You can do it that way...you could also put one trans cooler line in an empty bucket and fill another bucket with fresh fluid and do a transfusion that way. Or you could get a trans flush done at a shop. Whatever floats your boat.

 

By unscrewing the trans cooler lines from the radiator is that what you're saying well I have enough play in the line to actually is it going to drop far enough to get a bucket and we're going to have to lift have the truck High Enough you know I really don't like messing with those trans cooler lines that hook up to the radiator because they can break off easily at least on a Dodge that did that and I had to buy a whole new radiator from over tightening it and you couldn't even tell that it was over tightened and it just snapped right off anyways I did try to extract it with a Pittsburgh multi-use fluid extractor that I bought from Harbor Freight and I shove the tubes far as I could down in there but I can only get about a quart out so I need to get a smaller diameter tube and try to work with that or I don't know

 

Mo kinda hinted in one of your threads about punctuation. Your threads are extremely hard to read without it. It takes less time to use it, than it takes time to read your threads. Please use it in the future.

 

But you have to be smart enough to know where to punctuate. The younger generation is use to texting on a phone. Or text to speech.

 

This is the easy way:

 

you wont get the fluid in the torque converter by shoving a tube down the dipstick, nor by dropping the pan. to change the whole system you need to do as jstroud says, set up the hoses at the rad to pump old fluid in a bucket and pull new fluid from another bucket, then start the truck. I cant remember if the return hose will pull suction so you may need to set it up as a big funnel and pour in new as the old gets pumped out. depending on your year, the hoses can be unclipped with a screwdriver, no need to unscrew them. then you use rubber hose to attach to the two lines. you will need about 12 qts to flush completely through the converter.

flushing a trans pulls all the crap in the system through the filter, so you will want to change it too. either have a fresh one in before flushing, or replace it after flushing (and another 5 qts new fluid)

I had an old BMW with a GM auto trans that was notoriously weak, we did flushes and filters every 70k and the trans worked perfectly for more than the 12 years we owned it and 287k. conversely my wifes pilot is a "lifetime fill" and they (honda, also internet forums) do NOT recommend flushing, for a complete fluid replacement you have to drain and precisely measure what comes out, and replace it eaxctly, run it a while, drain and measure and replace, run drain measure replace run drain measure. they recommend using 20qts to do this, it sucks haha.

 

I know thats the right way to do the transfusion but I don't have a garage to do this in or anywhere really I'm in an apartment complex so that's why I'm just going to do this tube extraction and do it two or three times and then you know you'll have at least mostly clean fluid through it since the pan drop and fluid change that way and filter change is only been about 3,000 miles on the city so I don't think my filters even really that dirty and I just don't want to drop this pan right now without installing a transmission pan with a drain plug on it that I don't have right now

 

smaller diameter tube got about a gallon out so I figure I get about 3 gallons out and replace with three new gallons and pretty much have clean fluid in there

 

In order to change all the fluid, this is the only proper method:

Without pulling the separator plate, there is no way to get all the sludge and debris out of the accumulator, spools, temp/press switch array, and other pockets. Without disassembling the pump, there is no way to clean the sludge out of the rotor behind the vanes, and no way to clean the slider pocket. Without removing the converter and dumping it, there is no way to remove all the sludge since they stopped providing converter drain plugs years ago.

For the rest of those who don't want to go that deep, routine pan drops and filter changes are sufficient. I know a LOT of other ASE techs who will give you a dozen valid reasons to never perform a flush.

 

Thanks, how do you tell if you have sludge buildup without taking it apart?
By the way. Since I extracted about 3 gallons of fluid in between a few miles of driving between each and replaced with all Valvoline high-mileage full synthetic, I've had better overall shifting, except for a thump when I get when I start going down a very Steep Hill but that's when I'm in 3rd when I shift into second and slowing down to a stop before I change into second. Fluid that was extracted out of this transmission was definitely not good I suspect it was probably the original, and there's a heavy-duty tow hitch on the back. I'm considering installing a tranny cooler in front of the radiator, and I was thinking of just getting a basic Hayden, I don't drive this truck very hard just a daily driver few miles a day but I do live in Dusty hot conditions so I want to preserve this Transmissions long as possible.

 

He's gotten much better...