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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys i need some info. i have a sbc 383 in my 95 s10. It has 12.1 comp. air gap intake,750 quick fuel double pumper tuned by george rupert,lunati [email protected] it is 240/250 520/540 lift,sportsman ll heads fully ported and polished, roller rockers,true roller timing chain,custom th350, 3000 holeshot stall, fluid damper, x rods stress relieved, polished,magnafluxed,arp bolts,fully balanced,and so on. truck went [email protected] in 1/4. My question is how much abuse will an x rod take? I shift @6500 rpm, motor wants to go further,its pulling just as hard @ 6500 as it does from 3000 on. I know my cam will float with not much more rpm, but will those rods live? looked all over internet and cant find info on x rods. help me out guys i know you have the answers lol
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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never heard of an x rod before... is that a brand or a type?

at any rate, ive seen i beam rods go regularly to 8k without a problem, hell, i know a guy with a 427 BB in a 70 camaro and he beats the piss out of it daily, it has a bone stock bottom end and it sees 7-8k all the time.. so i think youll be ok


just stay away from powdered metal rods though... those are junk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
x rods are gm rods they have an x stamped on the bearing cap. dont know if these are the same as pink or dempled rods (so the old guys call them ) no offense im almost 40 . they are from gm and i wanted to know what was so special over a run of the mill gm rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
x rods are gm rods they have an x stamped on the bearing cap. dont know if these are the same as pink or dempled rods (so the old guys call them ) no offense im almost 40 . they are from gm and i wanted to know what was so special over a run of the mill gm rod
and can i flog them till she floats? lol
 

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personally i would have never built that engine using stock rods... but thats me.
the whole X rod thing is just old school BS. i have never seen anything so special to them as i would want to run them,

dimple rods are 7/16 bolt BBC rods. thats it.
and im pretty sure the pink rod was the early powder rods put in LT1's and such.

but back to topic. i wouldnt really push them much further. one of the main things to keepin a rod alive is a light piston. what kind of pistons are in it? even better yet you know the weight. cause you should have had it balanced. correct?
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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oh lol, honestly never paid attention to the rods i took out of engines, all the ones i built got aftermarket rods

im not gonna say that you will be 100% ok, because any time that you abuse stock internals you run a risk of failure, but ive seen crazier shit before
 

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bein 12:1 i would doubt that you have all that much piston to valve clearance. so i would not be the one to want and float the valves and bounce them all over the place...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
personally i would have never built that engine using stock rods... but thats me.
the whole X rod thing is just old school BS. i have never seen anything so special to them as i would want to run them,

dimple rods are 7/16 bolt BBC rods. thats it.
and im pretty sure the pink rod was the early powder rods put in LT1's and such.

but back to topic. i wouldnt really push them much further. one of the main things to keepin a rod alive is a light piston. what kind of pistons are in it? even better yet you know the weight. cause you should have had it balanced. correct?
i agree its bs,but everyone says oh those are good rods.They look like any other gm rod ive ever seen,and they make me nervous.I wouldnt have built it with these rods either. When i started this project my wife bought the shortblock assembled as a gift,didnt have the heart to say it wasnt the way i would build it. I talked to the guy who built it and everything is done right except the rods . totaly balanced, torque plated, align honed, decked,high nickel block, the works. the pistons are speed pro hyperuetectic .100 dome heads intake and all the other goodies are from a buddy deal(cheap) As for the floating i dont want to do that i was joking. But the engine wants to turn more and i want to let it . just dont want to pick up the pieces after it grenades.
 

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is a fungineer
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There are 2 versions of X rods too, the 80's version has a thinner beam and thicker balance pads (on the ends) and are junk.

Stock rods are stock rods (other than PM rods), ARP bolts do help though. The only "good" stock rod would have been "pink" rods (factory magnafluxed and shot-peened), but you can do that to any other stock rod for relatively cheap.

We have to run stock rods in our circle track engine, per the rules no aftermarket rods are allowed. All I do is pick a set, mag, shot peen, resize w/ ARP bolts, and get 'em balanced wit hthe rest of the rotating assembly. My motor (in my buddy's car) has turned a little over 7000 at the end of the straight and been fine, it normally turns 6800 on a weekly basis.
 

