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How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80

348K views 711 replies 145 participants last post by  Scottie0308  
#1 ·
Here is a little write up/explanation on how to swap your stock CS130D alternator for an AD244 alternator off of most of the full size trucks.

For those of you that NEED a bigger alternator, weather it be because of off-road accessories (winches, lights, etc) or because you need the extra amperage due to a bigger sound system, you would probably upgrade to an aftermarket alternator to meet your needs. Well, unless you are paying $300+ for a built alternator with a good stator and regulator put in, you will loose voltage at idle when you purchase the upgraded one. This is where most people have their concern, especially you off-road guys.

For example, when you put a 160 amp stator in a stock CS130D (4.3L) case, you will get the 160 amps, but only at about 1000 engine RPM's. Our 4.3L's idle at ~550-600, so the output is a lot less, voltage and amperage. I've found that my "built" CS130D only put out 45 amps and 12.8v at idle, when I needed a LOT more than that to keep my lights from dimming at idle.

So, our goal here is to get output (amperage and voltage) at idle as well as our required output at speeds greater than idle. With the AD244, you can have the best of both worlds.

*You can pick up a used AD244 alternator from your local junkyard for ~$40-$50, depending on mileage/condition*

The AD244 alternator came off of several full size pickups, from different years. There were two versions of the alternator made, a 130A version and a 145A version. You can call your local junkyard/salvage yard and ask them what it came off of, how many miles are on it, and what version it is (130A or 145A). Here is a link to everything you need to know (including what vehicles it came off of) about the AD244 (thank juddspaintballs for the link)

http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/partimage.cfm?wai_num=1-2419-21DR

*The AD244 alternator will bolt right up to the stock alternator bracket on the 4.3L with NO modifications to the bracket. The only thing that is different is that you won't be using the 3rd bolt that is on the backside of the alternator. The CS130D has this, but the AD244 doesn't. You won't have any troubles with the bolt not being there.*

*The AD244 uses the same wire harness as the CS130D. It is a plug-and-play application.*

Now, I know what you guys are thinking..... "well dude, I need wayy more than 145 amps." That's what I was thinking too when I was doing this mod. I've got a decent sized sound system in the truck and some aftermarket fog lights on my safari bar, so I needed the extra amperage.

Bench tests have proven this alternator to put out 200+ amps at idle when cold. Yes, that's right, at idle.

When the alternator is warm it will easily put out 100 amps at idle,which is way better than the CS130D which is only capable of producing ~40 amps at idle.

It is a slightly underrated alternator (you audio guru's out there know what the term 'underrated' means and how it compares to the quality of a product). I can crank my system to the max and have no voltage issues with it when I'm at idle. I'll maintain a 14v and my lights don't dim.

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Now that you have the alternator, you'll be needing a longer belt. I can't say how long of a belt you'll be needing, but the stock one won't work. If you DO get the stock belt to work (some have) I STRONGLY don't recommend it. It will put a bigger strain on the bearings in the alternator and can cause premature failure. It's worth the extra $35 for a new belt.

*You will need a belt that is 1"-1.5" longer than stock. For some reason, the lengths of belts changed from year to year (even 98+) so you'll have to do a little bit of math and figure it out on your own :p *

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I also highly recommend doing the "Big 3" upgrade when doing the AD244 mod. Stock wiring CAN take the 200+amps that the AD244 puts out, but if you are having problems with it, then it is probably the wiring.

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Here are some pictures of my AD244 in action:

Output at idle with just my headlights on:

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Output at IDLE with my system cranked to the max:

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Output at IDLE with all accessories on (all 4 headlights [quad beam mod], a/c on MAX with fans at #3, fog lights, and my system cranked to the max:


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13.96 can be lower than most would like to be.... but a stock CS130D would be gasping for air if I was treating it like that.

So, if I had things my way, every s10/blazer would have an AD244 as their alternator, even if they have a stock electrical system.
 
#208 ·
I've been messaging the eBay seller back and forth this afternoon about this and he says that they are essentially the same and that he has actually sold this alternator to a few other guys doing the same thing as me and they have all had good luck with it. He also offered to swap it out with an actual ad244 for me if I like. I figure I will give this one a shot next week and see what happens, if I have any issues I will just swap it out with the ad244 from him.

As far as seeing how it works goes I should basically just check the voltage once its installed and see how high it is at idle cold and once warmed up, right? If it is in similar ranges to what was shown earlier it should be good, right? Is there anything else I should be watching for?
 
#212 · (Edited)
What's the real difference between the older style 4-pin plug AD244, the new ('05-06 up) 2-pin plug, and the DR44G?

Shouldn't it all be in the voltage regulator? I scored an '07 DR44G alternator with the 2-pin plug for free today, I do work on the guy's computer network and built a few machines for him. We both think I should be able to take the alternator apart and swap out the voltage regulator (both units look the same, diff. plug, we looked online). The cover won't work correctly, so I can either trim it or try and find one...

