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I thought I would post sort of a final update on my S10/350 swap project. After my last post, I finally got the truck to the point where I could test drive it. It did no go well. After a block or so, it slipped into neutral and I had to limp back to my shop. The transmission was toast, even though it was a built TH350 that had been sitting in my shop for years.

I took it to a local transmission shop I have used in the past and who I trust, and they tore it down and told me everything inside was wiped out, and that it had also contaminated my $ 400 torque convertor. So, I had them rebuild it ( $1005.00) and I ordered a new torque convertor. When I got it back we reinstalled the transmission and this time it drove fine.

The only issues are, the engine is a little too radical for just a daily driver, it idles like a fuel dragster, and the stock S10 rear end is way too deep for the TH350 3 speed transmission. It really needs an overdrive transmssion, or higher gears in the back. I still need to get the truck to the muffler shop to have the exhaust system built, but I was able to drive it home, where I parked it and do not want to see it for a while !

So, I learned a very expensive and exhausting lesson on this project. Looking back, for what I wanted to use the truck for (just junkyard runs and to haul stuff occasionally,) I should have rebuilt the stock 4 cylinder motor and I would have had air conditioning to boot.

But, after I lick my wounds for a while, I will probably get the exhaust done, maybe put in a rear axle with higher gears, and get to use it more. But for now, I do not want to even look at the darn thing !

Just thought I would pass this along for anyone else thinking about the same project.
 

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I put my truck to work. Who says a 6' bed can't haul 12' long 4x4's! My wife is making a garden and we need to keep the deer out so we picked up a gate and some 4x4's for the gate and corner posts.
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The last thing I needed done on my S10 was to take it to a muffler shop and have the exhaust system built. Since I am not looking for this to be a high performance build, I had some stainless steel bullet mufflers left over from my 27 Ford hot rod and I took those with me to the guy who was doing the work.

He ran the exhaust to the passenger side, just like most S10's are done, and since I didn't want tail pipes going all the way to the rear bumper he simply ran them back to in front of the right rear tire and both of them exit there.

What a difference it made ! The truck is now much quieter and I drove home at 60-70 mph and the noise level is much nicer. The engine is still too radical for this just being a truck that I only want to drive occasionally, but at red lights people keep looking over wondering why this little S10 idles like a fuel dragster ! The TH350 is also a little stiff, with the shift kit installed, and it chirps the rear tires when it shifts from first to second if I push it a little.

But it is finally drivable, and today I am going to change out the break in oil, flush the radiator and add antifreeze, and reset the timing and adjust the carburetor. So, it looks like this little tale might finally be ending and now I won't have to bother my two sons for a truck when I need to haul something.
 

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I went ahead and did the 145 Amp alternator swap since the original style had my lights flickering at all speeds.
2003 Tahoe 4.8/5.3 D44 style 145 Amp.
The original S10 4.3 belt was a little short. The belt I ended up with is a 2003 ASTRO Van serpentine belt with AC #5060960
 

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Replaced the steering box 1.5 weeks ago. Went for an alignment...bad center link. Replaced that today and double checked the wheel bearings and cleaned up the calipers. Also ordered a set of SS specific bump stops for the front. Time to try the alignment again.

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Paid my tags for my Sonoma for the year and had it's every 2 years smog check pass was flying colors. I was surprised I haven't drove it since late November of last year it's just been sitting on a trickle charger since then.
 

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Yesterday I changed my alternator to the 145 Amp model. I only took it on a short test drive then called it a successful day.
Today I get in and notice how smooth it drives and idles whereas before a small shake/vibration was heavily noticeable at speeds of 35-45 mph then it would go away after that speed, there was a noticeable change with throttle response trying to ease on the pedal where it would feel as if the TPS had a dead spot where it did not read the command of more acceleration. It no longer does all that! My guess is the previous 105 Amp alternator had enough of an issue(rectifier) to be noticeable at all speeds but still generated enough current to keep it running enough........that's all that makes sense since I have NEVER encountered this situation before. I bet the PCM, distributor and spark was having issues due to inconsistent voltage.
Main thing is it runs great now, no more flashing lights, Amp gauge no longer moves back and fourth. Time for another road trip to log the fuel mileage 18 gallons bone dry.
 
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Yesterday I changed my alternator to the 145 Amp model. I only took it on a short test drive then called it a successful day.
Today I get in and notice how smooth it drives and idles whereas before a small shake/vibration was heavily noticeable at speeds of 35-45 mph then it would go away after that speed, there was a noticeable change with throttle response trying to ease on the pedal where it would feel as if the TPS had a dead spot where it did not read the command of more acceleration. It no longer does all that! My guess is the previous 105 Amp alternator had enough of an issue(rectifier) to be noticeable at all speeds but still generated enough current to keep it running enough........that's all that makes sense since I have NEVER encountered this situation before. I bet the PCM, distributor and spark was having issues due to inconsistent voltage.
Main thing is it runs great now, no more flashing lights, Amp gauge no longer moves back and fourth. Time for another road trip to log the fuel mileage 18 gallons bone dry.
What's funny about the GM alternators the smaller 105 amp has a 10 mm stud and the AD244 145 amp has a 6 mm stud. That doesn't make a whole lot of sense you would think the bigger alternator should have the bigger stud but it does not. That is GM for you.
 

