuck shut lifters. He is trying to cover his ass for not checking them or cleaning them, in the original rebuild work. He cut a few corners and cheaped out on you.

I would take it right back to him and tell him to fix it.

 

Think what you want. If you'll look at the video I posted you'll see that I do have an S10 2.5l with noisy lifters. If you don't want to give any helpful information and just assume that since I mistyped "covers" instead of cover, I'm a troll, so be it. It may not technically be called a lifter valley cover on the passenger side of the block where the rod poked through. But when it first started to leak oil before the rod completely poked through, I posted on this forum the question of what was the cover on the side of the block under the intake called and I got the answer from another forum member that it was called a lifter valley cover. Here is a link to that thread. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f104/iron-duke-question-420598/ Maybe I wasn't clear enough when I was talking about the new block, but it was the previous owner of my truck that put a different block in my truck over 5 years ago, not the mechanic that just replaced the rod, lifter,etc a few day's ago. The bottom end is what the original owner replaced and put the top end from the original motor on the new block. My question was plain and simple. It's in bigger font and the color blue in case you missed it. I even posted a video of my truck and the motor with the audio to prove the problem I am speaking of. But if you just can't offer any assistance and just want to call me a troll, then just go right ahead.

 

Chris--

Relax..ain't no body here calling you anything.

We are all here to help each other out.

I said, very productively, to take that sucker back.

And, further, he (your mechanic) should fix it for free.

 

Sorry if I over reacted. But you did say you had me figured to be a troll. I did take it back after driving around the block and the mechanic told me that the noisy lifters are a common problem with those motors and if I were to put the Rislone in the next oil change it would cure the noisy lifters. He also said that the parts he put in were adjusted correctly. That's why I posted my original question. If the general consensus of everyone here say's I should take it back to him, I will. I was just wondering if this guy was really telling me the truth, or if he just didn't want to fix it which is what I originally suspected.

 

Ok , here is your answer
The iron duke is notorious for being noisy , PERIOD
the lifters tick , the cam gear rattles once they get some miles on em , they detonate , they got some piston slap sometimes .
I am not being a smart ass here , I am telling you true

GM didnt design it to be quiet.
nor did they design it to be a powerhouse .
Cadillac smooth it will never be

The duke is cheap to make , cheap to run , and pretty darn reliable if you take care of the thing , despite its shortcomings .

And as to your video , it sounds like a definate lifter tick to me , BUT its not the same as being there .

Now the questions I will pose to you .

Did it sound like that before ?
Does it sound better than it did before it had a problem ?

After watching your video , I wished mine was quiet enough to hear the lifter tick , my cam gear rattle drowns out the smaller stuff.

 

Thanks for the help ratdude. It didn't do it before the work was done. It definitely sounds worse than it did before. When it quits snowing here, I've got a friend that is more familiar with the Iron Duke than I am coming over to take a look at it for me. When I talked to him earlier today, he said his '87 S10 makes a lot of noise too and maybe I'm just freaking out over nothing.

 

There are bolts that hold the intake to the head, some are longer than others and if they get put in the wrong hole will hit a pushrod usually bending said pushrod making a racket in the process.

 

x2^

 

Thanks for the help lesterl and bagged 87. If I pull the valve cover off, will I be able to see if there is an intake bolt in the wrong hole? As soon as this snow lets up some, I plan on checking it out further.

 

Probably would have to pull the rockers loose and wiggle the pushrods around and see if one is bent or binds on something, IDR which one was notorious for that tho. Have you tried a mechanics stethescope to try and see where the noise is comming from?

 

other possibility: oil problem or lifter problem that caused the old pushrod to pop is causing problems with the new ones. that's why you don't just replace ONLY the obviously broken part: you replace all the parts that could be broken or could have been broken by it.

If the engine sounds worse than it did before, he needs to finish fixing it and stop taking shortcuts that will blow your engine up.

Rislone and other oil additives will not fix anything. it will only cover it up like a band-aid

 

when you pull the valve cover, take a light and look off into the bores the pushrods are in. Then you can tell, if any, of the pushrods are making contact with the intake bolts and if you need to put any washers on the bolts. Also, make sure the rocker tips are centered over the top of the valve stems and not off centered.

 

Do not take an aspirin for a freaking brain tumor...
Fix it right...
willie

 

LOL couldn't have said it better!