My question is how does the insurance company know so much about the truck? In 2008 I was 17 or 18 and I drove a 75 camaro, v8. I had no issues with insurance it was like 160 month but I has a wreck and a speeding ticket on my record. But another option are the in line 6. They are cheap and already carbed. I've seem some guys on here do that swap.

Edit note. I would like it to be known the wreck was. Not my camaro it was a junk Lincoln Town car that had bad brakes it was totaled.

 

My question is how does the insurance company know so much about the truck? In 2008 I was 17 or 18 and I drove a 75 camaro, v8. I had no issues with insurance it was like 160 month but I has a wreck and a speeding ticket on my record. But another option are the in line 6. They are cheap and already carbed. I've seem some guys on here do that swap.

Edit note. I would like it to be known the wreck was. Not my camaro it was a junk Lincoln Town car that had bad brakes it was totaled.

I have a 250 InLine 6 from 1968. I know a couple of guys getting 300+ out of them but I don't think it would fit under the hood? It looks like the 1st cyl would be just behind the grill with no room for a rad?

 

Unfortunately around here it has become standard operation for the insurance company to send a rep to your house and take pictures in/out of your vehicle before they issue insurance.

Up to a few years ago guys were actually pulling there V8 and putting in a "stand in" V6 for the insurance company but the companies caught on and any wrecks that had a V8 and not a V6 (where they insured with a V6) the insurance companies dropped the claims and refused to cover insurance. There was a few law suits too for insurance fraud... (which I don't think is the right label for a guy who insures a car with a V6 and then put in a V8)

They are stupid tough around here in the last couple of years and it is only getting worse....

 

I pay $130 month for (me & wife) to drive both a 2014 caravan & a 2007 Saturn Ion. (oh the agony of getting old!!)

I pay $150yr on classic insurance for a 1974 dart sport. (but I am extremely limited in when and where I can drive it)

The insurance company wants $350/month for my 17yr old son (clean record) to be a partial driver on the Saturn Ion.... almost ready to tell him to buy a 12spd Huffy.

 

Must be due to state laws and such. Has he taken any driver safety courses or anything. That dropped my insurance a good bit when I was younger. I don't know if you are able to get with usaa but I know for a fact they are the best for teen drivers because I remember state Farm insurance quoted me for like 600 something on the camaro.

 

He's in a different country. Things are a lot different in Canada.

 

Yeah... a few more stupid laws and you guys are going to have to direct me to the local immigrations office! lol.

I am in Windsor Ontario Canada (about 5mins north of Detroit)

 

So that 98 4.3L is looking pretty good. Edelbrock sells a Performer intake for it to convert to Carb. Holley sells a 500cfm 2brl carb.
Anyone know the size of the valves in the head? and is this still an even fire engine?

 

Well I didn't know that. By the way i think astro van came with a carb and I know almost all the 4.3 marine motors are carbed. Or you could use one of thesehttp://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/manifolds/chevy/performer-v6.shtml withhttp://m.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2065?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw876oBRCYr86w6KGfpkgSJAACIidw72AronigycNZGyykNZruRmSP7LoJMhojR8BM1hP7MxoC-k7w_wcB plus you will need to find vacuum dizzy

 

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/87-2dr-w-inline-250-a-581025/#/forumsite/20875/topics/581025 it's been done. Search the forum you can find more write ups on it.
The 2.5l also can be carbed and it's good on gas... but weak mad max has a carbed 2.5 I think he also has a diesel 4.3.

There is a rb25det s10 out there... it's crazy looking with all his body mods...

 

4.3 roller Cams suck!!! maybe a 3.8L would be a better choice....but it is a Buick engine.... rather have Chevy...

 

Turbo 3.8? While Buick, it wouldn't be *too* bad, as Chevy used it in the Monte (purity wise). 4.3 would definitely be easier.

 

I think the Vortec would make a better choice. The intake would prolly be easier to find too, and you can get aftermarket HEI distributors. I didn't know they broke it down to 2 or 4 bbl for insurance out there, that's crazy.

 

Getting US citizenship might be just as easy as an engine swap with our current leadership... haha.. but it real comes down to what you want and what you can afford. Maybe get him a Vespa or one other the 30 cc gas motors to put on a bike.

 

Lol... we have a ton of E bikes out here! I'd like to run them all over but that's just me...

Yeah... I'm thinking that 1998 (because I am going carb) is not the right choice. The roller cam selection sucks and is $$$. the balance shaft is also still bothering me. I am sure it will cause trouble if I have the engine rebalanced with new rods, pistons....

