Ahh cool thanks jessie, wasen't sure how they was going to play out. I hadn't even held the stuff near each other yet to see.

Now as for my pushrods, i measured everything, Factory pushrods are supposed to be 7.195 and whats really fun about that is the fact that no 2 of my stock pushrods were the same lenght all were off, some by alot, some slightly but not a single one the right lenght to the 1000th. In the mic it was visually clear how much off they were from one to another.

After putting the stock pushrod on the heads with the rockers etc, I painted the roller with marker and set it on the valve to see how it checked out, this put the mark so far out on the vavle under pressure it would have for sure gone off the valve, it was 3/4 off the valve or actually a little more with factory lenght.

Called comp for the 3rd time asking them what they recommended for the pushrod lenght, he told me to get one roughly .50-.100 longer but this was only after beating on him for 5-10 minutes of him saying your supposed to measure them.

So onto actually measuring them, after busting out my $11 trick flow adjustable pushrod i messed with it for probably half hour on 4 different cylinders and finaly came to the conclusion i needed a 7.106 lenght push rod. closest variable i could get was through Trick flow chromoly 7.100, which puts me dead in the mark i need to be.

Now this doesn't mean everyone needs a shorter pushrod or stockers won't work but, if you guys have aftermarket valves, shaved heads, different head gaskets, shaved decks, or different heads... you should at least take 5 minutes put market on the roller put it back on and see where it hits, it should be slightly off the center toward the intake side, under load it tavels outward as the rocker goes flat with lift. So if your to close to the edge toward the exhaust it will mess up the valve edge and roller, put more strain on the guides, cut down on power if it doesn't just come off of the valve completly.

Also while i was getting the freaking 87.00 push rods at summit i picked up a HVC II blaster coil for the 6 series and a cool little water neck for the intake that turns...

 

good deal brock, i am glad to see your taking your time and doing things right and not just throwing a bunch of stock and aftermarket parts together without checking. it will pay off in the end i am sure

 

Updates,... As of yesterday all of the pushrods, rockers, dynalocks, are all installed and ready to go. After spending 2-3 hours cleaning rockers and pushrods everything started looking pretty good. Those comp rockers are shipped with a packing greese/anti rust stuff thats really nasty. I spent a TON of time soaking them in thinner then drying them with the air compressor, then soaking them, then drying them until they were all super smooth and clean, Then i soaked them in new motor oil for a hour or two spinning the bearings every once and awhile.

Pushrods are pretty much the same story, machine shop told me this was the cause for most people problems in the valve terrain with stuff burning up or wearing out. Told me to check all the center drilled oil passages, to soak them in a solivent tank and blow them out a couple times. In the container i was cleaning them in i actually got metal shaving in there after cleaning the push rods. Since i had more pushrods then i needed i decided to go through all of them and toss a couple that were out of size by more then 3000ths or so. I ended up tossing 3 for being in the 7.110+ area and one more because the center drilled hole on one end was to small. So i ended up with 12 perfect pushrods, all cleaned, all 7.106-7.109 and with good oil passages.

it took about a hour or so to install all of the rockers, toward the end it was getting a little rough trying to accuratly turn over the engine with a wrench with those hard springs on. I would get it almost where i wanted and it would just start turning over by itself from spring pressure and get almost a full revolution in. However all things aside its freaking done, rockers etc installed.

I'll start posing pics on a site soon, I have been taking a crazy amount of pictures of each step more less.

 

Looks Good Little Buddy!

 

If you need the webspace to put it i can help you out

 

So your close now to starting this thing up again from what i see here or no?

 

With any luck, i will have it running tommarow... thats kinda a tall order but it might be possible if i can actually get in there and work on it, last couple days i've only gotten a hour or two a day between everything else going on.

Next hurdle besides actually getting everything back together on the new intake manifold and dealing with all the random things that are sure to be missing....

Fuel lines... i need to cut off the factory incoming and return line and put like a braided stainless going the rest of the way to the TBI. Also i would like to mount a fuel pressure gauge in there but not completly important at the moment... so any quick methods or pointers for setting up those type fuel lines? and the fittings that will screw into the TBI?

I also tried to post a quick page of pics but the damn cable modem was ungodly slow trying to transfer them, maybe i will stop by the office tommarow with a disc and copy it directly onto the freaking server...

 

Do whateaver it takes to get the pics up, i want to see them !!!!!!!!

