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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Sounds like it’s time for a change.
I took out the cat, it had nothing inside of it. It was blown out probably before I owned it. Truck still seems to have the issue. Some one on facebook had suggested doing a crankshaft sensor relearn. So i may try that, even though the issues happened before I replaced the distributor.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
check youtube for a diy smoke test. I made one (not real hard) and it helps a lot. also search ebay for an old style (OBD1) code reader, youtube has info about hotwireing the plug so the check engine light blinks the code.
:)
Would I need an old style obd1 scanner when I have a snap on scanner?

Also the bulb is either burnt out or was taken out before I owned the truck as the check engine light has never come on. even when it had multiple very big codes, such as misfire codes etc. (i have since fixed those codes)
 
I took out the cat, it had nothing inside of it. It was blown out probably before I owned it. Truck still seems to have the issue. Some one on facebook had suggested doing a crankshaft sensor relearn. So i may try that, even though the issues happened before I replaced the distributor.
If you haven't changed out your CKP sensor yet, I'd consider replacing it before doing a relearn. There is a chance it's worn out at this point and causing too much of a gap between it and the crankshaft.
 
You mentioned that the distributor was worn out, and all of the things you have done. Funny, but I cannot seem to ifnd a mention of checking the timing chain for stretch. Many old timers mark balances and timing coves where they are viewable. remove distributor cap and mark rotor and distributor. Then rotate crankshaft manually as far as possible one way and mark. Repeat in opposite direction and mark. On many engines you may have to remove some or even all of the sparkplugs. There isn't a scanner made that can tell you that.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
If you haven't changed out your CKP sensor yet, I'd consider replacing it before doing a relearn. There is a chance it's worn out at this point and causing too much of a gap between it and the crankshaft.
I haven’t changed it,

we did try to take the truck home today it drove fine until we hit a hill, then it started acting up and not accelerating properly. My boyfriend was driving it and said it wasn’t happy. One of the techs at work tried to do a fuel pressure test but our gauge broke. But before it broke it was reading ever so slightly low. So I’m wondering if it’s a fueling issue…
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
You mentioned that the distributor was worn out, and all of the things you have done. Funny, but I cannot seem to ifnd a mention of checking the timing chain for stretch. Many old timers mark balances and timing coves where they are viewable. remove distributor cap and mark rotor and distributor. Then rotate crankshaft manually as far as possible one way and mark. Repeat in opposite direction and mark. On many engines you may have to remove some or even all of the sparkplugs. There isn't a scanner made that can tell you that.
I’ll see if that’s maybe something we can check, I’ve never had to do that and not really sure how I’d tell if it’s worn or not.

the old distributor was definitely played with before as it was held in by a self tapper. I’m unfortunately I believe the third or 4th owner of this truck and whoever owned it before seemed to have done some sketchy stuff with it.
 
Put some fuel injector cleaner in it.
Could be to much alcohol in gas.
You should have 43 psi after cranking it.
with key on .
Check your plugs if wet no fire.
if tan your gold if white no fuel.
if black and gooey thats your problem .
A most Excellent trick.
You take a good test light and poke pin holes with it on distributor spark plug boots
just passed edge of distributor then you run truck.
you ground the light on battery and move the point of test light around pin holes .
If any spark jumps to it, the spark plug and wire are bad one or other .
You can also do a drop test by sticking it in pin hole to metal on spark plug wire and
make the cylinder shut off by grounding it..
The obd1 you ground the top2 far right with paper clip and key on it will flash 12 times telling you the pcm is working then count the flashes for codes.
 
Put some fuel injector cleaner in it.
Could be to much alcohol in gas.
You should have 43 psi after cranking it.
with key on .
Check your plugs if wet no fire.
if tan your gold if white no fuel.
if black and gooey thats your problem .
A most Excellent trick.
You take a good test light and poke pin holes with it on distributor spark plug boots
just passed edge of distributor then you run truck.
you ground the light on battery and move the point of test light around pin holes .
If any spark jumps to it, the spark plug and wire are bad one or other .
You can also do a drop test by sticking it in pin hole to metal on spark plug wire and
make the cylinder shut off by grounding it..
The obd1 you ground the top2 far right with paper clip and key on it will flash 12 times telling you the pcm is working then count the flashes for codes.
You should read the sticky in the section regarding fuel pressure. It needs 60psi to start. The paperclip trick is for OBD1....possibly OBD1.5. Since he has a 2003, he has OBD2.

BTW...poking holes in wiring insulation is not a good idea.
 
I pride myself keeping around 70 percent correct .
A Professional trade schooled mechanic only keeps a 30 percent of work that doesnt come back.
I some times am jumping blogs and get mixed up.
other than reading codes obd1 and obd2 are same with 02 sensors having a extra 02 behind cats
and either extra heater wire in 02 So more chance of pigtail replacement .
The Stainless steel wires are really good to understand.
Not Bad for Free help..
 
So the truck is obd2 the missing cats will throw a code too.
or can maybe be tuned out
I still have 2nd cat wiring and have o2s still in with big Daddy extensions to trick cpu
They have necessary metals to trick 02 sensor into thinking the cat is present.
 
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