[DnS1821]

Without looking at details of wiring diagram for a 87 the computer primes your pump for 3 seconds with key on then once started the oil pressure switch activates the relay once running. The ignition signal from distributor tells injectors to open / pulse. With the computer not getting signal i dont know if it would shut down the pump relay or not. perhaps the yoda of wiring diagrams @oldeerslayer can enlighten.

My way of thinking and i may be way wrong: Use the oil pressure switch to trigger the electric pump relay, which it already does, for a safe way of operation. No oil pressure no pump. With a carb you should have plenty in the bowl to get it started and build pressure for the switch to activate the relay. There is also a prime terminal under the hood for the pump if the float bowl is dry. I am not sure it works if computer for all intents and purposes is gone.

To me the saftey issue is you do not want the pump running without engine running.

What would you think about wiring up the fuel pump to a completely new fuse and relay that only had power with key on?

 

[DnS1821]

And oh yeah i would definately get the carb with electric choke, not the one with a hot pipe connection to manifold.

Dually noted

 

[944v8indfw]

What would you think about wiring up the fuel pump to a completely new fuse and relay that only had power with key on?

Not safe in my opinion unless you use some sort of fail safe. Wiring is already there for some protection with oil pressure, why not use it? Very minor mods to make it work.
Think about this: how would you like to be in a ditch on your side unable to turn off the key and there is a fire starting?

 

[DnS1821]

Not safe in my opinion unless you use some sort of fail safe. Wiring is already there for some protection with oil pressure, why not use it? Very minor mods to make it work.
Think about this: how would you like to be in a ditch on your side unable to turn off the key and there is a fire starting?

Noted again. I think I’ll stick with your idea!

 

[DnS1821]

Not safe in my opinion unless you use some sort of fail safe. Wiring is already there for some protection with oil pressure, why not use it? Very minor mods to make it work.
Think about this: how would you like to be in a ditch on your side unable to turn off the key and there is a fire starting?

One more thing. Since I’m planning on installing all new gauges myself could I cut out almost all of the engine wiring harness? What all would I absolutely have to have? I know I’ll need to leave oil pressure stuff to run the pump. Is that all?

 

[944v8indfw]

Honestly I would get the basic carb swap done and running first before any other mods. Why not use the factory gauge panel? It works, the sensors match, its analog so no computer needed.

 

[DnS1821]

Honestly I would get the basic carb swap done and running first before any other mods. Why not use the factory gauge panel? It works, the sensors match, its analog so no computer needed.

Two reasons. 1 Being I thought they were electrical and needed the computer 😂 and 2 being that I have an idea for a custom set up with after market gauges and a carbon fiber wrapped bezel around them

 

[944v8indfw]

Get it running and driving first, then you can determine if it is viable for throwing more money at it. If you are worried about a $400+ carb then a custom gauge set is going well over that even if you hack in cheap china gauges. Major concerns on custom gauges are generally two fold. 1) Speedometer and 2) fuel gauge.

No trying to discourage you on modding the truck to make it your own, just trying to add a sense of first things first type thing. This is coming from a guy (me) that has made most of the car mistakes at least twice. Break down the finished product into phases that are manageable. Be a shame to spend $1000 on gauges and rewiring and the engine don't run. At that point it is hard to diagnose why. Was it faulty wiring and gauge install or still the engine? Yes i have done that one too.

Look on any sales site, Craigslist, Facebook marketplace and you can find nice cars trucks and bikes that have been horribly hacked never finished that are being sold for pennies on the dollar invested. Like i said not trying to discourage but perhaps give you a little advice on mod management. I have bought a couple just for 1 or 2 parts like a hood or bumpers and sold the rest to a scrap yard for weight.

Not terribly long ago i bought a project truck just for the brand new Warn Evo winch with all the tricks. Winch had never been used and had $500ish worth of accessories around $1500 total. Bought the entire truck for $450 pulled the winch and doo dads hot-wired the engine enough to make it run and sold the truck to a local Toyota scrapper for $700.

