You have trouble with water pump seals?

I go to the parts store, ask for seals, sometimes they don't list them, so i get some for a small block chevy. Make sure the mounting surfaces are clean, i usualy use a razor blade. Then, i coat the seal front and back with RTV. Then i use permatex #2 on the threads. Torque to about 33ft-lbs. I think this is how the haynes manual says to do it, but i haven't had to re-do it.

 

Last thing... Does anyone know a sure fire way of getting water pump seals to stay....I went through a million sets on my suburban and they just wouldn't hold, now the first set i put on the truck were fine, this time... its been like 10 miles and the water is just running out of it...

i filled mine up with coolant yesterday and it was leaking like a fawcet when it hit a certain level. i'll have to tear the front of the motor apart to try to find the leak on monday. looks like its another week for the truck. i'll be doing exactly what rat said this time

 

clean both surfaces with a razor blade. Don't use rtv its crap use copper coat to glut the gaskets to the pump or the block. You don't have to put it on both sides of the gasket, but you can if you want. The important thing is to keep the gaskets lined up so they don't fall out. not sure about the touque spec but tight always works for me.

 

HA i'm online, and if you could see where i am right now you would know what a challenge that is, lol. I am covered in mud, just got out of a cave which i spent the entire morning in, now i'm sitting ontop a freaking mountain in pa to get digtal express signal to get online lol...,

Now for the water pump seals, i have tried on my 350 suburban i used to have
dry
sprayed with red rtv
black RTV
dry again with oiling around them...
and torqued them right every time

2 new water pumps
new fan
new fan clutch
new bolts

and finaly we sold it at 100k to pickup the new crew cab 4x4 duramax

On the s10 though (because i think the 350's surface was actually messed up)
last time i put them in dry and ran it for like 1000 miles no problems and seemed like they would have held longer but then we tore it apart to do the timing cover.. this last time he put them in dry. It seems like it impossible its got this bad of a leak this quick unless a gasket it folded or missing entirely though...

I'll see tommorow morning heading home from camp tonight, the camp got flooded and most of the kids gear got soaked so were calling it early..

 

Alright, Water pump seals are in, !!!! coper RTV stuff , a set of good looking felpro's and about 33 ft lbs, also i completly dryed everything, got the water out of the block to make sure it didn't mess anything up. And then i let it setup for couple hours before i finished putting it back togher and put water in it.

I think its going to hold fine this time, it looked like the old gaskets just got drenched before they were tight enough to hold water it that makes sense...

Anyways while all this was going on i also ran my nylon lines for the meth injection found the drain hole was just big enough to get the hose through, then i took my tank and steel i picked up over to growns10's (ben, aka one eye)'s house so he could cut it all accurate and square so it doesn't look like hell. Killer job, so now i've got a stack of steel 1x2,1x1,1x.25, ready for a ton of welding to hold the 8 gallon tank and pump in the bed. I'll post pics when i get it done... should be pretty awesome, or at least i hope it will be.

 

Hey also, I guess my brakes are almost done or done, and Ed said he might be back to post some pics of the setup on here, can't wait to get my hands on those!

They were supposed to ship out tommorow morning but for some reason it wouldn't let me ship out overnight until tuesday and they are closed on sundays to call and ask why.. so i just said screw it i have to work all day i'll just have to wait till wed to get them.

 

Alright i got some pics of the meth water tank and pump setup i built. I wanted to mount a bigger tank in the bed so i didn't have to mess with it on long trips, keep the meth cooler in the bed and add a little weight back their.. etc and mount the pump back their since they can only pull about 8 feet but can push with high pressure for like 20-25 or better...

So here a pic of the frame all welded up and getting ground down, and pics of all of it just sitting on it. I have since cleaned everything up, sanded, primed and painted all of that and its drying when its done i'll start drilling and tapping all the holes etc to mount the tank and pump and plating on and mounting it to the bed.

Also those are rough cell phone pics lol better then nothing ... I'll post some good ones once its mounted.

 

Alright i got the brakes today !!!!!!

How awesome they looks amazing, The calipers are so big its unreal.

Starting to tear into it, with any luck i'll have them done tommrowo between work and school or if shaun starts working on it.

The meth injection is almost done still.... just spent like 2 hours messing around drilling and tapping holes for all that diamond plate and brackets and crap... and figuring out placment in the truck. Also i'm stupid close to running out of hose, so i'm hoping it works out out.

