Were the fuses checked visually or with a meter? Sometimes the fuses can 'look' OK, but actually be faulty. How did you test the relay? Here's a link for the electrical schematics - see pages 45 & 46:

2000 - Google Drive

drive.google.com

 

I tested both the relay and fuses with a meter

 

How were you testing them? Were you actually messing with wiring or were you just seeing if they worked? (The mirrors i mean)

 

I was messing around with the wiring at the switch. Power and ground is good. Ground is 2.2 ohms

 

If the door locks worked prior to your messing around, you obviously wiggled something you should not have.
Have you tried the other door switch? Do the locks not lock or if locked do they not unlock? Or neither? What relay did you test? The power locks have 3 relays in the body relay block up behind the headlight switch. You have to access it from underneath.
BTW mir/lks fuse under the hood is for both locks and mirrors. Only trucks that came originally from the factory with power mirrors and locks have this fuse. Depending on year and model it's either 3A or 5A.

 

I’ve tested all relays related to the system and neither door lock button does anything

 

Go through where you were messing with the wiring. Something had to have gotten unplugged or broken when you were in there. Make sure everything is plugged in good, something coulda got bumped. Also make sure that, if there are any spots that are crimped together (even the connectors), the wire is still connected good. They can loosen over time.

Edit: Is there a way to test door locks? If so, try seeing if the door locks are still good. I don't think they would of just quit like that though.

Also, do the door locks and power mirrors not work on both sides?

 

neither side works, before the locks died, just remebered i would lock them with the button and they would unlock themselves

 

When did your mirrors stop working? Was it a similar situation or did they just stop? I think the problems may be related... dont both of them come from the same fuse?

 

You say you tested all relays, did you check the one in the body relay block? Did you check the under hood fuse I showed above?
This will help you find and diagnose the BRB (see #7 in the schematic)

Body relay block location, removal & schematic - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

Lighting & Electrical - Body relay block location, removal & schematic - When I was searching for information on what relays are in the body relay block, I came across numerous threads asking about its location and how to get it out. I figured since my dash is out I'd take a few pictures showing...

blazerforum.com

 

i have checked it, but i will double check later today. also the fuse checked out to be good

 

To add to ODS link regarding Body Relay Block (also known as Body Bussed Electrical Center), this link shows how to remove it without removing the dash:

Body Relay Block, BRB Removal (2nd Gen) - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

Lighting & Electrical - Body Relay Block, BRB Removal (2nd Gen) - Hi all, I thought I'd make a contribution to the knowledge base regarding how to get at the Body Relay Block (BRB). This knowledge came about from a wild goose chase I was in an attempt o deal with a driver side door lock that was...

blazerforum.com

 

UPDATE: the power door locks came back yesterday after retesting and locating a blown fuse. however, the exterior mirrors are still not operable

 

Mirrors are usually a bad switch. Or the motors, but both rarely go at the same time.

 

Potentially a bad ground?

 

It's an S10. Grounds are always a probable cause of any electrical issue.

 

😆 that’s what I will check next