I loved the 250 InLine 6... I just wonder how it will handle? and it still will not look stock. I had one in a 68 skylark (from a chevelle) that had plenty of power. We have a guy in town that has raced them for many years in a 64 chevy nova wagon. 15yrs ago he was pulling low 12s all day and I know he has improved the car over the years as he has had to make several upgrades to keep it track legal.

I am not sure about the insurance company rep actually being able to identify a 4brl carb from a 2brl... my thoughts are kinda focused of keeping it looking stock... that includes emissions... so far they only have to be on the car and not actually working....kinda like our government!

 

So the 98 motor is back in consideration. I have run across an article that shows how to remove the balance bar and plug the oil feeds.
Pros are that the heads are better flowing.
Con is a $600 cam shaft, but I should be able to reuse the lifters. I wonder if the timing set is the same as the older blocks with the balance shaft removed?

I definately want to go 4.3L (although the 250 inline was definately cool)

As long as I don't run across any other show stoppers I'll pick up the 1998 4.3L this weekend.

 

Also is 0.030 over the max on these blocks? I'm thinking hypertec flat tops with 4 valve relief. probally shave heads to get comp. ratio 9:1 I don't want to cross 9.5:1 as I still want to run it on pump gas.

 

Just throwing it out there... companies make obd2 simulators that will pass smog inspections... I've even seen some go as far as to make a chip..

 

Several considerations for the 4.3...

No transmission change required - same bell housing bolt pattern as the 350
Bolts right in place of the 350
The accessories bolt in place too
You can connect the current exhaust
You can use the same radiator
You can sell the 350...
They sell headers for the 4.3 Cheap.
Carb is easy.
Distributor is also easy
You can bolt the vortec heads on an earlier block

Probably the easiest swap to do.

Oh, and I would not recommend the Holley 500. It will SUCK gas. It is calibrated for a V8, although it will work on the 4.3, but I will bet that it will produce a pretty good bog off idle.
I ran one on a Ford 200 CID straight 6 in a '71 Maverick - after I milled off the main part of the carb mount (integral intake manifold) and fabbed a 2 barrel plate. It was crappy off the line, but allowed the engine to rev pretty good. It also had a pretty decent bog.

The best carb for this engine would probably be a 390 Holley. It's calibrated for smaller displacement engines and will probably be alot better for fuel mileage.

Post pics!!

BTW, 39 is not old.

 

Thanks for the info I will look into the 390 holley.

39 is not old for most...I think my problem is the miles.... Been a long haul...lol.

I will post pics. soon. I am still getting everything in place.
I have decided on the 4.3L swap. Just trying to land on a year. The 98 I am looking at is really clean...so it is hard to pass up. just don't like the balance bar and the roller cam...
I just finished building an 87 305 TPI Iroc and the Roller cam was a huge pain and expensive as hell. The TPI has $6000 in the build and still runs like crap. Faulty sensors, bad wiring, 6 MAS air flow sensors, injector failures, ECM/PC failures..... we just swapped it over to Carb set-up. It is running a lot better. But the new distributor vacuum advance does not seem to stay adjusted... it is a cheapy MSD variant... so might be replacing the guts on it.

Either way that is another story... needless to say I do not want to go down that path again. So I am leery of the limitations with the roller motor.

 

The truck has been around for awhile it has been a track racer for many years. It was a 12s truck with a 400sbc.
They guy I bought it off of ran 14s with a 350 in it. It still has the 4:11 posi so gas will probably suck no matter what I do.

I originally wanted to run a 327 or 283 in it... but maybe I'll get back to that idea in a couple of years.

I also have my high school car (1977 dodge Aspen R/T) going back on the road this year. I hope we can do a tour to the Kawarthas this summer to do some camping.

Me in the Aspen, my son in the S10, my dad in his YJ and my brother in his Iroc. A 3 generation tour! lol

 

Three generations is pretty impressive...

Yeah, I know a little about miles... If I could crash and burn... I did.
Now i'm paying for it.
A ton of years of full contact skiing didn't help much either.
Seems like racing did a number on me along with contact with trees, moguls and anything else I could hit. :haha:

 

If you can get 2-4.3s for $250 why not get them both? You could pull the heads off the vortec, machine them for studs and guide plates if you want and a valve job. You could probably sell the vortec short block and intake system for cash for the other parts you need. You don't have to run a roller cam in a roller block, just make sure the flat tappet isn't for a 200/229 engine. I'm not sure if the lifters are the same as sbc, my 229 used different ones.