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machine work on Vortech heads need some pointers

34K views 540 replies 28 participants last post by  zeldalord  
#1 · (Edited)
Alright here is the deal in what i am sure will be another long boring post by me :rolleyes: , as i mentioned before i picked up a set of 2000 vortech heads that had 15k miles on them for 50 bucks :) from a freind of a guy who owns a yard. they almost look like new reguardless.....

1). Taking them in either tommarow or monday to be magnafluxed checked to see if there warped cracked etc etc. The shop is charging 15 dollars a head to do this part. Anything i should have them check to make sure these heads are good before i start throwing money at them?

2). Next its missing the rockers... had roller rockers on it and guy who sold them to me wanted them... of coarse. So i am after a set of roller rockers from Crane or OEM need some pointers there...., do i need conversion studs ?or is there something else i am missing. He told me he can get me everything i need to run new OEM roller rockers brand new installed for $185.00, But if remember right Crane had a set at summit for like 150-160 everyone kept telling me about. What ratio do you guys run 1.6 or the umm 1.52 waren't it?

3). I am going to have him do the 3 angle valve job and clean them up, he said it would be around $100 for this for both heads. Now the question is should i have him bowl hog it and put in some like Manley stainless 1.6 exhaust and 2.02 intake valves ? If i should what sizes so far i am planning on those and using Manley stainless need some pointers here. Not sure whats the best for boost i am going to be running between 5-8lbs nothing crazy.

4). Next is the Cam lift clearance question.... Its never been clear to me at what amount of lift on a cam does the heads have to have the retainers cut? and is that what needs to be cut? I am planning on ordering a good cam i am trying to mentally set aside 200-300 for just the cam so this would be a good time for someone to step up and school me in what would be a good setup, I have wrote down what Rat recommended a couple weeks back and thats been the best lead i've had. I unfortunatley it looks like the heads will be done before the cam because of the way this shop is working me in during some spare time.

5). Anything i missed? how about valve springs and retainers? valve guides ? Anything i should be paying special attention to? I am wanting to get some pretty respectable HP outta this truck (maybe 250-300 RWHP?) and still have it deemed reliable for things like long trips etc. And i'm not sure at what point the cam get to be a problem but someone is hooking me up we'll say with a LM1 for this truck, and i am probably going to have a chip burned or if i can find enough info and hardware to burn my own i'll do that.

Also i have a 2114 intake sitting here waiting its turn to go on. And if i play my cards right when it comes to bolting the headers backup time my dad or brother will chip in again for a set of ceramic headers. (kinda a family project it was my grandpas truck.)

Thanks a million everyone.:D
 
#327 ·
LOL

Alright ,... Updates updates updates....and i got a bunch more pics but i'll have to wait till work tommorow to post them.

So i got the walbro 190 in, what a instant change....

First thing we notice, we turn the key to on to run the fuel pump to see what it will read on the fuel pressure gauge before we start it to make sure it wasen't going to like max out the gauge or somthing crazy. So we key it on, goes right to like 22lbs (without the truck running) but the crazy part is the old pump the fuel pressure would instantly fall, it held that pressure till i started the truck..

Once we started it, this is where i knew it was already 100% beter, it instantly fired and really strong and stable, with the old pump in i was getting a like low rpm kinda weak rough start that would sound like someone starting a cammed up big block, then it would smooth out after a second. Now its just instant running pretty smooth, and really consistant idling A:F

Now once i drop it home, at low RPM and normal 1000-2200 rpm are it was really smooth and SUPER SUPER responsive.

So onto testing it turning some rpms and hopefully seeing boost, I (in the snow, with kumoh summer only track tires for road coarses) start pushing it a little. First try i got onto a road with like 5 lanes so i had room to save my ass when i started to slide from being on my hotwheels plastic tires in the snowing 20degree weather.... I now have the oposite problem... so i got on it, the truck responds crazy fast as soon as i hit the gas for a split second, then it goes to like 9.8-10.6 area and just falls flat on its face with like no power at all... lol ... So ya now i have to much fuel..

