The second pic was addressed to Brock. He was talking about disconnecting a brown wire that goes to the computer for the timing. There are multiple brown wires, so I'm asking him which one it is. I'm gonna go back down there and see if I can figure out where that knock sensor is. I have a bad feeling about this one... although at least now I know why I am getting the knock sensor code from the SES light.

Oh, that connector is not at the computer. It is down a ways, but still in the foot well.

 

Oh, that connector is not at the computer. It is down a ways, but still in the foot well.

So still in the foot well inside the cab near the computer? I'll look for it later.

Update:

Ok, I found one sensor on the left side of the block that was unplugged. I'm not sure what it was, but I plugged it back into the sensor, cleared the codes and ran the truck again. Now the only code I'm getting is for that knock sensor that doesn't have a home. Hopefully my friend can help me set the timing later today.

edit: Maybe I'm just not seeing where that one knock sensor should plug into. I remember brock saying something about having to maybe re-drill & tap locations for the knock sensors? Oy.

 

http://aldlcable.com/ ----- Sells the cables done

http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/pages.asp?id=24 --- Plans for the cable i used the two transistor setup the middle one with no problems.

Also the other best one..

Moats.net They have AWESOME stuff AWESOME people and he has a USB to ALDL cable, Its just nice to buy one with the ALDL fitting that just plugs in, i have two flat tab connectors ground down i stuff in... kinda sucks

Hope you get feeling better! I hate being sick..

I checked those sites out. It looks like the one on moates.net you need to buy two things...the aldl cable and the aldl to usb converter, which totals at about $80. It also looks like the aldlcable.com only sells the cable themselves, and then you have to buy some kind of adapter to go to usb, correct?

I finally found that brown cable ya'll were talking about. It was along side a big bundle of wires going to the computer. Only about 3 inchest of the wire was showing and the clip that it connects in was covered with tape, so it was hard to find. I'm probably going to take it to some place that has a timing light and get the timing set. Hopefully after that it will be running much better.

I still can't find the location where that knock sensor connector should be plugged into. There is one that plugs in on the left side of the block, but I can't find a place for this one. Will I need to get a whole drill & tapped for the one on the driver's side? The other thing of concern is that my temp gauge is starting at the wrong temp. When it fires up, it starts at 110. Any clue as to why?

 

I still can't find the location where that knock sensor connector should be plugged into. There is one that plugs in on the left side of the block, but I can't find a place for this one. Will I need to get a whole drill & tapped for the one on the driver's side? The other thing of concern is that my temp gauge is starting at the wrong temp. When it fires up, it starts at 110. Any clue as to why?

Stock you should have a knock sensor on the head. The '96 and up trucks moved that knock sensor down to the block. So, you have to find a new home for the sensor. It sounds like the shop didn't do this for you. I don't know what kind of threads are on the sensor, but you may have to have the head drilled and tapped for it. You can check to see if it will thread into a water passage, like the coolant drain plugs down on the block.

Somewhere in this thread brock said he had his head tapped for it. I don't remember if it said what threads were on it.

 

Stock you should have a knock sensor on the head. The '96 and up trucks moved that knock sensor down to the block. So, you have to find a new home for the sensor. It sounds like the shop didn't do this for you. I don't know what kind of threads are on the sensor, but you may have to have the head drilled and tapped for it. You can check to see if it will thread into a water passage, like the coolant drain plugs down on the block.

Somewhere in this thread brock said he had his head tapped for it. I don't remember if it said what threads were on it.

Yeah, looks like I'll have a head tapped for it. That's not too much of a big deal.

edit: There's a sensor on the left side of the block that looks like a knock sensor, so it's possible that they drilled and tapped for the left side but forgot the right. I dunno, I'll call them tomorrow to see what's up. I'm installing adjustable endlinks and the 170 degree thermostat today.

 

Hey brock, what all from the egr stuff did you remove? I see that they just plugged up one of the tubes that was for the egr, and another still goes to the tbi. If I can remove a few things without it causing a problem, that would be great. For some reason I'm still getting an IAC trouble code, but I could just have a leak somewhere. Perhaps you could just take a picture of the stuff you removed?

