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@Yowakawaka From all that you've posted, take it to a qualify shop that routinely installs alarm systems. They can provide & install all that you want in less than a day. (Also, that's likely a deductible business expense.) As a DIY approach, learning and actually doing a correct installation will take longer, but by how much is fully incumbent on you. How much 'down time' is tolerable for a business vehicle, particularly if you inadvertently create other electrical gremlins or disable the truck while 'learning'?
 
👉 Who needs a key? 👈
Wire a handful of randomly placed switches in series.
The cigarette lighter is a pretty novel momentary switch.
:)

You might want to make a wiring diagram
for yourself for future reference. :geek:

Take it to Firestone. Tell 'em, "It won't start."
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I get what you are all saying but couldn’t I just splice into the positive on the distributor and run a switch off that? That could be the kill switch. I’d have to make the connector replaceable for when I need to remove the distributor. I’m not expert but wouldn’t that work?

The actual alarm I would definitely get installed. Like I said, I want to do as little damage to the harness as possible as possible.
 
What electrical components does a vehicle need to get started and run? Ignition, fuel pump, starter, neutral safety switch, power to distributor. A kill switch on any of those should work.

Get with the alarm guys first though to make sure you aren't going to interfere with their work.
 
I get what you are all saying but couldn’t I just splice into the positive on the distributor and run a switch off that? That could be the kill switch. I’d have to make the connector replaceable for when I need to remove the distributor. I’m not expert but wouldn’t that work?

The actual alarm I would definitely get installed. Like I said, I want to do as little damage to the harness as possible as possible.
make sure you have good insurance and Dummy Light

just be 100% aware you can not stop a motivated thief.
 
@Yowakawaka,
I did an ignition kill switch on my S10 myself because I have no plans to get a professional security system installed. If I was going to pros to install a proper security system, then that would be Step #1. I would probably stop there.

If I still wanted a separate kill switch, then I would install afterward insuring that I completely avoided whatever the professionals had done for their security system install.

It's not a perfect analog, but it is a little bit like security software on your computer. The installation process will demand that you uninstall any previous security software before you proceed with the new software install. You don't want the 2 different security devices fighting each other. One comprehensive security system should be sufficient.
 
The security system needs to be compatible/ applicable for your vehicle. A good shop or the system's manufacturer should be able to confirm that. A system, like the one you referenced in post #10, has a start disable/ kill switch feature in it. That would seem to negate the need for a separate switch.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I’m not sure if I’m going to get an alarm installed right now. I’m just gonna do a kill switch off the distributor wire and run it into the cab.

What kid and what amp switch do I need?
Will running it off the negative or positive?
 
I’m not sure if I’m going to get an alarm installed right now. I’m just gonna do a kill switch off the distributor wire and run it into the cab.

What kid and what amp switch do I need?
Will running it off the negative or positive?
Post #17.
 
I’m not sure if I’m going to get an alarm installed right now. I’m just gonna do a kill switch off the distributor wire and run it into the cab
Definitely the negative side, installing a toggle switch on a hot wire is inviting a fire.
If you have a distributor cap, fed by a coil,,, All you gotta do is run a wire to the negative side wire post, to a heavy duty toggle switch and then ground it to something that contains iron and is grounded.

I did this on my 1982 Mercury Zephyr , V8, when I was in the military as idiots liked to hot wire cars on base. Just hide the kill switch good, way up under the dash, out of sight.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
@aitch thats not an option right now. Been working nonstop. I only get Sundays off. Good problem to have.

@G61 Thank you for your service. Serving is something I never wanted to do when I was younger but wish I would have done now.

What do you mean by “negative side wire post”? Are you talking about the negative on the coil? I have a distributor and coil but my coil looks like the one below.

Image

I was thinking to splice into the negative wire on the coil. The switch would just break the connection. I would hide it under the dash.


I found this switch on Amazon. Is there one that you’ve used that’s good quality? I’m not sure how many amps/volts to get ether.

 
@aitch thats not an option right now. Been working nonstop. I only get Sundays off. Good problem to have.

@G61 Thank you for your service. Serving is something I never wanted to do when I was younger but wish I would have done now.

What do you mean by “negative side wire post”? Are you talking about the negative on the coil? I have a distributor and coil but my coil looks like the one below.

View attachment 406291
I was thinking to splice into the negative wire on the coil. The switch would just break the connection. I would hide it under the dash.


I found this switch on Amazon. Is there one that you’ve used that’s good quality? I’m not sure how many amps/volts to get ether.

That's the right switch, and yes, you want to run the wires from the switch to a break in your negative wire on your coil. Here, this guy explains it good, even shows you what you need to do in the way of soldering and insulating.

 
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