ZombieR2 needs to pick your brains

78447 Views 1049 Replies 50 Participants Last post by jesselee20040, 15 d ago

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · Mar 30, 2014

I have a build thread, but I'll probably get more insight in this section- this will only be the SFA part of my truck rebuild.

Here is the other thread- I'm not going to bother posting SFA stuff in there now.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/the-daily-batterram-448046/

Here is the blank slate for the 1987 Wagoneer front and 1994 Isuzu Rodeo rear. I'm going to run 35x12.5R15 BFG KM2 tires and keep the 4.30 gear ratio and Trac-lok limited slip front and back. I plan to use an astro steering box with a wagoneer pitman arm, but I'm not going to know for sure until I mount the front axle.

The Rodeo dana44 seems to be in good shape, even the brake pads look brand new, I think I will be OK to just clean it up and re-grease/lube everything and paint it before putting it in.

zip ties on the calibres

I cut the old perches off and smoothed it out

I ordered this kit from 4wdfactory.com

8-11-92 is the date stamped into this differential cover.

I'm going to try and keep the stock leaf springs and make new shackles to adjust the rear height to match the front.

I haven't decided on the front springs yet, but dodge dakotas are plentiful at my local junkyard. The front dana44 will probably be a full rebuild- it looks pretty worn out.

I have Mile Marker hubs waiting to go in.

Thanks for taking a look!
-Miko

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TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #21 · Apr 2, 2014

So I'm going back and forth on what leaf springs I should use upfront.

The truck will be mainly used on the street, including towing various things both highway and city and it goes off-road pretty frequently.

Off-road here is mainly steep inclines and declines and rocks.

I've read dodge dakota is the flex-iest but could hurt approach angle.

Opinions?

crewcab rabbit

· #22 · Apr 2, 2014

Stock wagoneer 7 leafs are a great option for a simple All around good leaf spring swap

Sonomanclature

· #23 · Apr 2, 2014

^^I love mine so far.

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #24 · Apr 3, 2014

Well that solves that dilemma lol. Thanks!

I just got my order from 4wd factory with the ruffstuff dana 44 mounting hardware. No instructions but it looks pretty straight forward.

I knew I always wanted to stick with Bilstien shocks- but there are so many to choose from! I think the 5100 series will be the best for a truck that is meant to do it all. 6100 looks tempting though.

The 5125 is the universal model, which would mean I'd need to weld up a new shock tab for the frame mount. I didn't see 1 that would fit the stock mount.

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blznnp

· #25 · Apr 3, 2014

If you are wanting some fiberglass fenders like rabbits, there is a off road shop here that had some last time I went it, which shocked me since Jeeps are huge and the big seller here, but then the employee told me the owner is a s10 guy.

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #26 · Apr 3, 2014

^ lol that's cool, for as common as these trucks are, finding people local also interested in them is few and far between.

What brands are those fenders? I've seen hannerman, glassworks and trailer products.

Trailer products is a 2'' bulge

Hannerman is a 3'' bulge but the bedsides don't match the front

Glassworks is a 4'' bulge

I was going for the trailer products because this truck will have roughly the same width as a ZR2 when done and ZR2 flares are a 2'' extension. I want the tires to stick past the fenders.

I think my build thread for the truck has more details

I'm trying to convince myself not to do a mini exo-cage.... Maybe just some bars between the cab and bed then over the roof and under the fibergass fenders and bedsides, along the rockers...

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blznnp

· #27 · Apr 3, 2014

I am not sure what brand it was, I could swing by and take a look if you want.

warriorcustoms

· #28 · Apr 4, 2014

Ok I will run it by ya again LoL Get the Waggy pitman & run all the Waggy steering... Then for springs run the Waggy 7 leaf front & depending on your rear shackle angle you may get away with the 57" Waggy rears too

Im goin to pull a set of Front & Rear Waggy springs since one of the mains is broke that I got with the Waggy front diff... I will run the fronts on the Blazer & rears on my truck... Then on the Blazer rears use the busted ones to make a bastard pack... I think itll work LoL
I also told ya Triple check to make sure the Rodeo rear is 60ish & not 58" LoL But you may be able to run rim sizes like Ive got to make it look more Even!!! Ive got 4 Gambler style rims that are 15x8.5" & the 2 I bought today are 15x10 Gambler style rims... ALL have 3.75" backspacing... So bolted on a diff without a tire they should be within .5" Soo 1/4" wider in the rear per side aint gonna be too noticable LoL Thats using 60.5 front & 58" rear... Hopefully the 10" wide rims wont make the tires a Lot shorter in the back on My Blazer... I can always put the 8.5" on all 4 corners

