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How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80

348K views 711 replies 145 participants last post by  Scottie0308  
#1 ·
Here is a little write up/explanation on how to swap your stock CS130D alternator for an AD244 alternator off of most of the full size trucks.

For those of you that NEED a bigger alternator, weather it be because of off-road accessories (winches, lights, etc) or because you need the extra amperage due to a bigger sound system, you would probably upgrade to an aftermarket alternator to meet your needs. Well, unless you are paying $300+ for a built alternator with a good stator and regulator put in, you will loose voltage at idle when you purchase the upgraded one. This is where most people have their concern, especially you off-road guys.

For example, when you put a 160 amp stator in a stock CS130D (4.3L) case, you will get the 160 amps, but only at about 1000 engine RPM's. Our 4.3L's idle at ~550-600, so the output is a lot less, voltage and amperage. I've found that my "built" CS130D only put out 45 amps and 12.8v at idle, when I needed a LOT more than that to keep my lights from dimming at idle.

So, our goal here is to get output (amperage and voltage) at idle as well as our required output at speeds greater than idle. With the AD244, you can have the best of both worlds.

*You can pick up a used AD244 alternator from your local junkyard for ~$40-$50, depending on mileage/condition*

The AD244 alternator came off of several full size pickups, from different years. There were two versions of the alternator made, a 130A version and a 145A version. You can call your local junkyard/salvage yard and ask them what it came off of, how many miles are on it, and what version it is (130A or 145A). Here is a link to everything you need to know (including what vehicles it came off of) about the AD244 (thank juddspaintballs for the link)

http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/partimage.cfm?wai_num=1-2419-21DR

*The AD244 alternator will bolt right up to the stock alternator bracket on the 4.3L with NO modifications to the bracket. The only thing that is different is that you won't be using the 3rd bolt that is on the backside of the alternator. The CS130D has this, but the AD244 doesn't. You won't have any troubles with the bolt not being there.*

*The AD244 uses the same wire harness as the CS130D. It is a plug-and-play application.*

Now, I know what you guys are thinking..... "well dude, I need wayy more than 145 amps." That's what I was thinking too when I was doing this mod. I've got a decent sized sound system in the truck and some aftermarket fog lights on my safari bar, so I needed the extra amperage.

Bench tests have proven this alternator to put out 200+ amps at idle when cold. Yes, that's right, at idle.

When the alternator is warm it will easily put out 100 amps at idle,which is way better than the CS130D which is only capable of producing ~40 amps at idle.

It is a slightly underrated alternator (you audio guru's out there know what the term 'underrated' means and how it compares to the quality of a product). I can crank my system to the max and have no voltage issues with it when I'm at idle. I'll maintain a 14v and my lights don't dim.

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Now that you have the alternator, you'll be needing a longer belt. I can't say how long of a belt you'll be needing, but the stock one won't work. If you DO get the stock belt to work (some have) I STRONGLY don't recommend it. It will put a bigger strain on the bearings in the alternator and can cause premature failure. It's worth the extra $35 for a new belt.

*You will need a belt that is 1"-1.5" longer than stock. For some reason, the lengths of belts changed from year to year (even 98+) so you'll have to do a little bit of math and figure it out on your own :p *

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I also highly recommend doing the "Big 3" upgrade when doing the AD244 mod. Stock wiring CAN take the 200+amps that the AD244 puts out, but if you are having problems with it, then it is probably the wiring.

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Here are some pictures of my AD244 in action:

Output at idle with just my headlights on:

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Output at IDLE with my system cranked to the max:

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Output at IDLE with all accessories on (all 4 headlights [quad beam mod], a/c on MAX with fans at #3, fog lights, and my system cranked to the max:


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13.96 can be lower than most would like to be.... but a stock CS130D would be gasping for air if I was treating it like that.

So, if I had things my way, every s10/blazer would have an AD244 as their alternator, even if they have a stock electrical system.
 
#541 ·
so i went ahead and settled for the 130A one, just because its all they had at the time, and i was in dire need of a new one. but i got it in on Thursday, and man, i gotta say....hell yes to the ad244!! im sitting at about 14.1 at idle, and i dont think i could be more pleased with it! really thankful to you guys!
 
#549 ·
I tried various searches, but couldn't find an answer. I have a 2003 S-10 4.3L, and the plug is almost identical looking to the one Hoosierink posted above, but mine only has 2 wires in it. Is this going to be a problem?