I think I'm going to try it. I found some regs for ~$50 shipped, which will be cheaper than any of the other yards around here (they all want $120+ for the 145A version). The my "good" yard doesn't have any older ones available...
 
#214 ·
just did this over the weekend in my 99 Blazer, along with the big three upgrade (only 4ga, thats all i had on hand). bought a "new" 145 amp alt off ebay (looks like a reman to me), and it appears to be a AD244. $95 shipped and includes a one year warranty. there are no markings on the case except for the "delphi automotive systems" or whatever printing on the front. i havent stuck the DMM on it yet but the gauge is above 14v at cold start and settles right at 14 after warm.

i did take the alt to autozone to have it tested before i installed it. the ebay auction listed it for an 04 H2, so thats what i told the guy at autozone. he didnt give me readings, but he said it passed all the tests...so i guess thats good.
 
#219 ·
i only mentioned that as a reference since I didnt compare voltages with a DMM between the stock alt and the new one. ill have a look at it with my DMM to see the exact numbers. i dont have my amp (alpine pdx-5) installed yet, but that would be the only amperage thristy (its got two 30 amp fuses) thing i will have added.
 
#220 ·
So I got the DR44 alternator installed and so far so good.

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When it was cold it was putting out around 14.4-14.6v. I let it warm up a bit and the voltage dropped slightly but was still above 14v (14.2/14.3v). Then my e-fan (lt1/ls1 fans) kicked on and the voltage dropped to about 14v, still WAY better then its ever been. That was also with my stereo cranked up and the headlights on.

So I think this alternator is going to be good, I let the truck run for about a half hour and everything seemed to be operating well. I'm gonna carry my old alternator, the old belt and the tools to change it in the truck for a couple days, just in case there are any problems.

Thanks for the help getting all of this sorted.
 
#297 ·
How has this alt been treating you for the past 3 months. Have you ran into any problems?
 
#234 ·
2005 gmc and chev 145 amp alts def bolt up the same, just called a scrap yard and found 3, and he said they all bolt up different from 99-05, i told him i had a list of years they fit and he says he didnt care they all bolt up different. can some one confirm this, so i dont drive all the way and find out it wont fit. the guy was a real dick and it would be funny to prove him wrong.
 
#235 · (Edited)
If it's an AD244, it will bolt right up, plug right in, and you need a ~1" longer belt.

It will work, I promise, just as long as it's an AD244. Print out a picture or two for comparison, then see if the real one matches the one in the picture. The guy at the junkyard is a ****ing douchebag and is just pissed cause he has no life to go home to at 6 o clock that night and feels the need to TRY and prove other people wrong just for the hell of it so he can feel better about himself.

Sorry for that rant, but I know exactly the kind of people who you are talking about, and they're a waste of space IMO.

Good luck getting the alternator, I'm sure you'll do just fine in finding it :haha:
 
#237 ·
It won't have "AD244" stamped right on it, that's just the name of the design, but do look for the word: "DELPHI" that is engraved right on the case of the alternator. If it doesn't say DELPHI on it, then I would steer clear. I have yet to hear a decent thing about the "reman" AD244's. All 4 people that I know have had problems with them.
 
#239 ·
There really isn't a number to look for. There will be a "145A" engraved on the top of the case that you will see. I'll get a pic for ya.

Yeah you pretty much just need to recognize the alternator. I mean, it's pretty easy to see the difference between the two. Just make sure you know what it came off of (link in the original post) and print out a picture or two so you know what it looks like.

Here is the picture of the "145A"


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^see how you can see the "DELPHI" that is just to the right of the pulley? If it doesn't have that engraved right on the case, then I would keep looking.

Good luck.
 
#241 ·
The one I got from the same Ebay seller as listed above is a reman I'm afraid. It doesn't have the etched numbers in the case. When I get back home, I will put it on the Blazer and see what happens.
 
#243 ·
Ah, OK. I sent them a question if I could exchange, I'll see what they say. The Blazer doesn't NEED one, just replacing the stocker with dry bearings. This is cheaper than buying a new reman.


I live in Struble.
 
#248 ·
i just went to pick one up and they sold all 3 they had, now they said a local guy sells the 145amps alt brand new, but its some aftermarket company, and the guy said he doesnt know what company makes them for $150, or a local scrap yard has one off a 2004 yukon 145 amp for $100 plus tax!! what should i do, wait till i find a different one, because the place that had 3 sold them for $50!! should i buy my battery first then the alt, or def get an alt first?
 
#251 ·
I would get the alternator first, that's just me though.


i just checked the yukon with a 5.3l out in the driveway, and my alt and the one on the yukon look the same size. and i cant find numbers on both of them. so i dont know if the yukon has a small alt or my truck already has the bigger alt??
Pics of the alt on the 5.3L and the one that you have would be great here :tup: