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machine work on Vortech heads need some pointers

34K views 540 replies 28 participants last post by  zeldalord  
#1 · (Edited)
Alright here is the deal in what i am sure will be another long boring post by me :rolleyes: , as i mentioned before i picked up a set of 2000 vortech heads that had 15k miles on them for 50 bucks :) from a freind of a guy who owns a yard. they almost look like new reguardless.....

1). Taking them in either tommarow or monday to be magnafluxed checked to see if there warped cracked etc etc. The shop is charging 15 dollars a head to do this part. Anything i should have them check to make sure these heads are good before i start throwing money at them?

2). Next its missing the rockers... had roller rockers on it and guy who sold them to me wanted them... of coarse. So i am after a set of roller rockers from Crane or OEM need some pointers there...., do i need conversion studs ?or is there something else i am missing. He told me he can get me everything i need to run new OEM roller rockers brand new installed for $185.00, But if remember right Crane had a set at summit for like 150-160 everyone kept telling me about. What ratio do you guys run 1.6 or the umm 1.52 waren't it?

3). I am going to have him do the 3 angle valve job and clean them up, he said it would be around $100 for this for both heads. Now the question is should i have him bowl hog it and put in some like Manley stainless 1.6 exhaust and 2.02 intake valves ? If i should what sizes so far i am planning on those and using Manley stainless need some pointers here. Not sure whats the best for boost i am going to be running between 5-8lbs nothing crazy.

4). Next is the Cam lift clearance question.... Its never been clear to me at what amount of lift on a cam does the heads have to have the retainers cut? and is that what needs to be cut? I am planning on ordering a good cam i am trying to mentally set aside 200-300 for just the cam so this would be a good time for someone to step up and school me in what would be a good setup, I have wrote down what Rat recommended a couple weeks back and thats been the best lead i've had. I unfortunatley it looks like the heads will be done before the cam because of the way this shop is working me in during some spare time.

5). Anything i missed? how about valve springs and retainers? valve guides ? Anything i should be paying special attention to? I am wanting to get some pretty respectable HP outta this truck (maybe 250-300 RWHP?) and still have it deemed reliable for things like long trips etc. And i'm not sure at what point the cam get to be a problem but someone is hooking me up we'll say with a LM1 for this truck, and i am probably going to have a chip burned or if i can find enough info and hardware to burn my own i'll do that.

Also i have a 2114 intake sitting here waiting its turn to go on. And if i play my cards right when it comes to bolting the headers backup time my dad or brother will chip in again for a set of ceramic headers. (kinda a family project it was my grandpas truck.)

Thanks a million everyone.:D
 
#403 ·
Thanks for the reply Brock. I think I will do everything but the port and polish. I will spend that money on a pulley for the jammer and a meth kit. Do you like the one you got? I was looking at snow performance. They have a variable kit that gradually starts injecting.
 
#404 ·
I like devilsown alot, actually Race proven motors got me started on them also.. They have a variable kit for 285 if i remember right, i bought the base kit that was 180 because he told me some of the variable mess up if you run WOT for a long time and i've going to be on road coarses at half dozen times a year or more where i keep it pinned so i thought safe then sorry..

Snow performance makes a awsome product though, but between the two i kinda like the devils own setup, for stage 1, not snow has some awsome stuff for the later model Mass air flow stuff, but my truck of coarse doesn't use anything that high tech lol :)

On a side note i've only started test fitting stuff, haven't flipped the switch yet and ran meth yet because we were playing with the programming first. This week however all bets are off, i will be running and tunning with meth.

Also i'm waiting on AL to finish the freaking 2.75 pulleys that should be 8lbs of boost. Sometimes i wish he didn't drag out selling a pulley so much, its like if there is somthing i should know tell me... i'll fix it , problem solved lets get the show on the road... I wanted 10lbs, he wanted me to have 6 then he finds out its only making 4 at almost 6000 rpm and he wants me to get a 6lbs then a 8lbs then later on down the road maybe somthing else... ahhh ya, i'm going to go through all this crap to tune a 6lb pulley for 1.5lbs more boost then when thats done get a 8... lol He is a super nice guy and really knows his stuff but somtimes he is so stuborn it starts cutting into your project and time frames.. I have 30 days till this trucks going to be on a road coarse in MI running 130-150mph, the last thing i need is a pully to show up a week before i leave so i have to figure out should i run 4.5lbs of boost or should i switch and rush tune it...

