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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those who have seen my project thread, I was able to get around to mocking up the wilwood clutch master and now have some dimensions on the install. I got the idea for using it from turbobandit for my 5.3L swap. I believe the t-56 trans that i'm using in my v8 swap has the same connection on the slave cylinder as the nv1500 (2.2L) and nv3500 (4.3L) so this swap should work for you guys not wanting to relocate your stock clutch master.

Side by side:





Clutch master came from summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-10374/?rtype=10

Hydraulic line needed: (I ordered a 36" line for a few extra $$)

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-475-ls1-clutch-line-new.aspx

Went to a local Ace hardware and used a 5/16" bolt, hacked the head off of the bolt, then used 2 sleeve nuts to attach to the master.


Also picked up a square nut, welded it onto one of the ends of the sleeve nut and drilled out the threads to the same diameter as the eyelet on the stock clutch master. The square nut I bought was about 1/2" thick and I had to shave some of the face of it off because it wasn't the same thickness as the stock clutch master and would not have fit on the clutch pedal.



Measure the width of the stock clutch master's arm and get the square nut to the same thickness.






Stock for reference w/o firewall tub:





Wilwood master:

Before firewall tub (tires: 255/35R20)









After firewall tub (I lay out on the firewall still, but it's set up this way so I wont lay out on the oil pan used on my v8 swap. There is still about 1.25" of clearance between the clutch master and the tire. I haven't had a chance to lay the truck out yet, its still on jack stands, but it should lay the xtreme kit with my setup.)










These are pics from my project thread and this is as far as i've gotten as of now. Hopefully in the coming months, i'll be able to test it out and see how it performs.

As for the hydraulic line, I don't have my old nv1500 or access to a nv3500 to confirm if the fitting on the slave cylinder is the same as the slave cylinder the t-56 has but a quick google search yeilded this as the stock line:



The connection for the slave cylinder on the stock line looks to be the same as the one I ordred from hinsonsupercars.com (link above)





Borrowed this pic from turbobandit's install (http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/t56-guys-with-shifting-problems-solved-447193/) Many thanks to turbobandit for the info and pics in his thread. I would not have known about this clutch master otherwise. Use a 90* fitting to attach the line to the clutch master.



I do not know how this clutch master will work on a body dropped truck or with a tire that has a larger than stock diameter, but for those not wanting to take on the task of relocating the stock clutch master this is an alternative route.

**You will not be able to use the stock ignition kill switch on the wilwood clutch master so you will need to jump the wires together and always remember not to start the truck in gear w/o the clutch pedal depressed.

Unfortunately, I am only able to provide clearance measurements for this install. I do not have my 5.3L in yet and I do not know how it will perform with the nv1500 or nv3500. If anyone does this swap with the nv1500/3500, please post up your results for performance and fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did some more reading about the hydraulic line and saw that the other guys using the t56 trans in their v8 swap were using the stock hydraulic line so the hinsonsupercars.com line should work no problem. Only other thing to consider would be the change in the clutch stroke. It may cause the clutch to grab earlier/later.
 

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very nice chase. i think im going to be looking into this because i havent relocated mine yet (just had to angle it a bit to clear) but i only have about 1/2 inch of clearence. So this swap would definetly be a good idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whatever happened with your clutch? last time I was in your truck, the pedal was all the way up to the steering wheel! lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That would be a good thing to look into if you dont have a remote bleeder on the slave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
255/35/20's
 

· DELIBERATE DESIGNS
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After comparing this with a stock master, i'd be careful about running it.

A stock master is 0.7 inch bore diameter and has about 1.4 inches of stroke, displacement=1.08 cubic inches.

The master in this thread is a 0.875 bore diameter with 1.12 inches of stroke, displacement=1.35 cubic inches.

The displacement when fully pressed is greater on the wilwood than the stock master. Which could cause you to damage/blow your slave cylinder if you were to press the pedal all the way down.

A better option would be this, it shares the same bore diameter and stroke as stock: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-6579/

It is a little shorter and moves the fitting to the top side of the master for additional clearance.
 

· DELIBERATE DESIGNS
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I dont have one in my personal truck yet. I have used them in clutch kits though and everyone says they work amazing. A lot more smooth and uniform pedal movement then stock.

I do have one in the garage though, I will put it up next to the stock s10 master tomorrow when I am out there for comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the information Jordan. The bigger bore was recommended for the t56 swap in my 5.3l build. Not sure about the size difference between the nv1500/3500 and the t56 slaves, but it is probably a better idea to stick with the size closest to stock. The bigger size helps for quick shifts in t56 though.
 
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