So good thing i kept the lean chip from the first try he sent, i wil be triyng that again tommorow morning. I can only get to like 3500 and just gets way to rich and plus its just slower then hell.

The Actual install of the walbro.....

Now as far as the actual install today, Kinda a pain in the ass, I did it alone, with about 1/4 tank of gas in it, trying to lift that thing in and out and move it just right o line up bolt holes etc etc ...ehhh

I had the tank out in like 30-45 min, then once jesse cleared up how to get that damn ring off, I had everything back in the tank and ready for install in maybe a half hour to a hour just kinda messing around and taking my time. Then when i was putting the tank back in a broke a strap,.... what a pain, luckliy the local autozone BY CHANCE had a set in for a 1994 s10 someone had ordered and never picked up. Like 20 bucks and beating the living daylights out of two giant riviets, re riveting the strap to the brace on the front of the tank... and i was ready to go. Over all i had about 3-4 hours in dropping the tank and putting it al back in, now that i've done it i could do it again in maybe 1-2 hours.

Updates in the whole TBI fuel injection for boost ....

I confirmed it, and talked to the company building them, I can indeed get a 4 barrel 960 CFM TBI throttle body with 4 55lb injectors that will and have supported up to 650-700hp. This TBI unit is ran using the FACTORY computer and harness, the only modification to the harness is splicing in a harness to control the 4 injectors. He also makes high flow 2 barrel TBIs for up to 360hp i think. The two barrel TBI units were 350 bucks and the 4 barrel with the injectors ready to bolt onto my 4 bolt square flange is 500.... a little steep but then again its not that bad either.... He also had a syclone ECM with a program to run TBI injection with 2 bar map sensor with the computer itself and the first chip only being 100 bucks..The only problem being it can't control my 4l60E i would have to goto a 700R4 or somthing like that......

Alright... Enough for tonight this post is already going to be so long people might fall sleep. lol
 
#328 ·
Also on a side note yesterday i went to detroit with a freind of mine for a car club meet, one of his freinds brought me 2 taurus SHO fans, ungodly high flow usually setup at 2 speed fans.... both for 30 bucks... They are both in damn good shape...

Those fans, i know in the low speed at in the high 2000 cfm, i think 2800 and in the high speed (which mine will be in all the time, only getting 1 relay.) I THINK they are like 3500 3800 cfm... I have been using cop car fans from crown vics, i used one on my jeep which kept overheating in the sand dunes, and a freind of mine used one of his body dropped s10 that kept over heating, both times 200% improvement ford actually has some CRAZY strong electric fans... lol

So this weekend or first of the week i'll be working on trying to get one of those mounted under the hood.

I also have a pilar gauge cluster deal and the innovate anolog AF gauge to hooked to the wideband and my boost gauge to mount this weekend.
 
#329 ·
brock1949 said:
The only problem being it can't control my 4l60E i would have to goto a 700R4 or somthing like that......
Keep the stock computer for the trans, and run the other one for the engine.

Those fans, i know in the low speed at in the high 2000 cfm, i think 2800 and in the high speed (which mine will be in all the time, only getting 1 relay.) I THINK they are like 3500 3800 cfm... I have been using cop car fans from crown vics, i used one on my jeep which kept overheating in the sand dunes, and a freind of mine used one of his body dropped s10 that kept over heating, both times 200% improvement ford actually has some CRAZY strong electric fans... lol
I run my tauraus fan on low all the time. No over heating problems, and it draws a little less current.
 
#330 ·
brock1949 said:
Also on a side note yesterday i went to detroit with a freind of mine for a car club meet, one of his freinds brought me 2 taurus SHO fans, ungodly high flow usually setup at 2 speed fans.... both for 30 bucks... They are both in damn good shape...

Those fans, i know in the low speed at in the high 2000 cfm, i think 2800 and in the high speed (which mine will be in all the time, only getting 1 relay.) I THINK they are like 3500 3800 cfm... I have been using cop car fans from crown vics, i used one on my jeep which kept overheating in the sand dunes, and a freind of mine used one of his body dropped s10 that kept over heating, both times 200% improvement ford actually has some CRAZY strong electric fans... lol

So this weekend or first of the week i'll be working on trying to get one of those mounted under the hood.