 

PICS PICS PICS!!!! needs vids too!

 

I didn't bring the camera home but tommarow, i will and i will post pics on a site and give you guys a link.

Alright ... updates...
The edelbrock headers are of amazing quality and worth every penny well maybe , i will craw under the car with the camera and take pics of how well everything is engineered. I'm talking the headers are probably 6-8 inches longer maybe more then stock, making the y pipe shorter distances before it goes into the collector which they did a awsome job on. These headers like barley make it through everywhere, they made them as long as possible, if it was any longer they would hang below everything. The over all fit was amazing it ended up putting the collector perfectly center of the cat bolt down housing which i know it should... but still never expected it to be like that.

I tried to bolt down the intake manifold, however i ran into more 2114 to vortech head problems...After looking at the heads, bolts, and intake and old intake it was clear the bolts weren't going to work but no one looked at that so we put the intake on the engine to find i had no where near the right bolts, so does anyone know the specs for the stock intake bolts for a 96+ truck or anywhere i could get them?

Next problem was the fuel lines, they don't line up right to where the tbi will be on the 2114 and i broke off the return line taking it off, autozone had replacement sections of fuel lines with the couplers required to tie into the lines where you take them off, so basicaly i am going to cut the lines back where they are straight and bend them to where the TBI will sit on the 2114.

Final upcoming problems... I'm sure random vacum lines, Water lines to heater etc etc, i am going to have to make a plate that bolts to coolant tank to hold the 6al and the monster coil i have and run all the wires for that. Next problem i see coming is throttle and transmission cables etc .... i don't know how thats going to work out yet going to have to look it over... Also wherever the hell the dipstick used to bolt to the heads block or where ever is gone... going to fab a small plate to use the hole above the first cylinder.

Also got my timing cover on, jesus, what a pain.. ended up trimming a little of the metal on the inside lip on each edge so i didn't just destroy the gasket putting that thing in. ...

Ya if things go well .. tommorow or sunday it will drive out,... however someone has qued the BS so odds and ends and random drives all over the place getting parts is slowing me down big time.

 

Alright some quick updates, got the intake on with some 5/16 1.5" grade 8 bolts, i will check for sure, got the holley adapter on it... couple things i didn't notice, but the holes are for a 454 2" bores, which is ALMOST a problem, if it was off by a 1/8 or so more it would leak, from the wide tbi barrels and smaller tbi from the 4.3-5.7 tbi, and it looks so far like its going to clear the factory hood with the s/c bonnet.

Working on fuel lines right now, not going to bad. Looks like the tbi throttle cables are going to be fine, however the cruise is going to take a little work still nothing to bad...At this point its safe to say this is no where near a bolt on project, takes some ...umm creative work, nothing to bad but you'll see.

 

lol redneck ingenuity is what we call it here where we live lol. Thats the way it has to be done though.

 

brock, where did you get those manifold bolts?

 

hey only have a second, truck is 98% done about 1 hr of wiring and a trip to summit and she comes alive....

jessie those bolts came from tractor supply co or tsc local farm store about a mile from my garage, just grade 8;s which factory was 5...only a couple bucks with the washers worked perfect if you cant find some let me know and ill send ya some. i have been replacing bolts like a mad man i hate messed up bolts ...lol

 

yeah if you got any extras i'll take em

 

All this work now is going to pay off next winter if you decide to tear the engine out to do the bottom end. Can't wait for them pics.

 

oh yeah i forgot to ask you one more thing. how far away are you from summit again? i need a just two more 4an anodized fittings for my turbo oil feed line. they are only a few bucks, but summit wants to charge me 10$ for handling charges i was hoping you could pick them up for me next time you were there and send them to me. let me know, i may have you pick up some other stuff too

 

I am at summit about once a week, its horrible, maybe 30 minutes from my house, and the main place i work i drive within 5-10 minutes of it couple days a week...

PICS are UP !!!!!

http://truck.accuson.net/

There is a good deal of random pics of different stages, different parts, areas all kinda stuff. Even growns10 from this forum over helping out .

I think i got enough extra bolts to send ya 8 and washers, not a problem. And let me know about the summit stuff i could probably pick it up later this week.

 

All i can say is way to go. That looks awesome.4 Pages of pictures well worth the wait. Good work. Wow. Keep em coming when you get more.