More pics soon, Also the 8.5 is almost completly cleaned up, will probably get painted tommorow or friday and installed on Sat.!!!

 

hey brock, what's the part # for the earl fitting I'll need. I'm looking on summit and there are all kinds. I just bought the Walbro fuel pump kit, and am getting the Aeromotive fpr, gauge, and fitting all at the same time. Just let me know when you get a chance.

 

I'll have to look its from whatever size the port on the side of the FPR is to whatever the summit gauge you pick is, and get the 0-30psi gauge not the 15psi one or 60 psi one.

 

C5 brakes installed at of like 3 pm today, installing sway bar now, then trying to get the meth done... Then painting axle so i can instal it and the new disc brake setup on it tommorow.


Pics coming soon

 

Well Sway bars done energy end links done etc, then when we went to put everything back together we hadn't hooked up the brake lines yet, the fittings were wrong, the adapters,... Shauns out digging through parts bins at the local parts store trying to find one that will work, other then that, brakes are bolted on, pads in, etc etc even tried out the rim for sure and everything clears fine.


Meth install was rocking along until we hit our wiring wasen't long enough lol So need to pick up some wires and drill 1 hole in the intake and 4 in the bed and were finaly done with it... (i've been dragging my feat on this one...)

 

Alright, another update

As of today, the brakes are done, just needs to be bleed again and she is ready to rock.

The meth is installed, tank is all bolted in the bed etc etc,

Now just to mix things up... and another last minute shit load of work to get done...

Tonight i picked up..

New belltech drop leafs for the back to get rid of the drop blocks
Belltech Nitro drop shocks
Belltech 1" rear sway bar
Lakewood traction bars
Hawk LTS brake pads for the back
Fedral mougul rear rotors

So tommorow i rip it down to the frame in the back,
install the new axle, springs, shocks, sway bar, traction bars, brakes then a little tunning at WOT for the meth messing with the top end fuel and hopefully advancing the timing a bit and its freaking done !!!! 2 days before its gotta goto MI !!!!! lol

 

Hey does anyone know what rear end fluid my new axle takes?

Its a 2000 blazer 8.5 with G80 posi... I can't find it anywhere.

 

I'll have to look its from whatever size the port on the side of the FPR is to whatever the summit gauge you pick is, and get the 0-30psi gauge not the 15psi one or 60 psi one.

ah, oops. I got the 60 psi one. I guess I can send it back and get the other.

Did you look to see what size fitting? Thanks brock

 

the 60 psi one will work but its just not as easy to read because its got twice the numbers in the same size gauge.. its probably a hair less accurate just because of that but it will work the same if you wanted to just keep it.

 

the 60 psi one will work but its just not as easy to read because its got twice the numbers in the same size gauge.. its probably a hair less accurate just because of that but it will work the same if you wanted to just keep it.

Well, it would only cost me whatever shipping would be for the gauge is probably to get the other. You're right though, it will be easier to read. I still need to get the earl fitting, so I can get the other gauge while i'm ordering the fitting. Do you mind just checking your order history on summit to get me the right part number for the fitting? thanks

 

don't worry about the last post. i just called summit and they helped me out

 

Hey Brock, is it necessary that I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so when I install the new chip or is it just plug & play?

 

Hey matt sorry i've not been on here i was out at the road coarse all day, freaking crazy stuff their,

got to run agaist a 03 viper and later a Lt1 z28, i could make the lt1 camaro look retarded, on the straights i would put 20-30 cars on him then in the corners i had almost no body roll and had NO lifting from braking hard, so i could wait until the last brake marker listed and still stall a second before realling hitting those brakes.

anyways i lost a alt on the 400 mile trip here, the last 120 miles was on battery lol and to kick it off it was still reading 12.1 volts, after getting another alt i was still able to start the truck on that battery after running 1 headlight & wideband.

Long story short the new alt messed up belt alignment and i ate 2 belts, had two belts overnighted from the place i normaly order them and they had them to my room by 10am today, i fixed all that, changed my oil in autozone parking lot lol and i was on my way...

more later...

1/4 mile tommorow !!!!!!!!!!!!11

everyone is invited, lapeer dragway at 12pm....

