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Fog lights...

1.9K views 26 replies 7 participants last post by  s10cyncrvr  
#1 ·
I want to get fog lights on my 2000 dime, 2.2L in the spot where on the 4.3L you have the towing hooks. anyone know any good foglights to get for that spot, and where i can get some? thanks!
 
#3 ·
greencactus3 said:
go to autozone and see what you want. most of the time they'll let you take it out to your truck and see if it fits or not.
ok, might do that today
 
#4 ·
Alright, here's what I did. I went to Walmart and got some about the right size, cost my 20 bucks, plus I got some wire conduit. The lights would not just slide in, I got my dremel and cut off the mounting bracket, the things to mount it to a puch bar, and wrapped them in electrical tape, leaveing some open because it was not water tight before, so I was worried about over heating. Then I noticed that I have a major problem when you put the LS bumper up, metal slides are blocking the way for the lights! I still haven't gotten them in yet, but it's possible to just screw them on in front of the metal slides that poke out, and the fog light stick out a little, well, actually they set even wth the outside of the bumper, but I would like to have them sunken in the bumper more. Not sure how close things are on the Base model valance, but my truck used to be the base model one, but I put the LS valance on it later.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, I think you'd have the some problem on the base model.

Well I got my fog lights all in and wired and all tucked and cleaned up. I like it. The switch is under my dash, since the light was so bright it distracted me up where the 4x4 is on the 4x4 models. Now when it's on at night it lights up my feet and all my pedals, handy if you drop something while driving at night. I just screwed the lights in, and started bolting the bumper back down, I heard some creaks from the lights since the metal that was sticking out was pushing on the lights, but it all bolted down, and it just flexed the valance to compensate for the lights there, I guess it took some of the curve from the valance out, can't notice at all. I'd like it to be flater anyway. But because I had to squeeze the lights into the towhook holes it kinda blocked off all ventilation to them. I let them run a good hour after they were in. They got really hot, and I could smell the electrical tape melting, but it didn't hurt anything else. Only the front lens gets hot, so just the tape near there melted. I'm not sure how to aim them, but them seem pretty clse now. I drove around at night just using the fogs, and could see, not as good as headlights of course. I'm happy with the end product, only complaint is, it's kind of annoying how they go dimmer when you press on the brakes. I ran the positive end into my fuse box, and pinched it in the big fuse labled "BAT" and grounded the switch in my dash near the steering colum, then each light is grounded through the two front bolts holding that plastic shield on.
some wire conduit helps, keeps all the wires nice and hidden.
 
#8 ·
TokoDragon said:
Yeah, I think you'd have the some problem on the base model.

Well I got my fog lights all in and wired and all tucked and cleaned up. I like it. The switch is under my dash, since the light was so bright it distracted me up where the 4x4 is on the 4x4 models. Now when it's on at night it lights up my feet and all my pedals, handy if you drop something while driving at night. I just screwed the lights in, and started bolting the bumper back down, I heard some creaks from the lights since the metal that was sticking out was pushing on the lights, but it all bolted down, and it just flexed the valance to compensate for the lights there, I guess it took some of the curve from the valance out, can't notice at all. I'd like it to be flater anyway. But because I had to squeeze the lights into the towhook holes it kinda blocked off all ventilation to them. I let them run a good hour after they were in. They got really hot, and I could smell the electrical tape melting, but it didn't hurt anything else. Only the front lens gets hot, so just the tape near there melted. I'm not sure how to aim them, but them seem pretty clse now. I drove around at night just using the fogs, and could see, not as good as headlights of course. I'm happy with the end product, only complaint is, it's kind of annoying how they go dimmer when you press on the brakes. I ran the positive end into my fuse box, and pinched it in the big fuse labled "BAT" and grounded the switch in my dash near the steering colum, then each light is grounded through the two front bolts holding that plastic shield on.
some wire conduit helps, keeps all the wires nice and hidden.

pics?
 
#9 ·
I can get some pics tomorrow. But I have the LS bumper, not the base model. I used to have the base model and it may be a little harder to put the lights in that one, but I wanted to get as big as possible, if you have the smaller ones shouldn't be a whole lot of hassle. mine were to big when I bought them, I had to dremel them down to slide in. I went and was going to put the switch in the dash where the 4x4 normally goes, but to bright there, I undid the black panel attached to the panel under the steering wheel and clamped it in there. I also pulled the front of the dash off the run all the wires under it, BUT I couldn't find a hole through the firewall! so I tucked really good and the wires sneak out over the weather stripping on the door. If you find a hole let me know, I didn't look to hard I guess.
 
#10 · (Edited by Moderator)
My Fog lights...

Here's the pictures.
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That Bolt is what the lights are grounded too. I cut to much out, on the valance, you can just cut the little bar in the middle out and work just as good. Then the light is held in there with screws. I like them, I'd just suggest pttuing them some where you can see the switch on, so you don't accidently leave them on, I've been kinda using them like extra DRL lights, but if you just use them as fogs, you should be able to see the large amount of light coming out of them at night to know they are on. I couldn't find a hole in the firewall, so here's my wires.
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Here's my CarDomain Site
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2213519/1
 
#11 ·
Just did mine today, they arent as tall, but they are like a skinny wide kind.
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took about 1.5 hours to install, and i put my switch in almost the same exact spot, ill get more pics soon possibly.
 
