[TokoDragon]

I have a build thread, but I'll probably get more insight in this section- this will only be the SFA part of my truck rebuild.

Here is the other thread- I'm not going to bother posting SFA stuff in there now.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f30/the-daily-batterram-448046/


Here is the blank slate for the 1987 Wagoneer front and 1994 Isuzu Rodeo rear. I'm going to run 35x12.5R15 BFG KM2 tires and keep the 4.30 gear ratio and Trac-lok limited slip front and back. I plan to use an astro steering box with a wagoneer pitman arm, but I'm not going to know for sure until I mount the front axle.



The Rodeo dana44 seems to be in good shape, even the brake pads look brand new, I think I will be OK to just clean it up and re-grease/lube everything and paint it before putting it in.




zip ties on the calibres

I cut the old perches off and smoothed it out



I ordered this kit from 4wdfactory.com

8-11-92 is the date stamped into this differential cover.

I'm going to try and keep the stock leaf springs and make new shackles to adjust the rear height to match the front.




I haven't decided on the front springs yet, but dodge dakotas are plentiful at my local junkyard. The front dana44 will probably be a full rebuild- it looks pretty worn out.



I have Mile Marker hubs waiting to go in.

Thanks for taking a look!
-Miko

 

[Sonomanclature]

And then when its done you can put this guy onthe back

EDIT: Progress looks good so far.

 

[TokoDragon]

^ lol

It would have been a cooler thread name if it wasn't already a pretty common theme for threads in here. :/


I can't seem to figure out what tie rods and drag link I need, the pictures don't look like what my steering does.


The rodeo brake line is oh-so-close to hooking right up to the s10 hardlines too, but looks like I'm going to get a length of undetermined stainless steel line and have the s10 hardline threads on 1 side and the rodeo block threads on the other side and eliminate the rubber lines while I'm at it.

I'm also going to try and connect the stock track bar to the rodeo axle (good idea?)


-Miko

 

[Sonomanclature]

Eliminating the rubber lines?

I would connect the track bar if it were me .

 

[TokoDragon]

^ replacing them with braided steel lines.


I hope the u-bolts from the 8.6 just fit the d44, that would make connecting the track bar a cake walk.

 

[dngrous_dime]

Subscribed for tha info....

 

[Sonomanclature]

I hope the u-bolts from the 8.6 just fit the d44, that would make connecting the track bar a cake walk.

Measure them but I don't think they will, Not sure if the 8.6 has much larger tubes than the 7.6 but mine were no where near close enough to be reused.

 

[TokoDragon]

GM 8.6



D44



so 2.658.5'' vs 2.790''

U-bolt fits



There is a bit of a gap at the bottom of the u-bolt, but I think that would seal up once they were torqued

 

[BillsDuster]

Oh yeah, that'll pull tight when you torque it. Only difficulty might be lining the ubolts up with the holes in the plate.

 

[Sonomanclature]

good things to know there. I should toss a caliper on my 7.6 and see what it is at.

 

[KM346]

Looks like a good start, Isn't a 94 rodeo rear a little narrow though?

 

[TokoDragon]

^ I haven't measured yet, that is something I can do today while working to get the rest of the surface rust and grime off the rodeo rear.

My guess is the rodeo rear and the jeep front will be about the same width as a regular 4x4 S10, but I'll be using rims with much less backspace so the track width of my ZR2 might be same as stock- or stick out slightly more.

Because a ZR2 is 3'' wider than a regular S10 4x4, and I need rims that are 2'' less backspace so I should be about .5'' wider track than stock ZR2, but the rims I picked out are 3.75'' Backspace not 4'' and the new rims are 1'' wider as well. (15x8)

I'm also going to be loosing the ZR2 flares, it'll cost about the same to replace the damaged stock parts as to go to fiberglass fenders and bedsides.

I want to put new ZR2 decals on
So I'm sure when I'm done I will have a lot of people telling me "That's not a ZR2 it doesn't have the flares!"

That and my cab will be from a 2wd S10 so it wont have the RPO code labelled on the firewall. oh well

 

[Sonomanclature]

if they are going to be near as wide as a nonZ, then 8" wide wtih 3.75 BS is about what you want, that's what i ran before my swap.

 

[Sonomanclature]

If you want flare i can get some cheap, usually there are a few unmolested in the yard......

 

[Sonomanclature]

I might happen to have a set sitting in my garage aswell.

 

[TokoDragon]

It's hard to tell with the D44 disassembled but looks like it is actually 4'' more narrow than the ZR2 8.6.

Looking on google it says the D44 is 58'' wms to wms and the ZR2 is 63'' wms to wms.

This ZR2 has the same rodeo D44 in it with soft 8 rims which are a 17x9 which is 4.52'' backspacing, it looks pretty close to stock track width, but hard to tell with the custom bed on it. (correct me if I'm wrong, but since they are 9'' wide and 4.52'' backspace that should be equivalent to a 8'' wide rim with 3.52'' backspace?)

EDIT: Didn't see Sonoma's posts

Thanks for the confirmation!

and I decided I don't want the ZR2 flares, I'm going to sell my 3 decent flares. I think it'll look cleaner with the bulged fiberglass fenders and bedsides.

 

[terry10]

In case you hadn't ever seen and was curious, if you look back through rabbits thread he had glass fenders on his truck for awhile

 

[96superflow]

I wonder if I can make some flares work on the 4door blazers..... Someone with access to cheap flares PM me. And I am talking cheap now...

 

[TokoDragon]

^I've seen ZR2 flares put onto a 4-door blazer.

I've looked through Rabbits thread quite abit, I think his fiberglass was a 4'' bulge, I'm looking at the trailer products 2'' bulge kit.
I need to find where he did most of the blazer build lol, this truck will be a really similar setup.


and 96superflow, I have some rear S10 ZR2 flares I will sell.

Both are coated in faded truck liner and 1 is missing a chunk so they are worth very little.

The chunk missing is right about where you would need to cut them to fit on a 4-door though.

You can see the faded liner and missing chunk on the rear 1 in this picture.
I only have 1 front fender, that driver side front is destroyed.

 

[96superflow]

I'll Pm you.