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Old Fart
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Some tires are getting hard to find. I was looking at winter tires for my S4 about a month ago on Discount's site and it was showing every brand out of stock.
 

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Are you talking factory ZQ8 Bilsteins? They've been discontinued from what I've seen. I found one front on eBay, but nothing else in the searching I did a couple days ago. Might be worth calling up Bilstein to see if they might be able to reproduce them (even though it was a factory only part) or make you a custom shock with the same valving. It was a great shock for the ZQ8 suspension.
 

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Are you talking factory ZQ8 Bilsteins? They've been discontinued from what I've seen. I found one front on eBay, but nothing else in the searching I did a couple days ago. Might be worth calling up Bilstein to see if they might be able to reproduce them (even though it was a factory only part) or make you a custom shock with the same valving. It was a great shock for the ZQ8 suspension.
Actually, I am referencing the 4600 series designed for the S10. I had trouble finding the ZQ8 shocks back in 2012, so I bought a set of the 4600 and they've done well for me. They a firmer ride, but the truck handles curves nicely. It can get a bit rough on bad roads, but I tend to like performance over comfort as long as it's not too harsh.

I have 96K on this set and though they don't bounce bad they seem a little unsettled, like they're a bit more jittery with bumps. Also, though I've never really had bad wheel hop, the last year or so it has been more noticeable. I figured if I'm needing to get the truck aligned and the shocks are near the end of their use, I should be proactive and replace them.

So far I've only been able to find the rears in stock at Summit. The fronts say special order, arriving 2-14-22, but when I called they couldn't verify for me if that meant they were expecting new stock on 2-14 or if I ordered them they would be in on the 14th, or if that was just a generic future date and they were waiting on Bilstein and really didn't know when they would be back in stock. I'll wait until the 14th and if Summit still doesn't have an answer I may give Bilstein a call. That's a good idea, thanks!
 

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Premium Member
1999 ZR2 Bald Eagle..Visually Impaired
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636 Posts
I stared at damage on my rig, and then made frames for a 3 pc "Persistance of memory" canvas prints. Then I went outside and made a damage video...got depressed and ate muscle relaxers + cookies...here's the video lol

 

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Old Fart
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I stared at damage on my rig, and then made frames for a 3 pc "Persistance of memory" canvas prints. Then I went outside and made a damage video...got depressed and ate muscle relaxers + cookies...here's the video lol

I would take it to a frame shop that does big trucks and have them evaluate it and tell you the best way to repair it. If you can find a donor I would swap the entire frame rather than try to weld a section on. Judging from how the cab is tweaked I think the frame damage runs a lot farther forward than you think.
 
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1999 ZR2 Bald Eagle..Visually Impaired
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I would take it to a frame shop that does big trucks and have them evaluate it and tell you the best way to repair it. If you can find a donor I would swap the entire frame rather than try to weld a section on. Judging from how the cab is tweaked I think the frame damage runs a lot farther forward than you think.
I was thinking try to find an exploded z, swap my 47k motor and 200mile trans, interior, be done with it
Edit, yeah long day, bit dumber than normal, yes my cab is good too, so YES, what you said: find roller
 

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Old Fart
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I was thinking try to find an exploded z, swap my 47k motor and 200mile trans, interior, be done with it
Edit, yeah long day, bit dumber than normal, yes my cab is good too, so YES, what you said: find roller
That would work as well.(y)
 
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I have been hitting hard on my S10/ 350 swap, and am getting close to the finish line. The interior is done, the wiring is 95% done, and the Corvette radiator and Intrepid fans are installed and mounted. I had to shift the engine back about 3/4 of an inch to give my water pump pulley some clearance, but moving it back did the trick. I also went to the wrecking yard and got power steering brackets from a 1985 Chevy El Camino, then ordered a new El Camino power steering pump and hoses from Rock Auto. The hoses fit perfectly and screwed right into my stock S10 steering box.

Now I just have to wrap up the wiring, finish putting the fender liner in on the passenger side, getting my driveshaft lengthened 1 and 3/4 inches, and build the exhaust system, and I will be pretty much done. Here are some pictures from tonight:
Grille Automotive lighting Hood Car Vehicle
Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Car
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Vehicle Automotive fuel system
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive fuel system Automotive tire
Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Automotive design
Car Gear shift Vehicle Automotive tire Steering wheel
Speedometer Vehicle Car Tachometer Gauge
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior
 

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I decided to tackle the rear axle leak at the pinion on my S10 this weekend. I originally noticed it leaking back in November, but I've had too much going on to fix it until now, plus I had another vehicle I could drive in the meantime. Also, I was a bit hesitant because I thought I was possibly needing to rebuild the axle; I have experience (my Dad and I despite neither of us being mechanics successfully changed the ring and pinion on my old S10 from 3.08 to 3.42 about 20 years ago), but I really didn't want to take on that big of a project right now. It turns out the seal was actually pretty easy to change, and apparently the leak was coming from the sealant behind the washer breaking down over time, not the pinion seal. I currently have 266,000 miles on the truck, so I changed the seal anyways.