#12 ·
got some better pics, all i had to do was use a drill to get the screws into the bumper for the brackets, no cutting required.
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and i see that i need to get some wax wiped off under there lol.
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#15 ·
Lol, yeah, how did you run the wires mikedd?

Quote: Originally Posted by orangesonoma them wires going thru the door jam like that scare me...i hope you got fuses installed...
Um, the black one is the positive wire to the lights, it has a fuse, the white one is the wire that connects the lights to the switch, and that little black one is the sensor for a cheap thermometer I bought from walmart.
If anyone knows a spot I can run them through my firewall or something, that'd be great...

Nice Truck Mikedd very clean, lights look good. What year is it? Looks like it's in good shape, when I bought mine the grille was already faded, and body was pretty scratched up.
 
#17 ·
my804mini said:
the hole in your firewall to run the wires through are in your passenger side floorboard under your carpet

there is a grommit there, please dont leave those wires like that
so no drilling? that would be awesome, cause i am putting a system in here in the next week and i don't really wanna drill through the firewall to run my power to the battery. ill definatly be looking for that, and i also ran my wires through the door, i guess ill have to fix that one also this weekend if my boxes come this week for my subwoofers.
 
#18 ·
TokoDragon said:
Lol, yeah, how did you run the wires mikedd?



Um, the black one is the positive wire to the lights, it has a fuse, the white one is the wire that connects the lights to the switch, and that little black one is the sensor for a cheap thermometer I bought from walmart.
If anyone knows a spot I can run them through my firewall or something, that'd be great...

Nice Truck Mikedd very clean, lights look good. What year is it? Looks like it's in good shape, when I bought mine the grille was already faded, and body was pretty scratched up.
mine is a 2000, got it for 4 grand back in december. it had 132K miles on it, and now has 141K on it :D runs like new
 
#19 ·
mikedd_87 said:
so no drilling? that would be awesome, cause i am putting a system in here in the next week and i don't really wanna drill through the firewall to run my power to the battery. ill definatly be looking for that, and i also ran my wires through the door, i guess ill have to fix that one also this weekend if my boxes come this week for my subwoofers.[/quote

Nope, no drilling holes already there

I have my power lead for my amp and the wire for my air/fuel ratio guage run through there with plenty of room left
 
#20 ·
my804minithe hole in your firewall to run the wires through are in your passenger side floorboard under your carpet

there is a grommit there, please dont leave those wires like that
Cool, I have tomorrow off work, guess I can rewire my fogs. I don't have to pull any interior panel off do i? How far down is it, could I just pull it back and see it?
Wish I would have known about it sooner, going to be a b!tch to re route them. I pulled back the driver side carpet when I was putting the switch in, never thought to check the passener side.

mine is a 2000, got it for 4 grand back in december. it had 132K miles on it, and now has 141K on it :D runs like new
The paint looks great in photos. Mine is a 2002 I bought it back in december too, day after christmas with 42,000 and cost me 7,800, but my paint is sctratched, and my clear coat is stained. No mechanical problems. probably paid to much for it, especially because when I bought it the tires were bald, and tailgate cables were broken.
 
#22 ·
my804mini said:
No you dont have to pull panels, and its about 3 inches above where the floorboard angles up on the firewall

good luck
awesome man, thanks for tellin me, i am doing my system this weekend so that helps tremendously.
 
#24 ·
You said your foglights dim when you press on the brake, does this happen to all the lights or just the foglights that were installed?

I'm not 100% sure how you wired them up but what you can do is use a relay outside by the lights. You can then use 22 gauge wire to run from the inside fuse box, to the switch, to the relay. The smaller wires will be easier to route. Then run the required gauge wire for the foglights from the battery, to the relay, to the foglights. As long as you have good metal to metal grounds, this will provide the lights with plenty of power.

If all the lights are dimming with your brake pedal, then your problem lies elsewhere.

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#26 · (Edited)
Uh, the fogs seem to only dim when I step on the brake, as far as I can tell they don't dim when the headlights flip on, or reverse lights, or dome lights etc. I'm very electrically challenged. For my lights I ran the power into my fuse box and put it in with a fuse to the battery, it might have been the power for the brakes for all I know. Yeah, the big fuse box under the hood on the driver's side.

My fog light set up is slightly different than your picture, so, not really sure where the Relay would go, so the relay had to be controled by the power from the switch? or does it just have to go between the switch and the lights? Think the great artwork should help ask my questions.
Oh, the fuse is on the positive wire coming out of the switch.

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Also my fogs are aimed all crooked, not sure how high from the ground they should be, right now I just have them thrown in there and look even, but when they're on you can tell one is aimed lower than the other.

Thanks.