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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 91 s10 with the 4.3

Need to put a new set of plugs in as the ones put in are fouled.

They were the NGK v-power copper core.

The engine leaks alittle oil onto the plugs, maybe 1qt every 3k miles.

What would be the best plugs to help with not fouling another set?

Either brand or type(copper,plat, etc) would be really helpful.

I had good luck with the NGK Iridium IX in my subi, I'm considering those as I had heard that they might be better, but the other NGK were only in there maybe 9 months or 9k miles and theres already a miss(which I determined was the plugs after pulling them). If i can expect that out of any plug then the cheaper the better right?

Other things I am considering are obviously fuel mileage and performance.

Price limit I would be looking at is at max about 8 bucks a plug, was considering the Pulstars but haven't heard many good points on them.

Thanks in advance
 

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i saw what you did there!
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cr43ts

ac delco

dont run anything else on stock 4.3

the oil on plug threads is comign from the bad valve cover gaskets

replace the gaskets and that wont happen anymore

oil leaking on them has nothing to do with what plugs to use

if its burning that much oil then you have some issues and needs work done internally soon

you are just trying to band aid a problem internally, wasting money on fancy plugs you dont need

rings or valve guides shot if not the valve stem seals missing gone(most comon issue on older chevies causing oil burning and loss)

try thicker oil, that will band aid it much better than any plugs you could ever put in it

new valve stem seals on the intake valves as well, in which mine needs badly at 205k miles

i run 15w40 oil in mine but it still using some oil but not as bad as it did with 10w30
 

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AC-Delco CR43TS or Radipfire. High dollar plugs are a waste of money
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ill try the delcos,

The oil isn't on the threads though, just on the electrode.

Would this be the valve guides?

It isn't much oil, like I said maybe a qt every oil change.

Not really in a situation where I can deal with the internal problems, just seeing if a hotter firing plug would make a difference.

I know the Subaru is different, but I saw a 3mpg jump when switching to the NGK Iridium plugs and the plugs that I took out were less than 1500 miles old.
 

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General L33
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Google Iridium and you will find that it is a very hard metal. Companies have found that this metal is less expensive than platinum so they're making little iridium discs that go on the firing points of the spark plugs. This hard metal keeps the plug from eroding so it will have a longer service interval. That's it. It's like buying harder rubber compound tires. The only thing it's good for is wear prevention, you're traction goes to crap.

Get a set of either standard ac delcos or the rapid fires. You shouldn't have to spend a lot of money on plugs if you're just constantly changing them out. When I first got my license I spent a ton of money on different plugs trying to make my cars run better, I tried them all. Only to find out that if you don't fix the initial problems different plugs won't do jack for ya.

Get a higher temp thermostat so your truck will run around 190-210 degrees, switch to a little higher weight oil, check your plug wires/rotor/distributor cap, and hopefully that'll help the longevity of the plugs until you can afford a rebuild.

If the truck is puffing blue smoke when firing it up from sitting for a while, it's the valve stem seals, oil will leak down the valves into the combustion chamber and burn off the oil when you fire it up. If it's blowing smoke the whole time you're driving it's the rings. Try putting a bottle of restore in with your next oil change. I really don't beleive in putting something in your oil pan that you have to shake up prior to dispensing, but I've been running it in my daughter's 88 jimmy with 198K on the clock and it seems to keep the oil burning down some.

good luck!

*EDIT* PS, don't run high mileage oil. It softens your seals up so you leak more oil and will cause more problems than help.
 

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It' s known fact that the valve seals on 88 up to 93 TBI engines
were junk. In fact GM sent out a TSB on the problem. The worse side
is on the exhaust. Both intake & exhaust need to be changed to umbrella style seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Google Iridium and you will find that it is a very hard metal. Companies have found that this metal is less expensive than platinum so they're making little iridium discs that go on the firing points of the spark plugs. This hard metal keeps the plug from eroding so it will have a longer service interval. That's it. It's like buying harder rubber compound tires. The only thing it's good for is wear prevention, you're traction goes to crap.

Get a set of either standard ac delcos or the rapid fires. You shouldn't have to spend a lot of money on plugs if you're just constantly changing them out. When I first got my license I spent a ton of money on different plugs trying to make my cars run better, I tried them all. Only to find out that if you don't fix the initial problems different plugs won't do jack for ya.

Get a higher temp thermostat so your truck will run around 190-210 degrees, switch to a little higher weight oil, check your plug wires/rotor/distributor cap, and hopefully that'll help the longevity of the plugs until you can afford a rebuild.

If the truck is puffing blue smoke when firing it up from sitting for a while, it's the valve stem seals, oil will leak down the valves into the combustion chamber and burn off the oil when you fire it up. If it's blowing smoke the whole time you're driving it's the rings. Try putting a bottle of restore in with your next oil change. I really don't beleive in putting something in your oil pan that you have to shake up prior to dispensing, but I've been running it in my daughter's 88 jimmy with 198K on the clock and it seems to keep the oil burning down some.

good luck!

*EDIT* PS, don't run high mileage oil. It softens your seals up so you leak more oil and will cause more problems than help.

Its the valve stem seals then, just a puff of blue smoke at starting and none any other time.

I think the reason I am having them foul so often is the fact that the truck almost never gets up to temp. My average drive in it is about 2-3 miles to school. I take every week or so and drive it enough to get it up to the right temperature, the thermostat in it is a 195.

The plug wires/cap/rotor are all new this month. Ill try a higher weight oil, just a thought, is the lucas oil stabilizer or any other viscosity increasing additives worth it?

I put some Bar's stop leak in last oil change and there was no oil used for the first 1500 miles or so but its started again. I've been wary about putting more in as i've heard it can cause more harm then good.

Thanks all for the thoughts.

I still say the NGK iridiums did wonders in my subaru. I replaced the NGK copper cores, which are the OEM for this subi, after about 1500 miles of use and saw the gas mileage consistently go up 4mpg highway.

I have heard mix opinions all over though, maybe I just got a good batch, or a bad batch of coppers to begin with lol.

Given all of this, there really doesn't even seem to be a point to the rapid fires, unless im missing something. if the metal only makes a different for the life expectancy of the plug then I guess ill go with the copper delcos. Just seems so counter intuitive that the best plug for the job would be 2 bucks a piece.

No complaints though :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh, whats a good company to get either a rebuild kit or some valve stem seals from?

Not really to sure with the gaskets/seals thing and I know its to much work to have to redo due to shit quality
 
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