S-10 Forum banner

Ruff Warm Starts

5.4K views 39 replies 3 participants last post by  FugueStatedL43  
#1 ·
So its 100 degrees here, its hot for sure. When I cold start the truck (in the morning) its fine starts right up. When I go to lunch from work it struggles to start (cold start). Then when I am done with my lunch and head back to the office it struggles to start again (engine warm). I am not sure what to think it is...crankshaft position sensor or some other sensor?
 
#2 ·
I would think heat sheild on the starter solenoid is missing, a friends 2.2L has that problem when they get done driving cuz the starter is gettin too hot, that or maybe the starter is just going out, could work great at times others its just slow
 
#3 ·
So how tough is it to replace a starter in the thing? I figured that might be the news I would get. Any relative ideas on cost? I have a subscription to alldatadiy so instructions should be easy to come by. Any thoughts before I try and replace the thing? Anything else it could be?
 
#6 ·
I guess if I would google it...

Removal & Installation
2-Wheel Drive - 2.2L Engine
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable Front exhaust pipe, if necessary for access Starter heat shield, if equipped Brace rod from the front of the engine and the bell housing Drivers side wheel to access the starter motor wires and the starter motor attaching bracket-to-engine bolt through the opening in the wheel well Wires from the starter solenoid Attaching bracket-to-engine mount bolt Starter-to-engine block bolts. When removing the last bolt, be sure to support the starter to keep it from falling and possibly injuring you. Starter and shims (if equipped) from the vehicle Bracket from the starter assembly, if equipped

Image


Fig. Starter motor and related components - 2.2L engine

To install:
Install or connect the following:
Bracket to the starter, if removed. Tighten the bracket nuts to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Starter and shims (if equipped) into position in the vehicle and thread one of the retaining bolts to hold it in position. Bracket-to-engine mount bolt (loosely), if equipped Starter mounting bolt, then tighten all mounting fasteners to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) Wiring to the solenoid Brace rod and tighten the retainers Front exhaust pipe and tighten the fasteners, if removed Starter heat shield, if equipped Driver-s side wheel, if removed Negative battery cable
 
#7 · (Edited)
i found it to be a royal pain in the d*ck to replace the start on a friends 94 s-10 2.2L he had a larger starter style and wow i had to jack up the engine and remove a whole bunch of parts and all the engine to tranny braces and i had to mangle the starter brace bracket and cut the starter wires couldnt get to them and wow.....
what a nightmare

replaced the 2.2L in a 2001 s10 recently and it was way simpler and wa s asmaller style starter and wow....

like completely different totally.

i will never swap an early 2.2l starter ever again......

never!

is yours just not wantintg to crank or what?

battery volts low?

should read about 14 on the guage when running if its ok

if its cranking fine then check fuel pressure and remove and clean the IAC and check the EGR make sure its closing all the way

also check for loose spark plugs, i just went through a 2.2L on a 96 s10 a girlf friend of another friend of mine owns and one of her plugs was totally loose i saw it shaking loose plain as day as it was sitting running... and her IAC was totally carboned up
it was having a hard time starting and was running rough

i did these few things to it now it starts right up and runs good
i also increased idle speed with the screw on the throttle unit
 
#8 ·
Since i just got the truck I have done a couple things I know to do right off. I have replaced the plugs two nights ago with NGK Iridiums and swapped out the oil for a much nicer oil (IMO of course), and cleaned up the engine bay. I am looking to get a new battery all together since I do not like diehard batteries, looking to install an optima (red top or yellow top, whichever fits).

I am going to have the charging system checked...it normally fires right up though and the charging systems seems strong but could be misleading.
 
#13 ·
BTW...on the starter...where would the heat shield be located? If it is just the heat shield that it would be useless to replace the whole thing. Does the starter come with the heat shield? Is there a part number for the heat shield? I can't seem to locate the part at all on any website.
 
#15 ·
The heat shield goes around the starter solenoid, am not sure of the part #, with changing the filter it wont hurt to change it, if you have the cash and want to do it, go for it, I'm not too sure on the symptoms of it starting to go bad, I know when it is bad though,
 
#16 ·
Ya I went ahead and changed it out, the fuel filter that is (it was 10 bucks), the problem is still there but I had someone test my starter and listen to it and they said its definitely working and the charge system is charging at 13.84V and ever so slightly lower on full load...so thats ok. The system also said my car was cranking normally but it takes 3 seconds to start...which I think thats a tad long right? Or is it normal for these trucks to do that?
 
#18 ·
I wouldn't doubt if they are goin out, but I don't want to say try it cuz those are qiute expensive, my truck is starting a little slow so I think that might be normal, I'm not sure its always done that
 
#20 ·
get under it while its running and you can "feel" for the leak, check the flange before the cat, probably that one
 
#23 ·
yeah, its on the passenger side of the engine, you can get to it by lifting that dust flap on the inside of the wheel well. It should be right below and to the left of the oil pressure regulator, and I beleive its held in with one 10mm bolt if I remember correctly
 
#25 ·
I'd jack it up uncer the engine crossmember then use jack stands under each control arm and keep the jack under the crossmember, thats the safest way to go, actually, you can jack it up under the spindle, then put a jack stand under the frame,by the rocker panel, either way would work but I'd use the first option
 
#27 ·
ok, hope that fixes it
 
#28 ·
DEAR GOD, that thing is hard to get out...its like it was heated and fused into the engine block!!! I had to drill 4 holes in it to be able to twist it and get it out, aside from wd-40ding the thing like crazy to set it free.

Problem though, when I tried to remove the electrical plug my hand was caught and jerked the wires clean out of the the connector housing. I have tried 4 different ways to re-insert the wires but the car will just not fire now. I know its because the wires are all jacked now. Where can I get another connector??? This is my daily driver so I need to get this fixed asap.
 
#29 ·
Well got the connector today it was a bunch of money. That all aside, the new sensor did not correct the starting issue. I am still having issues today. I am running out of ideas. I am going to try and call a GMC service tech to see if they have heard of anything or might know what it is. Any other thoughts on it?
 
#31 ·
you should be able to get a new pigtail through NAPA or autozone, I think if the battery has enough power to turn it over, then it should have enough to power the injectors, I could be wrong, I would replace it anyways, I end up changing my battery every 6 years or so,
 
#32 ·
Talked to a GMC service tech yesterday and he said to replace the coolant temperature sensor, he said since it happens mostly when it is hot outside it could be a bad sensor giving the ECU the wrong temperature and not giving the car enough fuel to start right away. Its an inexpensive fix I am going to look into, but i plan to replace it along with doing the e-fan.
 
#36 ·
Put it in, so far my starter hasn't acted up so it might be working let ya know if it comes back
 
#38 ·
I would, it seems to be working good so far
 
#39 ·
Well I replaced mine yesterday (easiest thing I have done so far), but it hasn't solved my issues. I talked with a mechanic today and he has a 01 Sonoma but the bigger engine. He said his started doing it the other day as well...same as mine.

He recommended changing all my vacuum hoses that maybe the engine (since it is hot outside) is not creating enough vacuum because it is hot and the hoses could be cracked in small places. The heat causes the hoses to expand and the cracks to loose vacuum.

I am going to give it a shot and see what happens. Should be another inexpensive trial. Does anyone have a schematic of all the vacuum hoses on a tutu?
 
#40 ·
Hmm, I have all brand new vaccuum lines on my truck (3months old) I'm a check my hoses see if any are loose, I havent changed the vaccuum line for my air injection pump so that might be whats causing it, Ill post back when its done