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How To: High Output AD244 Alternator for ~$80

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348K views 711 replies 145 participants last post by  Scottie0308  
#1 ·
Here is a little write up/explanation on how to swap your stock CS130D alternator for an AD244 alternator off of most of the full size trucks.

For those of you that NEED a bigger alternator, weather it be because of off-road accessories (winches, lights, etc) or because you need the extra amperage due to a bigger sound system, you would probably upgrade to an aftermarket alternator to meet your needs. Well, unless you are paying $300+ for a built alternator with a good stator and regulator put in, you will loose voltage at idle when you purchase the upgraded one. This is where most people have their concern, especially you off-road guys.

For example, when you put a 160 amp stator in a stock CS130D (4.3L) case, you will get the 160 amps, but only at about 1000 engine RPM's. Our 4.3L's idle at ~550-600, so the output is a lot less, voltage and amperage. I've found that my "built" CS130D only put out 45 amps and 12.8v at idle, when I needed a LOT more than that to keep my lights from dimming at idle.

So, our goal here is to get output (amperage and voltage) at idle as well as our required output at speeds greater than idle. With the AD244, you can have the best of both worlds.

*You can pick up a used AD244 alternator from your local junkyard for ~$40-$50, depending on mileage/condition*

The AD244 alternator came off of several full size pickups, from different years. There were two versions of the alternator made, a 130A version and a 145A version. You can call your local junkyard/salvage yard and ask them what it came off of, how many miles are on it, and what version it is (130A or 145A). Here is a link to everything you need to know (including what vehicles it came off of) about the AD244 (thank juddspaintballs for the link)

http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/partimage.cfm?wai_num=1-2419-21DR

*The AD244 alternator will bolt right up to the stock alternator bracket on the 4.3L with NO modifications to the bracket. The only thing that is different is that you won't be using the 3rd bolt that is on the backside of the alternator. The CS130D has this, but the AD244 doesn't. You won't have any troubles with the bolt not being there.*

*The AD244 uses the same wire harness as the CS130D. It is a plug-and-play application.*

Now, I know what you guys are thinking..... "well dude, I need wayy more than 145 amps." That's what I was thinking too when I was doing this mod. I've got a decent sized sound system in the truck and some aftermarket fog lights on my safari bar, so I needed the extra amperage.

Bench tests have proven this alternator to put out 200+ amps at idle when cold. Yes, that's right, at idle.

When the alternator is warm it will easily put out 100 amps at idle,which is way better than the CS130D which is only capable of producing ~40 amps at idle.

It is a slightly underrated alternator (you audio guru's out there know what the term 'underrated' means and how it compares to the quality of a product). I can crank my system to the max and have no voltage issues with it when I'm at idle. I'll maintain a 14v and my lights don't dim.

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Now that you have the alternator, you'll be needing a longer belt. I can't say how long of a belt you'll be needing, but the stock one won't work. If you DO get the stock belt to work (some have) I STRONGLY don't recommend it. It will put a bigger strain on the bearings in the alternator and can cause premature failure. It's worth the extra $35 for a new belt.

*You will need a belt that is 1"-1.5" longer than stock. For some reason, the lengths of belts changed from year to year (even 98+) so you'll have to do a little bit of math and figure it out on your own :p *

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I also highly recommend doing the "Big 3" upgrade when doing the AD244 mod. Stock wiring CAN take the 200+amps that the AD244 puts out, but if you are having problems with it, then it is probably the wiring.

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Here are some pictures of my AD244 in action:

Output at idle with just my headlights on:

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Output at IDLE with my system cranked to the max:

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Output at IDLE with all accessories on (all 4 headlights [quad beam mod], a/c on MAX with fans at #3, fog lights, and my system cranked to the max:


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13.96 can be lower than most would like to be.... but a stock CS130D would be gasping for air if I was treating it like that.

So, if I had things my way, every s10/blazer would have an AD244 as their alternator, even if they have a stock electrical system.
 
#661 ·
WoW , im impressed. this worked perfectly. 98 s10 4.3 X code. i got lucky and got the alternator on ebay for $57 + $15 shipping and the 4060970 belt. flawless install. not only that, but my neighbor pointed out something to me i never knew or noticed. the tension pully actually has a mark on top that shows you the area the tension pulley should be in. it was dead center. it tested 150 amps at hot idle. THANKS FOR THIS POST !!!!!!!
 