I also have a pilar gauge cluster deal and the innovate anolog AF gauge to hooked to the wideband and my boost gauge to mount this weekend.
hahaha great updates but it sounds like you need to learn how to burn your own chips to save some money:D
can't wait to see how it gona run once you get the chips worked out.
 
#331 ·
Alright just ran the truck on the lean chip, It was actually a little worse, ran like shit right off the bat, once it was running for like 5 minutes i think it went to open mode on the o2 sensor and started running better, but still as soon as i hit the gas it went dead rich, after a couple minutes driving it would let it rev up a little more but just went dead lean and couldn't even pull.

Now as far as paying for the chips i don't have to pay for the updates, just the shipping back. So hopefully we get it all worked out.

Rat how did you get your electric fan mounted? do you have any pictures ? Also what did you use to wire yours two speed? I planned on using a flex-a-lite wiring harness with the temp sensor and relay but i only see a way to run it with the max voltage which would be the highest speed. .. Intertested in how you pulled that off I have always just wired them with 1 relay.
 
#333 ·
brock1949 said:
Rat how did you get your electric fan mounted? do you have any pictures ? Also what did you use to wire yours two speed? I planned on using a flex-a-lite wiring harness with the temp sensor and relay but i only see a way to run it with the max voltage which would be the highest speed. .. Intertested in how you pulled that off I have always just wired them with 1 relay.
I can get pics, but it is fairly simple, i just slapped it in there, drilled a hole on the very top part of the radiator, and used a screw to hold the top of the fan. The bottom kindof sits in the stock fan shroud. I need to re-do mine, for a little more clearence on the front of the motor though.

I only use the low speed is what i was saying, i don't need the high speed.

I use this with a radioshack relay to run mine though: http://store.summitracing.com/defau...ontrol&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp
I plan on using the stock computer, but it requires a rewire. That only works for the '98 up guys though.
 
#335 ·
Alright in the moring i am going to go double check all the stuff on the fuel pressure reg, Somthing kind seems off. If it rasies 1:1 and i set base fuel pressure to 13.5-15 psi at idle, then i rev it up to like 3500 and it shoots past 20psi of fuel pressure, say 21lbs... So what the hell does that mean its compensating for 5-6lbs of boost by 3500 rpms? There is only 1 way it could have that much boost that low of rpm... It is the emissions port on the TBI isn't really after the TBI throttle blades... in other words its taking pressures off of the pressured side of the TBI and not after the TBI.

I guess with the boost/vac gauge i can see if the vacum readings are where they should be based on what the numbers are at the master cylinder line.. maybe i will just move it to that port with the boost gauge and see if it helps.

Either way going through all this in the morning before work i think, hopefully i confirm its right or fix whats wrong and i will send out the data to TBIchips and get the next chip in the mail... I think i'm going to throw in some extra money in hopes that it gets here faster then 5 days.... this 1 change a week is going to take a year before its done.
 
#336 ·
Now the only other thing i am wondering about... maybe my idle is so rough that my vacum is messed up until i rev it up. This thing sits there and kinda cams, its got a lope to it, as you goto drive it the truck shakes at idle and just above idle almost enough to worry about it, then as soon as you hit the gas it smooths out like nothings going on.

so what if i am setting my fuel pressure at idle when its to rough the idle isn't even making correct vacum until i hit the gas....And thats throwing off all the numbers of what its compensating for.
 
#337 ·
Mine runs about 20in hg with the same cam, and that is a fair amount of vac. I would deffinately double check that you have your regulator hooked into the bonnet air, and not the manifold air.
 
#338 ·
AH HA I found it, Jesse you were right that guy did have a way to fix the leaking TBI shafts...

http://home.alltel.net/mcfly/sealingTBI.htm

I started thinking i had to be able to find it and all the links were broke and finaly i found one that was working! Ya he got it, i need to look at it closer and i'll really understand where he is drilling to but the theory and method seems awsome.

