Is stock alternator on the 2.5L an 85 amp job? What are the identifiers that one can use to tell if the alternator is 85, 95 or 105, etc.? It seems that there are several different ampacities that will bolt up to these engines.
JLR
Mine is 78amp. And has the two pin voltage regulator connector. '86 E code with power nothing.
You should state the exact engine code and make, and the options your truck has, if you'd like someone to tell you what alternator size you have. There were multiple versions of carb'd or fuel injected 2.5 iron dukes from '83 to '93.
I'm pretty sure my alternator is 100 amp. But that is irrelevant, as I'm putting no current-hungry accessories like a power audio amp. I have a curosity. I asked if 85A was stock, and what identifiers one can use to determine alternator ampacity. My alternator has been swapped at least 2 times in the past. I have a hunch OEM was 85A. Sometimes new replacement parts are an "improvement" over factory. So far I've found a possible range 67 - 220.
ya, rock auto is giving me results for your truck of 85, 96, 100, 105amp. If you're running a barebones truck (no big fog lamps, light bars, amps, seat warmers, etc etc), I would go with the most economical option. I replaced my alternator yesterday, 2 pin 78amp for my '86 2.5, got a champion remanufactured remy-delco one with the proper pulley on it for $50 canadian dollars including tax after core and a coupon. I'm pretty sure all I needed was a new voltage regulator or brushed, but alternator rebuilds are hours of work, as opposed to 5 minutes in the parts store parking lot.
Oh, you just replaced yours yesterday? Did you get one at rock auto? I've seen them as low as 45 bucks on ebay, but no tellin' what you'd be getting for that price since being you don't send them a core, plus the price included shipping. I have a Ford truck too, and I've replaced the regulator on it twice. It's easy, one good thing about Fords 
It's bolted to the back, and also the brushes are part of the assembly. Remove two screws and pull it off. Wish GM had 'em like that.
Saw a 220 amp job for nearly 200 bucks. That's some serious current! I wonder how much HP you'd lose.
It's bolted to the back, and also the brushes are part of the assembly. Remove two screws and pull it off. Wish GM had 'em like that.Saw a 220 amp job for nearly 200 bucks. That's some serious current! I wonder how much HP you'd lose.
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