 

hey brock, clear your pm's

 

Hey matt sorry i've not been on here i was out at the road coarse all day, freaking crazy stuff their,

got to run agaist a 03 viper and later a Lt1 z28, i could make the lt1 camaro look retarded, on the straights i would put 20-30 cars on him then in the corners i had almost no body roll and had NO lifting from braking hard, so i could wait until the last brake marker listed and still stall a second before realling hitting those brakes.

anyways i lost a alt on the 400 mile trip here, the last 120 miles was on battery lol and to kick it off it was still reading 12.1 volts, after getting another alt i was still able to start the truck on that battery after running 1 headlight & wideband.

Long story short the new alt messed up belt alignment and i ate 2 belts, had two belts overnighted from the place i normaly order them and they had them to my room by 10am today, i fixed all that, changed my oil in autozone parking lot lol and i was on my way...

more later...

1/4 mile tommorow !!!!!!!!!!!!11

everyone is invited, lapeer dragway at 12pm....

BROCK!!! where the hell are you at man!?

 

Workin on his turbo project

 

Hey hows it going,
Ya now i'm down in NC near outer banks in a 4x4 only area. Like freaking 15 mile drive in the sand and dunes to get to the house. Crazy stuff going on though, worked on the jeep for almost 12-14hrs solid finishing the hydroboost brakes and exhaust, then starting it (after 2 months of sitting) and the alternator is just knocking like a mofo... ran to good ol AZ and got number 5... 5th freaking brand new alt not rebuilt..and changing all the oils etc etc etc..

The freaking hydroboost was a mess, stuff leaking not holding pressure, we get that fixed can't get the hydrolics bleed right, finaly they seem OK we start working on bleeding the brakes... normaly a 15 min job,... like 2-3 hours of this thing just straight messing with us... i learned new stuff.. like the prop valve locks out one section of your brakes if your trying to bleed them and one sides got air and no pressure etc etc, i never realized how it worked until that night... then trying to center the piston with a scribe... finaly we got it snapped back to center and had to carefully bleed them..

So finaly we said piss on it and just drove it.. it was 230am we were supposed to leave at 6-7pm running way late so we left and for the first 400 miles i had SHIT for brakes... then out of the blue coming off the highway i hit the brakes it drops like 1 inch and goes to full lockup on my freaking 33x12.50s going like 55... i about shit.

So i get this thing out in the dunes i'm not off pavement for 1000 ft and i got to the side to let someone coming the other direction have the already made ruts going through the sand.. i cut into some water standing.. lol i hit this water doing 30-40 comes over the top of the car, i just downshift back to 2nd, can't see where i'm going trying to look out the sides.. but craps blowing in everywhere.. starts getting deeper as i'm going freaking 33in tires completly underwater... the last section i got a wave of water over the hood.. i've had this happen twice both times it got water in the ignition and ended up missing and running like hell for the rest of the day, thank god it kept running strong i had it to the floor freaking 220hp 300ftlbs inline 6 2nd gear and it was only turning like 2000rpms bogging through this shit.. but she pulled through it, water in the floors everyone coated in sand and water (windows down of coarse lol) and it went through about 150yards of water in sand.

Made it the other 10-12 miles in found our mile marker started looking for the house, started hearing something creeking whole time when its getting beaten around.. finaly stop and look, i blew through the freaking body where the mount is. Not a broken mount the body like shattered around it and body it now sitting on the frame on that side. So once the trucks running its kevlair + fiberglass body time maybe on a new Matkins frame.

The S10 status, the new motor will be done next week, still missing a couple big parts and thinking what im doing for fuel injecton and missing about 1000 dollars to finish it, but i'll make it. So were probably looking at 2-4 weeks and she should be up and running on the new PT60 turbo, all forged, 4 bolt billet, cryo'ed, balanced typhoon motor. MAYBE on true MPFI with either a syty computer or Accel DFI, holly 950.. something.. still in the works.

I'll get some videos of beating the living hell out of my jeep if i can. I usually get the thing off the ground jumping off freaking dunes about 20 times every year when i'm down here.. Also on a side note this is the jeeps 6th trip down here 2500-3000 miles in a 10 day period and 4x4'ed everyday for about 4-8hrs...

 

The S10 status, the new motor will be done next week, still missing a couple big parts and thinking what im doing for fuel injecton and missing about 1000 dollars to finish it, but i'll make it. So were probably looking at 2-4 weeks and she should be up and running on the new PT60 turbo, all forged, 4 bolt billet, cryo'ed, balanced typhoon motor. MAYBE on true MPFI with either a syty computer or Accel DFI, holly 950.. something.. still in the works.

Who are you having do the conversion?