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machine work on Vortech heads need some pointers

34K views 540 replies 28 participants last post by  zeldalord  
#1 · (Edited)
Alright here is the deal in what i am sure will be another long boring post by me :rolleyes: , as i mentioned before i picked up a set of 2000 vortech heads that had 15k miles on them for 50 bucks :) from a freind of a guy who owns a yard. they almost look like new reguardless.....

1). Taking them in either tommarow or monday to be magnafluxed checked to see if there warped cracked etc etc. The shop is charging 15 dollars a head to do this part. Anything i should have them check to make sure these heads are good before i start throwing money at them?

2). Next its missing the rockers... had roller rockers on it and guy who sold them to me wanted them... of coarse. So i am after a set of roller rockers from Crane or OEM need some pointers there...., do i need conversion studs ?or is there something else i am missing. He told me he can get me everything i need to run new OEM roller rockers brand new installed for $185.00, But if remember right Crane had a set at summit for like 150-160 everyone kept telling me about. What ratio do you guys run 1.6 or the umm 1.52 waren't it?

3). I am going to have him do the 3 angle valve job and clean them up, he said it would be around $100 for this for both heads. Now the question is should i have him bowl hog it and put in some like Manley stainless 1.6 exhaust and 2.02 intake valves ? If i should what sizes so far i am planning on those and using Manley stainless need some pointers here. Not sure whats the best for boost i am going to be running between 5-8lbs nothing crazy.

4). Next is the Cam lift clearance question.... Its never been clear to me at what amount of lift on a cam does the heads have to have the retainers cut? and is that what needs to be cut? I am planning on ordering a good cam i am trying to mentally set aside 200-300 for just the cam so this would be a good time for someone to step up and school me in what would be a good setup, I have wrote down what Rat recommended a couple weeks back and thats been the best lead i've had. I unfortunatley it looks like the heads will be done before the cam because of the way this shop is working me in during some spare time.

5). Anything i missed? how about valve springs and retainers? valve guides ? Anything i should be paying special attention to? I am wanting to get some pretty respectable HP outta this truck (maybe 250-300 RWHP?) and still have it deemed reliable for things like long trips etc. And i'm not sure at what point the cam get to be a problem but someone is hooking me up we'll say with a LM1 for this truck, and i am probably going to have a chip burned or if i can find enough info and hardware to burn my own i'll do that.

Also i have a 2114 intake sitting here waiting its turn to go on. And if i play my cards right when it comes to bolting the headers backup time my dad or brother will chip in again for a set of ceramic headers. (kinda a family project it was my grandpas truck.)

Thanks a million everyone.:D
 
#252 ·
Jessie, I am working out of town the next couple days and my brother is actually going to summit in the morning on his way to a clients office to get a harness from jacobs that going to make our msd install no wires cut. So when do you need the stuff by cuz i can't get up there myself for a couple days.

I guess i am going to be running around 6-7lbs of boost right off the bat, what i completly overlooked when Al kept telling me i would be running 6+ with my current setup was the RPMs the engine will turn after the chip.

After talking to TBI chips and putting in my order (which should be here thursday or friday), He told me that my ecm code i gave him was setup for low rpm shifts 4500-4600rpms and a max redline under 5k rpm. Well the new chip will shift at 5500rpm and redline at 6k so its going to be winding up that s/c alot more.

After talking to tbichips i have decided not to start it until i get the chip, He was worried that it might end up messing up some stuff if i ran it as is. Told me with the 350 injectors and combination of parts its liable to wash the cylinders and burn up the pistons and said he had it happen to a camaro. Sooo looks like waiting till thursday to run it.

And so far the deal is i'm going to put the chip in, see how it goes, if it seems like were way off on A:f ratio in either direction (those injectors are enough to completly flood it even under boost) or if it seems like its not smooting out between vacum and boost conditions then i am doing to trailer it down to NC for a day and just have him work on it first hand.

So better safe then sorry, I'll keep you guys updated...
 
#255 ·
lol, ya i had a cousin over who can't be leaned over a chevy engine unless one hands on a beer.

