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can I make low and high beams work together?

7.9K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  bigpokie  
#1 ·
is there a way to wire it up so that when I put my high beams on the lows stay on?
 
#6 ·
Painless performance offers a kit to do this. Comes with all the wire you will need and a relay aswell as conecters. Saves from having to do a hack job that might cause some headaches down the road. All for the measly sum of $50.

bbcc
 
#8 ·
Wouldn't this be illegal...I mean, I know illegal things are fun as hell, but seriously? It just seems like having your brights on all the time would be considered...rude? I'd like to do it, don't get me wrong, but I feel pretty sure that its illegal..at least in Kentucky. You can get a ticket for failure to dim high beams.
 
#9 ·
i had thought about getting another set of hids for my high beams and doing the quad beam setup just for the fck you factor. but i hardly ever use my highs anyways, nor do i do a lot of night driving.
 
#12 ·
Another note: Just found it.
I used to use a quad-lite conversion system from StylinConcepts, which they sold for around $20.
But these will not work if you have DRL's that use a lowered high-beam lamp
for this light source.
BUT: Summit racing, in their September-October 2007 catalog, on page 356
show a kit for converting MOST 4-lamp system GM trucks to a 4-on, on
high beam, for $16.95. It is catalog # SUM-890300.
There is also another website that has the instructions for overriding the
GM DRL system, but as I recall on S-10's it is a bit_h to do, because of the
way they do it with the high-beam circuit.
I have used the 4-lamp relay system successfully on two older GM trucks,
a Suburban and an '95 Astro. I tried it on my 2000 Astro and it would not work because of the internal override system to turn off the DRL's.
 
#16 ·
i doubt the kit gives you relays and thicker wire that runs from the battery.
you are still running a BIG strain on the twist tie factory wiring. if you understand what you are doing, id prefer to save money, and also do it the safe way
 
#15 ·
Not to be sarcastic or anything, but the very first time I did this had to be 40 years ago. It's sorta like everything else. Today it seems to take parts that never existed back then??

We just added a switch between the low and high positive side right in the dash. (created a short between the two positives) One simple heavy duty toggle switch. The next time I did this was about 15 years ago and I just did the same thing. When switch is off the system is operating normally. Funny how this gave us three choices, low beam, high beam and low + high beam.

Is there a good posibility that overcomplicating things is now the norm???

Oh yeah, somebody will remind me that the switch contacts better be heavy duty enough? So do the relays. Simplicity saves problems. Simplicity decreases failure odds.
 
#17 ·
The kit mearly applies power to the low beem relay while the high beem circuit is energized. No additional current is flowing through the wiring, eliminating the need to replace the factory "twist tie" wiring. But as i said before; maybe its just me, and maybe i really dont know what im doing.

Cheers :p
bbcc
 
#18 ·
I have the quad beam mod, I only did it so it didnt cut my HID's on and off everytime I went from low's to high's. But in reality, my HID's are so bright I RARELY use the highs anyway.
 
#19 ·
i have all my headlights HIDs with the quad mod alslo. best way to give everyone who rides with blight lights on a rude awakening. i laugh at people who i see from a short distance away with high beams and i turn mine on and see those 6000k lighten in and then BAM they get smacked in the face with some pretty blue lights.
 
#21 ·
mclark18 and ace2790, so how did you guys do it.

share wif us, peas.