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Discussion Starter #1
So I just finished replacing the water pump, got everything back together, and was watching for leaks. I noticed the harmonic balancer didn't look right at all. Here is a you-tube video of the engine running. You might have to full-size the screen to see it well, but the balancer looks like it is running funky. I just don't know if it was doing it before the water pump change, but I noticed it right away now so I'm thinking this is new. Is one of my belts too tight?
 

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Boozebag
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The balancer has an elastomeric band holding the weight on the hub. It deteriorates over time and can cause the weight to shift making it out of sync to the hub and can also cause a wobble.
I suggest replacing the balancer. They are not very expensive.
This will affect vibration and in extreme cases, the crank can develop problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is this a difficult job? If I have to remove the water pump again I might need a new timing cover, judging from the two bolt holes I've stripped already.
 

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Boozebag
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All you have to do is remove the belts, the radiator shroud and it is accessible. You'll need a harmonic balance puller, they are cheap at Harbor Junk, or you can rent from one of the parts markets. Be careful re-installing it. a Hammer can mess it up. There is a specific tool to reinstall the balancer too. The parts guys may have it.
 

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The Harbor "Junk" as you say...lol puller also has the installation pieces iirc. Beee awhile nd am too lazy to go to the garage...
 

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My MAC harmonic balancer removal and installation tool has been one of my best investments. I always hated pulling the balancer on with a crank bolt. I was lucky and never stripped one, but there were a couple times it was a little touch and go.
 

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Boozebag
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I bought a balancer install tool on Ebay- I don't remember the price, but it works great. The Harbor Freight remover works well also.
Raven has a good point, the tool can mess the crank threads if you use the wrong cone adapter. You have to be careful and align it correctly, I also use grease on the "cone" adapter where it contacts the crank.

Overall, the job is not too complicated and usually takes about an hour to complete at a slow pace.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When I first bought my truck, my dad, who worked on the family cars his whole life until recently, seemed happy to cull his tools for "some of the older stuff" that he wouldn't use anymore. The box included the timing light, tach/dwell meter, compression gauge, old style torque wrench, other odds and ends, and lo, a balancer puller/installer. I used it on the crate 350 going into my el camino this summer, so this will be one thing I'm not doing for the first time. But it was out of the car with no fan, belts, etc. This shouldn't be too different I don't think.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All done. It is only about an hour's worth of actual work, but that got extended over a 2 day period due to 1) puzzling about how to get the crank bolt out, keeping the crank from turning. Finally solved it by hooking an allen wrench into one of the holes on the dampener and bracing the long end against the underside of the water pump. Probably not ideal but it worked pretty quickly.



The dampener looked pretty bad once I got it off.

2) my puller tool was not also an installer. Had to run up to OReilly's to rent the installer, which worked fine.





3) Once I got the new dampener on, and went to put on the pulley, I discovered that the replacement part had been tapped with the wrong size holes. Well, not the wrong size, it was still taking a 10 mm bolt, but with fine threads rather than course :censor:. Of course none of the weekend box stores had any M10 1.0 x 30mm, or 3/8 24 1-1/4", but I took a chance on Pep Boys out by the mall and sure enough, they had exactly four of the US ones, and in grade 8. Wow. :tup:





So if you are buying parts from this company, beware. That little difference cost me an hour on a weekend. Wouldn't have been a 10 minute problem on a weekday.

4) Got so excited to find the bolts and get the pulley on that I left off the extra AC pulley! Crud. Had to pull the bolts back out again and reinstall. The AC doesn't work, so I was tempted just not to put it on, but I figured if I ever did get it working, I didn't want to have to pull the fan off again and etc. At least I wasn't out of beer....



Got everything back together, looks good, no leaks. Drove the tool back to OReilly's, they also took the core off my hands even though its not on their core sheet.

5) What took up most of the time, however, was cooking and eating a nice pulled pork bbq with friends. For some reason I didn't get any pics of that.

I do have what I hope is one last water pump question. Is this wet spot on the gasket a bad sign?

 

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Boozebag
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Guess I was right about that "rubber band" on the balancer going bad... :haha:

Good move on the stainless hardware for the water pump!
I bet that the WP gasket is only stained. I don't think you will have any problem.
BTW, that A/C system is an aftermarket install. I don't know if it was a dealer install or an A/C shop install. Do you have an under dash A/C unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, the AC is under dash. I don't know the manufacturer--unmarked. Part of its not working was the blower under the dash. I got it working, but now the switches don't function correctly. The heater blows low on medium and medium on high, and the AC blower blows low on high only. I want to change to the new freon style but I'm pretty sure the compressor is bad. But mainly I've stalled on the switches. Duct doors seem to work ok-- I get air through the vents and heat on the bottom correctly, and air from dash vents on AC setting.
 

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Boozebag
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The compressor is a pretty common unit. It looks like a Sanden, although I could be mistaken. Try rotating the center section of the clutch... if it's not seized, chances are the compressor is ok.
Some of the aftermarket A/C assemblies had funky controls - leading me to believe that is the problem with the control switches.
Any pix of the interior?
 

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crice63
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