Full size images are better...

 

The thumbnails don't allow you to expand to the full size images?
I can re-post them here:

 

They do...but why go thru all the grief...

 

Just figured it would be easier for people to pick what they wanted to see full-size versus having to load a bunch of full size images, but I can do the full-size from now on. I haven't frequented forums much since the old Dial-Up days so I forget that things load much quicker these days!

Thanks for the heads up

 

You can put pretty much any GM steering wheel on that thing, to me that's one of the ugliest wheels ever, lol.

 

It is kinda ugly, but it's also not very common, which is why I think I like it! haha. Worst case scenario I'll probably swap it down the road if I can't get this one going again.

 

For the engine, you should be able to use anything from 94-97. The 96-97 engines will have a cam sensor you won't use, but other than that, you should be good. Also, Cavalier/Sunbird/Sunfire/Corsica/Beretta/Ciera/Century from those years will work as well. At least for the block, I think the head is a little different.

I see '94s in the junkyard from time to time, that wheel is one year only but not impossible to find. They sold a lot of '94s.

 

For the engine, you should be able to use anything from 94-97. The 96-97 engines will have a cam sensor you won't use, but other than that, you should be good.

I see '94s in the junkyard from time to time, that wheel is one year only but not impossible to find. They sold a lot of '94s.

Yeah I noticed it seemed sort of like a one-off sort of deal, and I definitely remember the one in my 1995 being quite a bit different.
I have had a lot of trouble finding the S-10s from the 94-97 range in local junk yards in my area, but I see a ton of the 98+ models. I'm always keeping an eye out, but have been unlucky so far.

 

I just noticed you're from AZ, I'm sure good interiors are hard to find out there. I'll be in Reno/Sparks for the rest of the month, but when I get back to STL, I'm sure I could find what you're looking for.

 

Thankfully the interior isn't too terrible.. the dash has a few spots where it's starting to crack, but I'm going to condition it and then cover it with a dash mat. The seat has a huge tear where I get in, and the door panels are pretty much garbage. Worst case scenario I can always go visit the LMC Truck manuals and see what I can get from them.

Thanks for the information, and I'll keep that in mind! I appreciate it.

 

I actually have a '95 in the same color as yours, lol.

Also noticed that is a factory non-AC truck. Gotta be rare in AZ.

 

That's awesome. I like this color because it doesn't show the dust as easily as a white or black paint job does.
My 1995 was all-white with a chrome grille and alloy wheels.. I definitely miss it and wish I had never sold it. I ultimately missed it so much, that I bought this one all these years later, haha.
Always had a soft spot in my heart for the 2nd gen S10s.

Yeah, the lack of AC is a bit brutal, but I can deal. I believe this truck originated from Washington and made its way down here, so that would explain it a bit better.

 

Nice, I have a white one too. Though thanks to someone running a red light, the bed is now pewter.

Oh, and they are both Oldsmobiles, lol.

 

Nice, I have a white one too. Though thanks to someone running a red light, the bed is now pewter.

Oh, and they are both Oldsmobiles, lol.

That's quite the interesting look, but I dig it! I don't think I'm gonna customize mine too much on the outside, although I may do some interior work here and there, and maybe some upgrades under the hood ultimately.

 

Oh, I can't leave them alone. I've had the white one since 2007, it's been through a lot.

 

I can respect that, it definitely makes it unique and gives you that pride of ownership. Sorry to hear about that red light incident.. I lost my old 4WD Isuzu Rodeo that way.

Over time I've learned people in Southern Arizona seem to have a hard time respecting other people's property, let alone treating it right. I have a 2017 Mazda that's been tampered with a few times, (looks like someone even took something abrasive to my paint job once), has also had doors slammed into it quite a few times, random scratches, etc.
People also love to loot or steal cars here, so I figure if I just leave the outside looking normal/stock, it may be less appealing to those folks, and less heart ache on my end. I'm more about the inside being comfortable and the ride being smooth, so I generally don't do much to the exterior of my vehicles.

 

It's like that everywhere I'm sure. That's why the new car I bought spends most of its time in the garage, although it's just a Ford Fiesta, lol.

 

Possibly. Crime here is pretty ridiculous, though
Where I live vs National Average:

 

I have one of those complete wheels but it's light gray.

 

Completely intact?
Is it for sale?

 

I guess it can be. I have a 94 2.2/5speed truck too but it has an Olds wheel now. I'll go fish it out tomorrow or Friday and take a pic. What do you want to pay for it? I mean, you'll pay for the ride obviously but I'm open to your input.

 

Alright, so my next focus on this truck after resolving the steering wheel will be the actual engine-
The (I4, 2.2L) engine has a cracked block.

Does anyone have any suggestion as to what to do for the engine?