And ya I think its worth it, I mean it was my grandpa's truck, i'm getting to build it at his house in his garage, using literally the best tools you can get your hands on (owned a tool store for 30 years) on top of all that i got my grandpa getting to work and watch us build up his truck, He really gets a kick out of all of it and really gets into it being shown. Just one of those things.... If you gave me a million dollars right now i would still be leaned under the hood of that truck working in that garage ;) I wanna work on as many projects and things as i can with him for as long as i can... Heck when this is done in the next couple weeks i am going to try and track down his old 36 ford coupe and see about getting ahold of it...If i can't find his i might try to find another one.. he told me he found his 36 a couple years back and it had just sold for over 20G so it might be unrealistic to try and get it but i'll see...

Truck updates...
Chip should be here tommarow, or friday, still need to put in radiator finish some of the accesory mounting and clean some more stuff up, but nothing tooo bad, as far as new stuff going in i'm picking up a B&M tranny cooler and a remote spin on fluid filter that i'll mount somewhere on the frame... Other then that its all in.
 
#256 · (Edited)
brock1949 said:
Chip should be here tommarow, or friday, still need to put in radiator finish some of the accesory mounting and clean some more stuff up, but nothing tooo bad, as far as new stuff going in i'm picking up a B&M tranny cooler and a remote spin on fluid filter that i'll mount somewhere on the frame
I don't know if this will help, but I found a place on the pass side of the frame for
the filter. I thought you had a 5 speed. Guess I was wrong. Are you going to have
to install a stall converter for this engine rebuild ? Anyway pics are here below.
For some reason the pics at the 1st link are not working, so they
are listed here..

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83596&highlight=Trans+cooler+installed
http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544/713502/1204867/42751738.jpg
http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544/713502/1204867/42754941.jpg
http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544/713502/1204867/43116345.jpg
http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544/713502/1204867/42750982.jpg
http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544/713502/1204867/42750818.jpg
http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL544/713502/1204867/42781446.jpg

That is very cool to be able to work with your Grand Father watching.
Down the road you'll remember this. I'd give anything to be able to
work with my Father or Brothers once more, but they're all in another
place now..Looking forward to hearing how things go with this engine.
 
#257 · (Edited)
Thanks Bg, Now that was a awsome install on your tranny cooler and filter, nice work on those lines to. What did it take to convert them to the AN style fittings. I am probably going with the summit generic filter kit its like 30 bucks with the filter replacements are a mass produced fram number. And the tranny cooler i am going with the B&M cooler thats pretty freaking big.

Now for the converter... as of right now i'm planning on luck for awhile. lol, I know its horrible do all this and leave the tranny stock, but i am saving up for getting all the tranny upgrade parts from that one transmission place that builds the 700R4 raptors etc etc. Its going to be like 800-900 for everything...ehh
 
#258 ·
I need to do the same think ot my oil lines, there leeking agin. i think im going to make new lines and use an external oil cooler
 
#259 ·
BROCK1949 said:
What did it take to convert them to the AN style fittings. I am probably going with the summit generic filter kit its like 30 bucks with the filter replacements are a mass produced fram number.
Thanks for the kind works. All the -AN fittings were from a local aircraft salvage yard
but Summit carries all the fittings and -AN 6 line as well. The filter kit is indeed
Summit's own generic kit. The sensor and gauge kit is from Auto meter via Summit.
I use a tranny filter from TCI , and Purolator Plus for both the eng
and tranny filters

I admit it cost a lot to setup, but along with a TCI deep pan, it takes close to 11
quarts of ATF to fill up the tranny. I use Royal Purple along with a qt of EXP4
tranny snake oil to keep my ole 700R4 going..So far so good, and I HAVE been
mean to this poor old trans.
 
#260 ·
Updates...

My brother picked up the rest of the parts we need to finish today
stewart-warner mechnical -30 vacum to 15psi boost gauge (nice clean look black face, its going to match wideband gauge nice.
B&M Super Transmission cooler
B&M Remote spin on transmission filter (they were out of the summit kit)
Random valve cover breathers from edelbrock, oil fill cap and fittings ..
And a new chrome water neck thats actually going to fit (last one was a 45)

AND the all Mighty Chip showed up. I have the chip from TBICHIPS.com, I had class tonight but my brother worked on it for a couple hours and got the brackets with power steering back on and started mounting supercharger, i worked on it long enough to gap and isntall the TR55 plugs and tried to finish up the LM1 install in the glove box.

