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How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80

348K views 711 replies 145 participants last post by  Scottie0308  
#1 ·
Here is a little write up/explanation on how to swap your stock CS130D alternator for an AD244 alternator off of most of the full size trucks.

For those of you that NEED a bigger alternator, weather it be because of off-road accessories (winches, lights, etc) or because you need the extra amperage due to a bigger sound system, you would probably upgrade to an aftermarket alternator to meet your needs. Well, unless you are paying $300+ for a built alternator with a good stator and regulator put in, you will loose voltage at idle when you purchase the upgraded one. This is where most people have their concern, especially you off-road guys.

For example, when you put a 160 amp stator in a stock CS130D (4.3L) case, you will get the 160 amps, but only at about 1000 engine RPM's. Our 4.3L's idle at ~550-600, so the output is a lot less, voltage and amperage. I've found that my "built" CS130D only put out 45 amps and 12.8v at idle, when I needed a LOT more than that to keep my lights from dimming at idle.

So, our goal here is to get output (amperage and voltage) at idle as well as our required output at speeds greater than idle. With the AD244, you can have the best of both worlds.

*You can pick up a used AD244 alternator from your local junkyard for ~$40-$50, depending on mileage/condition*

The AD244 alternator came off of several full size pickups, from different years. There were two versions of the alternator made, a 130A version and a 145A version. You can call your local junkyard/salvage yard and ask them what it came off of, how many miles are on it, and what version it is (130A or 145A). Here is a link to everything you need to know (including what vehicles it came off of) about the AD244 (thank juddspaintballs for the link)

http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/partimage.cfm?wai_num=1-2419-21DR

*The AD244 alternator will bolt right up to the stock alternator bracket on the 4.3L with NO modifications to the bracket. The only thing that is different is that you won't be using the 3rd bolt that is on the backside of the alternator. The CS130D has this, but the AD244 doesn't. You won't have any troubles with the bolt not being there.*

*The AD244 uses the same wire harness as the CS130D. It is a plug-and-play application.*

Now, I know what you guys are thinking..... "well dude, I need wayy more than 145 amps." That's what I was thinking too when I was doing this mod. I've got a decent sized sound system in the truck and some aftermarket fog lights on my safari bar, so I needed the extra amperage.

Bench tests have proven this alternator to put out 200+ amps at idle when cold. Yes, that's right, at idle.

When the alternator is warm it will easily put out 100 amps at idle,which is way better than the CS130D which is only capable of producing ~40 amps at idle.

It is a slightly underrated alternator (you audio guru's out there know what the term 'underrated' means and how it compares to the quality of a product). I can crank my system to the max and have no voltage issues with it when I'm at idle. I'll maintain a 14v and my lights don't dim.

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Now that you have the alternator, you'll be needing a longer belt. I can't say how long of a belt you'll be needing, but the stock one won't work. If you DO get the stock belt to work (some have) I STRONGLY don't recommend it. It will put a bigger strain on the bearings in the alternator and can cause premature failure. It's worth the extra $35 for a new belt.

*You will need a belt that is 1"-1.5" longer than stock. For some reason, the lengths of belts changed from year to year (even 98+) so you'll have to do a little bit of math and figure it out on your own :p *

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I also highly recommend doing the "Big 3" upgrade when doing the AD244 mod. Stock wiring CAN take the 200+amps that the AD244 puts out, but if you are having problems with it, then it is probably the wiring.

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Here are some pictures of my AD244 in action:

Output at idle with just my headlights on:

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Output at IDLE with my system cranked to the max:

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Output at IDLE with all accessories on (all 4 headlights [quad beam mod], a/c on MAX with fans at #3, fog lights, and my system cranked to the max:


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13.96 can be lower than most would like to be.... but a stock CS130D would be gasping for air if I was treating it like that.

So, if I had things my way, every s10/blazer would have an AD244 as their alternator, even if they have a stock electrical system.
 
#327 ·
I know that it was said it could be done, but no one has come to say they actually did it yet, but I just installed an ad244 on my 89 Blazer. There were some mods necessary tho.

1: had to drill out the hole in the alternator bracket
2: had to get a bolt, lock washer, and nut for said hole
3: ordered this (can be done online, but I got mine at autozone, still had to be ordered in tho)
4: have to protect the battery post on the alt from touching the air cleaner(which i am inside taking a break and then will go do)


Already tested it, and it works great. Gonna put it to real testing later.
 