O well i'm getting it figured out.. lol

Also truck is spending the night at the tranny shop.. hopefully tommorow i get it, also going to PA to pick up a 1998 8.5 with 3.42's and posi for 250... its been confirmed by vin at a chevy dealership but who knows i might get there and its a ford 9" the way things are going. lol
 
#405 ·
Hey brock,
Mike from RPM is telling me he only does "full race heads"for 1700. This is what he said..
Right now it is just the race version which essentially is complete with oversized stainless valves, 5 angle valve job, heavy duty springs, viton seals, retainers, locks and keepers, arp studs, full port/polish job flowing over 275 cfm on the intake at .500", full combustion chamber detail and polish. Basically complete fully done up ready for your roller rockers.
What do you think, too much? I have the money but I just don't want to get ripped. He wouldn't give me a break down of parts verse labor or brand name of parts. He said this..
We dont give out information on what brand parts we use, as it is bought on a wholesale level prior to companies like Comp, Crane, Rev, Manley, Summit, etc getting it and re-packaging it.
Any thoughts?
 
#406 ·
motopsychoz said:
He wouldn't give me a break down of parts verse labor or brand name of parts. He said this..
We dont give out information on what brand parts we use, as it is bought on a wholesale level prior to companies like Comp, Crane, Rev, Manley, Summit, etc getting it and re-packaging it.
Any thoughts?
wow, that sound shifty to me... i'd be leary about it... plus isn't a 5 angle job long term unstable?
 
#407 ·
Alright, only have a minute.. Updates

I have worked out a deal with a local machine shop the does short productions only of tooling and other machine items to do a batch of TBI units.

I am going to run a batch of probably 10 units the first time, I am already getting emails from people with full sizes and other vehicles asking about them.. somehow.

They are going to be
50mm bores machined
50mm stainless butterflys machines to match
bronze throttle shaft guides machined to close tolerance
possibly machining down throttle shafts
Machining down bowl at the top of the TBI
Media blasting and cleaning before all the machine work
Checked for flat surface to make sure there not twisted etc

The unit price If you send us the core is going to be roughly $145-$195 I have to see how the first run goes.

....................
Other updates,,,

Picked up axle(s) today...
After a 3 hr drive to get my 98 8.5 posi 3.42 disc 2wd axle he had a suprise for me, they went through all there trucks and found a 2000 with 41k miles on it.

Soo i did what anyone would have that just spent a month looking for one...
and decided to buy both.. he made a amazing deal

Then as i went to leave I was talking to a jeep guy that was working there and he conviced me i needed to take home a 8.8 also... also another unbeatable deal...

So i came home with...

1998 80k 2wd 5spd blazer 8.5 3.42 Posi Disc w/calipers
2000 41k 2wd 5spd blazer 8.5 3.42 (not sure if its Posi) Disc w/all parts
1997 40k Ford Explore 8.8 4.10's disc brakes with 4 calipers for it...

All three are top notch CLEAN axles, i've never seen anything like it... I was like a kid at a candy store and just blew money like it was my job... I will be selling off one of the 8.5's though, i THINK, i need to offset some cost on all of this..

Also i'm going to be selling my 7.625 if anyone is insterested. 3.42's 43k miles
 
#408 ·
Sounds f*cking great man. Makes me want to drop the money into my 1994 TBI.
 
#409 ·
Dillion you should man, Just getting all that old crap they put in from the factory is amazing gains, the vortec head swap with some nice valve springs, and a cam would do wonders.

From what i've found
Stock TBI cam is .050" tappet lift (intake/exhaust) is 179/194; and maximum lift with 1.5:1 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is .350/.384

My new cam is 260/266 duration with a max lift of .500/.500 that came EASILY pull hard to almost 5700RPM now. You do all that, get TBIchips to write your software and you'll be ripping it up, even without any kinda of boost.
 
#410 · (Edited)
Yea I'm gonna start saving for that and maybe do it all next summer. This summer 18s come first and though I would stilll have enough money left over to do the heads/cam/chip I need to save it for the upcoming semester of college.

Yea everything I've read says the TBI cam is a total piece of crap.

If I get ready to tear into this bitch I'm gonna call in a favor from ya lol. You seem to know what your doing and your only a state away.
 