Tommarow looks like it could be the day we get it started.

The biggest hurdles left, (which are down to some smaller ones) Coming up with a plate on the coolant tank to mount the msd and the freaking giant coil, ya that coil is a sweet idea until you have to find a place to mount the damn thing. I am going to have to fabricate a new bracket or modify the old one to mount the cruise control so i can see i won't have cruise for a couple days, and the boost gauge will be temp. mounted in the glove box with the wideband until i find a pilar i like or more likley can afford.
 
#262 ·
zeldalord said:
YES YES YES PICS PICS PICS AND VIDS!!! :D :D :D :D :D :nuts: :nuts: :evilg:

ok, no more caffine for me, but we really need those vids of how it all is so much better,

isn't there a 100mile break-in you have to do on the cam?
It is a roller cam, so break in isn't much of an issue. I would be more worried about the tune being off, than "properly" breaking in the cam. I took it easy on mine for a few miles, but probably not 100.
 
#263 ·
rat said:
It is a roller cam, so break in isn't much of an issue. I would be more worried about the tune being off, than "properly" breaking in the cam. I took it easy on mine for a few miles, but probably not 100.
i hear that about the tuning,

makes sense, i didn't think about the roller part of it, see what college does to you? you go there to get educated, and when your out you realize your 20k in debt and know a damn thing. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:
 
#264 ·
Well updates...

I only got to work on the truck for one night this weekend, Was going to work on it today but everyone wanted to go out riding so i ended up going out ridding atv's in a ridding park in some wonderfull 20 degree weather...

completed this weekend,..

LM1 wideband is completly installed and wired to glove box all panels and wires routed and cleaned up.

New bosch 02 sensors installed to the edelbrock headers... This proved to be one of the biggest pains of the entire project... actually amazing, the connector for the factory 02 sensor was zip tied to the transmission dip stick tube and you couldn't reach around the headers and frame or engine to get it, it was impossible to even touch it let alone plug something in, so i ended up taking like a 2ft screw driver and pushing it up the dipstick until someone from the top could hook it and pull it up enough to get a knife in to cut the thing free. Once we got it off the dipstick we pulled it out the top and plugged it in lowered the sensor back down and then had to wind up the cord backwards so when i got it tight it wouldn't be all bound up... WHAT A PAIN

I got all the sensors back in the heads etc,
installed B&M remote mount spin on tranny filter, and tranny cooler ran those line

Mounted AC condensor and radiator, started getting the cooling lines figured out,

And i'm still trying to figure out how i'm getting the coil zilla and MSD mounted on a steel bracket thing i was trying to make,

And also looked into solving the problem with there being no where to mount the cruise control unit bracket.

Does anyone know alot about how that cruise control works ? when everything is off should the cable just hanging there or snug or under light tension? or can you mount it anyway and it tightens it up or loosens it as it needs to be. ??? If no ones played with it i'll just have to setup some test and see what its doing once it running.

Last note,

I will be posting more about this later in the club meeting sections or something but..

Taurus Car Club of America will be hosting...
Gingerman Raceway Mi, Track day / Test and tune
May 4 They have the track rented out for just them, The guy in charge of the track day is one of my freinds from my area it should be alot of fun and its usually a small group (20-30 cars 3 classes novice, intermediate, advanced).
The cost is going to be about 165 for the day per vehicle. This is for the entire day.
I am definetly going to be there, There is going to be everything from stock tauruses to 450WHP supercharged SHO models, and i guess there is usually everything from subaru's lighting's mustangs also on the road coarse that are part of the club. If your interested you will need to contact me and i'll be doing the planning for the s10 side. Lets get some chevy's out there. PM if your interested or find the thread i am going to start and ask questions there.
 
#265 ·
hey brock, note on the cruise control, just leave it slightly loose. When you use the cruise the computer simply tightens the cruise cable until it matches the tension of the throttle cable and holds it to that position until you turn it off.

hope that help
 
#266 ·
Yes that does help actually, alot.. so leave it between slack in it and tension, and it just pulls till it matches it? So as long as i don't put tension on the cables then its going to have the room to adjust it by pulling on it..