#328 ·
Wanted to add....not sure if its just an anomaly with my Blazer, or if its different for the 1st gens, but I had to get a belt that was 2.5" longer than stock. With the 1.5" longer one I couldn't get the belt on the tensioner.


Also: I am now getting ~107 amps at idle when hot. :woot:
 
#332 · (Edited)
I've got a Blazer now with a 4.3, I may order that 200a Napa alt... if I don't buy an actual high output alt.

I am trying to figure out how to do a dual alt while keeping the a/c..

Oh. What about putting an overdrive pulley on one of these alts?
 
#334 ·
A 200A alternator would be a high output alternator.....

As far as the overdrive pulley goes..... the life of the alternator can potentially be shortened. Just remember, it might not be a very big step at 800-1000 RPM's, but at 4k RPM's, that alternator is gonna be spinning its ass off, so just keep that in mind.

finally getting a AD244 "built" he said the biggest he can go is 220 amps :)
I've seen a kit for 320A, but 220 might have better output at idle.
 
#336 ·
to follow up with the pm.....yea I used the center two wires only. What I got was exactly like the pic in the link.
 
#339 ·
Key thing on a high amp rebuilt kit is to remember if it doesn't include a new stator its not gonna put out higher amps at lower speeds (like idle).
 
#340 ·
That's the entire reason I (we) went to the AD244, was idle output with 145A at peak output.

If you can explain to me (us) just exactly WHY or HOW idle output suffers with high output alternators, then I would greatly appreciate it (and might give you a cookie :p).
 
#341 ·
And that one does have a new stator that comes with the kit.

But I still question it's output at idle though:


Heavy Duty Rectifier
- 50A, 13mm press-fit avalanche diodes
- Crimp-weld diode terminations
- M8 battery terminal has unique screw-down collar to accept early & late design regulators


50 amps?

I know that idle output isn't going to be as much as full tilt output, but why does the amperage go from 100A (stock AD244) to potentially 50A (in the high output alternator).

I'd be willing to bet that the voltage won't be 14.4v at idle either.

Feel free to prove me wrong, but have reasoning behind it.
 
#343 ·
Ok I'm pretty sure I just got hosed. I bought an alternator off eBay for a "2002 Suburban". I received it today and the plug aims out the back of the alternator, there is no black case ring and the back reads BOSCH 130 ncb1 14v - 125 amp. I'm assuming this is some kind of after marker CS130 and I just got railed?
 
#344 ·
got any pics?

Bosh is not a factory GM alt that I'm aware of.
 
#347 ·
Looks almost like a ad244 (thats seen better days) except for the rear. First for me tho, I've never seen one like that.
 
#348 ·
I'm highly confused by the 125 amp rating, the 130 stamping, and the general build of the alternator. It has GM on it in a few places, but nothing cast into the housing. I included the width to show how big it was, is it possibly a cs130d? I don't mind if it's a Bosch AD244 but I didn't buy a cs130, I bought an AD244 and want to make sure that's what I have.
 
#352 · (Edited)
14 volts is just what the reg is set at and a alt should never read above that (unless it is indeed a racing 16volt model but thats another ballgame).

VVVAll numbers just pulled out of thin air and shouldn't be used for anything more than me trying to explain something.VVV

If the alt is being taxed this voltage will drop as the alt heats up and the performance drops. This often happens with the smaller factory alts installed on vehicles with greater than factory loads. Take a s-series for example. The factory alt is rated at 105 amps, just say the stock electrical draw is 103 amps (number out of thin air as I don't remember the exact one). The factory load is less than the alts amp rating but real close to matching it. This means the factory alt is just barely capable of handling the factory load. This is also in ideal conditions and temps. The engine bay with the heat, oil, and water is about one of the worse places any electrical component can be placed. With that being said say the engine bay stays at 100 degrees (fictional figure) the alt de-rates from 105 to exactly 103. You add more electrical load (that nice fancy stereo you always wanted) you jump the load to 120amps. The alt will try to keep up but start over heating and its output gets even worse. As this happens the battery takes up the slack and this is why you see the volts drop.

