on both my trucks with 2/3 drops (97 with blocks/springs and 95 with blocks/spindles) they sat the exact same way yours is, its about an inch or two higher in the front. dont ask me why, possibly sagging springs but they dont seem too worn. I have to go with a 4 inch up front and 3 in the rear to level them and the springs WERE seated properly, i made sure if it and the spindles were brand new and i installed them myself

 

Hey, i just checked and the passenger side coil actually is lined up correctly, its gonna be a hard pic to get but ill see if i can ake a snapyou have to look in the middle left of the first pic, i think its off by a little bit, i wonder if these are actually ZQ8 front springs because i just found out last week that my truck is indeed an extreme and has the ZQ8 package, maybe the original owner stripped it of the body kit and put on stock springs, i know for a fact the rear still has all the ZQ8 components

 

Welp i take back what i said, that was a piece of the insulator...

 

wtf is all that silver crap on your suspension/chassis?

 

is it me or do the balljoints look flipped?

 

because of the sway bar, if one side is higher than the other it will raise the lower side up soom too so it makes it look like its not as low as it should be.
my brother put 2in block in the rear of his jimmy to raise it up. we finished the one side and both sides were higher and didnt realize it was higher so we just took it back out cause we didnt think it worked. we should of measured first.

 

wtf are you talking about? English, please. What does his swaybar have to do with it and why are you talking about lifting a Leaf Over Axle setup? How does that apply here? This is droppin-it and we use leaf under axle... thus blocks lower it.

 

The sway bar is always trying to level the truck out so if one side is higher it will try and pull the other side up. Thats why i talked about my broher lifting his jimmy. He only had the one side done and both were higher cause the sway bar was trying to level it.

 

Ok guys, i talked to the guy that installed my drop kit and upper tubular control arms, he said he didnt have to pull the spring, and said that he just left the floor jack under it, when i got my ball joints replaced in december i did notice that the ones that were bad had been replaced with Moog parts, maybe the installer of those didnt install it right. Also everyone that i keep talking too about removing the coil springs with a floor jack is totally against the idea lol, i dont know what to fking dooooo!! I want to fix everything 2mrw but i dont want to die from the spring popping out, te mechanic told me that he uses a floor jack to remove springs but that i have to know what im doing or it will pop out... Im pretty sure the springs are in incorrectly though because i feel a gap between the bttom of the coil and the actual seat and all i can see through the LCA drain holes is just the worn insulator...

 

upper ball joints are in wrong and i take out coil springs with a floor jack all the time.

 

Lol how are they in wrong? I love how my trucks coming together, such a joy -_-

 

^^^ lol just noticed that....

 

Use a floor jack - dont be such a poon. Do It. I did mine that way. Just very slowly release pressure, not too fast or it'll slip. (kidding, unless you're a complete idiot you'll be perfectly safe - have the jack pointing to the F or R just incase... dont stand facing the wheel well)

 

Yeah guys i got it out, thing is i cant get the damn thing back in, i cant get it in the seat all the way, im gonna rent a spring compressor from oreilly i think that may help

 

it will help. Thats how you do it.

 

yeah i kept trying to tell this guy at oreillys that i needed a damn compressor \, he kept saying if i got it out with a floor jack that i could get it back in with one, is the internal one easy to use, and would it be easy for me to put it in once i have the comphttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Coil-spring-compressor/_/N-264t;jsessionid=6683A0F4BAC56748798313DF96A3CCAD.diyprod1-b2c2?itemIdentifier=555573_0_0_ressor on it ? this is the one im gonna rent

 

get a working link and I'll let you know.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ionid=6683A0F4BAC56748798313DF96A3CCAD.diyprod1-b2c2?itemIdentifier=555573_0_0_ yeah i just got really nervous trying to pry the spring in place with the jack, im not taking chances like that lol yeah but once its compressed should it just go into place no problem or would i still need to pry it in, btw how can i tell if i have authentic ZQ8 coil springs (1.5 factory drop ones)? im not sure what the previous owner did

 

The internal one is easy to use! Just slide it in the spring compress it put it back in the truck bolt every thing back up and take it out thew the lower shock opening. When I used the external one I compressed the spring test fitted it where I needed it and cut the threaded rod end off so I could get it in/out once I bolted things back up. But you would have to buy it if you cut it up but it worked

 

Yeah the new gray bell tech 2inch drop spindles are whats on it now, when i removed the hub and looked at the passenger spring, it wasnt clocked correctly, it wasnt even over the first hole, let alone between, heres a pic, would that throw it off, u can see the first hole, and that small amount of light in the middle right is the 2nd alignment/drain hole

 

Thats the compressor I used. Its great for 1 coil but the other one will fight more. (they coil opposite each other) I think (havent tested so im not sure) the dual hook-style internal compressor would be better because that plate on the rental is the part that causes problems. It slips off and makes a lot of noise and could potentially hit/damage your brake lines.