[bl1871]

P0135 is an 02 sensor heater circuit. That has it's own fuse and circuit and likely isn't related to the issue. UNLESS they share the same space within a harness and are shorting between them due to damaged wire insulation.

The other 5 codes are all transmission solenoid codes. Which of course if the power feed to them isn't working, then they would all throw a code.

To me all signs are pointing to that power circuit. I would inspect all the wiring I can get to under the truck and behind the dash fuse box/ignition switch and look for any possible damage or corroded connectors etc.
It could be a damaged wire, corroded, dirty or loose connector or a stressed wire/connector that may have gotten too warm.

P0135 is an 02 sensor heater circuit. That has it's own fuse and circuit and likely isn't related to the issue. UNLESS they share the same space within a harness and are shorting between them due to damaged wire insulation.

The other 5 codes are all transmission solenoid codes. Which of course if the power feed to them isn't working, then they would all throw a code.

To me all signs are pointing to that power circuit. I would inspect all the wiring I can get to under the truck and behind the dash fuse box/ignition switch and look for any possible damage or corroded connectors etc.
It could be a damaged wire, corroded, dirty or loose connector or a stressed wire/connector that may have gotten too warm.

No, reaction on the ignition giggle.

 

[bl1871]

P0135 is an 02 sensor heater circuit. That has it's own fuse and circuit and likely isn't related to the issue. UNLESS they share the same space within a harness and are shorting between them due to damaged wire insulation.

The other 5 codes are all transmission solenoid codes. Which of course if the power feed to them isn't working, then they would all throw a code.

To me all signs are pointing to that power circuit. I would inspect all the wiring I can get to under the truck and behind the dash fuse box/ignition switch and look for any possible damage or corroded connectors etc.
It could be a damaged wire, corroded, dirty or loose connector or a stressed wire/connector that may have gotten too warm.

So your instinct/experience says it is in the dash and not the main ground, correct? Also pointers for getting in the dash? And compatible gauge clusters? Thanks👍

 

[CruisinS10]

to me it seems like that power circuit, but where the difficult part is, is finding the damage. It's easier to damage wiring under the truck than behind the dash, but with these older vehicles anything is possible.

It's even possible the wiring is damaged at the trans or inside the trans.

I believe you can get the cluster out just by removing the bezel around the cluster, In my 2000 there's one screw at the top above the cluster, and two screws at the bottom of the bezel just behind the knee bolster/panel which can be loosened enough to get to the screws, You can completely remove the panel but you'd also need to remove the closeout panel just above the pedals. Maybe an internal cluster issue is throwing the whole circuit out of whack?

You can check the back side of the dash fuse box as well, it's unlikely but maybe someone tapped a wire for an aftermarket accessory. Just grasping at anything I can think of here.

You mentioned hitting a bump may sometimes get the gauges working and makes the trans try to shift. It definitely sounds like a wire shorting out or losing connection somewhere.

You can double check ecu grounds to be sure. there's 3 wires, white with a black stripe, and they ground at engine block on the right side.
But I'm certain a bad ecu ground would cause more ecu related issues.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

If you're going to pull the cluster out, you should drop the steering column. It's really easy to bust off the emergency flasher if you don't. There is a part number somewhere on the forum for a repair kit. It doesn't involve removing the multi function switch.

 

[bl1871]

Is there a way of checking all of that wiring in the dash on that tcc/gauge cluster circuit without pulling the cluster?

 

[bl1871]

Is there a way of checking all of that wiring in the dash on that tcc/gauge cluster circuit without pulling the cluster?

So cleaned all main grounds and still shoty juice to gauges and transmission is still acting funky. How do you check all the wiring on that cluster, tcc circuit? Thanks.

 

[CruisinS10]

You can use a digital multi meter to measure the resistance in the wires.
For instance you can use a set of longer test leads,test their resistance (should be zero or very close to it) then probe the circuit, one end at the fuse, and the other end at the cluster or the transmission. You can at least check to make sure the wire has no resistance through it. Hopefully it can point you in the right direction as to where on the circuit the problem lies.

 

[bl1871]

The fuse box in the dash looks good at the connections, my wires coming out of 11 are orange., Every where that I can see the wires look good, but that's with just guage cluster removed and glove box removed. What about the ecu being fried or not grounded well enough? thanks.

 

[bl1871]

Need more ideas, chime in please. Thanks everybody👍.

 

[bl1871]

Update, since cleaning up grounds gauges still come on in accessory key position (always have) but go off on startup, shut motor off and restart and gushes come on while engine is running ( this is the change since cleaning up some grounds). Shifting is still not in the cards though it sounds like it is trying. Ideas? Thanks👍

 

[Jayhawke]

ok- starting to sound like you had multiply issues. there is a ground loop wired to the dash just below the gauge cluster- do no recall if that one is for the column also.

 

[bl1871]

ok- starting to sound like you had multiply issues. there is a ground loop wired to the dash just below the gauge cluster- do no recall if that one is for the column also.

👍, Didn't see it when I was in there but I wasn't looking, will definitely be checking it, thanks.

 

[Ownmanytrks]

The solenoids in the trans get power through the Instrument Cluster Fuse #11 in the Fuse panel on the left side of the dash.

I noticed your other posts regarding your gauges dropping out, and your trans getting stuck in one gear. Sounds like that circuit would be the starting point. It could be as simple as a corroded or loose fuse. I had a car where someone shoved a wire under the fuse to tap into it for an accessory, bent the pin and made connection terrible.

That circuit gets powered directly from the ignition switch. A white wire goes from the ignition switch to the fuse, then it's pink wire to the cluster and off to the transmission.
It's possible you have a connection problem at a connector, an ignition switch problem or a damaged wire somewhere.

Im not one of their technical people but under alternator issues if you look I've pulled the harness with the transmission plug in it. My efforts will show you every connection that's in that harness. The transmission may receive signals from other components as you do things but if there is any problem in that harness the siginals won't be read by the computer correctly.

 

[Ownmanytrks]

Just for you here's the harness and your transmission plug is the one on the white rag.

 

[Ownmanytrks]

I had to go all the way to fix my problem. Once I'd checked all the places that my short was by unplugging everything I knew by simply checking for continuity on the wires that issue was in that harness. John Deere electrical school in Conyers Georgia taught me to isolate by unplugging sections of the harnesses first. That keeps my efforts going in the right direction and reduces down time and labor. The labor part is what makes me happy since im not getting paid for working on my trucks. Ant time you can look under the hood and see that much floor it's labor. At least now im on the way back. Always feels better to reach the turn around spot on any job.