^^^All numbers just pulled out of thin air and shouldn't be used for anything more than me trying to explain something.^^^


Voltage readings give you somewhat a clue the alt is not big enough but shouldn't be used solely as a testing measure.
Truth be known damn near ever alternator out there in an ideal environment with ideal conditions should put out 14.4 volts at any RPM.
 
#356 · (Edited)
Well I don't know if any of the guys in this thread have ever put a ad244 alternator on a 2.2 s10 before, but I did this today.

I got the alternator for $10 at a local junkyard, my buddies dad knows them quite well as he is a mechanic, so they hooked me up.

First off will say this is NOT a direct bolt on for the 2.2, there was some major cutting/grinding of the side of the alternator and had to drill the holes out a tad larger to make it fit. I bought a 1" longer belt thinking I would need it. Turns out i grinded it just right, the stock belt fits on great! went right on.

Will get more pics of the alternator tomorrow when it is daylight, but i just got this finished,took me a while, cause i wanted it all to look nice and smooth. So far the alternator works GREAT, I am going to drive the truck more tomorrow and will post my results.

here are some crappy night sell phone pics just for shits and giggles. It is getting painted tomorrow or the next day, i wire brushed it good tonight.

enjoy.
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compared to the stocker you can see in this pic a little

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#358 ·
thats what i was thinking man, i told my brother, i was like dude, im the first one to put a ad244 on a 2.2 s10, hell yea. he was like oh? cool:haha:

i saw that one on the cavi, but i never saw on on a s10.. Will get more pics tomorrow after its all painted and cleaned up and daylight.

thanks man, I will post pics of the grinding/cutting i had to do to make it fit, wasn't much to me, it was so well worth it, best 10 dollars i ever spent on my truck.
 
#360 ·
all i can tell them is be ready to have their grinder ready :haha:

im going to put a stock 105 amp in the stock ac location tomorrow or the next day= so that will be 250amps of power. that should be enough power to keep my 1200rms going and my massive dc7500 compressor, and my electric fan, and headlights going and then some :haha:

will post more pics of the install tomorrow
 
#362 ·
Well guys, as promised,the dual alternator mod is complete. I am running 1 ad244 large case in the stock location, and 1 cs130d in the stock ac compressor location. Turns out one of the bolts was a direct line up, just needed a nut on the back, i did have to grind say 1/4" from the housing on the right side of the cs130d, that made that side of the alternator pulley line up with the rest of the accessories, made a small custom bracket out of some 1/4" stock, and drilled 2 holes in it, and mounted that up. Got a belt from part store for 14.99. Had a 4 pin connector already here at the house, along with the wiring for the alternator. For right now, i am running 8 guage wiring from the cs130d to my distribution block. the ad244 has 0 guage wiring from the back of the alternator to 1ft in front of it to the dist block.

Truck runs great, no lag or anything, I get 14.4-14.5 volts at idle cold or warm - and a constant 14.4v all the way through the rpm range.

On the 4-5pin connector whatever it is, there is 1 red wire, i cut it and soldered another wire to that wire, and ran it over to the other alternator, and had a 4-5pin connector laying here, just a standard 1 wire one, soldered it on there, and heat shrinked it, easy as pie.

enough the talk, onto the pics.

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#364 ·
Its all cool but one thing I don't understand. If you were gonna add the factory one back to it why even move it? Why didn't you make one custom bracket and just add the AD244 to where the AC was?

I can understand if it was for height clearances or what not but it looks like you had the room and just done double the work.

Very cool still, good to see more of us running 2 alts. I've got my 2nd one removed right now but I put it down where the AIR pump is on a 1st gen. Right under the factory one so unless you know what you are looking at my bay still looks somewhat stock, lmao
 
#366 ·
The AD244 wouldn't line up with the stock grooves without major cutting/grinding and fabricating of a bracket system for it to work, so i made it fit in the stock location as it WAS EASIER to mount there, the cs130d took a very minimal amount of work to put in the stock ac location, 1 bracket, some grinding to get the grooves to line up good, and thats it. works like a charm.

Like it or not, this is highly functional, the best $25 mod I've ever done to this truck right here.

My trucks lights do not flicker one bit even with the heater on 4, electric fan on, system going full blast, or the massive air compressor going.