this is the wiring diagram on Viar's website: http://www.viaircorp.com/OnRoad/Schematics/dualc_wd.pdf

I believe those are 38 amps total, meaning 19 amps each.

4 gauge from battery to block.
8 gauge from block to relay. (10 gauge is probably fine though, but I prefer 8)
8 gauge from relay to compressor. (10 gauge is probably fine though, but I prefer 8)

And I'd go with a 50 Amp fuse between the battery and the block.
And of course you need the 2 relays.

 

Alright. Well I don't think this dude was even running relays cuz I'm serious about how hacked his truck was. Lol. I was looking at the diagram and figured that would be the best way but minus the pressure switch. I'll figure out how much all this stuff is gonna be and let him know.

 

Yep like Xtuckig said

Btw you can pick up a 30-40 amp relay at just about any parts store for a couple bucks.

I'd highly recommend a p-switch.Dont want them compressors getting away an voiding warranty.

You could use the location of the pull nob switch.But switch to a on/off switch.An use that as a on/off switch for the compressors (the wire that goes to the pressure switch to power it)

 

Or in tothner words off of that link posted above .where it says "keyed power source" just throw that on/offswitch between that an your ignition

 

Well it was complicated because the wiring ran from the top screw terminal of the battery (Optima red top) straight back to the distribution block that split to the compressors. But even after the wire had ripped off and shorted, the compressors still came on. And yeah I know, but this dude probably isn't even gonna have the money to pay for the wiring and airline, so I dunno what he's gonna do. He said he's had it 6 months and had to buy the new compressors cuz the old ones didn't work, so I'm assuming he just let them sit there and run and burnt them out. But like I said, this dude's wiring, well whole truck in general, is so hacked I don't know what is what, so at this point I am starting to question whether I should even do it for him at the risk of something else getting f*cked up if I pull a wrong wire or something and him starting shit with me. Lol.

I'm over dealing with trucks like these, so I'm probably gonna just keep my truck and do everything right so I stop getting offered hacked pieces of shit and know it's dependable. Haha

 

It's really pretty easy to wire it tho.But do what ou gotta do.

But from thom the soulds of things this cat should have nothing to do w/ any thang air or electric for that matter.Shit i'd really honesty take parts wise under a bill to get it straightened out.But hey its his chit so what ever

 

That's what I thought when I met him. Very first thing I saw was how bad the frame was cracked and how bad all the welds were on the whole truck. And the upper bar xmember was crooked at the weld, so it looked like it had snapped in half once before. The upper bar was crazy tho because it was literally maybe a foot and a half from the top of the axle to the crossmember, so it was extremely short and is probably what caused the frame to crack with all that pressure in such a small area, but it really looked like 1 more good sized pothole or dropping it once to drag was going to take the whole rear end off. I didn't want to be the dick and tell him he got royally f*cked because the Honda he traded for it was really clean and he put alot of money into it, just to get a complete pile of shit in return just because he didn't know what he was doing.