Also, if I just searched Advance Auto parts for their selection of alternators under 2003 Siverado 4.3L, would those work? This is the one I was looking at in particular...
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...LTERNATOR-PREMIUM-Worldwide_10017957-P_11_R|GRPALTSAMS_1359312148___#fragment-3
 
#550 ·
I still want to stuff one of these in my Lumina. I have a 260A alt in there and it idle output is obnoxious. Anything above idle and the alt is a champ, I could have my system blaring, all my lights on, my A/C cranked and it never drops below 14... I sit at a stop light; and after a few seconds my voltage gauge will drop to 10, lights will dim, heater slows down, and if I wait long enough the car will start to run like shit since it's not getting enough juice.

I need to pick one of these up and see if I can make it work. I could really use it on my 9C3, the lightbar on that thing overtaxes the alt and drains the battery in seconds.

The 4.2L Trailblazer has a 150A AD244, right?
 
#551 ·
Pretty sure the trailblazer uses the 2 prong version with the computer controlled voltage reg. You have to have one with an internal reg
 
#553 ·
Alrighty so i just spent the better part of around 3 hours reading through this thread and decided it was time to make a post..

First and foremost, i understand no one has been able to figure out how to wire a 1st gen up to a ad244 as the connectors are different. Now while scanning the thread i have seen the connectors used but I have not seen the one that's on my truck (in sig). Ive attached it in this post.

My alt has no markings except for a small "4A" on the left side (if you are looking at the front of the truck) and "Delco Remy" on the back part. As far as I know Delco Remy is GM so its most likely a stocker but im not sure which one. Ive also attached a picture of the markings except for the "4A" as there is no room to put my iphone.... So im guessing its a cs130 but need some incite on that.

Will i be able to hook a ad244 up to my truck or has there not been any further development in the connector dilemma?

Lastly I pictured my old tranny mount compared to my new one for shits and giggles as i just replaced it. and if anyone cares i almost got my head crushed by the crossmember when it fell to the floor with me completely under the truck....

Thanks guys :booty:



PS: Can someone find other links that give the make/model info for the ad244? all the wai-wetherill.com ones have shit the bed....
 
#554 ·
and of course it wouldnt let me post pictures so here they are. in order.

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#555 ·
I'll be working on getting the AD244 hooked up to the 2.8 wiring harness on a 1987 truck that's getting a 4.3 engine swap. It's entirely possible, I need to find the info but you can get a special plug for the AD244 from Summitt (IIRC) or make one yourself. It requires a resistor somewhere. Neo is the one that gave me the information.
 
#556 ·
Well I was balls deep in google trying to figure out the connector dilemma and found this on blazerforum: LINK but it just says to crimp your old wires to the new plug. Doesn't tell you what wires or on which connections on the connector itself. Someone really needs to post this information as it's obviously a problem and people have figured it out.
 
#558 ·
#559 ·
So basically what your saying is this:

Get a ad244 style plug, put say a 50ohm resistor on the L terminal and I'm good? My current plug only has two wires going to it. Tried to trace those wires and see where they went but they feed into the main harness and I couldn't see which one went where. I'm guessing one is the ignition wire and the other is ground? Idk I'll go out to my truck in a bit and see if I can find where the wires go
 
#560 ·
alrighty... couldnt follow the wires but i got a picture of the plug and color of the wires.

Red/Black Stripe = Terminal "F"
Black or Brown (cant tell..) = Terminal "L"

Those are the only wires going to it and heres a picture of the pug itself:

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As you can see Terminal "S" and "P" are not used.


Judging by THIS thread it should be plug and play since he too has the two wire setup. Did this dude just get lucky or is that how it should work. He didnt need any type of resistors or anything. Granted he has a GMC jimmy but i mean it looks like his wire setup is the same as mine.
 
#562 ·
found a new ad244 on ebay for 100 bux shipped. this good? no junkyards at my disposal :/ ...

Heres the link: LINKY

You ever find the link to that plug Chris? That would be wonderful if you did. Check your history :p
 
#563 ·
#564 ·
#565 ·
WOOOOOTTTT. So that's the one huh? Just crimp it to my factory wires and bada-bing bada-boom? B_Rich may want to add this to the OP :)
 
#567 ·
For sure man. Figured I'd put some effort into searching for the answer that many people are trying to figure out. Glad we could help out :)


But that's the connector I need right? Just crimp those wires to the factory wiring and done deal? Just want to get 109% on this before I go ahead and pull the $130 trigger on new parts nah mean??
 
#569 ·
I haven't hooked mine up yet, so I couldn't be 100% sure. If you don't use the connector with the resistor and you turn on your headlights and you blow fuses, you'll know right then you'll need the resistor.