Now i have to come up with a bracket or modify that one, i Might be able to modify it, growns10 on here who is a good freind of mine and is pretty awsome metal worker thought he had it figured out so i'll have to see.
 
#267 ·
Alright i am finaly going to get a break, the truck will be done, and soon. I have class tonight after that i am going to go work on it and i have the rest of the week off. So i will work on it tonight and get up early tommarow get any else done and start finishing smaller details i can worry about after its done. I want it running tommarow thursday at the latest that way if i have to goto NC for the ECM i can.

Last night i got everything down to the belt on the freaking thing, very few things left at this point they are alot of BS though, random holes in the intake that need to be handled, running vacum lines, routing boost gauge to umm somewhere.. i guess someone can hold it while i drive lol.

I will post some updated pics tonight or tommorow
 
#269 ·
Alright, I got part of my day in i was hopping for today, We got almost everything done, its like stupid how little is left and we didn't start it. I even came home early.

Alright last couple problems, We had no where to mount msd and coil, We fabbed a awsome plate with a heat sheidl that was going ontop the coolant tank, then get it all done and with the rubber feet on the msd stuff it hits the hood... What a piss off. Knew it was going to be close but to close it would be rubbing stuff of the hood liner ect ect screw that.

Back to the drawling board, i have a couple ideas like getting rid of the tank, putting in a small tank off the side of the rad, then making a bracket up that bolts where the old coolant tank was. We'll get her...

Next i got rid of all the egr crap and emissions stuff, the little controler and all of its lines etc etc hopefully it doesn't give me any errors with the units unplugged since TBIchips eliminated them... Now i have to find a place to mount map sensor though... which sucks one more freaking thing that needs screwed somewhere and to make it fun its got like a 3 inch cord.

Tommarow all day i'm on the truck again...

On a side note, yesterday i got ahold of the desktop dyno program, went through setup everything from valve size, heads, cam specs, boost on a custom supercharger specs the whole 9 yards spent like a half hour getting it all right...

Its estimation was (AT THE FLYWHEEL)... On 6lbs of boost 386HP @5500RPM and the shocker was over 400 ft lb of torque, And N/A no boost 312HP i think and mid 300 in torque i don't remember that one for sure. So who knows what it will actually do I'm not set on a certain number i want or what my goal is just seeing what happens at this point ANYTHING has to be better then 160HP stock.... I had guess 250-275RWHP with current boost... definetly getting meth injection asap, and maybe 10lb pulleys when i know everything is stable. Then i'm just going to have fun.
 
#270 ·
brock1949 said:
Its estimation was (AT THE FLYWHEEL)... On 6lbs of boost 386HP @5500RPM and the shocker was over 400 ft lb of torque, And N/A no boost 312HP i think and mid 300 in torque i don't remember that one for sure. So who knows what it will actually do I'm not set on a certain number i want or what my goal is just seeing what happens at this point ANYTHING has to be better then 160HP stock.... I had guess 250-275RWHP with current boost... definetly getting meth injection asap, and maybe 10lb pulleys when i know everything is stable. Then i'm just going to have fun.
!!!!!:eek: :eek: hey brock, if those head make anything close to that much power i'm copying your setup exactly, if those numbers are anywhere close to accurate i may overshoot my HP target with 15lbs. Thats awsome if thats what you get man, keep us posted.

Oh BTW, do have a place that can dyno your engine? would love to see real numbers at the flywheel.
 
#271 ·
Well a quick update,
Got a ton of stuff done today, alot more had to be messed with then i thought before the truck was ready to start. After about a half hour of messing with mounting msd and coil i said screw it coolant tank was coming out, once i got it out i had all the room in the world to get the MSD and stuff mounted. I will put in a hidden catch can behind the bumper or somewhere hidden stupid like later.

Next the line from the supercharger to the TBI that the kit used to come with sucks @ss, i told him it needed to be a 90 to truely get away from everything i don't think he did it for the new kits but reguardless went to hearnes performance shop about 2 blocks away from my garage and they had some awsome 3 inch PERFECTLY bent tubing, after cutting it down to rough size and test fitting everything its 110% better. Wait till you guys see the pic cleans up the whole deal 110%.