Plant Automotive tire Automotive lighting Alloy wheel Motor vehicle

Pinion nut removed after scribing the parts for reassembly.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part Rim

Notice how the housing is dry at the pinion seal.

Automotive tire Camera lens Automotive lighting Wood Rim

Back side of washer.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber

Back side of the yoke is mostly dry.

Automotive tire Fluid Wood Motor vehicle Water

Front side of the yoke. I'm not sure what the white sealant is, but it was very brittle. I used Permatex black RTV on the ends of the female splines when I reassembled it.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bumper Wood Motor vehicle

Pinion nut reinstalled and tightened an extra 1/16" past the original mark.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle Automotive exterior

Everything reassembled. I also checked the cap on the end of the vent line to make sure it was not blocked.

Jaw Sculpture Snout Art Working animal

When I finished, I wiped down most of the axle surface to get rid of the oil. Unfortunately this spot that looks like a weld appears to be seeping oil. This was a few hours after I had cleaned it and took it for a drive. Ah, the joys of an old vehicle: fix one problem to find the next issue.
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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For the 1st time since Jan 2020 the truck is back in one piece. I put the new leds ion the cluster and FINALLY put all of the under dash panels back in. Some of them will have to come back out when I get the led lights in the harness for the HVAC.
 

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Old Fart
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4,655 Posts
I decided to tackle the rear axle leak at the pinion on my S10 this weekend. I originally noticed it leaking back in November, but I've had too much going on to fix it until now, plus I had another vehicle I could drive in the meantime. Also, I was a bit hesitant because I thought I was possibly needing to rebuild the axle; I have experience (my Dad and I despite neither of us being mechanics successfully changed the ring and pinion on my old S10 from 3.08 to 3.42 about 20 years ago), but I really didn't want to take on that big of a project right now. It turns out the seal was actually pretty easy to change, and apparently the leak was coming from the sealant behind the washer breaking down over time, not the pinion seal. I currently have 266,000 miles on the truck, so I changed the seal anyways.

View attachment 358518
Pinion nut removed after scribing the parts for reassembly.

View attachment 358519
Notice how the housing is dry at the pinion seal.

View attachment 358520
Back side of washer.

View attachment 358521
Back side of the yoke is mostly dry.

View attachment 358522
Front side of the yoke. I'm not sure what the white sealant is, but it was very brittle. I used Permatex black RTV on the ends of the female splines when I reassembled it.

View attachment 358523
Pinion nut reinstalled and tightened an extra 1/16" past the original mark.

View attachment 358524
Everything reassembled. I also checked the cap on the end of the vent line to make sure it was not blocked.

View attachment 358526
When I finished, I wiped down most of the axle surface to get rid of the oil. Unfortunately this spot that looks like a weld appears to be seeping oil. This was a few hours after I had cleaned it and took it for a drive. Ah, the joys of an old vehicle: fix one problem to find the next issue.
:cool:If you were closer I would let you have my stock posi rear axle with 90K on it to fix your leak.
 

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I am finally near the finish line with my S10/355 Chevy swap. It has been a much longer road, and more money, than I ever imagined. I have built cars from the ground up much faster than the 8 or 9 months I have been working on this thing.

But, this week I got my driveshaft back from the driveline shop, and it fit perfectly. They lengthen it 2 and 3/4 inches because I moved my engine back as far as I could for radiator clearance. I got the fuel tank pulled out and I modified the stock fuel pump assembly to just become a fuel pickup for my external electric fuel pump that I will mount on the frame rail under the car.

In case anyone else does the same thing, let me tell you what I found out that made it work. First of all, my 2004 plastic tank has a bunch of emissions stuff mounted on top of the tank, and I will not need those, so I pulled all the hoses off and put rubber caps over all of the unused hose nipples. Then I pulled out the large fuel pump assembly and completely gutted it so it will only be a pickup point now, nothing more.

After gutting it (removing the pump, hoses, etc, the only thing I left was the two wires that go to the fuel gauge sender, and I cut off the rest of the wiring since it will not be needed. Then, I went to NAPA and bought a special 3/8 diameter hose they sell ($35.00 !!!!!!!!!) that is submersible and totally fuel resistant, so it can go into the tank and act as a fuel pickup point.

I put that 3/8 hose onto the largest of the 3 barbs and put a brass fitting on the other end to weigh it down and keep it submerged so I will always have fuel supplied to it. Then, I took the second largest barb and put some 3/8 fuel hose on it and wired tied it to the fuel fill hose and that hose will act as an air vent so that when fuel is used up air can come in and replace it. Then I blocked off the one remaining barb with another rubber cap and clamp.

After that I reinstalled the tank (oh, by the way, the bed does NOT have to be raised to get these tanks out. I simply removed the 4 bolts that go through the frame rail into the front lower tank bracket, removed the back mounting strap, then I slid the tank toward the middle of the truck, and dropped it down. My driveshaft was still out, so I had plenty of room to drop the tank out)

Now, when my Carter electric pump, filter, and 25 feet of 3/8 fuel hose comes Tuesday from Summit Racing, I can get that all installed and hopefully fire this thing up for the very first time.