Timing will be set tomorrow since all shops were closed today. I'm just glad it's running good enough for me to drive around a bit. I pulled up next to an older trans am tonight at a red light and so wanted to give it a go. It was so tempting, but I would have been stomped...probably even with everything running tip top shape. Oh well, just wait till I get that supercharger

 

Well here is the problem, the hole was their for the temp sensor, but it wasen't for the knock sensor on the drivers side. So basicaly you needed a second hole for the knock sensor, the holes are tapped the same for the knock sensor and the temp gauge. I almost put the knock sensor in the temp hole and moved the temp sensor to the 2114 intake either from a spare hole in the front of the water jacket or just drilling one in, but that required cutting and extending the wire going to the temp gauge. And ontop of that the holes in the heads one of which (passenger side) is holding your knock sensor and the other side (currently holding your temp gauge) are not the same spot as the factory heads for the knock sensor, the knock sensor holes were on a lower spot. There MIGHT be 2 holes on each head if your really really lucky, but to this point i've only seen 2 holes on 1 truck that was a 96+ the rest have 1 hole.

So thats what your looking at right now, as far as the IAC i don't know why that would be acting up now, it might have just gone bad or somthing, but check the wiring incase they messed it up somehow.

 

now egr stuff, I have nothing, like the bracket holding all that crap, everything is gone. I only have a sensor that was in the side of the TBI and i only plugged it in so i had something to hold the adapter.

 

Well here is the problem, the hole was their for the temp sensor, but it wasen't for the knock sensor on the drivers side. So basicaly you needed a second hole for the knock sensor, the holes are tapped the same for the knock sensor and the temp gauge. I almost put the knock sensor in the temp hole and moved the temp sensor to the 2114 intake either from a spare hole in the front of the water jacket or just drilling one in, but that required cutting and extending the wire going to the temp gauge. And ontop of that the holes in the heads one of which (passenger side) is holding your knock sensor and the other side (currently holding your temp gauge) are not the same spot as the factory heads for the knock sensor, the knock sensor holes were on a lower spot. There MIGHT be 2 holes on each head if your really really lucky, but to this point i've only seen 2 holes on 1 truck that was a 96+ the rest have 1 hole.

So thats what your looking at right now, as far as the IAC i don't know why that would be acting up now, it might have just gone bad or somthing, but check the wiring incase they messed it up somehow.

So you had a second hole for the knock sensor drilled & tapped close to the temp sensor on the driver's side?

I checked the connector for the IAC. Besides the plastic clip and the plastic tubes around the connector prongs being broken, it looked like it was connected fine. I plugged it back in tightly to make sure it was in there.

This mornning it was a bit cold, around 45 degrees. The engine started up fine, but it was really bogging down. It actually stalled out once on the way to work. At least once I get the timing set this afternoon, that might be one less thing to trouble shoot. I'm also going to check the IAC valve to make sure it's not clogged up or anything and get an estimate on how much it's going to be to drill & tap for the knock sensor. *crosses fingers*

 

thats rough man, I only paid 15 bucks a hole to have mine drilled and tapped but that was by the machine shop and i just layed the heads on the counter and said i'll be back in a hour... In the truck... i would be tempted to say screw it, move the knock sensor on the drivers side to the hole you have the temp gauge in, then extend the temp gauge wire so you can put the temp gauge in the 2114 intake, did you end up putting plugs in any of the holes in the front of the 2114 in the water jacket their ? if you did you could just A. see if the temp gauge screws into that hole B. find a fitting at a plumbing store to screw in your temp gauge to that hole... thats the route i would go, then if you can't get it in any of those holes then get the 2114 drilled and tapped, ( i would be tempted to take the 2114 off to get it drilled and tapped) Then just screw in the temp sensor to the new hole, and leave install the knock sensor in the current hole in the side of the head.

 

Ok, just got back from the mechanic. They set my timing for $25, which isn't too bad considering the timing light at advanced cost $65. The truck runs a LOT better now, but it's still not running really great. There's still a little hesitation, and it still backfired once when I got into it on a hill in a lower gear. I was a little disappointed, but at least now there's one more thing out of the way.