Rabbits Blazer build is around pg 29 give or take a few LoL
Bilsteins are a great choice for Any ride!!!
As far as buyin ALL 2, 3, or 4" bulge on the fiberglass fenders I would hold off & see where the stock ones fall so to speak & that way if you dont run wider rims or spacers you can do like 4" bulge fronts & 2" bulge rears to make things "look" right "

Just My 2cents LoL

OHH the Zombie sticker idea made me think of the old White Zombie stickers on LaSexorcisto Lmao

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terry10

· #29 · Apr 4, 2014

just my opinion unless the waggy steering came with your axle or you can get it from the yard pretty reasonable and in good condition then do that but otherwise you might wanna considering going the same route as me. i bought ruffstuffs y-link steering kit which is pretty much identical to the factory stuff but it uses dom and 1 ton tre's

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #30 · Apr 4, 2014

blznnp said:
I am not sure what brand it was, I could swing by and take a look if you want.

That's alright, it'll be awhile before I start buying the body work.

Ok I will run it by ya again LoL Get the Waggy pitman & run all the Waggy steering... Then for springs run the Waggy 7 leaf front & depending on your rear shackle angle you may get away with the 57" Waggy rears too Im goin to pull a set of Front & Rear Waggy springs since one of the mains is broke that I got with the Waggy front diff... I will run the fronts on the Blazer & rears on my truck... Then on the Blazer rears use the busted ones to make a bastard pack... I think itll work LoL
I also told ya Triple check to make sure the Rodeo rear is 60ish & not 58" LoL But you may be able to run rim sizes like Ive got to make it look more Even!!! Ive got 4 Gambler style rims that are 15x8.5" & the 2 I bought today are 15x10 Gambler style rims... ALL have 3.75" backspacing... So bolted on a diff without a tire they should be within .5" Soo 1/4" wider in the rear per side aint gonna be too noticable LoL Thats using 60.5 front & 58" rear... Hopefully the 10" wide rims wont make the tires a Lot shorter in the back on My Blazer... I can always put the 8.5" on all 4 corners
Rabbits Blazer build is around pg 29 give or take a few LoL
Bilsteins are a great choice for Any ride!!!
As far as buyin ALL 2, 3, or 4" bulge on the fiberglass fenders I would hold off & see where the stock ones fall so to speak & that way if you dont run wider rims or spacers you can do like 4" bulge fronts & 2" bulge rears to make things "look" right " Just My 2cents LoL

OHH the Zombie sticker idea made me think of the old White Zombie stickers on LaSexorcisto Lmao ]

Will there be any problems with the stock ZR2 rear leafs? I'm out of cash so if I need new leafs for the back I'd have to hold off on installing the rear axle. I'll have to check out my shackle (shackle is getting replaced no matter what leafs I use though) and measure the leaf and see. The problem I see right now is I doubt there will be enough room on the axle to mount the track bar, maybe moving the axle under the leaf will give it enough space or I can get creative. :haha:

They had a ton of rodeos at the junkyard, but when it came to the correct year and 4.30 gears there were only 2 rodeos that would work and both were the 58'' version

I'm not afraid to run spacers to even out the track- that is what I was doing before lol. The other 1 is going to be the diff I use in the waggy axle lol.
and
A zombie decal would look good on the diff cover

just my opinion unless the waggy steering came with your axle or you can get it from the yard pretty reasonable and in good condition then do that but otherwise you might wanna considering going the same route as me. i bought ruffstuffs y-link steering kit which is pretty much identical to the factory stuff but it uses dom and 1 ton tre's

^ that sounds like a good upgrade, but I'm so broke now I'm checking the TREs that came from the junkyard with the axle to see if I can run them temporarily.

Does anyone know a way to determine the location to weld the shock tab to the axle without having the shocks??

I'd like to get the rodeo axle done and painted and move on to getting the front IFS out. Since next paycheck I'm buying the Rancho 44044 lift springs and ruffstuff spring perches so I can start getting the front mocked up.

And it is still snowing outside...

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warriorcustoms

· #31 · Apr 4, 2014

ZR2 springs in the rear is a start Bro!!! After you get it SOA then youll know if you need to build a bastard pack or run either Chevy 56" rears or the Waggy 57" rears... Both have the same spacing on the front side!!! I got lucky on the Waggy steering its all tight & seems new

I dont think it Ever went Offroad LoL You can Always Upgrade things Later... RuffStuff is who I recommend for DOM steering kits & other stuff... Great Customer service right there!!!
OK for the 44044 springs spring under axle is pretty much the same lift as Stock Waggy springs spring over axle... 44044 springs SOA is a Bunch of Lift & youll prolly be removing springs with that set-up... Wait on shocks for welding up shock tabs!!! Patience GrassHopper