 

[DnS1821]

Get it running and driving first, then you can determine if it is viable for throwing more money at it. If you are worried about a $400+ carb then a custom gauge set is going well over that even if you hack in cheap china gauges. Major concerns on custom gauges are generally two fold. 1) Speedometer and 2) fuel gauge.

No trying to discourage you on modding the truck to make it your own, just trying to add a sense of first things first type thing. This is coming from a guy (me) that has made most of the car mistakes at least twice. Break down the finished product into phases that are manageable. Be a shame to spend $1000 on gauges and rewiring and the engine don't run. At that point it is hard to diagnose why. Was it faulty wiring and gauge install or still the engine? Yes i have done that one too.

Look on any sales site, Craigslist, Facebook marketplace and you can find nice cars trucks and bikes that have been horribly hacked never finished that are being sold for pennies on the dollar invested. Like i said not trying to discourage but perhaps give you a little advice on mod management. I have bought a couple just for 1 or 2 parts like a hood or bumpers and sold the rest to a scrap yard for weight.

Not terribly long ago i bought a project truck just for the brand new Warn Evo winch with all the tricks. Winch had never been used and had $500ish worth of accessories around $1500 total. Bought the entire truck for $450 pulled the winch and doo dads hot-wired the engine enough to make it run and sold the truck to a local Toyota scrapper for $700.

I definitely plan on getting all the practical stuff done first, I have a list of parts and prices and I plan on selling my old tbi parts to make up for some of that cost. The gauges and all of that will come after.

 

[82-454]

I'm working on a propane conversion for my 87 4 cylinder. I found an HEI distributer from a pre fuel injection engine. Holly makes a fuel injection 1 barrel for a strait 6. It is a little pricy but that sure would be nice. I think a 2 barrel for a V8 would be way to much. Find a single barrel from a strait 6. My philosophy is always get the engine running first. Then make it drivable. Save all the customization last. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[DnS1821]

Get it running and driving first, then you can determine if it is viable for throwing more money at it. If you are worried about a $400+ carb then a custom gauge set is going well over that even if you hack in cheap china gauges. Major concerns on custom gauges are generally two fold. 1) Speedometer and 2) fuel gauge.

No trying to discourage you on modding the truck to make it your own, just trying to add a sense of first things first type thing. This is coming from a guy (me) that has made most of the car mistakes at least twice. Break down the finished product into phases that are manageable. Be a shame to spend $1000 on gauges and rewiring and the engine don't run. At that point it is hard to diagnose why. Was it faulty wiring and gauge install or still the engine? Yes i have done that one too.

Look on any sales site, Craigslist, Facebook marketplace and you can find nice cars trucks and bikes that have been horribly hacked never finished that are being sold for pennies on the dollar invested. Like i said not trying to discourage but perhaps give you a little advice on mod management. I have bought a couple just for 1 or 2 parts like a hood or bumpers and sold the rest to a scrap yard for weight.

Not terribly long ago i bought a project truck just for the brand new Warn Evo winch with all the tricks. Winch had never been used and had $500ish worth of accessories around $1500 total. Bought the entire truck for $450 pulled the winch and doo dads hot-wired the engine enough to make it run and sold the truck to a local Toyota scrapper for $700.

Would a two barrel carb work well for this conversion? I have a two barrel carb I can use and easily make a mounting plate for or I can order a 1 barrel Rochester from eBay and rebuild it. Would the two barrel put out too much gas for the 2.5?

 

[944v8indfw]

Do the things that is proven with the tiny two barrel. Dont be a crash test dummy/

 

[manbearpig]

I'll just leave this here lol...

 

[S10BROOKLANDS]

I have a 1987 2.5 s10 5 speed and have had an extremely difficult time with my computer and getting everything running with the computer so I was wondering what all it would take to just carb swap the 2.5 tbi?