#411 ·
brock1949 said:
From what i've found
Stock TBI cam is .050" tappet lift (intake/exhaust) is 179/194; and maximum lift with 1.5:1 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is .350/.384

My new cam is 260/266 duration with a max lift of .500/.500 that came EASILY pull hard to almost 5700RPM now. You do all that, get TBIchips to write your software and you'll be ripping it up, even without any kinda of boost.
To make a better comparison use the .050" lift duration numbers on the aftermarket cam. 206/210.:p
 
#412 ·
lol ya i didn't even notice i did that... good call i would have never caught it.

Just got the truck back from the tranny shop... Holy $hi#$

when you get on it like at all, it puts you into the seat in every gear, I've never been in a car that shifted so fast in my life. I mean its like even low throttle 1000-1500 rpm it will suddenly shift but at low throttle its smooth. 200% better worth every freaking penny!

I can't get over how firm, fast and precise all the shifts are...

Rat, do whatever you gotta do.... get that freaking kit and get it installed

Pro built 4L60E search them on google
 
#413 ·
Get some full throttle runs on video now.
 
#414 ·
Ok got it in the garage to take care of the tapping rocker..

And i called a couple people and asked opinions about the lifters and setting rockers.. i'm on a new conclusion, there is some bs involved with all this and last time i questioned this entire process that everyone follows and doesn't know why i got told i didn't know what i was doing and should pay someone to do it.....

And today after talking to a couple people i confirmed what i was trying to say.
When you install rockers on a hydrolic roller motor there are multiple ways to do it and some beter some worse, and actually the method flying around here the most often isn't really the best by any means. But thats my problem and once i have a method i know is 100% i will probably talk more about it.

however at the moment i might have another problem, i think my lifters can't hold the pressure... i know they can't over night, when you first start the motor if takes a couple seconds to smooth out from all the lifters being pushed down... So i might look into some heavier ones and see if that doesn't help, its only like 12 bolts to get back to the lifters...

And i have such a bad oil leak, its actually nuts, no more messing around, bringing the lift in going to lift the motor up at much as i can and slip in a new seal and clean it all up. Also i am ging to do motor mounts at the same time, Any recommendations for a motor mount i can get this weekend ?
 
#415 ·
I've got the pads from boosted: http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41886

And the poly part from energy suspention. My drivers side came out in 3 parts. My header was hitting my frame over bumps when i accelerated hard. The new mounts are great. I was never able to do a burn out just by flooring it, now i can no problem. Throttle response with them is great. JTR also has poly mounts, not sure what one is cheeper.
 
#416 ·
Alright i would love to get a set of boosted thrills motor mounts but i just haven't heard from him on hear or ever talked to him about them. And now of coarse i am going to do oil pan seals and need them like tommorow,..

So other then his whats the best option, any combinations of stuff from summit racing, napa or anything like that ?

Meth injection, new oil pan seal, new timing cover seal, maybe new timing cover, and cleaning up all the axles tommorow.

which another thing, considering coating the new axel in 395A anyone do that with there axles or frames? I've used it before and its amazing just not ont somthign outside the car.
 
#419 ·
Hey, doesn't bother me, my head combo has proven so far to be a pretty solid build, i wouldn't change anything. If i decided to try to improve on them it would be porting the exhaust side.

Also I sent boosted a message earlier today when i noticed he was online, haven't heard anything back yet though..

Picked up a new timing cover today, took me about 15 minutes to strip off water pump, some brackets, pulley and H balancer, came prepared brough a pulley however i was missing a extension which made it a royal pain to get the water pump bolts out around the power steering pully lol. 25 bucks, sad part is i could have just taken the whole motor for 50, i really should have but i was in a hurry and i keep having this problem picturing me putting 1000-1500 dollars into a 50 dollar block that been laying in the mud since god only know when...

tommorow with any luck i'll get the rockers adjusted and maybe the meth installed, and i'll start cleaning up the axles, I am going to clean up both of them and put new rotors, calipers, pads, hardware on them and media blast them and either coat them with new paint or 395A and then hopefully by then i will know if i am keeping both, running the one with a G80 or having a posi put in the other one...
 