#667 ·
thats the one i got , but the ad is wrong, its stamped 150 and it does 150 at idle.

i would not get too uptight about what it's stamped or advertised as. its a definite improvement all around from the stock 105.
mine's been in for couple of weeks now, running great, thumping my bazzoka tubes just fine.
i actually did not get mine for the amps so much as i did for the bigger bearings and brushes. tired of buying a new one for mine every 2-3 years. i am hoping this will last 5+ years. my truck sits a lot too, things get rusted and corroded fast from sitting
 
#668 ·
ad244 is a style not a model number. the link i sent you is about the best price you will find. look at the ad, it lists what models it fits and cross reference part numbers. do the research like i did.

if still nervous, spend a few more bucks and get it from amazon. returns are sooooooooooooo easy with amazon. you simply put it back in the box, print the return label and tape it to box. most of the time, they even send ups back to your house, sometimes they want you to drop it off at a ups location.
 
#671 ·
That looks like the one - BUT - is it a genuine Delphi/GM part? From the above 14 pages it seems the new replacements use a different voltage regulator which may or may not be as good as the original.

You should be able to pick up a used genuine one from a salvage yard for half the price. As always your mileage may vary.
 
#670 ·
Read all fourteen pages - and learned a couple of things.

First I did the AD244 to my 97 S10 4.3l - works just like it should!

This is all for a 1997 S10 - others may/will vary.

Got mine from a salvage yard and it is a genuine Delphi 145A has the engraved ID. Took it to Autozone and had them check it, it passed. That way I could take it back and replace it if needed. No need to try it on my truck and find out it's condition.

The belt issue - I had in the past few months replaced mine so it was a good belt, the AD244 fit, though the tensioner was tighter than I liked.

So I got a smaller diameter idler pulley from Autozone a 231098 for $11.99 (Dayco #89098). It worked and the tensioner is right in the middle of it's travel. Told the guy I needed that part number, he asked what it was for, told him riding lawn mower deck, they can't look that up!

The standard pulley is 90mm (3.54in) in diameter. The 231098 is 76mm (2.99in) in diameter.

Want one even smaller try the Zones 231052 (Dayco #89052) $14.99, it is 70mm (2.75in) in diameter. Can not say this will fit as I have not tried it.

Note that the tensioner pulley is 70mm in diameter if your thoughts are that a 70mm will be too small.

Changing the idler pulley was cheaper than replacing the belt.

Then I thought about the belt issues that some folks are having and I wonder if the idler pulley on their trucks is the correct size or not?

This is another way to fine tune the belt tension if you feel the need.

Just my three cents.
 
#678 ·
im gonna have to revamp my reply to this. everything is right except the belt.
i tried one size bigger gatorback belt. while engine was not running, the tension marks were just barely within spec marks. when engine was running, the belt was too lose and outside tension marks or tension pulley.

with a couple cuss words, i was able to get the new OEM size gatorback belt on. when engine is running, it is perfectly centered on belt tension marks for the tension pulley.

basically, you cant go by what looks or feels right. go by the tension marks on the tension pulley, WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING.
 
#681 ·
Thanks to all of you who have provided a lot of great information.

My OEM alternator kicked the bucket at 160k miles. I went to O'Rielly auto parts to get a remanufactured Ultima stock alternator.

Well after a few days, i noticed these voltage drops while coming to a stop. usually happened more at night with the headlights on, heater running, clutch in, and braking at the same time. It would drop from 14.5 down to like 10 or 11 volts. My lights and everything dimmed.

After thinking the issue was the new alternator, I returned it and got another one. Same issue came up again. Finally i convinced them to exchange for a NEW one..... Same thing again and that was as of last night.

Finally I found this thread this morning and swapped it out for a new AD244 for an 2002 Tahoe. it was easy to swap in and got a longer belt.

So far so good and I only had one voltage drop tonight.... It only happened after running the blower motor....

It's got me thinking that something is going on in the electrical system.
 
#684 ·
That's sick, wish I had the extra money. I've killed my battery while winching with the truck idling to the point where the motor died. And I have an AD244!
 
#687 ·
Yes I would say so you will not see the full benefit of the upgrade what accessories are you running what size are you going to. And how long u waiting for the big three. I had no choice on mine because mine is a 320 amp Max and over 250 amp at idle with more accessories than you can count and in running 2/0 cable
 
#690 ·
Anyone replace their A/C pump with an alternator on a 1st gen 4.3? I'm thinking about doing this for my plow truck. Every time I move the blade too much, all the lights dim and if I don't give it throttle the truck will stall. I don't need A/C in a plow truck, and I'm thinking of hooking up the plow and lights to it's own electrical system (similar to what I had in my truck before the engine swap)