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Discussion Starter #1
i have an auto loc shaved door kit with a few extra channels on it and i want to hook up my valves to it with pancake up on one channel and pancake down on another. i already tested it out with one valve and one relay and got it working. my question is can i hook up all the fills to one realy and all the dumps to another and diode all of the wires? is there any problem with doing it like this?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, thats what i wanted to hear. i just didn't want to have to buy more relays, i already have a couple here and i have the diodes. thanks for the help
 

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can someone show me a wiring diagram for the relay and diode. Can you just pick the diodes up from Radio Shack? Looking at doing this my self when i get back. I've already wired and installed the shave door handle and brain for the remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hook up constant 12v to the 30 and 85 pin, the wire from the brain for whatever channel you want goes to 86, and whatever valves you want to run off that channel goes to 87. you basically need one relay for each channel. then put a diode on each wire in between where you tapped onto the valve wire and the relay, with the stripe away from the valve side
 

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saber07 said:
I thought you couldnt wire it up to your shaved door remote? I have the SPAL kit and I thought I read on here a while ago that it didnt work right? I think slammeddime said something about it...
i have the spal 7 channel kit and it works for me
 

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You guys are on the right track.. but I must note one thing!!

PLEASE install a kill for it you will get random interferience and it MAY trip your relay and dump the truck while driving ;) just keep that in mind.
 

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The other "BODY" man
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Just get 12 volt diodes,, doesn't matter what amp or anything,, just get something that will handle 12 volts regular!

Then you will wire your autoloc output to one relay, 85 or 86 pin

and your power into your relay will be 30 or 87, and then run your output from the relay to your valves you want the realy to control with the diodes inline with each wire to each valve!
Diodes are basically one way streets, lets power go one way and not back through!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok, one more question. is there any way to reduce the amount of time it opens the valves? i only had about 100 psi in my tank and it fills the back way too quick. i know the back is gonna be quicker but i don't want it to fill all the way up, i have sleeve bags and don't want them to over extend. i'm gonna have shocks limiting the travel of the bagsbut i don't want too much pressure going to them. if anyone knows a way let me know, otherwise i'll just hook up my front to the remote. thanks
 

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Lifted 2wd & Bodied 4x4
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ShattyFatmas said:
ok, one more question. is there any way to reduce the amount of time it opens the valves? i only had about 100 psi in my tank and it fills the back way too quick. i know the back is gonna be quicker but i don't want it to fill all the way up, i have sleeve bags and don't want them to over extend. i'm gonna have shocks limiting the travel of the bagsbut i don't want too much pressure going to them. if anyone knows a way let me know, otherwise i'll just hook up my front to the remote. thanks
my brother did this on his truck and the valve stays open for as long as you hold the button. So if you hold it for a half a second it'll only open the valves for a half a second and only drop/raise it an inch or so. If you hold the button for 5 seconds the truck'll either air all the way up or air out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well i'm pressing the button as quickly as i can but its still too fast, thats why i was wondering if there was anything else that i can do. when i lift the back with my switchbox i have to flick the switch, if i actually press it all the way it lifts too fast. i was kind of expecting it to do this so its not a big deal, i'll probably just end up hooking the fills up to the front only
 

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ShattyFatmas said:
well i'm pressing the button as quickly as i can but its still too fast, thats why i was wondering if there was anything else that i can do. when i lift the back with my switchbox i have to flick the switch, if i actually press it all the way it lifts too fast. i was kind of expecting it to do this so its not a big deal, i'll probably just end up hooking the fills up to the front only
sounds like you have too big of valves
 

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DJDAudio said:
You guys are on the right track.. but I must note one thing!!

PLEASE install a kill for it you will get random interferience and it MAY trip your relay and dump the truck while driving ;) just keep that in mind.
I have a street light by my house, when it changes green my drivers door pops open, its happened 3 times in the same spot.
 

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xmb63 said:
I have a street light by my house, when it changes green my drivers door pops open, its happened 3 times in the same spot.
ROFL
:rotf: I think it is telling you something ;)
 
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