So after cutting and crimping some new wires to go the distance between the coil and distributor( which i wasen't crazy about how far between the dist and coil but the guy from MSD told me awhile back it didn't mater people mounted them inside the cars and all over the place) Got the ignition all done.

Took car of a million random things like holes in the intake needed plugged, working on vacum lines, valve covers, connecting harness, etc etc,... Its looking mean as hell, when you first look under the hood you don't know what the hell your seeing a supercharged carb, or what.... with all the clutter gone and random crap in general gone it really looks good in there.

So now its done for the most part... It was 1am and we walked out only needing to add oil, oil filter, coolant, tranny fluid, couple vacum lines, and find some bolts for the fan shroud one of my lacky freinds lost... lol,... AND its time, tommorow moring well in a couple hours i am going back and going to get it running..!!! WISH ME LUCK... hope to god everything is all good.

Also i did find a dyno... well dyno(s) I am i guess in a hot spot for them.. go figure. Mustang dynos are made about 20-30 minutes from my house, Also i have a 248X dynojet dyno 18 miles from my house... lol who knew.. best of all 50 bucks for 3 runs. So ya i will have some real numbers here Gtech and dynojet and probably mustang dyno also, I talked to mustang dyno directly the actual company and he said he would set up a date to run it at the factory lol.
 
#273 ·
ITS RUNNING !!! !! ! ! ! !

Tonight about a hour ago everything was ready, Tried.. no luck battery was weak... or so we though. Then after hooking up 2 optima red tops roughly 2000 amps and still was turning off all the lights and turning off wideband when it turned over.

So ben... Growns10 on here,... He figured it out found a loose ground wire, 10-15 minutes later boom it was ready.

when it first started it only fired on a couple cylinders then instantly smoothed out to its new..rough idle. We ran it for a mater of seconds and shut it off so we could fill the tranny up more (did normal service on it so it was low on fluid) We got her topped off and went at it again, this time we let it run a minute.. sounds and smells amazing.... its hard to believe its all coming out of our truck,... VERY strong firing and idle. I mean its like it was firing so clean and hard it sounded great.

Now onto the concerns....At idle it was running 12.6-12.9 AF after it started getting warm it moved up to 13's then even hit 14's before i hit the gas to see what it would do, once i hit the gas and rev it up to 2000-2500 rpm it drops like mad to 10.2-11.6 AF then when you let go it goes back up again... So whats the deal what should it be at idle. I know its not supposed to be above say .. 12.5.12.7 under full throttle.

Next, its really kinda caming hard and shaking. I mean were talking the engine was really shaking at idle... showed me clearly my engine mounts were not in good shape... So whats the deal there, should this thing really be that rough ?.

Also i heard some tapping in the top end, just a hair out of one side, so it looks like i'll be doing some work on those as well.

Back to work on it tommorow and i'll take it out for a drive. But for now at least its running. !!!!!!!!!
 
#274 ·
It should be rich when it is cold, that is the startup enrichment. It will lean out to 14.7:1 when it is warm at part throttle. Full throttle should be aproximately 12-13, but probably closer to 12.

As far as it being rough, my truck is about as smooth as stock. You might have a rocker too tight or something.
 
#275 ·
How would a rocker too tight lead to it being rough? not that i don't think it can make it rough because i think it probably can and probably is to tight, just wondering how.
It seems to be between my methods of being told how to install the rockers non of them are that great. I was told by the engine building to tighten till i couldn't spin pushrod anymore then put a half turn on, now the guy from tbichips told me to spin it till i couldn't tighten it anymore then loosen it a quarter turn.
 
#276 ·
Doing rockers is a pain, and from the sounds of it you might have them too tight. When i did mine i tightened them untill i felt resistance on the pushrod, and took it an aditional 1/2 turn. They were not tight enough, but it was enough to get the engine going. Then i tightened them untill they stoped clacking, and haven't thought about it since.

Not sure if i answered the too tight question or not, but i will try to explain. If the rockers are too tight the valves will not close all the way. You have some leway with the hydraulic lifter though. Being too tight would be like putting a cam in with a lot of duration and overlap, so it would lope like crazy. Being too lose it would make some noise but it would be smooth. Because the valve starts to open later, and it makes the cam seem smaller duration wise.