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Discussion Starter #1
yes, actually cutting through the bed and cab so i can put one hell of a descructive system in that bad boy. just wondering because that is what i plan on doing once i get my s-10.

do i need to brace anything? any little tricks i should know other then actually cutting the metal out and slapping in some rubber grommets?

just wanna know the do's and don'ts

thanks in advance
 

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I saw an S10 this past summer at a Sound Off contest. I never did get a chance to talk to the owner but he had one hell off a beautiful install.

I don't know if he did it himself or if it was done by a custom shop. There were eight 12" subs in the box with all the amps and caps under a hard tonneau cover. What was really interesting is, there was a rubber tunnel between the cab and box.

Who ever did the work used rubber channel molding that's used for flat glass around the edges of the cab and box. Some how they managed to get what looked like neoprene in the glass groove forming a flexible tunnel between the cab and box. It looked great with the oval shaped hole behind the seats. The SPL was something to be felt and heard.
 

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I got a friend with a vented 8 Solo Baric L-7 in his cab and is hitting 148 DB's. Why do a port if you don't have to?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Zac said:
I saw an S10 this past summer at a Sound Off contest. I never did get a chance to talk to the owner but he had one hell off a beautiful install.

I don't know if he did it himself or if it was done by a custom shop. There were eight 12" subs in the box with all the amps and caps under a hard tonneau cover. What was really interesting is, there was a rubber tunnel between the cab and box.

Who ever did the work used rubber channel molding that's used for flat glass around the edges of the cab and box. Some how they managed to get what looked like neoprene in the glass groove forming a flexible tunnel between the cab and box. It looked great with the oval shaped hole behind the seats. The SPL was something to be felt and heard.
yeah, thats pretty much what i plan on doing.
the big cut-through would be big enough just for the face of the box. i can't keep it in a regular or ext. cab because of the shere volume of the box. and its gonna be a big old ported box (10+ cubic feet)with a pair of either 12s or 15s with about 2000 watts a piece. the enclosure is basically gonna be in the bed along with the amp rack and batteries.
 

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xtreme nutcase
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just curious, what do they usually use to seal the hole from the cab to the box? ive seen a few installs with a corrugated rubber, where do you get this stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
they use some kind of rubber grommet accordian boot type of thing. it looks like the part of the accordian that compresses together...i have seen it before but my description skills are not up to par. you can pick it up at stores that sell truck caps or i'm sure you can make it yourself
 

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I GOT BLING-BLING
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Do you realize that if you do that set-up then the subs will be close to $800 each, anf the power to push them will be anywhere from $2000 to $4500, not to mention all of the custom work($$$$$$$$+time)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
audio is my bag baby

dantheman said:
Do you realize that if you do that set-up then the subs will be close to $800 each, anf the power to push them will be anywhere from $2000 to $4500, not to mention all of the custom work($$$$$$$$+time)


subs:
$800 each? naw.....i would like some DD9515s which are about 400-500 each factory direct(depending on whether or not they are on sale) arguably the best sub out

amps:
$2000 - $4500? naw......earthqauke phd2 - about $450 new each. 2000x1 at 2 ohms

labor + time? only thing i need is the cut through itself and if its simple enough i have friends with big power tools....lol

lol.....we you talk about engines, suspension etc....then i might stay out of the conversation but when it comes to audio then you will not get me to shut up. car audio is my bag baby....yeaaaah

trust me, i got the audio part covered
:evilg: :evilg: :evilg: :evilg: :evilg: :evilg: :evilg: :evilg: :evilg:
 

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subs:
$800 each? naw.....i would like some DD9515s which are about 400-500 each factory direct(depending on whether or not they are on sale) arguably the best sub out

amps:
$2000 - $4500? naw......earthqauke phd2 - about $450 new each. 2000x1 at 2 ohms

labor + time? only thing i need is the cut through itself and if its simple enough i have friends with big power tools....lol