The next thing on my list is to figure out why the IAC is still not functioning properly. Is it going to be a pain in the rear to change it out? I haven't checked the valve yet to see if it needs to be cleaned, but I will when I get the chance. I think I'll just worry about the knock sensor at a later time if I'm going to need more work done. It's not pinging or knocking right now, so it's not really needed...yet.

After figuring out the IAC, I'll start datalogging. Just gotta buy the cable soon.

 

Did he tell you what the timing was after the computer was hooked back up, roughly? And also did he set the timing to 0 ?

the knock sensor can be disabled, but its a handy tool, only because in order to try and up the power your going to need to advance the timing and thats when you run into trouble with knocking and pinging and its nice to have the knock sesnors. Also your truck is probably running a little retard over stock right now because he likes to start off safe before he starts cranking them up, which is perfect you don't want your chip to mess up your truck before you get it tuned right. Just get the ALDL cable, you can make one from aldlcable.com ( http://www.home.aone.net.au/~techedge/vehicle/2tran.gif ) and parts list ( http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/pages.asp?id=25 ) or buy one from that AKS or whatever brian at tbi chips uses or get moats, his is kinda the best deal seeing how it handles the com port to usb emulation and compatibility itself and has the real ALDL cable end on it.

The back firing could be from a couple things, more than likley its lean, and when you get it on a hill or under load its not getting enough fuel, with the FIRST datalog brian could get you in the ball park and he does great work fine tunning from their.

No worries you will get it nailed down.

 

On a side note, i just went junk yard shopping at a local truck only yard to find a rear sway bar off somthing a little closer then a blazer... no luck their but i did manage to score a 02 monster 1.33" (33mm) front sway bar off of a 2wd blazer well jimmy sle with the lowered suspension option like the Zq8's ... awsome peice looks like new, $20 bucks with all the hardware, mate that up to my energy poly end links i made and get some poly guide and were in biz. Factory sway bar is a hair under 25mm the difference is almost amazing, its the same size at our 05 crew cab diesels front sway bar.

 

On a side note, i just went junk yard shopping at a local truck only yard to find a rear sway bar off somthing a little closer then a blazer... no luck their but i did manage to score a 02 monster 1.33" (33mm) front sway bar off of a 2wd blazer well jimmy sle with the lowered suspension option like the Zq8's ... awsome peice looks like new, $20 bucks with all the hardware, mate that up to my energy poly end links i made and get some poly guide and were in biz. Factory sway bar is a hair under 25mm the difference is almost amazing, its the same size at our 05 crew cab diesels front sway bar.

I have a rear sway bar from a zq8 just laying around at my apartment. I bought it a while bank and even had the brackets for it welded on. come to find out that my single in/dual out exhaust is in the way. Once I get all this engine stuff squared away, I'm going to take it to an exhaust shop and get them to re-route the pipes so I can get that sway bar on. I'll just keep the spare in the bed since I have a tonneu.

 

Ya, i am worried about the same thing on mine, but i'll have to deal with it, hopefully it fits without messing with it to much but i only have 70 bucks in the whole pipe setup after mandrel bending and all.

Also a little update, I've been working on getting some brakes under this truck, and i finaly got it all setup. I had a custom brake setup made from a guy i'll be posting more info about later.

I wanted the Fat rotors that come on the Ls1's the 1.25's wide and 12 inch tall vented disc but i didn't want the Ls1 calipers which were known for kinda twisting under abuse and wearing pads like crap, i almost went with the C4 setup with the .81 thick 12" disc but it didn't have the kinda caliper power i was looking for, So finaly i had a kit peice together with almost the best calipers out (c6's own everything) And the best rotor i could without getting into a 13" disc that would have low clearance in my zq8's and would have a little more drag then i'm looking forward to..

So i ended up with this combination......

C5 corvette calipers and hardware 2002 vette design
New GM banjo bolts, copper crush washers
New Raybestos LS1 12” x 1.25” rotors
Caliper carriers with new caliper retaining pins and clips
Custom caliper mounting brackets For LS1/C5 Setup
Custom hubs with new studs and bearing races installed
Earl’s SS braided front lines
New Timken bearings and grease seals
Hawk HPS LS1 Brake pads
All mounting hardware;
Install guide and parts list.
Its basically a bolt in kit besides modifications to the drop spindle...