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Yesterday I changed my alternator to the 145 Amp model. I only took it on a short test drive then called it a successful day.
Today I get in and notice how smooth it drives and idles whereas before a small shake/vibration was heavily noticeable at speeds of 35-45 mph then it would go away after that speed, there was a noticeable change with throttle response trying to ease on the pedal where it would feel as if the TPS had a dead spot where it did not read the command of more acceleration. It no longer does all that! My guess is the previous 105 Amp alternator had enough of an issue(rectifier) to be noticeable at all speeds but still generated enough current to keep it running enough........that's all that makes sense since I have NEVER encountered this situation before. I bet the PCM, distributor and spark was having issues due to inconsistent voltage.
Main thing is it runs great now, no more flashing lights, Amp gauge no longer moves back and fourth. Time for another road trip to log the fuel mileage 18 gallons bone dry.
Just out of curiosity, have you already done the big 3 modification to your truck? I noticed a similar response (smoothness) from my truck when I changed out the key electrical cables on it. My mpg's also improved slightly.
 

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Just out of curiosity, have you already done the big 3 modification to your truck? I noticed a similar response (smoothness) from my truck when I changed out the key electrical cables on it. My mpg's also improved slightly.
Quite a few months back I put another alternator on from my old blazer along with the big 3 modification. The flickering stopped for a month then began again. Now it runs better than ever, I still have the big 3 in place.
 
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In the middle of troubleshooting my idle issue with my 2.5L. When engine is cold it's common that the truck will die a couple of times before it'll idle. When it's warm enough to idle the RPMs still go up and down. Next steps for me is checking out the Pick up Coil, Ignition Control Module and the ignition coil. I've checked vacuum and I'm not finding any leaks so I THINK I'm on the right path.
 

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It was yesterday, but pickup up a power driver seat outta a 03 two door blazer for $25! It's not leather, but all power features work perfectly! No power lumbar or heated seat, but it was the only one that wasn't either covered in mold or frame covered in rust. Even better, the plastic trim isn't all broken up and is graphite in color so it will match my interior! I did have to drill the T50, didn't break the bit, but my ratchet gave up the ghost, gotta love lifetime warranties! I did clean up the light rust on the driver side front/rear mounts, painted with rust converter and gloss black rattle can. Plan on going full leather from one (one of two in the local area...) of the local upholstery shops. Leaning towards Mars of Minot....anyone deal with them?(I know it's a long shot, anyone being/been in the Minot, ND area) I may swing back to the scrap yard to pull the seat heater from one of the others...try to find one that works as it does get a little cold up here! I can always mod the plastic to hold the switch.
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Last week, finished up head gasket replacement on my rusty, 2002 S10 2.2L, primary daily driver. The wisdom of that repair, especially given I installed new, OEM lifters and a new head, is extremely questionable considering the condition of the body.

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Yesterday, started pulling the front sheet metal off my much less rusty, 1996 Sonoma 2.2L, next daily driver. Noticed the interior, front, right vertical corner of cab was rusting while reassembling the interior last year. No way to definitively diagnose without pulling the sheet metal, but I strongly suspect it is exterior seam sealer failure. That sealer I can see below the windshield is considerably deteriorated. If I can generate some ambition, I will try to pull more parts tonight.
 

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Look what I found in my storage. A brand new set of Belltech drop spindles for S10 or Sonoma Blazer or Jimmy two-wheel drive. Forgot I even had these. I will be putting them in the for sale section if anybody's interested.
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Undercoating complete of the S10 bed. Tonight I’ll flip it over and get started on bodywork. I’ll take before, during, after pics. She’s straight but has a small amount of rust above each wheel well that I need to cut out and patch. Not a big deal but a time sucker when you’re trying to make her presentable 🙂

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Well, I did this about a couple of weeks ago. Took a bunch of scrap metal to the recycling center in the bed of my s10. The gross weight was 1800 pounds. Definitely went past max payload, but she pulled it like a champ. Gonna replace the ball joints this weekend though and probably the leaf springs as they were straightened out pretty good from all that weight in the back.
I'll update with a picture of how slammed she was when I was halfway done loading her.
 

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Lube/Oil/Filter, ran an engine flush before changing the oil. Don't know if it helped however the new oil (Amsoil 5w30) is so clear now that it's hard to read the dipstick! Also changed the tranny filter, (fyi, deep pan takes about 6qts after dropping pan, lovin the pan with a drain I installed last time!!!), flushed the brake/power steering fluids and drained/filled the diff. Meet with Tony's Resto & Custom this Wednesday to see about the seat refurb....hope he has time to do em and is reasonably priced!
 

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I thought I would do a sort of final report on how my S10/V8 swap is doing. After getting the exhaust done I started driving the truck a little but was finding oil spots under the engine when I parked it, and sometimes I got some oil smoke coming out from under the car. It seemed to be coming from the front timing cover, so, because the pan can not be dropped in the truck, I had to pull the motor out again .

So, I pulled it out put it on an engine stand, and flipped it over and put a brand new (non chrome this time) timing cover on it and a brand new FelPro blue rubber pan gasket. I REALLY took my time this time to make sure I did it right and used enough Permatex sealant to really seal all the nooks and crannies well.

I put the motor back in and drove it home from my shop, and there was another puddle underneath the front of the car AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!! So, I went on line to research it and what I found blew my mind. When I assembled the engine I forgot to put one short little 3/8 bolt into the little hole that is right in front of the fuel pump area on the passenger side. When the engine was idling there was no leak from that hole, but when the rpms were up going down the road enough oil splashed into that cavity to come out of the threaded hole. After I put a bolt in there with some Permatex on it, no more leak.

I am posting my stupidity to maybe help someone else who might encounter the same issue. As I have said previously, I can build a car from the ground up, but I am a back yard mechanic when it comes to fixing engines and stuff. Now I have learned a very expensive and time consuming lesson !!!!!!

I also pulled off the Holley 750 double pumper and put on a 600 Edelbrock because the Holley was just way to much for the street driving I am going. I originally had this motor to use in a dragster, but the Edelbrock idles nicer and the plugs are burning nice and clean. With the price of gas now the last thing I want is a gas guzzler.
 
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