 

And as far as ripping it out next winter, its going to depend on how everything goes here. I did some more searching and after talking to a couple shops and sy/ty people its sounding like those pistons i have might be my saving grace, as long as i don't go past 6000 rpms, don't run it lean, and don't go past ..general agreement was 14-16lbs of boost it should be fine. And odly enough every shop and person i have talked to has told me 450hp!!

So i dunno i am after 250-350RWHP and 8-12lbs of boost or whenever it feels right. I have some stuff in the works that should put me there by the april area... just want to get everything tunned at 4lbs, however after talking to wynjammer today i might actually have 6lbs of boost...he was convinced i did but i don't know yet.

And last note, I have decided to try running the truck without the blower at first. I want to see first off how it runs before i start forcing air in, IF its running good enough see whats she's got all motor, and if its running good enough again i'll gtech it. Then i will put the blower belt back on and start the party.

 

thanks s10blazerman4x4 i actually have a TON more pics but just alot of random bs i kinda sorted through them to get the general idea of each section. I used to do alot of jeep conversion projects and got used to documenting each step and taking lots of pics..

I'll keep em coming...

In the final quarters...

That link again

http://truck.accuson.net/

 

i for one liked the beer can and coil.typical of what gets guys through

 

hey brock have you got the valve covers yet? if not check out the ones at www.raceprovenmotors.com they are really not that bad priced. wow PICS!!! hahaha now we want VIDS and dyno stats, I luved the pic with all the new toys ina a christma pile

why did you get the HVC II coil pack? i'm curious, is it for multiple discharge? cuz i have the red blaster pack, whats the diff?

now all you need to do is get some dish 8.0:1 pistons, get the crank treated, get nodular mains and a 15lbs pully, or hehehe, 2 wynjammers! and run that thing at 20lbs and 500HP!!!!!!!!! :nuts: :evilg: :scary:

then spend 5 grand trying to get it to the ground :rotf:

 

zeldalord, I ended up getting edelbrock polished aluminum valve covers, local junk yards wanted 25-50 dollars for freaking 15 year old valve covers which i almost paid 25 for a set but just couldn't bring myself to spend 25 for something rusty 17 years old and going ontop of like 1000-1200 in heads.... So i got the edelbrocks at summit i had a 20 dollar off card they send me like once a month for donating my paycheck weekly to them so i ended up paying like 80 bucks for them.

Now onto why i paid 100 for a 8253 coil...I have a MSD 6al for the truck that i got brand new in the box for 50 dollars... long story but i got it for 50 bucks, I called MSD talked to a tech there, who was by far the smartest, nicest, quickest tech i have ever talked to. I told him my application and what was going on and he told me the factory replacment coil is pretty weak for something boosted, the higher the boost the harder it is to make a good spark, then if you start spraying water and meth it kinda gets even harder, so he told me he would cut out all the horse play to go straight to maxing out my 6 series, told me that was the most powerful, fastest, longest lasting coil a 6 series could run. Which if you compare the specs between all the msd coils once you hit the HVC's they really pull out the stops 44,000 volts for 450us, at 450ma, with a primary resistance of .16 ohms. Which basicaly means mate it to a good spark plug (went with tr55) and you can still get a good gap, good spark with lots of power, and then have a blazing fast refresh time. Will it pay off? ... god only knows, i mean how the heck am i supposed to know what worked and what doesn't when i am putting all this on at once? lol

But when you lift a 4lb coil thats as tall as a beer can and its only another 40 bucks then the stock Gm msd coil... you gotta get it.

And as far as the pistons the compression ratio doesn't seem toooo bad, i think i mentioned this but my cousin who worked for a chevy garage for couple years was working on it and had a factory manuel and looks like they are the pistons out of the HD motor which acording to the book at either 8.6 or 8.9, which isn't the best but its better then mid to high 9's. But in the end, i was out looking at blocks last week when i was near a junkyard thats mostly all chevy, he has a core pile with probably 5-7 good 4.3 non balance shaft blocks for only 50 bucks each, (with the damn valve covers or 25 just for the valve covers.... how dumb he told me he sells a TON of those valve covers, which in his defense, a ton of motors were missing valve covers...odd.)

vbmenu_register("postmenu_3016244", true);

 

yeah brock if you could do that for me that would be great. just let me know next time your on your way to summit and i'll give you the part numbers. send me some of those bolts too. just let me know how much and i'll paypal you