I just took 2 pieces of aluminum bar about 3/8 inch thick (each) and fashioned out an adapter plate. The throat is a little rough but I also just recently sold off my CNC Milling machine, which, if I had it, could have made the part beautifully. I bought a new single throat carb....installed it....NEXT STEP: The HEI distrib does not work for a carb system. So you have to change out distributer......A LOCAL MECHANIC SHOP ONLY 1 MILE FROM MY HOUSE TOLD ME SATURDAY YOU CAN PURCASE THE INTERNALS (MODULE OF CONDENSER AND POINTS) AND INSTALL THEM IN THE ORIGINAL DISTRIBUTER. Well I've been searching, searching....searching. So far cannot find. AND CANNOT EVEN FIND AN OLD STYLE POINTS-CONDENSER COMPLETE DISTRIBUTER, but will resume the search tomorrow.

By the way, I mentioned ALUMINUM.....I have seen a YouTube vid where someone even made adapter from wood.

 

[Mad Max]

Not to dig up an old thread... BUT...
GM made 5 intake manifolds over the years for these POSs. There was never a carb version intake for an 89 Duke. IIRC, the last carb was on an 83 Jeep or Citation. Everything newer was TBI. Jeep used the Duke for 3 years from 81 to 83. The intake was totally different for later years. Spelled - it won't work.
I have a custom made intake with a Holley 2 barrel base that was fabricated for this conversion. I'll try and post pix soon.
The easiest way to go "carb" is to use a Chevy 250 six cylinder one barrel and fab a simple adapter.
You'll have to figure out a throttle linkage - particularly if your rig has a 700 R4 in it. The TV cable is critical for the transmission.
A pre 1984 distributor is required also. They are on line rebuilt. HEI with the big cap. One wire and you're done
DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT hack any wiring off. You can simp ly tie wrap all of the wires and move then under the HVAC in the engine bay. You are probably not a member of the ABU (hopefully) - Amalgamated Butchers Union
I have used a "T" fitting to bypass the high pressure from the TBI fuel pump. This will be more than adequate for a carb without having to change stuff. You simply add the "T" to the pressure side and rout it to the return. The "T" leg goes to the carb.
If you PM me, I can add detail.
There are a feww threads here that have done this conversion successfully.

I've done a few conversions on S10s that worked very well...

 

[DnS1821]

Sorry to revive this thread but i wanted to ask if anyone has found a carb adapter for sale anywhere for the 2.4 4 cylinder as the ones lined on the first page don’t fit. I bought the composite plastic one and it doesn’t not line up no matter how you put it in

 

[tmbrake84]

I'll just leave this here lol...

View attachment 363074

That's niiiiice!!!! Can dream I guess

 

[ladkii]

I believe all your gauges are analog so no worrier there. I am about 90% sure your speedometer is mechanical with a drive cable to the transmission. I would touch zero dash wiring until you have the carb setup working if you are so inclined. If you add an external tach you can pickup the signal on the HEI distributor.
panorama charter

192.168.1.1

 

[Mad Max]

1983 Jeep Iron Duke. Has the Chevy Small block bell hosing bolt pattern - RARE!!
Bell housing has the Ford transmission bolt pattern.
1987 Ford Turbo T Bird 5 speed Borg Warner T5


Heavily modified -
High compression Chevy small block pistons
500 lift 96* HUGE cam
Big block Chevy roller rockers
Ported head with large intake exhaust valves from an Olds 350
Chevy 327 small journal I beam rods
Aluminum timing gear set
Balanced rotating assembly
Lightened flywheel
Offehauser 4 barrel intake
Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel Carb
HEI distributor with advance curve modified
Stock exhaust manifold opened to 2.5"
Heavy duty 10" clutch assembly

Once installed and run in, I'll dyno it to see what kind of power it makes...

So, can you carb an Iron Duke?
The answer is yes - sort of.
As I previously posted... they make intakes for the early Dukes, but later editions require some skill and imagination.

 

[tmbrake84]

First thing I saw was shifter on the tail, nice setup bro