Heck Im gonna bust out my Blazer & pull the bed & cab off my Ext Cab to flip the frame over & make sure I know its Welded right!!! Then put it all back together... Sometimes youve gotta change stuff up a little bit from what was in your head & adjust Then drive on with a hard on!!! Take your time & do it Exactly like You Want or youll always be wantin to redo stuff LoL OHH You should be able to skip the Exo as long as that Chic doesnt getta drive again Lmao Couldnt resist that jab LoL

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warriorcustoms

· #32 · Apr 4, 2014

Mount your Rear Shocks with the Stock Hardware

Way easier on ya

96superflow

· #33 · Apr 4, 2014

I would definitely hold off on the shocks until you get them. You can work a setup to temporarily run the ZR2 shocks that you have on it, probably w/o too much work as well.

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #34 · Apr 4, 2014

^ that is what warrior customs suggested in a PM, I didn't even think about it.

I figured the shocks would be to short to use, but if I flip the axle under the spring that would actually shorten the distance of the shock, then when I fab a new shackle it'll probably put the shock mount right where it was stock.

My stock Bilstiens are in good shape, they'll work pretty well for awhile.

I broke 1 of the stock U bolts, it snapped while loosening it, but I grabbed a bunch of Rodeo u bolts when I grabbed the axle, I think I have more than 1 complete set lol.

The leafs usually have more flex while SOA- correct? So I'd do better with stock 7pack wagoneer springs. They are also cheaper

So... with the Y link ruffstuff steering will it affect turning radius? - Just read through Rabbits thread about high-steer reducing that.

OHH You should be able to skip the Exo as long as that Chic doesnt getta drive again Lmao Couldnt resist that jab LoL

You're on a roll :rotf:

I'm building new fender inner structure, I'm going to try and sell the passenger side fender so I don't want to cut it up to fit the fiberglass fenders. I'm going to use 1.5'' square tubing and 10 gauge and just fabricate a new inner structure (which will be much stronger than the stock fenders) So it'll be a good foundation to start mounting more exo cage off of it. (Also building an inner structure behind the fiberglass bedsides) but I doubt I will find a buyer for the complete bedside.

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terry10

· #35 · Apr 4, 2014

TokoDragon said:
So... with the Y link ruffstuff steering will it affect turning radius? - Just read through Rabbits thread about high-steer reducing that.

i wouldnt think so, its almost identical in setup to the stock waggy stuff. the only difference is the whole in the tie rod for the drag link to connect to is about 2'' closer to the knuckle. but with a astro box and maybe a drop pitman arm should would good imo. but i havent drove mine yet to tell ya how it works

warriorcustoms

· #36 · Apr 5, 2014

High Steer is when you get the Flat Top knuckles & have them machined plus the High Steer arms to move it up higher from the stock mounting points... You shouldnt need any of that right now LoL Its a great upgrade & Must Have if you play in the Rocks though!!! I bought RuffStuffs biggest baddest kit with 7/8ths Heims thinkin Hell Yeah I wont Ever break them Bitches

Then I found out they arent Legal for highway use in any state!!! SO If a Cop wants to bust My balls He can ticket My Ass!!! Soo get the 1ton TRE kit unless your Local PD is Lax!!! My Locals are pretty easy goin down here on the River

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #37 · Apr 5, 2014

I wonder how many cops could look at a heim or TRE and know the difference.
But this is Idaho, they don't care. Last winter I watched a guy ride his snow machine down main street stop at the gas station for gas and beer and then rode the snow machine back home.

Sonomanclature

· #38 · Apr 5, 2014

TokoDragon said:
I wonder how many cops could look at a heim or TRE and know the difference.
But this is Idaho, they don't care. Last winter I watched a guy ride his snow machine down main street stop at the gas station for gas and beer and then rode the snow machine back home.

Eh thats pretty normal back home, but then again any road covered in snow is considered a trail in the winter.

96superflow

· #39 · Apr 5, 2014

TokoDragon said:
I wonder how many cops could look at a heim or TRE and know the difference.
But this is Idaho, they don't care. Last winter I watched a guy ride his snow machine down main street stop at the gas station for gas and beer and then rode the snow machine back home.

I Can.

TokoDragon

Discussion Starter · #40 · Apr 6, 2014

Didn't know you were a cop, is there any kind of training you guys go through to spot modified vehicles such as Heim joints?

Today I tried some of this 'rust transformer' from summit racing because there are lots of small areas on the axles that would take forever to grind the surface rust out and I really don't want to shave a layer of metal from them.

It seemed to turn the rust black... I guess I wont know how well it did until I spray a new coat of paint on and put a few miles on it.

I'm not sure how to disassemble the axle shafts, I popped the c-clip but how does the wheel bearings come out? I assumed they slid off the top but they haven't budged yet.

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