Kit should be here in about a week.... The cost is somewhat amazing, lets just say if you replaced all of this with stock parts i'm sure you would come retarded close to what i'm paying. I'll be posting more about it when I start getting the parts in.

 

Also a little update, I've been working on getting some brakes under this truck, and i finaly got it all setup. I had a custom brake setup made from a guy i'll be posting more info about later.

So i ended up with this combination......

C5 corvette calipers and hardware 2002 vette design
New GM banjo bolts, copper crush washers
New Raybestos LS1 12” x 1.25” rotors
Caliper carriers with new caliper retaining pins and clips
Custom caliper mounting brackets For LS1/C5 Setup
Custom hubs with new studs and bearing races installed
Earl’s SS braided front lines
New Timken bearings and grease seals
Hawk HPS LS1 Brake pads
All mounting hardware;
Install guide and parts list.
Its basically a bolt in kit besides modifications to the drop spindle...

Kit should be here in about a week.... The cost is somewhat amazing, lets just say if you replaced all of this with stock parts i'm sure you would come retarded close to what i'm paying. I'll be posting more about it when I start getting the parts in.

Sounds like a wicked setup! How much did that run you?

 

Well i don't know what the total cost is yet, i'm sending in spindles and new rotors and stuff for core fee but expect in the ball park of 675-950 area depending on new calipers, used calipers, rebuilt calipers, C4, LS1 kit, C4 HD, C5 or any hybrid that may work.... really reasonable prices.

On a side note, I am raising the boost, its final, by the end of this week, i will be running between 6-9 lbs of boost. Their is more to it then that, but i will have to wait to see what i actually end up doing before i start talking about it.

 

Well i don't know what the total cost is yet, i'm sending in spindles and new rotors and stuff for core fee but expect in the ball park of 675-950 area depending on new calipers, used calipers, rebuilt calipers, C4, LS1 kit, C4 HD, C5 or any hybrid that may work.... really reasonable prices.

On a side note, I am raising the boost, its final, by the end of this week, i will be running between 6-9 lbs of boost. Their is more to it then that, but i will have to wait to see what i actually end up doing before i start talking about it.

man, I wish I had the time and resources to work on my truck like you do. I went to advanced yesterday to see if they had any knock sensors. No luck, but the guy at the front suggested maybe splicing into the one knock sensor that's there and seeing if that gets rid of the code. I tried it, but no luck. The truck is still running really really rough when it's cold. I stalled again on the way to work this morning. I'm gonna stop driving it now until I get things figured out. Actually, after work today I'm just going to take it to a shop and get them to fix the knock sensor and IAC problems. Btw, there is a plug in the intake. I figure I can get them to put the temp sensor in the intake, and the knock sensor in the block where the temp sensor was, and then have them also replace the old knock sensor on the passenger side of the block. I wish I could do all this work myself, but I neither have the time or the resources, so it's to the shop I go . I'm also ordering the aldl cable today.

btw, here are a couple vids of how it sounds:
https://fp.auburn.edu/laneyms/vids/still_exhaust.mov
https://fp.auburn.edu/laneyms/vids/walk_exhaust.mov

 

Ya i think thats the best bet, you shouldn't have any problems with those moved like that, like i said i almost did that, i actually did the same thing on a jeep i did a similar kinda swap on with a older injection system and newer block etc etc , we had to make a custom little thermostat housing and it was a pain because it was aluminum and welding little aluminum parts and cutting and grinding them to be flat water tigher surfaces ... lol

Also your truck sounds pretty freaking good, I like it, does seem like you had a lean problem if i had to guess, I think most of your problems will be gone with Brians work but you'll have to see when you get a aldl cable.

Good looking truck by the way.

And as far as the means to work on everything, if it wasen't for my grandpa we wouldn't be able to do any of this, he got us into it more less, he got us the truck, he has the good stuff at his house to do the work and it just works out awesome.

Good work on the truck !