#420 ·
brock1949 said:
however at the moment i might have another problem, i think my lifters can't hold the pressure... i know they can't over night, when you first start the motor if takes a couple seconds to smooth out from all the lifters being pushed down... So i might look into some heavier ones and see if that doesn't help, its only like 12 bolts to get back to the lifters...
any news on the liffters? what lifters did you use?
 
#421 ·
I have stock 1994 lifters with 40k on them, They seem to only bleed off over night and somtimes they don't even bleed of over night, but i am finding thats not that uncommon. When i talked to a couple different shops they told me comp was the only one offering the upgraded lifters that work and they sucked worse then factory... if its true i dunno RPM told me not to use comps lifters... so who knows i'll run them and see where i get.
 
#422 ·
brock1949 said:
I have stock 1994 lifters with 40k on them, They seem to only bleed off over night and somtimes they don't even bleed of over night, but i am finding thats not that uncommon. When i talked to a couple different shops they told me comp was the only one offering the upgraded lifters that work and they sucked worse then factory... if its true i dunno RPM told me not to use comps lifters... so who knows i'll run them and see where i get.
they said comp was the only one that made them??? Crane and Lunati both make a set for the 350 which is the same as ours.

The Crain ones are designed to replace the factory lifters and improve them... Jegs cat number is: 270-10530-16 They are OE style but with enhanced RPM range.
 
#423 ·
I have no idea, i asked about them a couple times to some local shops and to RPM he told me to just run factory stuff if i plan on staying out of the 6-8000 rpm range so who knows. He could of just been blowing me off knowing i wasen't driving a syty lol.

But i will probably start looking into it, maybe after i get back from the race track i will think about swapping them out with a better set.

I will see what i can find out and call around when i get some spare time.
 
#424 ·
brock1949 said:
I have stock 1994 lifters with 40k on them, They seem to only bleed off over night and somtimes they don't even bleed of over night, but i am finding thats not that uncommon. When i talked to a couple different shops they told me comp was the only one offering the upgraded lifters that work and they sucked worse then factory... if its true i dunno RPM told me not to use comps lifters... so who knows i'll run them and see where i get.
Well, I hope they don't suck too bad, I bought a set of Comp lifters that are going in there. I had 160,000 miles on the stock ones, so I wasn't too excited about leaving the stockers in there. While I was gone for spring break my chip from tbichips, my door handle filler plates, and my adjustable front sway bar endlinks came in. I'm calling the shop today to check on the progress of my rebuild. Last I heard they were fitting the heads. Hopefully it'll all be ready in the next day or two. I'm drying without my truck.

Brock, did Brian also send you a 170 degree thermostat with your chip? He sent one with mine, but I wasn't sure about putting it in there. Is a stock thermostat alright?

Also, have you looked into getting a digital speedometer? Our stupid gauges only go up to 85 mph, and I definitely want something better than that now that I won't have a governor to tell me I'm going 93 :)
 
#425 ·
mat1583 said:
Well, I hope they don't suck too bad, I bought a set of Comp lifters that are going in there. I had 160,000 miles on the stock ones, so I wasn't too excited about leaving the stockers in there. While I was gone for spring break my chip from tbichips, my door handle filler plates, and my adjustable front sway bar endlinks came in. I'm calling the shop today to check on the progress of my rebuild. Last I heard they were fitting the heads. Hopefully it'll all be ready in the next day or two. I'm drying without my truck.
I have had no problems with my 850-12's over the past year that i have had them. I think it is the other ones(875's?) that have the problem.
mat1583 said:
Brock, did Brian also send you a 170 degree thermostat with your chip? He sent one with mine, but I wasn't sure about putting it in there. Is a stock thermostat alright?
170 certainly won't hurt you. I run that temp year round, heater works and the fuel economy is normal.
 
#426 ·
rat said:
I have had no problems with my 850-12's over the past year that i have had them. I think it is the other ones(875's?) that have the problem.

170 certainly won't hurt you. I run that temp year round, heater works and the fuel economy is normal.
Ah, good. Yeah, I don't think I'll have to worry too much about the temp in the winter. It doesn't get too cold down here in Auburn. Even if I end up moving, it won't be up North, so I think I should be good. Only problem is that everything is being reinstalled as I type this, so I guess I'll have to put in the stat at another time. I've done it before anyway, so it's not that much trouble. I can't wait to pick my truck up though. I'm hoping with the chip it'll run good enough to get it back to Auburn. I really don't want to stay in Phenix City just to tune it.