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is a fungineer
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just stay away from powdered metal rods though... those are junk
GM says they're good to 500 horse, but I'm wary (read some horror stories). Supposed to be lighter though, I was looking into putting them in my circle track motor.
 

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Powdered metal rods are better than a lot of other stock rods, I wouldn't afraid to use them up to 500ft/lbs and short trips to 7K.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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all i know is the powdered rods they use in the 7.3 powerstrokes almost always come apart, ive taken a ton of 7.3's apart and the ones with the powdered rods usually have some sort of rod related failure inside

granted diesels make a shitload more torque than a gas engine, but the rods are also much bigger than gas, and they run a much lower rpm, and they still fail... i personally will not use a powdered metal rod if i was given a choice
 

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I'm a FREEK for SPEED!
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personally i would have never built that engine using stock rods... but thats me.
the whole X rod thing is just old school BS. i have never seen anything so special to them as i would want to run them,

but back to topic. I wouldn't really push them much further.
My thoughts exactly. Nothing but a stock rod. I think you are at the limit of the rods. I would be scared to run it as high as you are going. I wouldn't turn it any higher.
 

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ya with those heavy ass slugs i would not turn it up anymore. thats ALOT of weight your'e swinging around up there.

as far as powder rods goes it is all in the mixture there useing. they are know for bein brittle though.

and Maverick your comparing apples to oranges here... theres so many diffrence in that topic it is unreal. so we will just dismiss that subject.

Ka_jd. why arn't yall polishing the beams to?? thats just as important as shot peening.

and hey man you pop it then just rebuild it with a good set of I beam rods and light forged pistons. stay away from heavy ass H beams unless you get them for practically free.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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lol yeah i know it was a bit of a long shot comparing diesel rods to gas rods, but i still wouldnt use them, theres much better options out there
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ya with those heavy ass slugs i would not turn it up anymore. thats ALOT of weight your'e swinging around up there.

as far as powder rods goes it is all in the mixture there useing. they are know for bein brittle though.

and Maverick your comparing apples to oranges here... theres so many diffrence in that topic it is unreal. so we will just dismiss that subject.

Ka_jd. why arn't yall polishing the beams to?? thats just as important as shot peening.

and hey man you pop it then just rebuild it with a good set of I beam rods and light forged pistons. stay away from heavy ass H beams unless you get them for practically free.

if it pops and doesnt destroy block,heads,ect.
maybe look at a rotating assembly in the near future.
you dont like h beams for strength when using a forged crank?
 

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all i know is the powdered rods they use in the 7.3 powerstrokes almost always come apart, ive taken a ton of 7.3's apart and the ones with the powdered rods usually have some sort of rod related failure inside

granted diesels make a shitload more torque than a gas engine, but the rods are also much bigger than gas, and they run a much lower rpm, and they still fail... i personally will not use a powdered metal rod if i was given a choice
The *main* issue on the powerstrokes is the heat and pressures created in a diesel actually cause metal fatigue and with PM rods being as brittle as they are, the forging they undergo just makes it worse, and they shatter at the first weak point. Unless anyone is going to run 18:1 compression with 12lbs of boost and EGTs around 1700, it won't be an issue.
 

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I'm a FREEK for SPEED!
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I've never seen an engine that I would want to build after it has slung a rod.

I would not try to grenade your engine but be aware that it may be going to happen and just be ready and have some spare parts for your next build.

After market rods are a dime a dozen nowadays. I would just buy a set. Then on your next tear down have them balanced. This will be the least expensive way.
 

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no i dont like H beams they are WAY to heavy. unless you spend some real coin on them. AKA carrilo or similar.
there are plenty of I beam rods out there that are alot lighter and can support most any abuse you will throw at them with a stock 4 bolt block. SCAT has a pro comp rod out that would fit your build perfectly. start lookin at crower and oliver almost all there rods are now a I beam.

your bobweight on your engine is high. probally in the 1850-1900 range. with a set of good forged pistons. a light weight I beam rod. you can cut that bobweight down into the high 1600's and when your talkin 200-250 grams. that is ALOT.
 

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If you have to use stock rods get the rods that are .580 at the beam not the ones that are .510. As far as x and o don,t mean crap. Pink rods were heavy duty rods made by chevy for racing back in the day they weighted a ton and they were not powder metal. Piston weight plays a big part in rod life.
 
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