• Is it worth attempting to get the current engine fixed at a machine shop? (Obviously this depends on how severe the crack is, but I've never had to go about this before..)
• Should I pull an engine from a junk yard and cross my fingers? (And should I throw it straight in, or have it rebuilt?)
• Should I look for a certified used engine? (Save myself the hassle of pulling and rebuilding an engine?)
• Should I perhaps look for a certified remanufactured engine? (Also, saving some hassle, albeit at possibly higher expense)

I've considered putting a Vortec V6 in there, but that's sort of a last-ditch-idea sort of thing, because I'm sure I'll need to swap a transmission with it too? (Please correct me if I'm wrong!)

I've worked on my cars for a long time, but this S10 is putting me in new territory that I'm not so familiar with.
If anyone has any stories or suggestions, please let me know, I'd love to get a better idea of how to proceed.
Thanks!

 

Alright, disregard the cracked block - Turns out I got a bunch of false positives created by other issues presented by the truck.

Moving on, I am able to confirm that the clutch is indeed bad, and also noticed that the temperature gauge in the cluster doesn't really work at all, as well.
Ordered up a new clutch and flywheel, and ordered up a new temperature sensor/sending unit. I'm hoping this can fix it, but there may be more to it. Going to do the ground trick to see if the gauge is bad, but the sensor is cheap enough that it's worth replacing anyways.
Any other known issues that may cause failed temp readings if the gauge in the cluster is indeed good?

 

Update-
Got the Borg Warner T5 pulled off, pulled the flywheel as well. Noticed that there was a leak at the rear main seal, so got a new seal in, threw on a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, with all new bearings. (Next swap is a slave cylinder.)

Also noticed that my muffler was blown out, so I cut it off the pipe, now I have a motorcycle.

Fixing all the wiring in the dash that was cut by the previous owner, wiring up a 6 speaker set with space for an amp/sub down the road (perhaps.)

Up next:

• Sanding down the frame to remove rust, adding a primer/undercoating after
• Replacing the catalytic converter and exhaust (backflow is not right)
• Pulling dash to check the vacuum lines/actuator (air vents are not working properly)

I have an oil a leak up top from the engine as well, I think it may be from the valve/rocker cover. Will need to investigate further later on.

 

i wish i could do a clutch kit on my truck i know something is not right and the rear main seal is dripping.
good luck with this repairs do looking forward for more updates.

 

It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be (though I also made sure I had all the proper tools, because it would be harder without.)
It was the disassembly and re-assembly that was a pain in the rear. Doing the actual swaps wasn't too difficult. Hope you can get your situation figured out!

 

Would anyone on here happen to have a picture of the connection where the heater core inlet pipe connects to the thermostat housing? Mine was a bit jerry-rigged, and I want to ensure that I know what it was like before to properly fix it.
Thank you!

 

Mine is different now. The factory fitting fell apart in my hands so I just added an npt fitting and regular heater hose.

 

That's the issue here - The fitting is missing from the truck entirely. They clamped on a short 1 inch hose to connect it and I just wanna try to make it more legit.

Is this the fitting that goes into the thermostat housing?
Dorman - OE Solutions Heater Hose Connector 800-401 (autozone.com)

 

That's the one. I'm pretty sure my '95 still has it. Haven't really looked at it that closely yet. Pretty sure a metal line goes into it and that goes around the intake manifold. The hose attaches at the rear of the engine.

 

Also, haven't posted the Latest updates:

Recently finished projects-
Fixed dash wiring, installed 6 speaker setup
Replaced spark plugs and wires
Replaced front rotors, hardware, bearings, and seals
Replaced front brake pads and hardware
Replacement catalytic converter, intermediate pipe, muffler, and tailpipe
Replaced Oxygen sensor
Replaced Intake Temp Sensor
Replaced MAP sensor

Current projects-
Replacing timing chain and tensioner
Replacing water pump
Replacing radiator hoses
Replacing radiator
Replacing rusted Heater Core Inlet Hose

Future projects-
Replace Fuel Pump and Sender Unit
Replace Fuel Injectors

 

Good thing he answered because my truck was essentially boxes of parts when I got it so I have no clue what it looked like. lol Makes sure you use delco parts for the timing chain.

 

Also curious, is it possible to lift the cab off the frame but keeping the drivetrain intact?
I wanna get rid of some rust on the frame and put a new coat on it.. just not sure what I can do to make it more accessible up front. The back is easy after the bed is removed.

 

Yep...

 

^ Thanks for the info! Nice engine

I finally got some work done..-

• Timing chain, sprockets, tensioner, and oil cap
• Timing cover gasket and seal
• Water pump, thermostat, upper and lower hoses, heater core inlet pipe/hose
• Fan bracket and hardware
• Cleaned up all the parts removed and re-assembled to the engine
• Sanded down rust on the wheel wells and frame, re-primer'd for elemental protection

Future endeavors:

• New radiator and heater core outlet pipe/hose
• Fuel pressure regulator
• Fuel injectors
• Fuel filter
• Fuel pump and sending unit
• Sand down rest of frame and any other rusted metal areas, re-coat with primer

Does anyone know if they have two-core radiators for this vehicle, or if they were all sold with the single core? It gets rather hot here where I live, and I get the feeling that a two-core would be more ideal to keep the engine cool. Anyone have any info or advice?