And i don't know if i am pulling the reference boost or vac from the right spot yet, it makes sense it should be from the bonnet where the injectors are, and i somehow doubt thats where the TBI emissions port leads to....So i will have to check it out tommorow.

Also jesse did you catch that guy went to a accel DFI ecm with 2 bar map on his factory harness didn't cut a single wire. got it from a company that makes kits to install accel dfi's on factory harnesses.

http://www.whiteracing.com/products.html

Anyways i'm going to nail this thing yet, no worries lol

I made my first aldl cable, however the plans TBI chips hands out are for the slower port 160 baud which my truck didn't even have the pin for, I am now building a 200% nicer setup that aldlcable.com uses thats a two transistor, powered cable. Picked up all my resistors, transistors, and diodes tonight at radio shack so tommorow i will have some datalogged ecm...
 
#339 ·
alright, after talking to aeromotive, I have it hooked up wrong, and ontop of that i need a blow off valve set to 1-2 psi above what i'm going to run.

Also i am probably going to pick up the stuff to start loading the programs on the chips myself so he can just email me and i load them myself... like 20 a week instead of 1 update a week. Plus i can start editing it myself and see if i can't mess up his programming.
 
#340 ·
When I had my Aero hooked up to vacuum, I had it plumbed into
the port on the right side of the manifold which sends a vacumm source
for the EGR, and the vacuum res ball. I knew it was straight maifold
vacuum since it was right at the base of the maifold next to the TBI.

Sounds like you almost have it set.
 
#341 ·
brock1949 said:
alright, after talking to aeromotive, I have it hooked up wrong, and ontop of that i need a blow off valve set to 1-2 psi above what i'm going to run.

Also i am probably going to pick up the stuff to start loading the programs on the chips myself so he can just email me and i load them myself... like 20 a week instead of 1 update a week. Plus i can start editing it myself and see if i can't mess up his programming.
nice, i was wondering if you were going to do that. Really is going to speed up your tunning, but you gona need to get a lifetime pass to a dyno to get it tuned 100%:haha:
 
#342 ·
And another small victory tonight..

So i started thinking if my reg is hooked up wrong, and raising pressure at the wrong ratios more less, it couldn't be any worse if i unhooked the reference line and plugged it and the vacum source. So i thought i would just to see where i could get with proper fuel pump, fuel pressure, injectors and a chip thats in the ball park.

So if its supposed to be 13psi base and 18-20 under boost i figure set it to a static 15-16psi and see how it goes..

I give it like 5 minutes to warm up and take it out for a drive, its staying 14.7-15.5 while driving low speed. so i pull out onto a 45mph road so i can get on it a little more. Well after a minute of that i figure out its doing pretty damn good, almost no problems, rough spots or anything... So i decide to run it from a stop light, i run first gear out... to over 5000rpms, it stays in 11.1.12.5 the entire time, pulls like a freight train and is so damn loud past 4000rpm its almost dumb. So i try it from rolling at like 40 mph at like 1400rpm i hit the gas till it downshifts, it instantly goes to like 4000-4500rpm and launches... hard non the less, dropped right to 11.3 A:F. Actually when i did that, when it went from 1200-1400rpm coasting almost to 4000-4500 rpm it was so loud the lady next to me with her windows down like nails the brakes... lol... she all like nails the brakes and trys to turn away thinking its going to like explode... lmao...

Good times good times... so seeing it running and running pretty damn good actually is very inspiring.. kinda lights the fire under your ass. Almost makes you forget about the fact it still leaking oil from somewhere... lol

Ordering all the stuff to start buring chips from my house tommorow, then we should be able to get this thing nailed. Also building my new powered double transistor aldl cable for datalogging on TTS tonight or tommorow so i should be set really quick here.

more updates coming, i'll try to get some pics i have some on the camera... just gotta get them off of it.
 
#343 ·
alright next question...

