I had to grind on the second boss forward one the block to get mine to fit. lowering the diff is possible but a bit of a pain.

 

is that the milodon 4x4 pan?

 

How are you guys running your oil lines when using the milodon oil pan

 

Is it possible you have the left and right mixed up. Mine are marked left and right

 

I suppose its possible Are you using the CP mounts? I should have 4-5 hours tomorrow to try to manipulate it all... somehow.
My plan for tomorrow is to try and adjust the motor mount pads up on the frame, and possibly shim between the cradles and block for some height. Also gonna cut the boss off of the block as acehaag mentioned. Maybe somewhere in there I can Drop the diff a tad, or maybe scoot it to the driver side a hair. Hopefully I can do all of that and get in a test fit with the old body.

 

Yes I have the CP mount kit. Did you get the rubber part of the mount that mounts to the frame too. If you did yours look different than mine. I do know the ZR2 kit is different than the standard 4x4 My 4.3 is ready to pull out this weekend and see how the 5.3 fits

 

Not worth a shit

 

Did you have trouble getting the cradles around the mounts? I had to radius the edges to get them seated. I also slotted the holes I'm the motor mounts .250 to raise the engine a tad. That combined with cutting the bosses off the block mad a lil room between engine and diff.

 

I didn't have any problems with that. My problem is the rear of the head Is smashing my A/C heater box

 

here is a pic of what I had to do for clearance

 

Damn I wish I knew how to weld aluminum!!!

 

So now my busy work season is over, Im back to work on my awd swap! Finally got my engine sat where it is centered in the frame. I ended up dropping the rear mounts of the front diff by a little over .250". I just chopped off the ears for the rear 2 rear mounts, welded them back on, and re drilled new holes in the frame mounts.


I also took a little off the front diff, and countersunk allen head bolts in the case.


That and a little "attitude adjustment" on the oil pan allowed me clearance with the engine sitting nice and centered!

I am using C5 vette brackets... Turns out the ac compressor is a lot bigger than the truck compressor... I tried notching the frame, with no luck.



oh well, I put the pieces back in the frame, I'll be ordering the top mount compressor...

 

And a couple of pics of the real engine!
PRC heads


freshening up the ls6 bottom end


Gotta finish up the harness, then shes ready for her new home!

 

Nice build so far. Nice looking vette to lol

 

I wish my swap was awd! I will be following this closely.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Six bolt heads? Nice!

 

doesnt look like a 6 bolt block though

 

Nope but maybe a high rpm high flowing engine? I didn't know those would fit on a smaller bored block like fbodyguy said.

 

should still fit the block just won't be able to use the extra bolts near the exh manifolds

george

 

I was going to run some hand ported 241 heads... But I got my hands on the PRCs and a fast intake reasonably cheap! I'm not running a huge cam, pretty much a gm hot cam. I'm wanting down low torque. But good drivability too. Compression is 11:1.

 

So its been a while, but I have made some progress... Not a lot, but some! Got the ford 8.8 and sway bar in. Fuel system mostly done.





Still waiting on the rest of my upper control arms to be done. Just the parts for the buschings.






But, Im not at all happy with my milodon oil pan fittment... Mainly where the lines are exiting the pan for the remote filter. The front line, which is the outlet from the oil pump, is IMO dangerously close to the front diff, maybe 1/8" clearance,depending on how the hex is turned:





Im contemplating blocking off the front line on the pan, and instead catching it from the front oil gallery plug on the drivers side of the block. Earls sells and adapter to give a -6 connection. I noticed in one of Jared form CPs posts, he adapted down the -10 pan connections to -6. It just seems small when you look at the size of the gallerys in the block. Im thinking of running the -6 to the filter, and -8 out of the filter to the oil inlet on the rear fitting of the pan. Or should I just use all -6 line???

 

i like the control arms.

i wouldnt run less than a -10 line for the oil. if you HAVE to run smaller, you can make the most of it by using the shortest length possible and use all straight hose ends or 'full flow' type where you cant use straight.

 

Out of curiosity, is the 2WD trans tunnel (and corresponding engine centerline) offset towards the passenger side the same as the 4WD ? I am guessing it is since the steering shaft clearance situation seems the same on both. Seems like it would be worth verifying now since you are using a 2WD body.

Can't delete this comment, but just realized that since the 2WD trans mount is offset the same as 4WD (I measured both), obviously the tunnel is too.

 

Hmm, I didnt realize the 4wd was offset to the pass side. I used a Bravada cross-member with a new energy suspension trans mount. I bought the poly 4wd mounts and headers from Current Performance. And the Milodon pan from Jegs... Its all supposed to work together, but when I initially bolted it all up,my passenger header would not fit at all due to hitting the shock tower. Then engine sat 1/2" over to the pass side and was not sitting parallel in the frame. I ended up cutting the tabs off of the engine plates and welding new ones on to center the engine as well as raise it up some, so the pan would not be touching the diff... This allowed the headers to fit too. I had to massage the pan some still. Also lowered the rear cross-member about 5/8" to get the transfer case to not thouch the body... I called CP and he told me he never tried any of those parts on a first gen...

As for the bodys, they are identical as far as I can visually see. I havent taken and solid measurements though...

 

here's my clearance

 

more pics

 

more pics

 

I have an awd typhoon, the same 4x4 truck frame. the engine sits offset to pass side in stock form. I used RPM motor mounts, which are solids,and oil pan, I added an accusump for instant oil pressure. I did not like the long route the oil took before reaching the engine. ( out the front galley through the oil cooler through the filter then retuning to the rear galley to oil the engine, only took a matter of seconds for oil pressure to come up but I didn't like it) I used the 4l80e trans cross member which works with the motor mounts. the mounts sit 1" forward of stock, giving more firewall clearance which is needed.(lots of wiring back there) If I did it today I would use this oil pan,

Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 258
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Re: LS engine oil pans - all of them

Two pans I do not see mentioned for 4x4 swap.
the custom pan by RPM( syty)
and the modified pan by http://www.ebay.com/itm/Syclone-Typh...vip=true&rt=nc I use the rpm pan, requires plumbing the oil supply through galley ports, plumbing cost more than pan!
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SPARKWIRE , TYPHOON LSx TURBO twin gt35rs,2, turbosmart 45mm wg,2 raceport bov,3to4"exhaust,
no need for oil lines, no need for accusump and special fittings. the pics above are mine, the differential mount was modified to be removeable. so you can drop the diff straight down making removal a lot easier.

 

Sub'd. this should be bitchen!