I would not flush a compressor that has been open, most likely not worth the problems. I would replace it. Considering you can by a reman one for around $100. The condenser is one of those type things too. If you can find one from a sealed system a used one is not a bad idea to keep down the costs. While it was a part I would flush any remaining pieces. You should also replace the orfice tube usually about $2.

Flushing is area of great conversation. I usually use mineral spirits with LOW pressure air. There are several AC flush solvents as well. With a open system flush at least twice. If you are replacing the condenser you have 50% of the hassle beat.
And yes you plan sound rights adding the orifice tube.

 

Forgot about the orifice tube, but that's definitely part of the accumulator replacement. They're dirt cheap.

 

You might consider replacing the pressure switch on the accumulator, as most of the 1 gen s-10's i have ever worked on the pressure switch was flakey / bad. As i recall they are around $10

 

Oy yeah, the pressure switch on most first gens can be replaced with the system under pressure, without gas loss, or at least very little loss.

 

sorry to hijack your thread mr mekon but i was wondering if 944v8indfw could elaborate a little on the pressure switch and its flakyness maybe symptoms, issues

thanks mia

 

symptom for me on maybe the 5 i have replaced

AC would not come on with the dash switch hot or cold with power to the switch

AC would cycle until high side pressure got over about 160

AC would "hammer cycle" with defrost in 30 degree hammer cycle = turn on and off dozens of times a minute

AC would not run when outside temp was over 90 when the truck had not been started would only run if you tapped the switch

Keep in mind these were all on other wise healthy AC systems

A "dirty" way to check the high pressure switch it un plug it and jump the 2 leads with a short piece of wire with a couple spade connectors on it. If the AC is charged (checked with a guage set) and cycles funny or not at all use the jumper method test. There should be 12 volts to the light green wire when the AC is on, engine running or not, with key on and AC switch on.

Sometimes on a 100% empty system I will jump the pressure switch after putting in at least 12 - 16 oz of 134 to speed up the process.

 

hope that helps I am not a AC expert just have the ability and tools to do my own and of course my buddies if they bring a sixer of import

 

here's what mine like to do, it will come on and run and blow colder than a well diggers ass for anywhere from 10 minutes to 30 then the compressor cuts out and usually wont come on for the rest of the hour drive home but the next day it will do the same thing.

its a stock 91 system that's been converted to run r134a

any thoughts you might have would be appreciated

again apologies to mr mekon

 

You guys do know that those older style pressure switches are usualy adjustable. There is a screw between the two prongs for the plug. I have never really had a "flakey" pressure switch. The most problems I run into are the later switches leaking. Not the O-ring for them but the switch itself.

Phantom
When that happens have you checked for power at the clutch and pressure switch? Back probe the relay. Maybe its weak and gets hot then wont hold any longer.

 

I'm trying to figure out what wiring I need since nothing runs to the compressor. They Haynes manual schematic shows the A/C switch on the dash goint to an Evaporator Control Switch, then an A/C High Pressure Cutout Switch, then the compressor. Where are those two switches?

edit: I know the pressure switch on the accumulator. Is that what it's talking about?

 

The cycling or low pressure switch will be on the accumulator/dryer. There may also be a high pressure switch on the back of the compressor. I don't know what year truck you have or when they were put in S10's. My 91 and my brother's 90 Camaro have a pressure switch on the compressor.

Look up a diagram on autozone.com. May be of more help than your haynes.

Oops
I should have put they may be refering to the switch on the accumulator as the evap switch and the high pressure cut out on the compressor.

 

I'm having a similar problem.Just bought my 96 Sonoma and dealer Just replaced the old compressor (bad clutch) with a used one. Recharged it and it blow ice cold for a hour ride home. However truck cutout on me once and then would run really shitty bucking and sputtering when i hit the gas hard on that hour ride home. Got code P0137, and P0171 which 137 is low voltage o2 sensor. P171 is adaptive system lean fuel cleared codes and truck ran great. Then went to turn A/c back on and it wouldnt kick. Getting pissed I mashed the gas and drove hard for a few mins and a/c kicked on and blew ice cold then kicking on and off getting hot and cold . It seemed to blow cold only when i was getting on the throttle. Then it starts working consistantly for a few mins but gave me severe powerloss to the point it started bucking and sputtering and then finally cutting out. Starting it back up and turning ac off the truck ran great again!!

In my few mins talking with the guy who changed and charged the ac I got a feeling he doesnt know to much. Is it possible he didnt charge it correctly? To much pressure ? Could this be a electrical problem within the compressor or just a flaky high pressure valve??

All feedback much appreciated.
Thanks

 

LOL, sure tell them the wrong way of capturing the R12.........
A/C oil, you meen PAG oil.............

Your full of great info in atlleast two old threads tonight.......