Sorry I took no pictures of this process, but it is pretty straightforward and I hope my explanation of how I did it was helpful to someone else doing the same thing.
 

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Compliance!
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My stock radio had several bulbs burnt out so I soldered some LEDs on the board. That led to the cluster and HVAC getting LEDs as well. Working on the headlight switch and pass airbag switch before the new bezel goes on. The camera on my phone is garbage, there are no hotspots, just a lot of glare in the pics.



 

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Actually, I am referencing the 4600 series designed for the S10. I had trouble finding the ZQ8 shocks back in 2012, so I bought a set of the 4600 and they've done well for me. They a firmer ride, but the truck handles curves nicely. It can get a bit rough on bad roads, but I tend to like performance over comfort as long as it's not too harsh.

I have 96K on this set and though they don't bounce bad they seem a little unsettled, like they're a bit more jittery with bumps. Also, though I've never really had bad wheel hop, the last year or so it has been more noticeable. I figured if I'm needing to get the truck aligned and the shocks are near the end of their use, I should be proactive and replace them.

So far I've only been able to find the rears in stock at Summit. The fronts say special order, arriving 2-14-22, but when I called they couldn't verify for me if that meant they were expecting new stock on 2-14 or if I ordered them they would be in on the 14th, or if that was just a generic future date and they were waiting on Bilstein and really didn't know when they would be back in stock. I'll wait until the 14th and if Summit still doesn't have an answer I may give Bilstein a call. That's a good idea, thanks!
If you call them up report back how it goes!
I ended up not calling Bilstein. The Bilstein shocks (24-187428) I was needing showed to be in stock at Summit last week so I ordered a pair along with a set of the rear shocks (24-016810). They arrived last night, so hopefully I can find time to install them in the next couple of weeks. FYI, these are the 4600 series shocks designed for the S10, but not the ZQ8 specific shocks. I've liked them on my ZQ8 truck, and honestly it has been so long since my original shocks wore out that it's hard for me to compare them unless I drove them back to back. But I believe these are a bit stiffer.
Writing implement Cigarette Office supplies Font Paint
 

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Also, I used my truck to haul an old test stand home from work last night. I plan to cut the pipe below the hammer union and turn it into a vice table. It doesn't look like a lot, but the base plate is 1" thick and 36" diameter and overall it weighs about 450 lbs.

Sky Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Tire
 

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Yesterday was the big day.........I was firing up my 350 for the first time in the 10 or so years it has been sitting on an engine stand since I built it. I filled the crankcase with Royal Purple break in oil, and filled the radiator with just water and will change to antifreeze once I was sure everything was ok. Well, everything was NOT ok !!!

First of all, my brand new aluminum radiator has a pin hole in one tube that was squirting out water. But I just went ahead and fired it up, and it started immediately, but there was no oil pressure on the gauge. So, we removed the sender and plugged in a test gauge and still zero oil pressure.

I pulled out the distributor to see if the end was hooking up with the oil pump drive shaft, and it was, so I put a preluber on the shaft with an electric drill and oil immediately shot out of the sender hole. So I had oil pressure. However, when we reinstalled the distributor, still no oil pressure. We pulled out the one Mallory distributor and put in another one, still no oil pressure. I even pulled the intake off to look inside, and everything looked great, and I had it for the day so I went home.

Last night, when my son got home he said "let's go to the shop and see what is what". When we got there we did the same things we had been doing, Still no oil pressure. We measured the distributor shaft length and everything was fine. Finally, in desperation, we put the preluber back on the shaft and ran it for a very long time. At the end, a whole bunch of air shot out of the open line that we had put on to bleed the system and then we got a really nice stream of just oil out. I reinstalled the distributor and cranked the engine, and we finally had good oil pressure !!!!!!!

So, I am posting this for anyone who might run into the same problem. I had thought I ran the preluber long enough to get oil everywhere in the engine, but evidently there was some air blockage holding it back. I have prelubed engines before, with zero problems, but now I have learned to run the preluber for a very long time, not just until some oil starts coming out of the rocker arms.

Now I can reinstall my intake ( with new gaskets) and put everything back on. I have contacted the people I bought the Corvette aluminum radiator from and they want pictures, so I will do that today and hopefully get the new radiator soon.
 

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Replaced the Bilstein 4600 shocks with 96,000 miles with new ones. The ride is improved, less jarring. Honestly, the rears are still in decent shape so I'll set them aside. They compressed and rebounded a little worse than the new ones. The fronts were pretty worn and the passenger side was leaking; they noticeably compressed easier and rebound slower.
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire

My son helped me with the fronts. Definitely a fun moment for me!

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Vehicle

Shocks completed. Next thing on the list is getting an alignment. I also need to replace the adhesive for the weather stripping on the door seals.

I got a quote for fixing the driver door hinge (a strong wind ripped it out of my hands a few years ago, pulling the hinge away from the body). As soon as they get an opening I'll drop my truck off. They'll also replace the door pins and bushings while they're working on the door. After that I'll start planning for stripping out the interior for the NVH improvements.
 
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