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For those who have seen my project thread, I was able to get around to mocking up the wilwood clutch master and now have some dimensions on the install. I got the idea for using it from turbobandit for my 5.3L swap. I believe the t-56 trans that i'm using in my v8 swap has the same connection on the slave cylinder as the nv1500 (2.2L) and nv3500 (4.3L) so this swap should work for you guys not wanting to relocate your stock clutch master.
Side by side:
Clutch master came from summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-10374/?rtype=10
Hydraulic line needed: (I ordered a 36" line for a few extra $$)
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-475-ls1-clutch-line-new.aspx
Went to a local Ace hardware and used a 5/16" bolt, hacked the head off of the bolt, then used 2 sleeve nuts to attach to the master.
Also picked up a square nut, welded it onto one of the ends of the sleeve nut and drilled out the threads to the same diameter as the eyelet on the stock clutch master. The square nut I bought was about 1/2" thick and I had to shave some of the face of it off because it wasn't the same thickness as the stock clutch master and would not have fit on the clutch pedal.
Measure the width of the stock clutch master's arm and get the square nut to the same thickness.
Stock for reference w/o firewall tub:
Wilwood master:
Before firewall tub (tires: 255/35R20)
After firewall tub (I lay out on the firewall still, but it's set up this way so I wont lay out on the oil pan used on my v8 swap. There is still about 1.25" of clearance between the clutch master and the tire. I haven't had a chance to lay the truck out yet, its still on jack stands, but it should lay the xtreme kit with my setup.)
These are pics from my project thread and this is as far as i've gotten as of now. Hopefully in the coming months, i'll be able to test it out and see how it performs.
As for the hydraulic line, I don't have my old nv1500 or access to a nv3500 to confirm if the fitting on the slave cylinder is the same as the slave cylinder the t-56 has but a quick google search yeilded this as the stock line:
The connection for the slave cylinder on the stock line looks to be the same as the one I ordred from hinsonsupercars.com (link above)
Borrowed this pic from turbobandit's install (http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/t56-guys-with-shifting-problems-solved-447193/) Many thanks to turbobandit for the info and pics in his thread. I would not have known about this clutch master otherwise. Use a 90* fitting to attach the line to the clutch master.
I do not know how this clutch master will work on a body dropped truck or with a tire that has a larger than stock diameter, but for those not wanting to take on the task of relocating the stock clutch master this is an alternative route.
**You will not be able to use the stock ignition kill switch on the wilwood clutch master so you will need to jump the wires together and always remember not to start the truck in gear w/o the clutch pedal depressed.
Unfortunately, I am only able to provide clearance measurements for this install. I do not have my 5.3L in yet and I do not know how it will perform with the nv1500 or nv3500. If anyone does this swap with the nv1500/3500, please post up your results for performance and fitment.
Side by side:


Clutch master came from summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-10374/?rtype=10
Hydraulic line needed: (I ordered a 36" line for a few extra $$)
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-475-ls1-clutch-line-new.aspx
Went to a local Ace hardware and used a 5/16" bolt, hacked the head off of the bolt, then used 2 sleeve nuts to attach to the master.

Also picked up a square nut, welded it onto one of the ends of the sleeve nut and drilled out the threads to the same diameter as the eyelet on the stock clutch master. The square nut I bought was about 1/2" thick and I had to shave some of the face of it off because it wasn't the same thickness as the stock clutch master and would not have fit on the clutch pedal.

Measure the width of the stock clutch master's arm and get the square nut to the same thickness.

Stock for reference w/o firewall tub:


Wilwood master:
Before firewall tub (tires: 255/35R20)




After firewall tub (I lay out on the firewall still, but it's set up this way so I wont lay out on the oil pan used on my v8 swap. There is still about 1.25" of clearance between the clutch master and the tire. I haven't had a chance to lay the truck out yet, its still on jack stands, but it should lay the xtreme kit with my setup.)




These are pics from my project thread and this is as far as i've gotten as of now. Hopefully in the coming months, i'll be able to test it out and see how it performs.
As for the hydraulic line, I don't have my old nv1500 or access to a nv3500 to confirm if the fitting on the slave cylinder is the same as the slave cylinder the t-56 has but a quick google search yeilded this as the stock line:

The connection for the slave cylinder on the stock line looks to be the same as the one I ordred from hinsonsupercars.com (link above)


Borrowed this pic from turbobandit's install (http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/t56-guys-with-shifting-problems-solved-447193/) Many thanks to turbobandit for the info and pics in his thread. I would not have known about this clutch master otherwise. Use a 90* fitting to attach the line to the clutch master.

I do not know how this clutch master will work on a body dropped truck or with a tire that has a larger than stock diameter, but for those not wanting to take on the task of relocating the stock clutch master this is an alternative route.
**You will not be able to use the stock ignition kill switch on the wilwood clutch master so you will need to jump the wires together and always remember not to start the truck in gear w/o the clutch pedal depressed.
Unfortunately, I am only able to provide clearance measurements for this install. I do not have my 5.3L in yet and I do not know how it will perform with the nv1500 or nv3500. If anyone does this swap with the nv1500/3500, please post up your results for performance and fitment.