 

Hey Mat,
I read this thread quite often just to see what is going on with your truck and Brock's. I keep noticing a pattern though and thought I would bring it to your attention. I think you could save your self a lot of troubles if you would just slow down and read the post over a few times. Brock has told you where EVERYTHING is and what all has to be done. EX. knock sensors, and temp sensors. You post a question to the thread and between Brock and Rat one of them answers it. You then blow that response off and ask another question only to post 3-4 posts later something about a previous question that you seemed to have figured it all out regarding problems that had. Well if you would read the post a few times and understand the material in the post you would have already put that problem in the past. I know it is your daily driver and you want it running perfectly but if you want to have it "DONE THE RIGHT WAY" slow down and take your time reading and working on the problems and you might get it done faster because you will understand it much better. Just thought I would throw in some tips to help you get your truck smoothed out a little quicker. Good luck with the rest of your project.

Oh, and remember the tortoise always wins the race... in the long run.

 

Hey Mat,
I read this thread quite often just to see what is going on with your truck and Brock's. I keep noticing a pattern though and thought I would bring it to your attention. I think you could save your self a lot of troubles if you would just slow down and read the post over a few times. Brock has told you where EVERYTHING is and what all has to be done. EX. knock sensors, and temp sensors. You post a question to the thread and between Brock and Rat one of them answers it. You then blow that response off and ask another question only to post 3-4 posts later something about a previous question that you seemed to have figured it all out regarding problems that had. Well if you would read the post a few times and understand the material in the post you would have already put that problem in the past. I know it is your daily driver and you want it running perfectly but if you want to have it "DONE THE RIGHT WAY" slow down and take your time reading and working on the problems and you might get it done faster because you will understand it much better. Just thought I would throw in some tips to help you get your truck smoothed out a little quicker. Good luck with the rest of your project.

Oh, and remember the tortoise always wins the race... in the long run.

The only reason I end up asking the same question about a certain thing is that I'm an idiot and I need clarification sometimes. I'm a newbie when it comes to some engine stuff. I mean I've done basic maintenance like battery change, alternator, oil change, spark plugs, etc...I've just never done something this extensive. The rest of my recent posts are mostly just updates that I don't really expect a response to, but which Brock and Rat kindfully reply to keep me on the right track and give me tips.

There's just so much information in this thread that sometimes I forget the things that have already been covered. Forgive me if my posts have been a bit scatter-brained though. I've had a lot of stuff to worry about in the past week or two besides my truck. Btw, my dad is doing much better now. He'll be going home from the hospital in the next day or two. They just have to do a few more tests.

Anyway, later

edit: and if you were referring to the last post where I posted about what I was going to get done for the sensors finally, I was just telling Brock that he was right about the intake plug and that I was using his solution. I didn't mean for it to sound like I had figured it out myself and blown him and rat off. I think that's maybe where you got that idea from?

 

ah, BLAST. The guy at the shop just called and said that he doesn't think he can get the knock sensor to work in the position of where the water sending unit was. He said once he put in the knock sensor and connected the harness, it was too close to the steering column and rubbing. I didn't think it was that close, but apparently it is. He's at a loss of what to do except for drilling a new location somewhere. I'm not really sure what to tell him yet either, but I know he wouldn't be able to do the drilling. Any suggestions?

 

ah, BLAST. The guy at the shop just called and said that he doesn't think he can get the knock sensor to work in the position of where the water sending unit was. He said once he put in the knock sensor and connected the harness, it was too close to the steering column and rubbing. I didn't think it was that close, but apparently it is. He's at a loss of what to do except for drilling a new location somewhere. I'm not really sure what to tell him yet either, but I know he wouldn't be able to do the drilling. Any suggestions?

What are the threads on the knock sensor?

There are block drains, you can see them if you get under the truck, forward of the oil filter. Check the threads there, see if they are the same.

 

What are the threads on the knock sensor?

There are block drains, you can see them if you get under the truck, forward of the oil filter. Check the threads there, see if they are the same.

Just called again. He said that he doesn't think those holes would be large enough for the knock sensor. He also told me that the knock sensors aren't supposed to go into any coolant or oil passageway.

 

Just called again. He said that he doesn't think those holes would be large enough for the knock sensor. He also told me that the knock sensors aren't supposed to go into any coolant or oil passageway.

Huh? Don't the stockers go into coolant passages?