Blow off valves, Bypass, poppets whatever
1) where is a cheap one, what what am i looking for
2) can i just drill a hole in something and run a line to it or do they mount on the tube
3) what the hell how can i know so little about these
4) are all of them adjustable, i want it to come on like 2lbs above my boost, so like 6,8,10, 12,14 would be nice if one could be adjusted for any of those numbers.
5) i was told a blow off valve, poppet, and bypass were all the same thing by aeromotive today..
6) someone should give me one, that would make my day

lol alright thats enough...
 
#344 ·
brock1949 said:
And another small victory tonight..



I give it like 5 minutes to warm up and take it out for a drive, its staying 14.7-15.5 while driving low speed. so i pull out onto a 45mph road so i can get on it a little more. Well after a minute of that i figure out its doing pretty damn good, almost no problems, rough spots or anything... So i decide to run it from a stop light, i run first gear out... to over 5000rpms, it stays in 11.1.12.5 the entire time, pulls like a freight train and is so damn loud past 4000rpm its almost dumb.
YEAH!! glad to hear it lives!!

do you have vids any time soon!!!:rant: :rant:

BTW why is it so loud?
 
#346 ·
Ordered programmer, gm flash chip adapter, and 4 extra flash chips... should be here friday.

My brother built a nice two transistor powered aldl cable in a project case on a pc board.

Also got all my blow off valve stuff figure out, i know what i need and i'll be picking one up as soon as i figure out who has the specs i want cheap. Also on a side note the blow off valve will all but eliminate ALL pressure on the TBI causing it to leak. Between a blow off bypass whatever you wanna call it valve and pressurizing shafts thats going to be a problem of the past.

Oh and as far as why its so loud, between the supercharger which actually is really damn loud, the cam, tubular heads, freaking high flow y pipe, and all mandrel bent exhaust, no cat and a dynomax ultraflo race muffler which you can look through its just a pretty crazy sounding setup.

The oil leak is like 90% gone but i still get a drip or two every once and awhile. I think its from the freaking timing cover, So when i goto put some engine mounts in i will probably lift it up with a hoist drop the oil pan put in a new timing cover and seals. The new timing cover is because i trimmed some of the inside like to get it to fit back in.
 
#347 ·
brock1949 said:
all mandrel bent exhaust, no cat and a dynomax ultraflo race muffler which you can look through its just a pretty crazy sounding setup.
OOOOoooo, ok didn't see all that, yeah the lack of cat and a dynomax... no wonder its loud.


you ought to run open header just to see what it sounds like LOL:haha:
 
#349 ·
Alright,
I got the vortech bypass/blow off valve the maxflow race valve. They said it was 320cfm at 8psi so thats plently of unloading. I went with the vortech because of a couple reasons, first off i couldn't decide either get in a blow off valve made for a turbo thats variable enough to be set to do what i want, or to get a vortech one thats made to do exactly what i want. Honestly i think they are just about the same i think once there completly adjustable and into being a high quality valve then there about the same.

So i called ahead before making my trip to summit and they said they had the raptor valve and didn't have any vortech race valves in, so it was a no brainer.... So i get there and its the oposite, raptor is special order only said they ONLY stock turboXS, then he looks again and said they had 1 extra vortech race valve in blue somehow he said someone must have ordered it and never picked it up.. So screw it once again i was torn between looking for an angle and once i had both the product catalogs and seen they had the same ratings more less for the most part so its cool either way.

And the vortech was cheaper by about 50 bucks or so by the time i got the steel mounting plate for it which they also had instock 1 of.. lol

I also picked up a centerbolt valve cover mounted spark plug wire hold downs, a flat clamp for the y pipe on the truck because a normal ubolt deal would be the lowest point on the truck in the middle of the freaking truck by like a half inch or inch.

AND I also got all the chips, programmer, software and adapter Along with the two extra TBI units jesse sent... Thanks a million by the way.

So all the ducks are in a row, tommorow i am hitting it hard, going to see how much we can get knocked out, i suppose with enough work and Brian from tbi chips working a sat and sunday i could have it tunned and setup this weekend... If all goes well hopefully it will be on a dyno next week getting fine tunned...