What's the application?

 

There are better crimp connectors that the one shown. For example this style butt connector:

The style of crimping pliers used is also important. You want ones that crimp on the opposite site of the pivot. They crimp much tighter than the cheap universal cut strip and crimp ones.

Don't forget to put the shrink wrap on before you crimp and use only 3-1 Marine shrink wrap with the adhesive sealant inside for automotive use to protect your finished wire from the elements.

 

In this specific case, I am rewiring an Intrepid Fan (2 motors). It is supposed to have two separate feeds to each motor but the supplier to VDO just supplied single speed fans and terminated the high and low speed wires on the same motor connection. So now I have a pair of wires to extend to a single position on my fan power relays. I don't really want to pull the back motor cases off, de-solder the two wires and then re-solder a single wire. I can deal with Packard 56 and various Metri-packs, etc. but the fan manufacturer used this method in the fan harness, so I was looking at emulating him. I've installed a Painless harness in a CJ7 and this will be an extension of a Painless harness in an S15. My crimps are generally type B.

 

You don't need to go in and rewire the motor. The wires are just redundant. Don't hook up one on each fan.
I cut them just above the motor and removed the useless wire. Then I put a short piece of shrink wrap over the bare end + 1/4" and sealed them to prevent any chance something could contact the end and short the relay. Which are fused.

 

^ as usual, this guy is spot-on.
Butt splice, not overlapped. Don't solder the ends, most end up wicking solder up the wire and making it brittle as hell and causing more problems than it solves.

 

It's really odd that two wires were connected to each motor terminal and then reduced to a single wire before the plug. On low speed both fans now run on 12v and on high speed both wires are energized but doesn't add anything. I would be concerned about eliminating one wire to each fan, but the ground wires (one to each fan) don't appear to be as large as the power wires. This is the VDO factory splice:

 

I use marine grade heat shrink butt connectors. Get the ratcheting crimpers if you are going to do a lot of them.

haisstronica 200PCS 16-14 Awg Blue Heat Shrink Butt Connectors-Tinned Red Copper 0.8mm-Marine Grade Insulated Crimp Wire Connectors-Waterproof Electrical Connectors-Butt Splice for Marine,Boat,Stereo: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

haisstronica 200PCS 16-14 Awg Blue Heat Shrink Butt Connectors-Tinned Red Copper 0.8mm-Marine Grade Insulated Crimp Wire Connectors-Waterproof Electrical Connectors-Butt Splice for Marine,Boat,Stereo: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Titan Tools - Ratcheting Heat Shrink Terminal Crimper (11955) : Everything Else

Amazon.com: Titan Tools - Ratcheting Heat Shrink Terminal Crimper (11955) : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

 

Do a search on those Intrepid fans on here. There were a couple threads a week or so ago with how to wire the VDO ones to get both speeds. Just need one extra 5 wire relay.

 

Not an expert by any means but I like the open barrel style it holds on to the wire cover also. Requires a special crippper.

 

Not an expert by any means but I like the open barrel style it holds on to the wire cover also. Requires a special crippper.

View attachment 357485

I'm definitely not fan of this kind of connector - plus as stated a special crimper is needed..

 

I've done a number of harnesses and was just seeking additional thoughts on this particular case. The Type B crimp is superior and the crimping pliers can be had for around $30. I like your connectors Hoosier Rick and will keep them in mind the next time I stock up. I've looked at wiring the Intrepid Fans Series/Parallel and had posted this proposed wiring diagram. It sure would have been nice if VDO had actually duplicated the original factory fan.

 

Back to my original question that has never been addressed:
I've read a number of instruction manuals on crimping and they all seem to be in agreement that the copper conductors should be maintained in their original configuration. Any modification such as splaying or twisting reduces the density and interaction of the strands influencing conductivity and durability.

 

So, to get back to your inquiry - Specifically, I would use the connector and other items per post #3.

 

Thanks for the input. I have those closed end barrel connectors as well with the matching crimper. I was just investigating this alternative.

 

I just recently came across the WAGO connectors. I just got some 2 and 3 wire versions but intended to use them on romex rather than the screw-on type. I've done tons of automotive open barrel types, expecially weatherpack, with nary a problem with wire capture.