Probably the best way to wire in a trailer harness is to buy the jumper style connector and install it. DON'T cut ANY wires.
If you look under your truck at the left rear of the frame, you'll see a plug that connects the tailights to the harness. This 'jumper' plug goes in between the to ends of the tailight harness plug and has the necessary wiring and trailer light plug to do the job. They're about $20, and are plug and play.
You can buy them on Ebay, any trailer outlet or most of the parts supermarkets.
It makes the job a 'pro' install, and there is no wire hacking involved. There is one white wire that has to be grounded to the frame, but it's still pretty easy.

The 'clacking' is a whole other issue. Do you mean rapping? Rattling?

Which engine do you have? What weight oil did you use? How many miles on the engine? Does it do this every time you start the engine? Oil pressure gauge or idiot light?

 

Probably the best way to wire in a trailer harness is to buy the jumper style connector and install it. DON'T cut ANY wires.
If you look under your truck at the left rear of the frame, you'll see a plug that connects the tailights to the harness. This 'jumper' plug goes in between the to ends of the tailight harness plug and has the necessary wiring and trailer light plug to do the job. They're about $20, and are plug and play.
You can buy them on Ebay, any trailer outlet or most of the parts supermarkets.
It makes the job a 'pro' install, and there is no wire hacking involved. There is one white wire that has to be grounded to the frame, but it's still pretty easy.

The 'clacking' is a whole other issue. Do you mean rapping? Rattling?

Which engine do you have? What weight oil did you use? How many miles on the engine? Does it do this every time you start the engine? Oil pressure gauge or idiot light?

What he said regarding the light harness plug! I used it on mine, took maybe 5 min (mostly to drill the ground) and...voila!

 

Thanks
Mad max ,sorry it has the 2.8,i have been useing 5-30..,260,000 miles,no problems with oil psi,or idiot lights,i guess it is a rattling sound kinda like no oil metal to metal sound for a few seconds.just started this after a oil change and yes everytime it has been off for a couple of hours or so.

 

If you shut the truck off and wait say 5 minutes and turn the engine back on, does it still make that tapping noise then fade? If it doesn't and only does it after the truck has been sitting for awhile then sounds like lifters knocking for a few seconds until the oil gets to them.

I had this problem because of a cheap oil filter (well the design anyways). I used to use AC Delco PF52 but they changed to a cheap design called "E-Core" which they take out the anti-drain back valve and use plastic inner supports rather than metal. It has the product number PF52E now. Many other brands use that crappy "E-Core" design. But its the lack of the anti-drain back valve thats the problem as it doesn't keep a good amount of oil in the filter to help with dry starts.

I personally switched to Purolator filters as they still use the old never fail design I'm used to which has the valve. Before the switch the lifters would knock for a few secs then stop from dry start. Try it next oil change.

 

Ok ,i will thanks.
What do you think about useing full synthetic mobil 1 for cars over 75000 miles?my truck has 276000 m.would it hurt?so it is because of oil filter that causes this brief tapping sound on start up?

 

The oil filter could be a very probable cause if it acts like I mentioned above. As for oil, I personally use Valvoline MaxLife which is a synthetic blend.

 

Try substituting a Qt of Lucas Oil Stabilizer for your next oil change. It seems to work pretty well.

 

Ok thank you