Ya you're right. If you know how to install the components yourself, you can save a pile of money. If you or a friend has any carpentry skills, there's nothing to making custom sub boxes. Cutting a hole between the cab and box wouldn't be that hard to do yourself either. A jigsaw if all else fails would work but the best tool for the job would be a nibbler. I worked in a glass shop for a few years where we used a nibbler to cut holes in the roof of cars for sunroofs. It made short work of cutting holes in sheet metal. All you would have to do is find the stuff to make the tunnel between the cab and box.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the info

thanks zac, your info is much appreciated. even if i get lazy and decide to have someone do the sub box for me it will run me maybe 400 at most. but i will probably try to do it myself being the cheap arse i am. it will also be beneficial to build up my box building skills for future use.


on my to do list:
find friend with a nibbler
 

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I GOT BLING-BLING
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OK, let me ask you this, would you consider any of the following



-15" Rockford Fosgate POWER HX2's(rated 1000rms--hold 1500 easy)

-15" Kicker L7's(800RMS--hold 1200)

-13.5" JL W7s (hold 1000+
 

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Discussion Starter #13
nice choice of subs

dantheman said:
OK, let me ask you this, would you consider any of the following



-15" Rockford Fosgate POWER HX2's(rated 1000rms--hold 1500 easy)

-15" Kicker L7's(800RMS--hold 1200)

-13.5" JL W7s (hold 1000+

very good selection dantheman

the rockford is an awesome sub no doubt and can be had for about 300 shipped

the kicker 15L7 is also a powerhouse and has proven itself, also can be had for about 250 plus shipping

the 13.5 w7 just came out but many good things are being said about them. the thing i do not like is the fact that they are WAY too overpriced. maybe after some time when they have proven themselves then the price will be justified. as of right now though i believe you can do much better with the money you would spend on just 1 w7.

i would consider ALL of them if the price is right. with this setup i would like to stay away from the common brands like kicker, rockford, jl audio, alpine, kenwood etc.. just me
i just think by spending a LITTLE more i can get better.

have you ever heard of TREO, SHOCKER AUDIO, DIGITAL DESIGNS, BEYOND AUDIO??? i like these brands because they are not too well known unless you are a competitor or a hardcore basshead. and these have proven to be upper level subs and then some
 

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I'm Lost
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Orion HCCA's. thats all i got to say. i know people with 1 10" hittin mid 140's (remember 1 10")with about 800-1000 watts. just my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #15
alowerlevel said:
Orion HCCA's. thats all i got to say. i know people with 1 10" hittin mid 140's (remember 1 10")with about 800-1000 watts. just my 2 cents
1 15 in an eclipse have done 150+ dbs with about 1000+ watts in numerous setups. you can get "stock b hcca's" on ebay for ridiculously low
 

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I H8 BUMPS!!
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my cut through is 6" tall x 24" wide. I used a swazall to cut the cab and bed wall. Only took 20 minutes to cut. Don't waste your money on the rubber boots. They rip ALL the time. I used 3'4" rubber sheets. It's the same stuff people line thier tool drawers with. You know, the little cut out deals they make. I suck at describing things! I used a propane torch to melt the edges together. It is 100% air tight and water tight.

The upper part of the cab wall is double layered. If you opt to cut that high up, use some expandable foam to fill in the space between the two sheets of sheetmetal. If you don't it will rattle like a *****.

I am pushin 168db's with my setup now. Still not loud enough.:D I have 4 DB+ 12's. They are pushed by two 1000W sony explodes. My box is between the cab wall and the wheel wells.

Oh well, any questions just holla!:thumbup:
 

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rmducati said:
I will post pics after I carpet the cab wall. Looks nasty right now.
 

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xtreme nutcase
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if you dont mind, i would like to see construction pics. i'm just curious about how you did the rubber part. seems like a good idea.
 

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Here is a pic of the rubber part of the cut through. Hard to see. (covered in primer dust)
 
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